It would be wrong to leave a clay or dirt floor in the garage because earth foundation not particularly durable and, as a result of constant loads and impacts, will sag and deform over time. In addition, the soil easily absorbs various toxic substances and gasoline, so get rid of unpleasant odor It won't work in boxing. Another thing is the wooden floor in the garage; this hard-wearing, attractive and durable covering will serve you for many years. Unlike concrete floors, wood flooring retains heat better in the room, does not generate dust and looks more attractive.

Requirements for garage covering

Before you make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, you need to study the requirements for such a coating:

1. Wood surface must be resistant to mechanical damage, so it is better to choose boards made of hard wood.
2. The flooring must be well resistant to aggressive chemicals. To do this, the wooden floor is treated with special impregnations and also coated with protective compounds.
3. The plank floor must be fireproof. To protect against fire, wood must be impregnated with fire retardants.
4. The surface must be moisture resistant. For this purpose, the boards can be coated with oil or varnish, but it is worth remembering that when moving on the floor, your feet should not slip.

Important! When choosing a material and method of floor installation, it is important to give preference to inexpensive and reliable structures, take into account the ease of installation and durability.

How to choose wood for garage flooring?

Before you make a garage floor from planks, you need to choose the right wood for this room. Laying walnut and mahogany boards under conditions of increased loads, humidity and exposure to aggressive substances is impractical.

Give preference to coniferous species, as they have high wear resistance and strength. It is best to make a garage floor from oak. Due to its high strength and hardness, this breed will last for decades.

When choosing wood, consider the following rules:

• to avoid deformation of the coating, use only well-dried wood for flooring in the garage (overdried or damp boards are not suitable);
• to construct a frame from logs, choose only whole bars without cracks or other defects;
• After calculating the amount of wood, always take a 15 percent reserve.

How to treat wood before laying?

In order to protect the wooden floor in a garage on the ground from putrefactive processes and damage by insects, all wood elements are treated with antiseptics. Products must be primed before installation. The primer is applied in several layers. All products are thoroughly dried after applying the impregnation.

Sometimes antiseptics are applied only to the underside of the board. Sodium fluoride and borate-based mixtures are suitable for these purposes. White, odorless powder is diluted in water. After preparation and application, the composition does not change the color of the material, does not reduce its strength and protects metal structural elements from corrosion.

Advice! To protect against moisture, the bars are coated with water-repellent, deep-penetrating solvent-based impregnations. They create a protective thick film. Oil analogues are allowed to be used only for processing absolutely dry wood.

The floor in the garage made of boards must be protected from fire. For this purpose, the wood is treated with fire retardants. These are special substances that increase the fire resistance of the material. Fire retardants are applied to joists and boards before they are laid. It is better to use compounds based on copper hydroxide.

Step-by-step installation technology

If you are making a wooden garage floor with your own hands, then best option- device wooden structure by lags. This way the load will be evenly distributed over the entire flooring and transferred to the ground. In addition, if insulation is placed between the joists, the room can be additionally protected from the cold. Constructions on logs allow you to hide foundation defects. Various utilities are laid in the space under the floor.

Note! Floors with joists are not suitable for low garages, since this design raises the floor level by 6-10 cm. In this case, a wooden floor in the garage is made over a concrete base.

Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not require special preparation, so work on laying the plank floor can begin at any time.
In doing so, the following recommendations are adhered to:

• for laying use boards with a moisture content of no more than 10%;
• first arrange a frame of 50x50 millimeter bars, which are installed in increments of 400-500 mm;
• Beacon bars are laid first in 2 m increments;
• for fixation to the concrete base, dowels are used, which are attached in increments of 500 mm;
• then intermediate bars are laid and also secured to the base with dowels;
• then proceed to the installation of the flooring;
• The boards are laid out perpendicular to the frame bars and secured to them using nails or self-tapping screws.

If concrete base If the flooring is sufficiently smooth and does not have serious defects, then the flooring is made of boards without using a frame made of bars. Thickened floor boards are suitable for installation. Before use, they are impregnated with drying oil to protect them from moisture and painted. After drying, proceed to installation of the plank floor. The boards are laid along the entire length of the room and secured to the concrete base using nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying a wooden floor on the ground

It is somewhat more difficult to install a wooden floor on a dirt base. First, the base is carefully prepared, and then the floor is laid in several stages:

1. The surface of the soil in the garage is leveled with a hoe or rake.
2. Next perform sand and gravel backfill. In this case, first a layer of sand 15 cm high is poured, followed by a layer of expanded clay or gravel of the same height. If desired, the thickness of the gravel layer can be reduced to 10 centimeters.
3. Then the sand and gravel cushion is spilled with water and compacted well. It is best to use an electric tamper (hand roller, vibrating plate or hand tamper) for this purpose.
4. Laying it down waterproofing material over the entire surface and place it on the walls to a height of 10 cm. The joints of the material are glued together with mastic or tape.
5. Let's start installing the logs. For this, bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm are suitable. First, we install the timber around the perimeter of the room. It will distribute the load from the car and the weight of the entire deck. We fix the lumber at the corners metal corners between themselves. Using a level, check the horizontal position of the bars. If necessary, we place scraps of boards or plywood under the elements.
6. We also install logs with a cross section of 100x100 mm facing the entrance to the garage. The step between them is no more than half a meter. To fix them to the lighthouse beam around the perimeter of the room, we use metal L-shaped products or self-tapping screws.
7. We pour expanded clay or sand into the resulting voids between the joists to insulate the floor of the room.
8. After this, we begin laying the floorboards. They are placed across the joists and attached to them using self-tapping screws at two points. To ensure that the floorboards fit snugly against the joists, holes are drilled in them for fasteners. To do this, use a drill whose diameter is 1 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Advice! Before laying, strips of roofing felt are attached to the edges of each board using a stapler to better insulate the room and reduce cracks.

When installing a wooden floor on the ground, you can use brick or concrete pillars. This method is suitable for garages in which the dirt floor is located significantly below ground level. Thanks to the construction of the columns, they do without a sand-gravel layer and waterproofing. The distance between the rows of columns is 800 mm, and the pitch of the columns in one row is 300 mm.

Attention! To prevent the floor in the garage from sagging under the weight of the car, boards with a thickness of at least 5-6 cm are taken to construct it. The floorboards must be covered with drying oil and painted.

How to cover the surface of the wood after installation?

