Ona River, Tashtypsky district, Republic of Khakassia, Russia. Rafting on the One and the Big On, Khakassia He and She River in Khakassia

The Ona River in Khakassia is well known among rafters. Stormy, dangerous, rapids of varying levels of difficulty, there are areas where special notices are installed (this means that rafters are advised to land and walk around the area) - in general, there is room for your soul to turn around. It was on such a site (the Maxim threshold) that a group of tourists from Moscow and Penza got into trouble. On Monday, a catamaran carrying six tourists, including two women and two teenagers, capsized. All the rafters ended up in the water.

Not raked!

The leader of the group was 39-year-old Mikhail Medvedik from Penza. Mikhail has been into rafting for many years. He and another resident of Penza, Ivan Domorev, have been traveling to Khakassia since 2007. In general, both are “advanced” people in sports rafting, well prepared, with more than one threshold behind them. It’s in Penza that each of them has their own life (Mikhail, for example, is a candidate of physical and mathematical sciences, associate professor at Penza State University), but here there are mountains, a rapids river, freedom... As for teenagers, Nikolai S. and Pavel F. are 15 years old , have been seriously interested in sports tourism and rafting for several years. Little is known about the women: they have been involved in tourism for a long time, Olga Yakusheva is about 50 years old, Tatyana F.’s data is unknown (it is being clarified who exactly all the rafting participants are related to each other - editor’s note).

- “Maxim” is a very difficult threshold of category IV (in total there are categories VI, the last one is the most dangerous, the threshold of the sixth category does not forgive mistakes - approx.). This means that it has at least four drains in different directions, the length of the threshold is about 500 - 700 meters, - the head of the South Siberian search and rescue team of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia Alexander Sebov told Komsomolskaya Pravda - Krasnoyarsk, - there is a turn at 90 degrees and a slope slab in the water that goes straight to the bottom of the river. When the water rises, which we are now seeing on Ona due to heavy rainfall, it is not advisable to pass the threshold.


Immediately behind “Maxim” the “cheeks” begin - a place where the rocks seem to squeeze the river. Then - another dangerous rapids, “Snake”. In addition, according to information from local residents, there are sold-out signs in this area - that is, rafters are advised to walk around it along the shore on their own two feet. In general, not the easiest section.

Traditionally, the most experienced and strong tourists sit on the bow and back of the catamaran - this is done to make the vessel easier to control and, on occasion, to insure less prepared rafting participants. Presumably, it was Mikhail and Ivan - both have qualifications as rafting instructors and considerable experience. Most likely, the propeller and the one who was sitting behind (which of the men occupied what place - law enforcement officers are looking into it - approx.) were unable to work in pairs, and the catamaran was thrown onto that same slope slab, and then turned over.


Rescue of drowning people

Further versions of what happened differ. According to one of them, at the last moment Ivan Domorev was able to cling to the frame of the catamaran and was dragged downstream until he washed ashore. The rest immediately went under water and became lost in the foaming mountain stream. According to another version, Olga and Tatyana clung to the catamaran, and Domorev swam out on his own. Both options are quite possible. Ivan spent another day on the river bank waiting for help.

The next day he was picked up by a group of rafters from Sayanogorsk. And delivered to the city of Abaza (this is the closest settlement).

The Sayanogorsk residents dropped Ivan off and continued the rafting. And Domorev rushed as fast as he could into the city for help. He managed to inform rescuers about the tragedy on Ona only at 13.00 local time on Wednesday... That same evening, three more people got out of the Abaza road construction department’s base lost in the taiga - Mikhail Medvedik and two teenagers.

“We only have satellite communication with the base,” the road workers said, “a watchman is on duty there now, and he met them.” At about half past eight in the evening they came to him. Hungry and tired, but most importantly, alive. Today, Thursday, they were taken to Abaza.


There is a high probability that the second woman is alive

Now rescuers are searching for the women remaining in the taiga. It is already known for sure that one of them died. The search operation was complicated by unfavorable weather conditions and the fact that the tourists went rafting as “savages” without informing either the rescuers or the employees of the Unified Dispatch Service.

As soon as it became known about the incident, a ground rescue group - a KamAZ with 11 people and equipment - a hovercraft - set out to search. An MI-8 helicopter from the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations was also involved in the search; today we inspected the area where the tourists overturned - about 10 kilometers. The body of one of the tourists was found. There is a high probability that the second woman is alive and will be found in the near future,” said Alexander Sebov, head of the South Siberian search and rescue team of the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations.

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Report

about water tourist travel 4 difficulty levels
along the rivers She and Abakan (Western Sayan)

Team leader Ivanov M.K.
2000

The route qualification commission reviewed the report and believes that the trip can be classified as the fourth category of difficulty for all participants and the leader.

Chairman of the ICC

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1. General information about the hike.

8. Length the active part of the route is 219 km, of which: a walking approach to the river. It is 25 km, with a radial exit to the upper reaches of the river. It is 12+12 km, rafting along the river. It is 140 km, rafting along the river. Abakan 30 km.
9. Route thread: Novosibirsk - Novokuznetsk - Abaza (train) - 105 km highway post Ak-Dovurak-Abaza (bus) - lane. Kokhoshsky (n/k) - stream. Kurukul-r. She (on foot) - lake. Ulug-Mungash-Khol (radial exit) - r. She (alloy) - r. Abakan (rafting) - Abaza - Askiz - Novokuznetsk - Novosibirsk (train).

The route is approved by the Novosibirsk regional ICC. Route book issued
№ 0-94-00.

2.Group composition.

1 Ivanov Mikhail Konstantinovich, born 1977 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Tereshkova, 6, apt. 143. D.t. 331158. Experience: Sumulta 5 k.s., participation (1999); Chuya-Ursul-Katun 5th grade, participation (1998); Ursul-Katun 3rd class, manual (1999); Utulik 3 k.s., manual (2000). Head, pilot of catamaran 1.
2 Malysheva Olga Pavlovna, born 1971 House. address: Berdsk, st. Ostrovskogo, 174, apt. 24. Experience: Sumulta 5 k.s., participation (1999). Doctor, caretaker, pilot of catamaran 2.
3 Krasov Andrey Alexandrovich, born 1974 House. address: Novosibirsk, Vesenniy Ave., 4, apt. 56. D.t. 331144. Experience: Kazyr Sayansky 4th grade, participation (1999). Financier, responsible for transport, pilot of catamaran 3.
4 Kurkov Vasily Andreevich, born 1980 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Pirogova, 16, room 317. Experience: Urik 5th class, participation (1996); Chuya-Ursul-Katun 5th grade, participation (1998); Sumulta 5 k.s., participation (1999); Biya 2 k.s., manual (1999). Catamaran pilot 4.
5 Naikova Tatyana Mikhailovna, born 1974 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Arbuzova, 1, apt. 73. Experience: Belsu 3rd class, participation (2000); Ursul-Katun 3rd class, participation (1999). Catamaran sailor 1.
6 Pureskin Dmitry Nikolaevich, born 1977 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Russian. 29 sq. 20. D.t. 339150. Experience: Pyzha-Biya 4 k.s., participation (1997). Photographer, sailor of catamaran 2.
7 Bedareva Elena Anatolyevna, born 1980 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Pirogova 16, room 409. Experience: Belsu 3rd class, participation (1999); Ursul-Katun 3rd class, participation (1999). Catamaran sailor 3.
8 Buldygerov Vyacheslav Vladimirovich, born 1980 House. address: Novosibirsk, st. Pirogova 18, room 114b. Experience: Belsu 3rd class, participation (2000). Cinematographer, catamaran sailor 4.

3. Brief information about the route area.

The route runs through the territory of the Republic of Khakassia. Located in the south of Eastern Siberia, it occupies parts of the Minusinsk and Chulym-Yenisei basins. According to the nature of the relief, the territory of the region is divided into two parts: mountainous (2/3 of the territory) and hilly-flat. The flat areas are called steppes (Abakanskaya, Kaibalskaya, Uybatskaya, etc.) and are confined to the wide valleys of the Yenisei, Abakan rivers and some of their first-order tributaries.
R. It is the right tributary of the river. Abakan. It flows within the Tashtyp district of the Khakass Autonomous Okrug, on the territory of the left bank of the Western Sayan. The Western Sayan ridges (Seljur, Dzhebovsky, Dzheisky, Khansyn, Kirsa) have an almost latitudinal direction, the general orientation of the ridges is northeastern. The relief is mid-mountain, average elevations are from 2000 to 2500 m, the tops of the ridges are smoothed. The area is characterized by kurumniks, rocky outcrops and rounded ridges with tundra vegetation. The highest point of the area is Peak Karatosh (2934 m). There are year-round snowfields. The climate is sharply continental, winters are harsh and little snow with temperatures down to -500C. Average January temperatures are from –19 to –21 0С (in the basins and foothills from –15 to –17 0С). Summers are warm and humid. The average July temperature in the mountains is +17…+18 0С, in the basins about +20 0С. In summer, the climate is determined by the transfer of air masses from the west and northwest. Maximum precipitation is up to 1200 mm (with an annual average of 600-700 mm in the mountains and 300 mm in the valleys). Peak rainfall occurs in July-August.
More than 40% of the territory is covered with forest. Mountain forests of the taiga type are typical for the region. Above 1700 m they thin out, turning into cedar or larch small forests. At the peaks there is mountain tundra and in places subalpine and alpine meadows. The taiga has a large number of berries and mushrooms. The fauna of the area through which the route runs is very rich. Mammals include squirrel, mountain hare, wolf, fox, bear, wild boar, many small rodents - chiplocks and voles. In the foothills you can find moles, ermine, and weasels. Of the large birds, there is a capercaillie. The rivers contain taimen, tench, pike, burbot, grayling, etc., and the mountain lakes contain trout.
All rivers in the region belong to the Yenisei basin. The largest of them is Abakan. The rivers are typically mountainous and high-water. Powered by rain and snow. Flood in May-June.
The main rafting rivers of the region are Ona, Kantegir, Alash, Khemchik, Us, Mrassu, Big and Small Abakan. After the construction of the Kantegir, Alash, Khemchik and Us reservoirs, they began to be visited much less frequently due to the complexity of exiting the route.
Information about the river She: catchment area 4410 m2; The length of the river from the source is 158 km, the first 4 km flows under a stone dam; total elevation difference 798 m; average slope 5 m/km; the average annual flow in July is 137 m3/s (according to the gauging station in the village of M. Anzas); main tributaries: left - Suburduk, Karatosh, Aryl, Karasuma, M. Anzas, B. Anzas; right - Kurukul, B. On.

4.Organization of travel.

The trip was organized by the water tourism club "Splav" of the SK NSU. The application data was reviewed by the Novosibirsk regional ICC. Route book No. 0-94-00 was issued. All members of the group have already completed training trips during this season. The equipment used on the trip had undergone some testing during the season. The rafting equipment belonged to KVT "Splav", the individual equipment was mostly personal. No sponsorship was provided. Immediately before the campaign, a series of organizational meetings were held.

5. Traffic schedule.

1. Departure from Novosibirsk by train Novosibirsk-Novokuznetsk.
2. Arrival in Novokuznetsk. We spent half a day having a nice time in Novokuznetsk and took a tour of the city’s attractions. In the evening, departure to Abaza.
3. Arrival in Abaza. Departure to the 105 km pillar of the Ak-Dovurak-Abaza highway. Hiking through the Kokhoshsky pass and further 3 km to the Kurukul stream and about 4 km along it. We started the walking part at 1310, climbed to the pass at 1405, stopped for the night at 1830. The weather was cloudy until 1400, then rain, clearing in the evening. Along the way we meet many other groups.
4. Walking distance to the river. She. We left at 1030 and arrived at the parking lot at 1630. There were already three groups at the Kurukul and Ona junction. Partly cloudy.
5. Construction of catamarans throughout the day in a clearing 2 km below the Kurukul and Ona arrows. The weather is sunny.
6. Radial access to Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol. We left the camp at 930. One of the participants remained in the camp. We returned to camp around 2000. Partly cloudy during the day. In the middle of the day a thunderstorm passed over the camp, but hardly affected those who went to the lake.
7. In the morning the catamarans were completed. Rafting on the river She's still there. Maksim. We started rafting around 1200. Rafting with frequent stops, recreational in nature. Net running time is 1 hour 40 minutes. Parking lot below the Maxim threshold on the left bank. Midday. Partly cloudy.
8. Rafting on the river. She's still there. Bull. Partly cloudy.
9. Half a day caused by heavy rain. After lunch - rafting along the river. It's a 30-minute walk from the parking lot downstream. Bobsled.
10. Rafting on the river. It reaches a clearing 5 km below the village. B.On. We started the rafting at 1130, finished at 1900. Cloudy, continuous rain from the middle of the day, clearing towards evening.
11. Rafting on the river. It reaches the parking lot 4 km below the village. M. Anzas. We finished the rafting at 2100. The weather was mostly sunny.
12. Rafting on the river. She's up to the second big rapids. Carrying cargo and organizing camp below the threshold.
13. Day. Riding on the threshold. The weather is sunny.
14. River rafting. She and Abakan to Abaza. Rafting along the Ona took 40 minutes, rafting along the Abakan - 4 hours exactly. Departure from Abaza to Askiz and then to Novokuznetsk. In the morning the weather is sunny, then cloudy, raining in the middle of the day, and sunny again in the evening.
15. Arrival in Novokuznetsk. Departure to Novosibirsk.
16. Arrival in Novosibirsk.