After assembling the structure, the question arises, how to cover the wooden floor in the garage? Leave boards without finishing protective coating it is not worth it, since this way the surface will not be protected from mechanical stress, absorption of fuels and lubricants and moisture.

The following compounds are used to protect the floor:

1. After covering the floor with varnish, you will get a durable, transparent and moisture-resistant coating. Wear-resistant polyurethane-based varnishes are ideal for the garage. Such coatings protect boards from premature rotting, do not crack, withstand changes in temperature and humidity, and do not lose their original qualities during operation.
2. Painting the floor with paints increases the aesthetic appeal of the coating and protects it from short-term exposure to moisture. Organic solvent based paints are suitable for boxing.

Some garage owners don't pay much attention to the flooring in their garage, preferring to leave compacted soil or clay. This approach will eliminate the hassle associated with arranging the coating and its repair. However, the earthen floor is not particularly durable, so it is easily deformed under the influence of constant loads. It also absorbs gasoline and other substances, the smell of which is very difficult to remove from the box.

The best option for a garage is a floor made of concrete or wood. Such coatings are characterized by high mechanical strength, wear resistance and attractive appearance. Let's take a closer look at the creation wooden floors, because they look more interesting and have the ability to retain heat, unlike concrete surface, which almost always remains cold.

Before you begin directly arranging the flooring, you need to choose the right wood to create it. It’s definitely worth abandoning the idea of ​​using mahogany and walnut in boxing. Not a bad option - conifers, which are characterized by excellent strength and wear resistance. But it is best to opt for oak, since an oak floor will last much longer than coverings made from other wood.

When choosing a material, you must adhere to a few simple rules.

Before arranging the floor, the wood must be treated with fire retardants - means to increase the fire resistance of the material, as well as substances that prevent the occurrence of putrefactive processes.

Fire retardants increase wood's resistance to fire

Installing a wooden floor in a garage

As a rule, in car boxes floor structures are installed on joists, which allow the load to be evenly distributed over the entire flooring. Using floors on joists, you can hide some foundation defects, as well as communication systems, for example electrical cable. However, this design “raises” the floor by 6-10 cm, so it is not entirely suitable for very low garages. The technology for installing a wooden floor in a garage depends on the existing base, which can be concrete or dirt.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need preliminary preparation, so you can immediately begin installing the wooden floor. Experts give several basic recommendations for this process:

• You can only lay material whose moisture content is no more than 10%;
• installation of logs is carried out with a certain step distance, which often varies from 40 to 50 cm;
• lighthouse logs are installed first on the concrete base, the step between them is approximately 2 m;
• The lags are fixed using dowels, the distance between them is 50 cm;
• intermediate logs are laid according to the same pattern as lighthouse logs. Only after their installation do they begin laying the flooring.
• floor boards are placed perpendicular to the joists and fixed with screws or nails.

In fact, if you have a concrete base, it is not at all necessary to opt for a joist structure. If the subfloor does not have significant differences in height and does not have large-scale defects, then thick floor boards are quite suitable for arranging the covering. Before installation, the blocks are treated with drying oil and painted, after which they are laid on a clean concrete base. Laying is carried out along the entire length of the garage, the boards are fixed with screws or nails.

Even a person without equipment can handle installing a wooden floor on a concrete base in a garage. vocational training, the main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and adhere to technology.

Installing a wooden floor on a subgrade

If the base in the garage is not concrete, but is ordinary soil, then installing a wooden floor becomes somewhat more difficult. complex process, which will require patience and a certain skill. In this case, preparation of the base is necessary, and the installation itself will be carried out in several stages:

1. The ground surface is leveled; for this you can use a rake, as well as an ordinary garden hoe.
2. A sand and gravel cushion is created: first there is a 3-4 cm layer of sand, then a gravel or expanded clay layer of the same thickness. In principle, the second layer can be somewhat thicker, since it is created from materials whose fraction is several times larger than the size of grains of sand.
3. The laid sand and gravel cushion is watered and then compacted well. This can be done with your hands and feet, although it will be much more effective to use a specialized device - an electric rammer (or a vibrating plate, a hand roller, a hand rammer).
4. Logs are installed, which represent wooden blocks holding the entire floor structure. Since the base is not durable and is easily deformed, the logs are installed on pre-laid, even boards, and they must be thick enough so as not to sag during operation.

   Bases for laying logs on the ground (holes for posts, if necessary, are dug before backfilling with crushed stone and sand)

All wood used should be impregnated with special compounds to give the material better moisture resistance, because the fact that it is not resistant to moisture and is susceptible to putrefactive processes is no secret. It is better not to neglect this recommendation!

It is not at all necessary to use only boards as support for the future floor; they can be replaced with pillars made of brick or concrete - they will cope with the task perfectly. Such supports are mounted in rows, the distance between which is 80 cm. The step between the columns themselves should be 30 cm.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Ground logs

Among other subtleties of installing a wooden floor on a soil base in a garage, the following points can be highlighted:

• It is advisable to place the logs perpendicular to the movement of the vehicle, and the floor boards themselves - in the direction of movement. Compliance with this rule will help make the structure more durable, and the floor will become much stronger;
• floor boards should have the same thickness - approximately 50-60 cm. Thinner boards should not be used, otherwise the floor will simply sag under the weight of the car and quickly fail;
• Before installation, the boards must be dried and coated with antifungal agents. Their reverse side, which will be in contact with sand and gravel cushion, must be treated with waterproofing compounds.

After installing a wooden floor covering, many garage owners leave it in its original form, which is very in vain, because wood is a material that needs to be treated with care. The floor should be covered with drying oil and painted, because this is the only way to protect the flooring from oil and gasoline stains, which are almost impossible to remove.

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 1

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Montage, part 2

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 3

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 4

Video - Wooden floor in the garage. Installation, part 5

Chipboard and plywood garage floor

There is another way to create a wooden garage floor, which involves using plywood or chipboard. These materials will serve as the basis for the leveling layer; the thicker it turns out, the more big step logs will be laid. Having finished installing the beacons, you can proceed to installing the logs, securing them to the base with glue or self-tapping screws.

Plywood pieces treated with glue are placed in the fixation areas. Placed on top of the resulting mesh sheet material, which levels the floor. It is attached to the joists with self-tapping screws; there are approximately 9 pieces per sheet. A moisture-proof film is laid on the leveling layer, and then insulation boards. All this is covered with floor boards. Thus, the floor in the garage becomes perfectly flat and very durable.