6.Entrances and departures

Getting from Novosibirsk to Abaza is simple and this part of the transfer will not be considered in this report.
From Abaza to the 105 km pillar of the Ak-Dovurak-Abaza highway you can get in different ways. Local drivers know exactly where this pillar is and why they should go to it. Numerous reports describe the atrocities of the local auto mafia, allegedly maintaining fixed high prices for their services and resorting to reprisals against those drivers who are ready to carry tourists cheaper. This information is not entirely correct. The prices asked by Niv drivers are indeed somewhat higher than the Russian average, but not significantly. In addition to Nivas, trucks and minibuses also arrive at the incoming train, and departure can be negotiated very cheaply, especially if the transport is similar and you cooperate with other groups. We used the vehicles of the Rodnik travel agency by prior arrangement, which cost us 1,820 rubles. for 10 people (traveled on a bus). This is two times cheaper than driving a Niva. At the same time, another group (also 10 people), without any prior agreement, left to the 105th km in a private minibus for 1200 rubles. And, as far as we noticed, no one threatened the driver of this minibus with violence. The Nivas were parked right there, and their drivers were not left without customers either.
For interested parties, the coordinates of the Rodnik agency: Russia, Republic of Khakassia, 662750, Abaza, st. Filatova 8-1 or PO Box 51, RODNIK LLC. ; t/f (390 47) 23281, tel. 24463. Director - Sanochkin Valery Georgievich.

The water part of the route ends with a return to the city of Abaza. About 200 meters from the bridge over Abakan there is a bus stop, which can take you to any key point in Abaza, its final stop is the railway station. The bus costs 3 rubles and leaves in about 40 minutes. In case of a hurry, it is not difficult to leave this stop by private vehicle.
The direct train to Novokuznetsk runs only on even days, this must be taken into account in advance. (However, before leaving Abaza, it is recommended to obtain confirmation that this situation has not changed.) We were forced to get first to Askiz, and then from Askiz to Novo-Kuznetsk.

The train to Askiz runs daily. It leaves at 2145. The train is small and tickets are difficult to buy. The ticket office opens only at 2100, but it’s better to line up 20 minutes before. The cost of travel for us was less than 18 rubles. About an hour after the train arrives in Askiz, the train leaves for Novokuznetsk. It’s also not easy to get tickets for it; there is a real chance of being stuck overnight. It should be borne in mind that there are no buses or trains from Askiz.
Getting from Novokuznetsk to Novosibirsk is quite simple and will not be considered either. It is possible by trains, trains and buses.

7. Description of the walking approach to the river. She.

Walking approach to the river. It starts from the 105 km pillar of the Ak-Dovurak-Abaza highway. From this point you can clearly see the rise of the highway to the Sayan Pass and the valley that will lead to the Ko-Khosh Pass. Directly from the highway, the path through a grassy wetland (walking time about 20 minutes, distance about 1 km) comes out to a small dry area under large pine trees. Here you can change your shoes if your feet got wet beforehand, and have a snack after collecting water in the stream: there will be no water for a long time. Directly from the site, the ascent to the pass begins, a leisurely ascent to which takes approximately 1 hour (distance about 800 m). It’s possible to get there faster; the leading member of our group spent 40 minutes climbing. The path continuously makes a right turn as it moves. It is rocky, well-trodden, and steepest in the last third of the way to the pass. There is a tour on the pass. From the pass point you can clearly see the river valley. Kurukul. The view is quite good. There is snow on the saddle of the pass until mid-July. The descent from the pass is quite steep; the trail first goes over rocks, and then goes into the forest and goes through the forest. Less than 3 km from the pass, the trail first meets the river. Kurukul. Starting from this place, numerous parking lots begin to come across along it. The path from the pass to the Kurukul and Ona arrows is approximately 22 km. The path goes along the stream, crossing it several times, sometimes getting lost on the pebbles, but then being found back quite easily. In one place there is a significant ambiguity, which consists in the following: the path running along the right bank of the Kurukul approaches it and gets lost in the pebbles. If you cross the stream at this point, you can find a path leading along the left bank and after a while going up when the left bank becomes steep. This path should not be taken. The correct path does not cross to the left bank, but is discovered after some time on the right. About 1.5 hours before the arrow, the trail running along the right bank will pass an unpleasant section of scree. Before reaching 4 km from Ona, the Kurukul valley widens sharply. Here there is a right branch of the path, which also leads to Ona, but at the place where the river flows into it. Karatosh.
In general, the walk to Ona is not difficult and for a catamaran group that does not take boat frames with them, it takes 8-9 hours of pure sailing time.

8. Radial exit to the upper reaches of the river. She.

R. It flows from Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol on the northern slope of Seljur. Seduced by the report of the Saratov group (1997, leader S.Yu. Malova, taken from the Moshkovsky server), we made a radial exit from the Kurukul and Ona spit to this lake. The distance to it is approximately 12 km and can be covered without much effort in 3.5 hours at a walking pace. First you need to ford the river. Kurukul in the area of ​​the arrow. For about an hour, the trail runs along the right bank of the Ona, mostly through the forest, and then emerges into a wide grassy clearing. After about 200 m the trail comes out to the river flood. She. The place is beautiful, you can stop here, there is good parking.
Following this, a wide river valley appears ahead. Suburduk. R. At this point she makes a loop and the path departs somewhat from it. In this place it goes through tall grass and is not very well expressed. As a result, there is a temptation to go to the Suburduk valley. You should not give in to this temptation. After some time, the trail approaches Suburduk, which must be forded. The ford across Suburduk is poorly visible on the way “there”; on the way back it is much easier to identify. The journey from the Ona flood to the ford through Suburduk takes about an hour. Further, the path again approaches Ona and goes along it to a giant stone dam overgrown with forest. This part of the journey takes about 30 minutes. Directly near the place where it flows out from under the stones, you can cross it on a log.
On the approaches to the lake, the trail passes several sharp ascents and descents along the rubble. The journey along the rubble to the lake took us 40 minutes. There are a lot of berries along the way.
The lake itself is nothing special. There are few fish in it, and it is very inconvenient to swim due to the structure of the shore (at least in the southern tip, where we visited). The water, however, warms up quite well by August. Nevertheless, along the road there are many beautiful, memorable places, and if there is excess time, such a radial exit will not harm the group. There are good parking areas on the lake.

9. Technical description of the water part of the route.

We estimate the difficulty of obstacles for the average water level, from which we did not observe significant deviations during the rafting.

1. Upper She from the confluence of the Kurukul stream.

The length of the section is about 45 km. Net running time is no more than 5 hours. Water consumption at the beginning of the rafting is about 15 m3/km, after the confluence of the river. Karatosh about 30 m3/km. The average drop is about 7 m/km, in some areas up to 10 m/km. Almost the entire area is a continuous complex shirker.
The water level is slightly above average.

We did not go through the Ona section above the Kurukul confluence. We reviewed it during the radial exit. Rafting on catamarans at high water levels is only possible directly from the confluence of the river. Suburduk. This section is 9 km long and contains 8 obstacles. The first 4 km of the river is saturated with rubble, and there are some further down. The river flows in one channel, which runs almost all the time through the forest, the width of the river is no more than 10 m. The banks are inconvenient for mooring and removing rubble. We marked two islands. Of interest is a four-stage shift - a rapid about 3 km above Kurukul. Based on the results of the viewing, we with a light heart refused to pass the described section of the river.

Project 9l. Shivera.
It begins immediately after the confluence of the Kurukul stream. The length is about 2 km. The river is shallow, but there were few stones in our water and it was easy to walk. The passage is closer to the right side of the riverbed.
Project 10s. Shivera - Karatoshsky threshold. It begins as a rocky section just above the confluence of the large left tributary of the river. Karatosh. The mouth of the Karatosh is 4 km from the Kurukul and Ona spit. The obstacle is formed by three ridges of stones blocking the river at a distance of 7-15 m from each other, at the end of the rapid there is a clean gentle drainage of about 1 m, between the stages of rapids with shafts of about 0.5 m. In low water, maneuvering between the stones is required.
After the confluence of the Karatosh, the flow of the Ona practically doubles.
Project 11-13l. Shivers.
Our division of the site into three shivers is very arbitrary; in some descriptions there are more of them, but this does not change the essence of the matter. There are islands and some fallen trees in the channels. Some caution is required. In one of the sections, a log protruding from the rubble of the right bank blocked almost the entire flow, causing some problems for two catamarans. The other two surrounded this log.
Etc. 14s. Threshold Calib.
The threshold's landmark is a large left tributary. The river is divided by an island into two channels. The choice of channel depends on the water level. The output is slanting plums, complicated by stones. After 200 m of almost calm water, the next obstacle.
We passed on the right side.
The entire section from Kurukul to Poros. Maxim is 12 km long and can be walked in 1.5-2 hours of working time. We spent 1 hour 40 minutes on it.
Project 15t. Threshold Maxim.
The threshold needs exploration. Reconnaissance on both banks, preferably on the left. The threshold's landmarks are a sharp right turn of the riverbed; straight ahead you can see a long-term blockage. Chalka on the sandy beach on the left bank. When entering, the river is dammed with stones and narrows to 8-10 m. The main stream goes to the right. Large boulders protrude into the channel. The stream forms two discharges of approximately 1 and 1.5 m in a rocky narrowing, a slight pile-up on the right stone, then the river bed widens. Passage after the drains, going left, then along the main stream with an S-shaped maneuver between large boulders. This place is called "Snake". Then another 200 m of difficult slalom on a straight section between large rounded boulders. Insurance is ineffective. It makes sense to place signalmen on the slalom course to help determine the correct direction in the labyrinth of stones.
In our water, the slalom in the rapids was not particularly difficult, in shallower waters the rapids become technically more difficult, and in larger waters, numerous piles of rocks appeared.
There is a good parking area on the left bank below the main part of the rapids.
After reconnaissance, we took turns, without insurance, with photography and filming. Below the threshold we parked.
Etc. 16s. Shivera.
Length about 1.5 km. Reminiscent of the final part of the pores. Maksim.
Etc. 17t. 3 km cascade of shivers and shiver rapids.
The beginning of the cascade is approximately 50 m beyond the confluence of the large left tributary of the river. Arykh. In many pilots this area is described as a series of rapids. The river valley is sandwiched by mountains. Slalom among stones, shafts, plums up to 1.5 m. Constant work. The main stream is visible everywhere from the water. Intelligence is ineffective. The culminating section of the cascade (in some directions it is called the Throne rapids) is a three-stage rapid with a series of powerful drops in rocky constrictions.
In my opinion, this is the most interesting section of the upper Ona.
Etc. 18s. A difficult 2 km shiver. A zigzag channel, the main stream wanders from bank to bank. Individual plums about 1 m.
Etc. 16-18 passed immediately in the wake column. After Ave. 18 we moored for lunch on the right bank.
Etc. 19s. Local threshold.
Discharges through a ridge of stones at an easy right turn of the riverbed. The right bank is a rock wall.
Etc. 20s. Threshold Oblique gate.
Soon after the previous obstacle. The threshold is clearly visible from afar due to the difference in water level. Located after the left turn of the riverbed. Reconnaissance along any coast. Entry is a simple shift. Then the river falls at the 25th section by about 2.5 m. Four blocks in the channel create a pair of asymmetrical gates. The main jet shifts to the right. After the rapids there is a small area of ​​calm water. In large water, an additional option appears on the right. The threshold is local and is not difficult to pass. Coastal insurance can be organized, preferably from the left bank. It is recommended to take photographs. Good parking opposite the rapids on the right bank.
Etc. 21s. Threshold Mill.
Located on the left bend of the river. The riverbed is divided into two parts by a pebble island. Most of the water goes to the left, where it forms a hill of small drains, one of which is more than 1 m long. After the merger, the flow becomes swell. After the rapid there is a long stretch of calm water. There is a good parking lot on the left bank. The main stream is free of protruding rocks, which, combined with the long stretch of calm water after the rapid, makes it suitable for self-rafting and rescue training.
Etc. 19-21 passed immediately in the wake column. Below Ave. 21 we parked.
Etc. 22t. Threshold Overkill.
In front of the threshold there is a simple section of fast current, you can consider it like a rift.
The landmark for approaching the rapid is a pebble island in the middle of the river. The river is divided into two branches, a passage on the right, then a large lonely stone standing in the riverbed. The threshold is located after a sharp right turn in the riverbed. Reconnaissance along the left bank. The riverbed is blocked by large boulders. Entering the threshold is a difficult slalom. Next is a series of drains up to 1.5 m in a straight section, shafts, barrels, then a section of a simple shir.
After reconnaissance, we took turns taking photographs and filming.
Etc. 23t. Threshold Bull.
Located on a straight section, it follows directly after the previous obstacle and resembles it in character. Reconnaissance along the left bank. In the first third of the rapids there is a large black above-water stone in the riverbed. Plums, barrels, shafts, a lot of stones in the riverbed.
Etc. 24s. Shivera.
Complex zigzag shiver. Length about 1 km. The main stream repeatedly passes from one bank to the other.
Etc. 25-27l. Shivers.
Etc. 23-27 passed immediately in the wake column.
Etc. 28s. Threshold (so-called Khlestovsky clamp).
Located on a fairly sharp right turn. The right bank is a pebble shoal. The main stream goes to the left, where after a short section of the rift it forms a drain with a pile on the stones under the rocky wall of the left bank. It is very easy to avoid the pile-up. After draining the shafts. Further on there is a long straight section of almost calm water, the river valley widens somewhat.
They scouted along the right bank.
Etc. 29l. Shivera.
Length more than 2 km. Directly ahead is a characteristic two-headed peak. A tributary enters on the left. Further, the speed of the river slows down, there is a sharp left turn ahead, and a steep drop in the river is visible. These are the landmarks for the next obstacle.
Etc. 30t. Bobsleigh Threshold (Three Stage).
A long rapid that requires exploration. After Ave. 17, the most serious obstacle is the upper Ona. It has three distinct steps. Reconnaissance on both banks, more convenient on the left bank. The rapid begins after the left turn of the riverbed. Entering the threshold is simple. The first stage is a powerful straight drain over 1.5 m, in its right, steeper part, passing next to a huge layered block - a suitcase. An unpleasant stone sticks out into the shallower water on the left side of the channel after draining. After the first step it is easy to moor on the left bank. The second stage is poured and semi-drenched slabs in the rock corridor, drains, local barrels, and even whirlpools in our water. Passage along the main stream. The third step ends with an oblique gate about 6 m wide, a pile-up on the right block. Drain about 1.5 m.
We went through the first stage separately with reconnaissance, then the second and third stages together. The first catamaran sailed without insurance, the rest with insurance from the water.
Etc. 31-33l. Shivers.
Sufficiently powerful shifters with a shaft up to 1.5 m.
Etc. 34s. Shivera is a threshold.
In the middle of the river there is shallow water (a pebble bank opens across shallower water); after the right and left streams combine, there is a rock on the right bank. There are numerous stones in the riverbed. Walk closer to the right bank.
Etc. 35-39l. Shivers.
The power of the shiver gradually decreases. There are robberies and combs along the banks.
Obstacles 31-39 passed immediately.