Deciding to create a wooden floor covering in your car box is not an obstacle to arranging an inspection pit. It can be organized in several stages:

1. A pit of the required depth is created, the bottom of which is laid flat with laid bricks placed perpendicular to the wall surfaces.
2. The walls of the inspection pit are lined with brick, which is placed edgewise.
3. The space between brickwork and filled with soil concrete mixture, this is done as the height of the walls increases.
4. Brick laying is carried out until it reaches the level of the log. Thus, the blocks will partially lie on the masonry. A frame is mounted into the remaining space, into which boards are placed to cover the pit.

   Metal corner laid on the walls of the inspection pit

Setting up an inspection pit in a garage with a wooden floor is quite simple; you just need to put in a little effort and follow the recommendations received.

Video - Inspection pit in a garage with a wooden floor

Features of a wooden floor in a garage

A wooden floor in a garage is an environmentally friendly coating that correct installation and care will please the owner of the box for many years. However, the decision to create a wood floor in the garage cannot be called unequivocally correct, in any case, this is the opinion of some car enthusiasts who are categorically against the use of this material. Accept correct solution An analysis of the pros and cons of this coating will help.

The advantages of choosing wood for garage flooring include the following factors:

• wood is different for a long time service, especially after impregnation protective equipment. Wooden floors can last about 10 years without deforming or collapsing;
• if part of the covering has been damaged, it can be relatively easily replaced without dismantling the entire flooring;
• wood is hygroscopic, that is, it absorbs moisture from the air, which helps maintain optimal humidity levels in the garage, and this has a beneficial effect on the condition of the vehicle;
• wooden floor, unlike concrete covering, retains heat well, so working on it is safer for health. Wood is often chosen as a flooring by people who repair their cars themselves;
• thick in strength batten is not inferior to concrete screeds, so it can be used even in boxes for small trucks;
• on concrete floor dust is generated with wood covering such a problem will not arise.

Wooden garage floors also have their disadvantages, which include the ability to absorb odors, susceptibility to putrefactive processes, and low fire resistance. However, all these disadvantages can be easily mitigated by using special impregnations that make the performance characteristics of wood much better.

Wooden floor after painting

To summarize, it should be noted that wooden flooring in the garage is a rather controversial decision, which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Whether to give preference to it or not depends on the needs of the car owner. If he often has to work in a box, then it is better to opt for wood rather than risk his health by lying on a cold concrete screed. And to save appearance For coverings, you can use special rubber strips or roofing felt strips along which the car will drive out and drive in.

11-05-2012: Sergey

Thank you very much, it’s quite detailed and clear, the channel suits me.

18-01-2013: Vladislav Ivanovich

Thanks for the useful articles.
Please clarify where the number 34.2 comes from in the sentence: “the channel has a moment of resistance according to the range of 34.9 cm3, the I-beam has 34.2 cm3”? In the assortment I only found channel 10P Wz-34.9 cm3, but I don’t see 34.2 point-blank. Or did I misunderstand something?

18-01-2013: Doctor Lom

Yes, indeed, there was a typo in the article. For I-beam No. 10, the moment of resistance is 37.9 cm3. The typo has been corrected, thanks for your attention.

08-09-2013: Maksim

At the very beginning, the load is indicated as 25 kg/m2, and the moment is given in kg METERS. The load still needs to be divided by the cargo area, otherwise where did the square meters go?

08-09-2013: Doctor Lom

The fact is that to simplify calculations, the load is calculated on beams located every 1 m or on a conventional beam 1 m wide. Therefore, the load per 1 m^2 is multiplied by 1 m and linear meters are obtained. I actually voiced this quite late. I'll add it earlier.

20-10-2013: Alexander

Good afternoon
house 10x10 (9.4x9.4) it is required to fill the floor slab h-14 cm along beams 14 every 1.6 m (the beams will be in concrete) reinforcement 8 pitch 250x250 in two grids. The calculation showed Fm 1.4 cm. Please clear my doubts

20-10-2013: Doctor Lom

As far as I understand, you are going to lay metal beams most likely from I-beams, and between them there will be reinforced concrete slabs. So, for a slab 1.6 m long, the reinforcement looks quite sufficient, but whether the metal beams will withstand the load is a big question.
It’s another matter if there are walls in the middle of the house that serve as the middle support for the beams. However, about interior walls you didn't write anything.

14-02-2014: Basil

In the conditions of the problem, the pipe is 60 * 60 * 3.5, and as a result we get I-beam No. 12, what to do with the pipe? throw it away?

14-02-2014: Doctor Lom

In principle, if the task is to use only the specified pipe, then there is such an option. Now I’ll add an addition to the article (it won’t fit in the comments).

25-03-2014: Andrey

Hello, can you tell me if 63 equal-flange angles laid on supports every 1.5 m will withstand a standard load (400-500 kg/m)?

26-03-2014: Doctor Lom

05-06-2014: Vladimir

Kind. I got confused in the article wooden flooring f the distributed load is 400 * 4 m and here the load is 6.5 * 400 cm. And why when the distance between the beams is made smaller, the deflection increases

05-06-2014: Doctor Lom

In the article about calculation wooden floor a uniformly distributed load is considered. Here, when determining the deflection of the board, the concentrated load from the wheel is considered. Both uniformly distributed and concentrated loads act on the beam, so P
When determining the deflection of a beam, to simplify calculations, the concentrated load is reduced to a uniformly distributed one (quite approximately). The basic principles of bringing a concentrated load to a distributed one are given in a separate article.
As the distance between the beams decreases, the deflection of both boards and beams will decrease. The article provides an example of determining the deflection of boards at a distance between beams of 1 m and 0.8 m. When determining the deflection of a board, the span is reduced, and when determining the deflection of a beam, the load on the beam is reduced.

Yes, indeed, the modulus of elasticity of wood is about 1000 kg/mm^2. Corrected, thanks for your attention.

20-08-2014: Alexei

Good evening Doctor Lom
I am asking for help on the issue of pouring the floor in the garage using spilled and compacted sand 200mm thick. I plan to fill B15 with a thickness of 150mm 5.5m * 9.5m for two passenger cars. I’m interested in the reinforcement scheme, there is 6mm A3 reinforcement.