2. Average She.

The length of the section is more than 70 km. The river becomes much more powerful after the large tributaries - Karasuma and Bol - flow into it. She. The water flow at the end of the section exceeds 100 m3/s. The width of the river is up to 100 m. The area is characterized by long reaches.
The water level during passage is at the beginning above average, gradually dropping to average.
There are three villages on the site: Bol. He, Kubayka (on the right bank) and M. Anzas (on the left).

Etc. 40s. Rubble.
An area of ​​robbery with rubble in canals with a length of 4-5 km. Located approximately 2 hours from Pore. Bobsled. Sharp expansion of the valley. The nature of the blockages changes from year to year, so it makes no sense to give any recommendations on the choice of channel. Extreme caution and constant readiness for mooring are required. We were forced to navigate around two blind obstructions along the bank (there was no free channel). The first blockage was located after a sharp left turn, drifting along the left bank. Then the river turns sharply to the right again; at the turn, a strongly inclined spruce tree stuck out from the left bank, under which most of the stream went. Immediately after the fir tree, we landed on the right bank of the pebble island and looked through the next rubble. It blocked both channels, carrying around the island with partial “rafting” along a long puddle and further rafting along the right channel, at the end of which another spruce lay above the water, under which there was enough space for swimming. The site ends with a wooded island, the left channel is narrow, long and winding, the passage is almost clear. At the end there was a log across the entire channel; it was possible to drive straight through it into our water (since it was submerged). The right channel is straighter, wider, for a long time it contained a blockage, now it has been partially washed away and passage is also possible.
Somewhere in this section, closer to its end, the river flows into the Ona from the left. Karasuma. Below its confluence there used to be a wooden bridge, now it has burned down, leaving only dilapidated supports.
Etc. 41-49l. Shivers and rifts.
Simple obstacles that do not require exploration.
We passed right away.
The Ak-Dovurak-Abaza highway crosses the river four times. The bridges are located at distances of approximately 1 hour, 50 minutes, 1 hour and 3.5-4 hours of running time, starting from Bolshoi On. About half an hour of rafting after the last reinforced concrete bridge, the village is located on the right bank. Kubayka. In front of it is an old wooden bridge, along which a side dirt road goes.
Average It ends shortly after the village. M. Anzas, located on the left bank less than 1.5 hours of rafting from Kubayka. The village is located in a very picturesque place. Not far from it on the left bank there is a cave in which mumiyo is mined.

3. Lower She.

The length of the section is about 25 km. Water flow at the end of the section is up to 140 m3/s. Water level: before pr. 61 - average, after pr. 61 - below average.
There are two obstacles on the site - the First and Second Big Onsky rapids. Other obstacles when rafting on catamarans do not require reconnaissance.

Etc. 50l. Shivera.
Starts approximately 30 minutes after the village. M. Anzas.
Etc. 51-55s. Shivers.
Powerful shifters with shafts up to 2 m and barrels. There are few surface stones, the line of movement is quite easy to read, so reconnaissance is not required.
The section of pr. 50-55 passed immediately in the wake column.
Etc. 56s. Threshold Dzherginskaya pit.
Landmarks: left turn of the riverbed, rocky outcrops of more than 50 m on both banks. The threshold has two stages. In some descriptions, it is divided into two obstacles, Jerga 1 and Jerga 2. There is no point in such a division and it only confuses. Chalka and reconnaissance of both steps along the left bank. Before the first step, the channel is divided into two channels by a low pebble island. The left channel is almost clean, most of the water goes to the right under the rocks of the right bank, where it forms a powerful foam pit. After this, under the right bank there are the remains of a rubble, which, apparently, was washed away recently; it appears in many directions. The foam pit is visible from the water and is easy to navigate. After this, you can moor on the sandy beach of the left bank for reconnaissance of the second stage, but if you do this, you will no longer be able to pass this stage on the right, and that’s where the most interesting thing is - a series of powerful drains with barrels on a straight section of the river, littered with large chunks. The passage on the left is quite simple.
We scouted out Avenue 56 along the left bank. We passed on the left side of the riverbed.
Etc. 57l. Shivera.
A simple, short shift, but you should remain vigilant - there is a serious threshold ahead.
Etc. 58t. The First Big Onsky Rapid.
The threshold requires exploration. It is more convenient to scout along the left bank. There are no clear landmarks, but the difference in water level in the rapids is visible from afar from the water. The bulk of the water passes in the right part of the channel through a hill of powerful pulsating shafts (some shafts are more than 3 m) and forms a powerful barrel closer to the exit. Next is a series of gradually decreasing shafts. Passing the right jet at high water levels poses a serious danger. If the water level is sufficient, it is possible to pass on the left side of the channel, bypassing the culminating part of the rapid: entering a slalom between the stones, then passing to the left of a large pouring stone through a drain of more than 1.5 m with a barrel. It was possible to drain our water directly through the stone.
After reconnaissance, we took turns on the left side, taking photographs and filming, and belaying from the water.
Etc. 59s. Shivera.
A powerful rift with a length of about 300 m. Passed by the center.
We stopped at the parking lot below the second Big Onsky rapids, moving our things there. Due to lack of time to organize insurance and filming, we refused to go through the rapids that day. The next morning, they discovered a sharp drop in the water level (by 30 cm in the morning, by another 20 cm by the middle of the day).
Etc. 60t. Second Great Onsky rapids.
The threshold requires mandatory exploration. Located after a smooth right turn of the riverbed. It is more convenient to jal on the left bank, but in this case you should not jal too close to the threshold in order to maintain the opportunity to cross the stream when entering (see below). The threshold has three distinct steps, of which the first and second are dangerous. In the first stage on the right side of the channel, part of the stream disintegrates into rocks, where there are passage options for double catamarans. The main stream on the right side passes through a row of barrels; on the far right side the passage is almost clear. Most of the jet flows to the left, where it forms a very powerful and deep cauldron of foam. In the center there is a strong pile-up on a huge pouring block. After this, the barrels are of different sizes. The passage of the first stage from the left - through a drain about 1.5 m - is relatively safe, but makes normal entry into the second stage impossible. The second stage is separated from the first by approximately 25 m of high-speed current. After this, the river is blocked by a ridge of large boulders, merging through which it forms a series of drains with powerful barrels located at different angles to each other. The power of the barrels decreases from the left bank to the right. In high water, all these barrels merge together and a continuous “white wall” is formed. The passage of the second stage in the center and to the left into our water seemed very dangerous. The third stage is a series of shafts and barrels in a straight section.
After reconnaissance, we passed the threshold on the right side alternately, with photography and filming, and with insurance from the water. Below the first stage, a shore safety line was placed from the left bank, which blocked the rapid flow after the left barrels of the first stage until approximately the middle of the riverbed. Four participants brought the catamarans to the beginning of the rapid and made a second passage, closer to the central part of the stream.
Etc. 61-63s. Shivers.
After pr. 60 they don’t make any impression at all.
Etc. 64s. Threshold Day off.
The structure resembles a smaller copy of the Great Onsky rapids. Shafts, barrels, large blocks in the riverbed. Pass on the right side, then go to the center.
Etc. 65-70l. Shivers and rifts.
Then it’s about 3 km further to the confluence with Abakan. Motor boats operate in this area.