21-08-2014: Doctor Lom

In your case, on the one hand, reinforcement is not needed (if everything is properly compacted), but on the other hand, for reliability, it is advisable to use the existing reinforcement to make both the lower and upper reinforcement of the slab with a mesh with a mesh of about 150 mm (a slab on an elastic base with several concentrated loads and other surprises). Moreover, for upper reinforcement, a 15 mm protective layer is sufficient, and for lower reinforcement, the standards require at least 60 mm of a protective layer when laid directly on the ground. Therefore, it is easier to first make a concrete preparation about 5 cm thick, and then make a 10 cm slab with reinforcement over it.

21-08-2014: Alexei

That is, if I understand correctly, it would be good to make reinforcement at the top and bottom with protective layer 20mm here and there, right?

21-08-2014: Doctor Lom

Yes, if done first concrete preparation or waterproofing.

22-08-2014: Alexei

Thank you very much, waterproofing plastic film 250 microns.

04-10-2014: Sergey

Dear Doctor Lom, please tell me if I made the calculation correctly for this problem. Otherwise, when you start something, you think, maybe after making the calculations, you see that there is even a reserve. I just don’t know how the racks will behave.
It is necessary to make formwork for pouring a floor slab with a height of 15 cm and a clearance of 7.55 m x 4.25 m.
If the beams, racks and flooring boards are made of 40x150 mm boards, 4.25; 2.06 and 3.77 meters long, respectively. The span between the beams is 0.9 m, the distance between the posts is 1.4 m.
Because I have a three-span beam with equal spans and evenly distributed load then the bending moment will be M = ql2/10 = 400x1.42/10 = 78.4 kgm or 7840 kgcm. The board used is 2nd grade pine and the moment of resistance for it is W = 7840/132.56 = 59.14 cm3. And then the height of the beam will be
h = ? 59.14 x6/4 = 9.42 cm, we accept 10 cm (doubtful).
We determine what load the boards will withstand. The load from the concrete will be approximately
q=0.15x2500=375kg/m2. The load from the boards themselves with a thickness of 40 mm will be approximately
0.04x500=20kg/m2. the total load will be 375 + 20 = 395 or, for good measure, 400 kg/m2.
There are 6.67 boards in 1 m2 of flooring with a width of 15 cm. Then the load on one board 1 m long
will be 400/6.67 = 59.97 or 60 kgm, or 6000 kgcm. Required moment of resistance
Wtr=6000/100=60cm3, then the height of the board will be?6x60/15=4.9cm,
we take 5 cm. Then for such a board W = 15x 52/6 = 375/6 = 62.5 cm3.
Then the maximum bending moment is 63x100 = 6300 kgcm, and the maximum span
2x6300/62.5=12600/62.5=201.6 cm (something doubtful).

04-10-2014: Doctor Lom

I'll try briefly. In general, all this can be accepted. Now more details.

Since you have a span between the beams of 0.9 m, the calculated load on the beam will be slightly less, however, taking into account the fact that you will move along the formwork when concreting, a small margin will not hurt.
I have no doubts about the height of the beam being 10 cm, but this is according to strength calculations. In order not to bother with calculations based on deformations, simply take the height of the beam equal to the height of the board.
And then you rushed a little. The load on one board 15 cm wide can actually be taken as 60 kg/m (and not 60 kgm), then, even if in one or several areas the board is laid on 2 beams (such a board will be a single-span beam), then the maximum bending moment for such a short board it will be M = 60x0.9^2/8 = 6.075 kgm or 607.5 kgm. Accordingly, Wtr = 607.5/100 = 6.075 cm^3, and Wboards = 15x4^2/6 = 40 cm^3, i.e. You have more than enough stock.
I advise you to look at the article “Calculation of a wooden floor”, where all these features are discussed in sufficient detail, and regarding the stability test wooden stand There is also a separate article “An example of calculating a wooden stand and compression struts.” Here I will only say that the load on the racks is the support reactions for a three-span beam.

06-10-2014: Sergey

I recalculated according to the article “Calculation of wooden floors”, it turns out that with q = 400 kg/m^2 and a span length of 0.9 m, the bending moment is (400x0.9^2)/8 = 4050 kg cm, the moment of resistance is 4050/130 = 31.15 cm^ 3 and then the height of the beam with a width of 4 cm will be 6.84 cm. If I understand everything correctly, then in principle you can increase the distance between the beams, although this will not lead to great savings, and in such situations it seems to me better to be on the safe side than not get dressed.
Now for the racks. Load on racks = 1.1ql=1.1x400x1.4= 616 kg. With a stand width of 4 cm, the radius of inertia will be iy = (Iy/F)^1/2 = (b^2/12)^1/2 = (4^2/12)^1/2 = 1.15 cm. Stand length 206 cm , then the flexibility of the stand? = lo/iy = 206/ 1.15 = 179.13. Because? > 70, then? = A/?2= 3000/179.3^2=0.094. The area of ​​the selected section is F = 4x15 = 60 cm2. Now we determine whether the selected section 616/(0.094x60)=109.22 is sufficient<130 кг/см2 - т.е. стоек размером 206х15х4 см вполне достаточно.Вот только с таблицей предельных значений гибкости непонятно. Мне думается, что для моей конструкции больше подходт определение "Основные элементы", для которых предельная гибкость 150 у меня же получилась 179, а по сечению вроде бы нормально. Как здесь быть и верны ли мои расчеты.

06-10-2014: Doctor Lom

In general, everything is correct, but for racks the flexibility is really too high, for reliability it is better to make racks from two knocked down boards, then the flexibility will decrease by 2 times.

07-10-2014: Dmitriy

Dr. Lom, please help me with this question.
We are building a basement in the garage, the perimeter of the basement is lined with FBS, size 4.3 * 2.3, then we plan to fill the basement ceiling with botton. At the moment, we put 4 pieces of 10-beam I-beams on the FBS with a pitch of 90 cm, laid a board between the I-beams, laid 12-th reinforcement along the perimeter, all this will be filled with concrete (2m3) about 15 cm. Will the I-beam, as I understand it, stand? After setting, the slab itself will already take on part of the load. Next, the slab will be covered with a 1.8 meter layer of clay.

08-10-2014: Doctor Lom

If the channel is about 2.3 m long, then this is quite enough for the formwork, and then everything will depend on how exactly the reinforcement is laid. If the reinforcement is also about 2.3 m long and laid along the channels, then such a slab, after gaining strength, will indeed have a certain load-bearing capacity. If the reinforcement is short, about 0.9 m long, then such a slab will still transfer the load to the channel and such channels should also be designed for the load from the overlying soil.