Rafting along Abakan to Abaza lasts about 30 km. The current speed is quite high. Rafting takes from 4 to 5 hours. Obstacles on the river are rifts and weak rollers. The main danger is falling out of a fast stream into the catch. The so-called stands out. The Great Abakan Rapid is probably of interest to motor boats. The first 20 km of the banks are deserted. The places are very picturesque; there are sandy beaches along the shores. It is not forbidden to take a day’s rest on Abakan if the group has time for it.
The rafting ends at the road bridge. On the approach to it the river winds strongly. Here on the right bank there is a cave, judging by the path trodden to it, popular among the local population. Chalka at the bridge to the right bank.

10.Ensuring security.

Personal safety was ensured by each participant having a helmet, a life jacket of sufficient volume, a strop knife and a wetsuit. The group had a detailed description and location of the river. The group leader had already passed this route before, which virtually eliminated the possibility of unexpected access to key obstacles.
When moving along the river, the tactic of walking in two separate groups of 2 kata-maranas was used. Each group had a carrot and a repair kit.
During the rafting, reconnaissance of key obstacles and belay from the water were used. Sufficient qualifications of the group did not require the use of shore insurance on the upper section of the river, despite the fact that the group had them at its disposal.

The route is a weak catamaran four. The most adequate means of rafting seems to be a two-piece catamaran, but, in principle, the route can be covered on any vessel, from a kayak to large rafts. The route is quite suitable as the first 4 class route, since at normal water levels there are no five obstacles on it (except, perhaps, pr. 60). For a kayak this is route 5 k.s.

The tributaries of the Onyrr River are of interest from the point of view of sports rafting. B. He, Karatosh, Kara-suma. B. In normal water it is passable only for kayaks, but during high water it is also accessible for catamarans. In conjunction with the lower Ona, such a route is classified 3-4 class. depending on the water level. The Karatosh and Karasuma rivers are raftable from the end of April to June and are rated at 5 class. with elements 6 k.s. We seriously considered the idea of ​​drifting into the last third of the rafting section of Karatosh and rafting to the mouth, but after assessing the water level in Karatosh, we recognized it as unfeasible. On the way back on the train, we learned from a resident of Abaza that recently watermen often began to go to Karatosh in late April and early May, when sufficient water for rafting is guaranteed.

Since the walking distance to the river is relatively short, the route is accessible to kayakers and people using metal frames for their watercraft. These individuals will naturally have to make two moves. Those who are going to build frames from wood will have to run after the forest. There are no more birch trees left in the area of ​​the Kurukul and Ona arrows; they have all been cut down. We ate quite enough. We lined up 2 km below the arrow and ran up the slope behind the forest. You can go upstream of the Ona or cross to the other bank, but the latter is not always easy.

There is an alternative option for a pedestrian approach to Ona through the Sayan Pass (from 100 km of the Ak-Dovurak-Abaza highway pillar), with access to Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol and rafting along it. We have not studied this option, but for fishing lovers it has its reasons. However, the local fishing experts we met spoke with much greater enthusiasm about fishing on Lake Pozarym (25 km upstream of Karatosh).

When walking the route in sunny weather, you should keep in mind the high probability of encountering vipers. Although we didn’t see vipers on the hike described (because we went in rainy weather), on my previous visit to Ona (1997) I came across a lot of them, right on the trail.
When scheduling a trip to the upper Ona, you should budget at least 2 days, since rafting for 1 day, although possible, will be too tiring. There are trails along both banks of the Ona in this section and many good parking areas. With sufficient qualifications and a normal water level, a group can pass almost the entire section at once, with the exception, perhaps, of pores. Maksim. Any insurance other than mutual insurance from the water and active insurance with a catamaran below the threshold or a complex shiver does not seem advisable. Usually they insure from the shore after drains in the rapids Maxim, Kosye Vorota and Trekhkaskadny, but these places are not key in terms of complexity and danger and the likelihood of an accident when passing them on catamarans is not particularly high. It seems more logical to place the rescue line directly on the ship in the presence of observers on shore.
On the right bank of the Ona, not far from the confluence of the Karatosh, there is the Karatosh outpost, which operated before the annexation of Tuva to the USSR. It is not visible from the water. We were repeatedly recommended to take an excursion to the outpost.

In the area of ​​the upper section of the Ona, bears are quite common, but the likelihood of meeting them face to face is extremely low. Bears in these parts are frightened and their presence can only be determined by indirect signs, such as tracks, droppings, overturned stones and upturned bushes.
In order to preserve the local nature, which, unfortunately, has already suffered greatly from numerous tourist groups, it is highly recommended to use equipped parking lots, especially since there are quite a lot of them. Parking is available at all key obstacles.
Rafting along the middle Ona will also take at least two days. You should be very careful when passing through a section of rubble. If you approach this area in the evening and you do not have two hours of work ahead of you, you should stop. Good parking is difficult here. Basically, the situation is as follows: one of the banks is steep and not suitable for parking; a road runs along the other.

Lower It can be completed in 1 day. Good parking is located on the left bank. The large Onsky rapids, especially the second, require mandatory exploration. It is recommended to set up insurance from the water. Shore insurance with a carrot is absolutely ineffective.
Rafting along Abakan, due to its complete safety, can be carried out even at night. If the water level is low, it can take up to 5 hours.
In the event of an accident, there are possibilities for an emergency exit from the route. There is a path along both banks of the Ona; to reach the Maxim threshold it is better to use the path along the right bank. Soon after the end of the rubble area, a road approaches the river, running along the river along the entire remaining middle Ona.

If necessary, you can replenish food supplies in the villages of Bol. He and Kubayka, where there are shops. We managed to buy something in Kubayka, although we arrived there around half past six in the evening. The vodka sold there had a reasonable price, but the taste was disgusting.
It makes no sense to arrive early in Abaza, since the train leaves at 2145, and the ticket office opens only at 2100. There is absolutely nothing to do in Abaza, there is nothing to do near the bridge on the bank of Abakan, because... in more or less good weather, vacationing citizens flock there.