08-10-2014: Sergey

Tell me, if I replace the beams and racks with a pipe, and make the beam double-span, are my calculations correct in this case?
Pipe D=57, d=50; span 2.1 m
Cross-sectional area F=5.88 cm2
Moment of inertia Iу =21.44 cm3
Moment of resistance Wz=Wy=7.42 cm3

Maximum bending moment
Mmax = (q x l2) / 8 = 400x2.12/8 = 220.5 kgm or 22050 kgcm
Required moment of resistance:
Wreq = 22050 / 2100 = 10.5 cm3
Support reaction B = 10ql/8 =(10*400*2.1)/8 =1050
Radius of gyration iy = (Iy/F) ? =(21.44/5.88)1.2 = 1.9 cm
The length of the stand is 206cm, then the flexibility of the stand? = lo /iy = 206/ 1.9 = 108.42
Buckling coefficient? = 0.520
Design resistance of steel. Ry = 2100 kgf/cm2
Determine whether the section of this rack is sufficient
1050/(0,52*5,88)=343.47< 2100, т.е. достаточно.

09-10-2014: Doctor Lom

For racks, pipes are indeed sufficient, but for a two-span beam it is not, since the required moment of resistance is greater than the moment of resistance of the pipe. So it is better to leave the three-span beam.

20-10-2014: Sergey

Tell me, dear Doctor Lom, what method should be used to calculate the walls of a frame house? And do the wall stud designs in the example given https://yadi.sk/i/oBGwmSEAc9PRM have a right to life? The fact is that I need a wall at least 18 cm thick, and from the lumber that can be bought from us I can make the racks, at best, are 13 or 15 cm wide. In the first option, the width of the racks can vary from the same, say 8+8+2 (veins), to, for example, 10+6+2. In the second variation, 13+13 or 15+15 with overlap. The pitch of the racks in both cases is no more than 60cm. Thank you.

21-10-2014: Doctor Lom

The design of the wall of a frame house depends on the design loads and may well be the same as in the picture you indicated.
There is nothing complicated in calculating racks; look at the article “An example of calculating a wooden rack, compression struts.”

30-10-2014: Sergey

Dear Doctor Lom! I carried out calculations of the racks based on the “Example of calculation of a wooden rack, compression struts”, and even more questions arose. https://yadi.sk/i/Ttgq6oURcPEv8, https://yadi.sk/i/cX4eR8kJcPFE9, https://yadi.sk/i/fx2bi7j1cPFHQ, as can be seen in the first two cases, the flexibility limits exceed the permissible values. Although I have reviewed a lot of frame house projects and mostly the thickness of the racks is 30-35 mm. But the entire structure is then sheathed with plywood, OSB or boards and a rigid box is obtained. Maybe based on this, flexibility can be neglected? Next question. If I assemble the racks in a whip style, as in the picture https://yadi.sk/i/7Z7-21X5cPGMj, then what width should I take b1 or b2? Or split the load? I have the following design https://yadi.sk/i/q1bH0kZzcPGeU. How to calculate a rack if it goes through two floors?

30-10-2014: Doctor Lom

Since your racks will be sheathed with sheet material, you need to consider not individual bars - racks, but the entire structure as a whole. In other words, you need to determine all the necessary parameters for the composite section (for 1 linear meter of the wall), you can see how this is done in the article “Calculating the strength of a ceiling profile for plasterboard.”
Even if the rack passes through 10 floors, the estimated length will still be equal to the height of one floor if the ceilings prevent the horizontal movement of the racks (and this is usually the case).

05-11-2014: Sergey

Dear Doctor Lom!
Understanding the formulas: determining the position of the center of gravity of the section
yc = Sz/F = (F1y1 + 2F2y2 +2F3y3)/(F1 +2F2 +2F3) = (0.3x0.025 + 2x0.13x1.35 + 2x0.03x2.675)/0.69 = (0.0075 + 0.351 + 0.1675) /0.69 = 0.7623 cm.
and moment of inertia
Iz = ?(Iz + y2F) = 6x0.053/12 + 6x0.05x(0.7623 - 0.025)2 + 2(0.05x2.63/12) + 2(0.05x2.6)(1.3 - 0.7623)2 + 2 (0.6x0.053/12) + 2(0.6x0.05)(2.7 - 0.7623 - 0.025)2 = 0.0000625 + 0.16308 + 0.14646 + 0.07517 + 0.000012 + 0.2195 = 0.6043 cm4.
confused with the values ​​of y1, y2, and y3. If with y1 it is more or less clear, then with y2 and y3 I am confused. In the first case, y2 = 1.35, y3 = 2.675, then in the second case 1.3 and 2.7, respectively. I sketched a picture here https://yadi.sk/i/m0qkSgDPcVaQN and it seems to me that the correct values ​​should be y2=1.347 and y3=2.65. Or did I understand something wrong?
And if 1 linear meter of my wall looks like this https://yadi.sk/i/hXc0UrrocVaRb, then how can I determine the position of the center of gravity of the section? Or do you need to take this meter so that all the racks are located symmetrically?

05-11-2014: Doctor Lom

1. Since the center of gravity of the reduced section is not known to us, the calculation is made relative to the axes passing through the bottommost (y-axis) and leftmost (z-axis) points of the cross-section. Accordingly, y2 = 1.35, and y3 = 2.675 (however, the figure you indicated does not correctly display the position of the centers of gravity of simple geometric figures).
2. Even if you have an asymmetrical section, the calculation algorithms do not change. The determination of the center of gravity of the reduced section is carried out in exactly the same way (of course, provided that the design resistance of the bars and sheet material is equal).

06-11-2014: Sergey

Dear Doctor Lom! I apologize for being annoying, but I want to understand this issue, but I haven’t studied the strength of materials. Now https://yadi.sk/i/POh_IJyzcX4Lt, I hope I set the center and distance correctly. In this design, will I have to count the sections of all (1,2,3,4,5) elements? Should elements 1 and 3 be counted as whole, or if there is a junction somewhere, then as two different elements?
And yet, Dr. Lom, I need purely practical advice. I have a rather large span, almost 6 meters, and I don’t want to install columns. We need floor beams (interfloor) with a height of more than 20 cm, but it is impossible to find such a board here; if you order it from somewhere, it will be gold. If I collect them like this https://yadi.sk/i/1dCeDVrkcX4wy , will I need to count them the same way as a wall?