The group fully completed all the tasks assigned to it. All group members showed good sports and technical preparedness. As a result, despite far from ideal weather conditions, the route was completed ahead of schedule and without a single emergency.
When walking the route, we used three reports on Ona, taken from the library of Maxim Moshkov, namely the reports of the Yaroslavl group, the Saratov team (leader S.Yu. Malova) and the report of Dmitry Kuvalin. The latter can be recommended for navigation on the river, although it may suffer from excessive detail.

12. Applications.

12.1. Material support for the group.

a) Special equipment

Public equipment:

Name Quantity, pcs. Weight, kg

Double catamaran 4 10*
Bomb safety device 1 1
Carrot insurance device 2 1
Tents with lanterns and awning 2 3
Spare blades for oars 13 0.4

*The weight of catamarans is given with the clevis ends and oar blades

Total weight of group equipment: 56.2 kg

Individual equipment:

Total weight of individual equipment: 48 kg

b) Food
c) Repair kit

insulating tape
keeper tape
rubber glue
PVC glue
petrol
set of different needles
nylon threads
cotton threads
candle
scissors
pliers
steel wire
awl
fluoroplastic tape
file
thimble
whetstone
nylon fabric
rubberized fabric
rubber for patches
scotch
avisent
hacksaw
packaging of the repair kit, including a hermetic bag

Total weight of repair kit: 6 kg

d) Campfire set

Included two boilers of 8 and 5 liters, two axes, a top, a ladle and a duty hermetic bag.

Total weight of the fire set: 7 kg

d) First aid kit

The first aid kit was located in a sealed package in the flap of the backpack and had a quick, easy to unpack part.

Iodine solution 20 ml
Ammonia 20 ml
Validol 10 tab.
Cotton wool 2 packs
Elastic bandage 2 pcs.
Sterile gauze bandage 4 pcs.
Plaster bandage 2 pcs.
Bactericidal patch 20 pcs.
Adhesive plaster 2 rolls
Troxevasin 1 tube.
Analgin 40 tab.
Aspirin 40 tab.
Diphenhydramine 20 tab.
Furacilin 20 tab.
Activated carbon 40 tab.
Potassium permanganate 20 mg
Hydrogen peroxide solution 50 ml
No-shpa 10 tab.
Zinc drops 2 pack.
Analgin solution 10 amp.
Disposable syringe with needle 5 pcs.
Ethyl alcohol (medicinal) 0.2 l
Streptocide 10 tab.
Sealed packaging for first aid kit

Total weight of the first aid kit: 5 kg

f) Photo and video equipment

They turned on a video camera, a Zenit camera and some kind of soap dish.

Total weight of photo and video equipment: 4 kg

g) Personal belongings

Included a backpack, sleeping bag, polyurethane foam mat, clothing, hygiene items, etc. The average weight per person is approximately 8 kg.

Total weight of personal items: 64 kg

h) Food

Due to the loss of some participants from the group at the last moment, the amount of food taken with them turned out to be very large and corresponded to 1000 grams per day per person.

Total food weight: 95 kg.

Total weight taken by the group on the route: 285 kg

Maximum load per man: 47 kg

12.3. Photos

Unfortunately, we do not have photographs from the walking part of the route and the radial exit to the lake. The only (albeit quite significant) evidence in favor of the fact that we actually visited the places described in the route is the video film we shot.

12.4. Route r. She

The river profile is borrowed from the report of the Saratov tourist club (see in the Moshkovskaya library). The division and numbering of obstacles have been slightly changed based on my own impressions.




(approximate location scale 1.3 km/cm)

The group chosen for the rafting was very diverse, both in age and in water experience. Some participants had extensive experience in mountain tourism, and therefore for them the “water” approach to certain moments of hiking life significantly contradicted already established stereotypes. But thanks to the fact that people who had already experienced the routes gathered together, the hike turned out to be very comfortable. I would even say, sincere.

From the road where we unloaded, a path leads through the pass to the starting point of the rafting. Just 18 km with a height gain of 300 meters and a subsequent drop of 900 meters.

We loaded the main part of the equipment onto previously hired horses, and carried the rest on ourselves.


At the beginning of the rafting, the Ona River is low-water.

Due to the lack of water in the upper reaches of the river, it was sometimes necessary to maneuver very intensively.

Sometimes jump on rocks.

But with each tributary flowing in, it became more and more full.



From the village of Bolshoi On we traveled by car a couple of tens of kilometers up along the Ona tributary of the same name.


GAZ-66 had to make two trips, but we did not dismantle the catamarans. Therefore, we were able to start rafting on the same day. Due to the daily rains, the Big On obstacles were quite full of water. The background alloy there is very interesting, reaching 3-4 k.s. in some areas.

Medium Ona ​​after Big Ona is not of serious interest until the Onskie rapids.

After the confluence of the Ona and the Abakan there are no obstacles to Abaza. We sailed, enjoying the gorgeous scenery and a good current speed, from 6 to 10 km/h.

In my opinion, the route is most interesting when the water level is above average, as it was for us. At this level, the nameless shivers on the Upper On and on the Big On become more powerful. Background rafting along them requires a certain concentration and active actions of the crew. Personally, it was in these areas that I got the most pleasure from the rafting.
In general, we got an honest “four”, without five-star thresholds, but very full of interesting obstacles.

08/15/2016 21:36 Admin

Information about the Western Sayan Mountains - Khakassia

The route runs in the Western Sayan Mountains, on the territory of the Republic of Khakassia. Western Sayan is a mountain system in the south of Siberia, stretching more than 600 km from the headwaters of Abakan to the border with the Eastern Sayan in the headwaters of the Uda and Kazyra rivers. The height of the mountains is up to 3000m. From the west, this mountainous region is limited by the Shapshalsky ridge of Eastern Altai and the Abakan ridge of the Kuznetsk Alatau. The mountains are smooth; above the taiga belt they are overgrown with grasses and lichens. River valleys with steep rocky slopes cut deeply between the gentle ridges. The area is characterized by kurumniks, rocky outcrops and rounded ridges with tundra vegetation. The highest point of the area is Peak Karagosh (2934 m).

The Republic of Khakassia is located in the southwestern part of Eastern Siberia in the left bank part of the Yenisei River basin, in the territories of the Sayan-Altai Highlands and the Khakass-Minusinsk Basin. The length from north to south is 460 km, from west to east (in the widest part) - 200 km. In the north, east and southeast, Khakassia borders with the Krasnoyarsk Territory, in the south with the Republic of Tyva, in the southwest with the Altai Republic, and in the west with the Kemerovo Region.

Rafting on the Ona and Abakan rivers

The climate here is sharply continental, with long and cold winters and short and cool (in the mountains) summers. Summer in the mountains, especially in the highlands, is characterized by unstable weather and low temperatures (the average temperature in July is 10-12C). At the same time, the temperature difference during the day in the mountains sometimes reaches 30C. Precipitation occurs mainly in summer. Their number varies greatly depending on the height of the terrain and the orientation of the slopes: from 400-500mm to 1000-1200mm on northern slopes, 400-500mm on southern slopes, and 300-350mm in intermountain basins. On the main area of ​​the mountains, snow melts only in June. But even at the end of summer you can find areas covered with snow.