06-11-2014: Doctor Lom

Yes, now you have arranged everything correctly and you really need to first determine the cross-sectional areas of all 5 elements. However, elements 1 and 3, 2 and 5 have the same area (judging by the figure), moreover, the distance from the center of gravity to the axis of elements 2 and 5 is the same, which makes it possible to reduce the number of mathematical operations. In addition, you can simplify the calculations even more if you do not take into account the presence of element 4 during the calculations. This element has a relatively small area and if you do not take it into account, the result you obtain will give a small margin of safety, which never hurts, but the cross-section will then be symmetrical and the center of gravity will then be in the middle of the height of the section and this will further simplify the determination of the moment of inertia of the section.
Even if there is a joint somewhere in elements 1 and 3, this does not affect the value of the moment of inertia relative to the axis under consideration, so these elements can be considered as solid, of course, provided that the gap at the junction is small, however, the accepted margin may be useful here in terms of strength.
Yes, the moment of inertia and the moment of resistance for the cross sections of the beam are determined in the same way as for the cross section of the wall. For information, you can look at the article “Moments of inertia of a cross section.”

07-11-2014: Sergey

Dear Doctor Lom! I got to the point of calculating the bending moment https://yadi.sk/i/xJifMrKycYX86 and again there’s a problem. The calculated resistance of wood is 130 kg/cm2, plywood Rф=(180+110)/2=145 kg/cm2. And in order to make them common, do you need to take the average or something else? And I hope I wrote the formulas correctly?

07-11-2014: Doctor Lom

In order not to bother with determining the characteristics of the reduced section, simply perform the calculation using the lowest calculated resistance. This again will give a small margin of safety, since the difference in calculated resistances is not large.
And also, since you have a symmetrical section, the center of gravity of the section will be on the same axis as the centers of gravity of the bars. Those. yc = y2 = 8.4 cm. And you made an error because you incorrectly determined the values ​​of y1 and y3 (0.9/2 = 0.45 and not 0.045). In addition, when determining the moment of resistance, the value of the moment of inertia must be divided by us (y2).

07-11-2014: Sergey

Corrected it, it turned out like this https://yadi.sk/i/HHfR-Js0cZRTC. If I understand this calculation correctly, then a meter of such a wall will easily support one and a half tons, i.e. Is it possible to install the interfloor ceiling, the walls of the second floor, the attic floor and the roof?

07-11-2014: Doctor Lom

It may hold up, but it just needs to be checked by calculation. But I don’t do calculations, I can only suggest something based on theory.

08-11-2014: Sergey

And what I thought was not a calculation? Or perhaps something else needs to be calculated? Please tell me.

08-11-2014: Doctor Lom

The calculation, of course, is not quite the same. It seems that you were going to test the frame wall for stability (that is, the structure that will be mainly subject to longitudinal loads), and not the beam for the moment generated by the action of transverse forces. Return to the article "Example of calculation of a wooden stand, compression struts." And if part of the load on your walls is applied with eccentricity, for example from floor beams, then additionally take into account the moment that arises; there is a similar example in the article “Calculation of metal columns”.

02-07-2015: Alexei

Good afternoon, Doctor Lom! I decided to calculate the floor slab for a garage with a basement for two cars. The basement walls t=400 mm are monolithic, the slab is 7x7 m, 200 mm thick. Based on your diagram, I assumed that the most unfavorable position of the machines would be if they stood on top of each other (which cannot be, but I don’t know how to calculate it any other way). Considering that the weight of the car is 2000 kg, then the pressure of the wheel on the floor from two cars will be 1000 kg:
M(auto)=(250+1000*50/700)*500=160714.3kgf*cm
temporary load: q(v)=400 kg/sq.m.
floor load: q(floor)=100 kg/sq.m.
floor load: q(slab)=500 kg/sq.m.
q(total)=400+100+500=1000 and multiply by reliability coefficient 1.2 =1200 kg/sq.m.
Ma=q(total)*l*l/16 = 1200*49/16=3675kg/m
M=(Ma+Mb)/2 =(3675*1.4142+3675)/2=4436.1 kgm*m
M(max)=M+M(auto)=443610+1607144.3=604324.3kgf*cm
select fittings:
ho1=18cm
ho2=16cm
concrete B25 Rb=147kgf/cm2
Ao1=604324.3/(100*18*18*147)=0.127; n(o1)=0.93;e(o1)=0.14;
Ao2=604324.3/(100*16*16*147)=0.16; n(o1)=0.91;e(o1)=0.18;
Fо1=6043.243/(093*0.18*36000000)=10 sq.cm;
Fо2=6043.243/(091*0.16*36000000)=11.53 sq.cm.
According to the table, we accept reinforcement 16 sh. = 150 * 150 F = 12.06 sq. cm.
I want to put the upper and lower mesh into the slab with reinforcement 16 sh. = 150 * 150. Tell me, have I chosen the mesh correctly, am I counting correctly? How to calculate the deflection? What else should be calculated and how?

03-07-2015: Doctor Lom

In principle, you did a good job and calculated almost everything, but there are a few comments:
1. Your situation is somewhat different from that described in the article. The most unfavorable option will be when 2 cars stand next to each other and, accordingly, 4 conditionally concentrated loads from the wheels act on the slab. Therefore, it makes sense for you to reduce these concentrated loads to an equivalent uniformly distributed load to simplify the calculations (you still determined the support reaction and, accordingly, the bending moment from the cars incorrectly). Look at the article "Reducing a concentrated load to a uniformly distributed one."
2. With such a reinforcement diameter, the protective layer is not sufficient, i.e. should be taken to be at least 2.5 cm and, accordingly, hо1 = 17.5 cm.
For the upper mesh, you can use reinforcement of a smaller diameter, reinforcing it with additional rods along a contour 1-1.5 m long. If you lay reinforcement in both the upper and lower zones of the section, then you will need transverse reinforcement (however, you will still need it, since as the height of the slab is more than 15 cm). How to choose it, see the article “Structural requirements for reinforcement of beams and floor slabs.”
Regarding the deflection, there are articles “Determination of the deflection of a reinforced concrete beam,” but you can also use the coefficient, see the article “Tables for calculating plates hingedly supported along the contour.”

07-07-2015: Alexei

Good evening, Doctor Lom! Thanks for your comments! I continued to count, taking into account your comments:
according to the article "Bringing a concentrated load to a uniformly distributed one":
the article indicates two options: a) M(auto(a)=1.2*4*q*l^2/8*l=1.2*4*500*7*7/7*8=2100kgf*m
M=4436.1 kgm*m
M(max(a)=M+M(auto)=4436.1+2100=6536.1kgf*m
select fittings:
ho1=17.5cm
ho2=15.5cm
concrete B25 Rb=147kgf/cm2
Ao1=653610/(100*17.5*17.5*147)=0.1452; n(o1)=0.92;e(o1)=0.16;
Ao2=653610/(100*15.5*15.5*147)=0.16; n(o1)=0.895;e(o1)=0.21;
Fo1=6536.10/(0.92*0.175*36000000)=11.3 sq.cm;
Fо2=6536.10/(0.895*0.155*36000000)=13.1 sq.cm.
According to the table, we accept reinforcement 18 sh. = 150 * 150 F = 14.07 sq. cm.
Further on the article "Tables for calculating plates hingedly supported along the contour":

f=-k*q*l^4/(E*h^3)
q=1.2*4*q/8*l = 1.2*4*500/8*7=43kg/m
f=0.0443*43*7^4/30*10^-3*102000*0.2^3=187 cm
f=187cm is a lot, I decided to calculate it using the article “Determining the deflection of a reinforced concrete beam”:
f=k*5*q*l^4/384*E*I
k=0.86
q=q(auto)+q(total)=43+1200=1243 kg*m
W=q*l/8*Rb = 12.43*700^2/8*147=5180 cm3
y2=(3*W/2*b)^0.5 = (3*5180/2*100)^0.5 =8.82
y^3=3*As*(ho-y)^2*Es/b*Eb
y=9.59 cm
y(p)=y-(y2-y)=9.59-(8.82-9.59)=10.36cm
I=2*b*y(p)^3/3 =2*100*10.36^3/3 = 74129 cm4
f=0.86*5*12.43*700^4/384*300000*74129=1.5 cm

Now I calculated for option b) M(auto(b)=q*l/2=500*7/2=1750kgf*m
M=4436.1 kgm*m
M(max(b)=M+M(auto)=4436.1+1750=6186.1kgf*m
select fittings:
ho1=17.5cm
ho2=15.5cm
concrete B25 Rb=147kgf/cm2
Ao1=618610/(100*17.5*17.5*147)=0.138; n(o1)=0.925;e(o1)=0.15;
Ao2=618610/(100*15.5*15.5*147)=0.175; n(o1)=0.9;e(o1)=0.2;
Fo1=6186.1/(0.925*0.175*36000000)=10.6 sq.cm;
Fо2=6186.1/(0.9*0.155*36000000)=12.3 sq.cm.
According to the table, we accept reinforcement 18 sh. = 200 * 200 F = 12.7 sq. cm.
Further on the article "Tables for calculating plates hingedly supported along the contour":
the deflection was calculated for option "a"
f=-k*q*l^4/(E*h^3)
q=4*q/l = 4*500/7=286kg/m
f=0.0443*286*7^4/30*10^-3*102000*0.2^3=1242.7 cm
f=1242.7 cm is a lot, I decided to calculate it using the article “Determining the deflection of a reinforced concrete beam”:
f=k*5*q*l^4/384*E*I
k=0.86
q=q(auto)+q(total)=286+1200=1486 kg*m
W=q*l/8*Rb = 14.86*700^2/8*147=6191.7 cm3
y2=(3*W/2*b)^0.5 = (3*6191.7/2*100)^0.5 =9.64
y^3=3*As*(ho-y)^2*Es/b*Eb
y=9.4 cm
y(p)=y-(y2-y)=9.4-(9.64-9.4)=9.16cm
I=2*b*y(p)^3/3 =2*100*9.16^3/3 = 51238.4 cm4
f=0.86*5*14.86*700^4/384*300000*51238.4=2.6 cm
Tell me if I calculated correctly and if there are any errors in the translation of the units. ?

08-07-2015: Doctor Lom

Everything seems to be correct with the selection of the reinforcement section. But this is so, by eye, I have already said that I do not check the accuracy of the calculations. But when determining the deflection, especially using the coefficient, you made several mistakes (however, this is a calculation based on group 2 of limit states and there is nothing wrong with that). So, when determining the deflection, firstly, the full value of the load should be taken. At the same time, you did not separately determine the value of the equivalent distributed load from cars; it will be higher, somewhere around 350-400 kg/m, and not 43 for option 1 (in the second option, you seem to have determined the load from cars more accurately). Next, the table value of the modulus of elasticity for concrete is 30x10^8 kg/m^2, if you are counting in meters, or 300,000 kg/cm^2 when calculating in centimeters (you were not mistaken in this calculation). And what kind of number this is - 102000 - I didn’t understand at all. In general, the whole calculation looks more or less plausible.

29-10-2015: Albert

Hello! Wonderful site. I would like to clarify the reactions of the supports. Your “In option b, the reaction of the left support is 250+500x350/400=687.5 kg.” The result is correct, but the numerator contains the number 250. What is this? Reaction of the left support: (500*350+500*200)/400=687.5. I am wrong?

29-10-2015: Doctor Lom

That’s right, I just didn’t remember that with a concentrated load applied in the middle of the span, the reactions are equal to each other and amount to half of the applied concentrated load (this is like the basics of strength of strength, but perhaps this point should not have been lazy and described in more detail, that, however, that’s what I’m doing now). Thus, the support reaction from one wheel is 500/2 = 250 kg and you only need to determine the reaction from the second wheel, and then add the resulting data.
However, as I already said, your writing of the equation is more correct, although it requires more mathematical operations.

Wood flooring in a garage is not the best flooring. Wood can quickly deteriorate and absorb oils and other technical fluids. Wood shrinks and warps from excess moisture. Such a floor is unsafe in terms of fire protection. You can make a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands, but this covering should be considered as temporary. Its installation does not require large investments; it will last 5-10 years.

Required Tools

How to make a wooden floor in a garage? To install it, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• sawing board;
• hammer;
• nail puller;
• stapler;
• mount;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• nails or dowels and screws;
• grinder;
• measurement tool;
• mounting thread;
• drying oil;
• oil paint;
• antiseptic;
• paint brush;
• roller

How to make a wooden floor

A garage is a storage area for a car. To support its weight, you need to have a solid foundation. It can be organized in the following ways:

• build a cushion of sand and gravel and fill it with concrete;
• install brick pillars on the ground.

The concrete pad case is used often. Boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more are laid on the finished base. It is good if the boards are about 50 mm thick. Then the logs can be laid with wider spacing. The logs are made of 100x100 mm timber. All wooden parts must be thoroughly treated with antiseptics and dried. The work can be performed in the following order:

1. Waterproofing is laid on concrete.
2. Logs are installed.
3. The floor is insulated.
4. Boards are being installed.

The waterproofing layer is made of roofing felt and PVC film. New materials from membrane films can be used. The sheets of film or roofing felt are laid overlapping, the joints are taped with tape with water-repellent properties.

The logs are installed on a concrete base in increments of approximately 40 cm. The evenness of the installation is controlled by a level. The logs are attached to the concrete with dowels. Insulation material is placed inside the frame. This can be polystyrene foam, mineral wool, expanded clay. The top of the insulation is covered with a layer of film.

The boards should be laid end to end, without gaps. The floorboards are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws. You can use nails. The boards should be placed along the direction of the car - this way they will last longer. Instead of boards, thick plywood can be used.

If there is no concrete base, brick columns are installed under the logs. To make them, use ordinary red building bricks. The size of the columns is 25x25 cm. The height may vary. The soil for the posts is specially prepared. This is done like this:

• the surface is leveled;
• watered;
• columns are installed.

Clean river sand is poured onto the leveled surface. The thickness of the layer is 4 cm. A layer of gravel or expanded clay 3 cm thick is laid on top of it. Both layers are thoroughly watered and compacted. Brick columns are placed in rows in those places where the lags are planned to be installed. The distance between the supports is approximately 80 cm, the spacing of the rows is 30 cm. Insulation made of roofing felt and logs is laid on top of the columns. Next you can insulate the floor and lay down boards. The boards can be painted later.

For a garage floor, you need to choose a board not only based on thickness. It is better to make the floor from softwood planks. It could be pine, spruce or larch. Of the deciduous species, oak is suitable. But this pleasure is very expensive. All material must be free of cracks and other defects. Nails are nailed into the board to a depth of 3 mm from the surface. The holes are sealed and painted over.

Using screws and self-tapping screws is a more reliable method, but also more labor-intensive. For each fastener, you need to drill a hole in the board and chamfer it. It is necessary to leave a gap of approximately 1.5 cm between the walls and the edges of the boards. In the future, it will be covered with a plinth.

This gap is needed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the flooring. To obtain a perfectly smooth surface, you can sand the finished floor. This completes the installation of a wooden floor in the garage.

Good day. Can you tell me what weight an edged board can withstand depending on the thickness of 1 m2 of prefabricated board made of boards or a linear meter of board when loaded from above? Are there any snippets for this information?

Alexey, Perm.

Hello, Alexey from Perm!

For example, not a single scientific luminary can explain why a funnel is formed when water is drained through a hole at the bottom of the bathtub? How many copies around this effect have been broken, but there are no reliable explanations.

I am not so strong in theoretical physical and mathematical calculations to give the correct answer to the mountain.

In my opinion, the load per square meter of a panel made from edged boards can reach several tens of tons.

If we consider the physical meaning of this problem, then with incomparably different densities of the base on which a wooden board shield lies (for example, under the shield there is a perfectly flat surface of a concrete monolith or a steel sheet 20 - 30 millimeters thick), the load is evenly distributed over each square millimeter of the shield (for example, cast concrete cubes with an edge size of 1 meter laid strictly vertically on top of each other), the weight can reach from several tons to twenty to thirty tons.

And the thickness of the board plays an indirect role here. We are talking about a constant, not a dynamic load. With the latter, the destructive loads can be several orders of magnitude less.

That is, by applying a sufficiently maximum load on the shield, when it reaches, say, more than thirty tons, we can observe the effect of wood collapse. And if after this the load is removed, the wood will be “flattened”.

I am basing this on visual effects, having seen wooden beams embedded (walled up) in the walls and towers of medieval fortresses and monasteries. Above these beams there was masonry several tens of meters high, therefore the weight on the beams was approximately tens of tons.

Of course, the type of wood and the degree of moisture in the wood play an important role. It’s one thing if the wood is hornbeam, ash, maple, and quite another if it’s aspen or pine needles.

Wood behaves completely differently under different types of loads, and they can be directed both along the fibers and across them.

As for the cantilever arrangement of a wooden panel or edged board, there are completely different principles here. That is, if you have an edged board embedded in the thickness of the wall so that about a meter of it is inside the wall and it protrudes from the wall by a meter, and you apply an ever-increasing load to the end of the protruding board. When the maximum load is reached, the board will break, usually at the end of the wall surface.

Elementary theoretical mechanics plus strength of materials. There is a clamped beam, a shoulder, a point of application of force, and a moment of force is formed. The larger the shoulder, the less force can be applied to prevent fracture.

And here the cross-section of the edged board is decisive. The larger it is, the stronger the beam. If the board is installed flat, it can withstand less destructive load. If the board is installed on an edge, then the breaking load can reach significantly higher parameters. Therefore, in house structures, edged boards are almost always installed on edge (floor joists, beams, crossbars, rafters).

In addition, not only this is important, but also the quality of the wood, the presence of knots, peelings, cracks, curls and other defects in it. It is undesirable to use the central parts of the trunk, its middle and upper parts. Dead wood, redwood. The butt part, wood harvesting during the period of minimal sap flow (with the exception of aspen), and some other factors are preferable.

Therefore, taking into account all that has been said above, I cannot give you detailed calculations at what maximum stress values ​​in wood its strength limit occurs.

If you are still interested in this topic, then you can look in more detail on the Internet in the sections on the strength of wood under static loads and in relation to your particular option. SNiP II-25-80 is what interests you. /Although I’ll say right away that it won’t be easy to understand the materials/.

Personally, in our team we stick to intuition rather than using reference data. And so, according to the workers and peasants, the more powerful the section of the board, the more it can withstand the load.

I answered as best I could, anyone who can explain it more clearly will be grateful.

Ask a question to Semenych (author of materials)

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