On the northern slopes of the mountain are covered with pine-larch forests, on the southern slopes - mountain forest-steppes and larch forests. The largest area in the West. Sayan occupies the belt of light-coniferous taiga (up to an altitude of 2000m). Up to an altitude of 1000m there are pine trees and deciduous trees (birch, aspen). Spruce and fir grow along the shaded valleys of streams and rivers. The forests contain a large number of mushrooms and a variety of berries (honeysuckle, red and black currants, lingonberries, raspberries, blueberries, gooseberries).

The fauna is also diverse. Here you can find: bear, elk, musk deer, hare, marten, squirrel, chipmunk, etc. Of the birds, the most numerous are: nutcracker, jay, partridge, woodpecker. There are also birds of prey. Many kites fly over the river, nesting on the surrounding rocks. There are viper snakes. Typical representatives of blood-sucking insects - mosquitoes, midges - are few in number, and in well-ventilated valleys they are practically absent. However, ticks are found in bush thickets and birch forests along river valleys (their peak activity occurs in May-June).

All the rivers of the Western Sayan have a pronounced mountain character, almost all of them originate in lakes, mainly of glacial origin: tarns, moraine-dammed lakes or formed by mountain landslides. In the upper reaches of the rivers, the water temperature stays below 10 degrees all summer, only in Abakan the water is warmer - up to 20 degrees. All Sayan rivers belong to the Yenisei basin.

The main rivers of the Western Sayan include: Abakan, Ona, Kantegir, Alash, Khemchik. All of them are fed by snow and rain and are available for rafting from June to the first half of September. The river regime is characterized by high spring floods and summer low water periods, interrupted during the summer by rain floods, during which the water rises in a few hours and falls in 2-3 days. The water flow during a flood can exceed the maximum flow of the spring flood by several times.

Traditional tourist routes located in Western Sayan include rafting on the Bolshoi Abakan, Maly Abakan, Abakan, One, Kantegir, Alash, and Khemchik rivers. Of these rivers, the Ona and Kantegir are of greatest interest. Due to the construction of the Sayano-Shushenskaya hydroelectric power station, the lower part of Kantegir with the most interesting rapids is flooded, which significantly reduces the sporting advantages of this route.

Ona River- the right tributary of the Abakan of the first order, originates from lakes Ulug-Mungash-Khol and Pichi-Mungash-Khol on the slopes of the Pozarym-Taigazy ridge. Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol was formed by a giant mountain collapse. It flows mostly in a meridional direction to the north between the Monysh and Kuzuk ridges, and mostly flows in the Tashtypsky district of the Republic of Khakassia. The route runs in such a way that the Abaza - Ak-Dovurak route runs parallel to the Ona River, and in the middle part of the water section of the route, for almost 40 km, the route runs along the river bank. There are two villages in this area - Bolshoi On (currently abandoned) and Kubayka. 15 families of local residents live in Kubayka, and there are 2 new tourist centers. The camp sites have a diesel power station, and you can negotiate for a reasonable fee to recharge the batteries for your video camera. We even saw brand new satellite dishes. There is no direct telephone connection from the village. In Kubayka there is a store with a modest range of products. You can leave some of the food in Kubayka, thereby lightening the weight of the backpacks on foot. The group from the city of Domodedovo, walking ahead of us, did exactly this. From them we learned that, theoretically, it was even possible to hire horses in Kubayka for transportation to the Ona.

Rafting on the Ona and Abakan rivers

Description: Abakan - is a left tributary of the Yenisei and flows through Khakassia and the Krasnoyarsk Territory. The Abakan River is rightfully considered one of the most picturesque and beautiful rivers; its banks are very diverse. From deep dark coniferous taiga to rocky cliffs, sometimes with sandy beaches. But the main glory and uniqueness of the river was brought by two attractions, namely, the settlements of the Old Believers, of which only Agafya Lykova has survived to this day, and the unique miraculous radon spring “Hot Key” located nearby. But the Abakan River is known not only for these advantages; all lovers of Siberian fishing have long known about the wealth of this river in delicious river fish.
We recommend this tour to romantics, fishermen, in a word, to all lovers of real nature!

Rafting on the Ona and Abakan rivers

Report on a water hiking trip of the 4th category of difficulty along the Ona and Abakan rivers (Khakassia, Western Sayan) (08/04/2006 - 08/23/2006)

Drop-in and drop-out

The starting point of the route can be either the capital of Khakassia, Abakan or Abaza. You can get to Abakan by direct train or plane from Moscow. You can get to Abaza by train either from Abakan or Novokuznetsk. If you have a goal to save time, you can act in several ways. Plane to Krasnoyarsk + train to Abakan. Plane to Novokuznetsk + train to Abaza. More original options are also possible, due to the availability of seasonal discounts from airlines. A transfer option with a minimum cost is a direct train from Moscow (the journey takes about 73 hours every day, the cost of a reserved seat ticket is about 2800 rubles).

The transfer, and, even more so, the drop to Ona from Abaza is straightforward and does not pose any difficulty. They are associated with movement along the federal highway A161 Ak-Dovurak - Abaza, called the Western Sayan Highway. The road is in relatively good condition, at least up to the Sayan Pass. There aren’t that many cars walking along it, but they do. First of all, these are fuel tankers supplying fuel to western Tuva. Both in Abakan and Abaza, it is easy to find transport that will take you directly to the cherished 105 km of the highway. We acted not optimally in terms of money, but optimally in terms of time, namely, we agreed in advance with the well-known company "Rodnik" from the city of Abaza. This company offers horseback transportation to Ona and various tourist tours (for hunters, fishermen, cyclists, etc.). Company coordinates: 662750 Khakassia, Abaza, post office box 51 st. Filatova, 8-1, tel./fax 2-32-81 (no automatic long-distance communication), e-mail [email protected], [email protected].

Places for emergency descent are also obvious - they begin after the Ona arrow with B.On and before Kubayka. The transfer from Abaza to Abakan is also elementary. If convenient, we use the train. Or we negotiate with Rodnik - they asked us for 2200 rubles. Or we go by minibus - they charged us 450 rubles. The route takes about 3 hours. Minibuses leave from the Bus Station every hour.

Description of the walking part

The walking part is classic - from the 105 km post we move along a well-trodden path through a swamp to a power line support in the form of a candle. After which we wander B. He and move to the left cape of the cedar forest. There is a parking lot there, but there is not enough firewood and it is a bit of a walk to get water from Bolshoi. After which the trail, gaining a slope, climbs to the Kohosh pass (2150). On it are the remains of a tour (a pile of stones), and a small trash heap of cans and rags. We walked in one walk - the initial weight of each was exactly 30 kg. We are far from having a strong physique, but we climbed the pass quite easily in 1.5 hours, counting the time for stops. The weather was very damp, it was constantly drizzling, which is very difficult on the descent, since you can easily slip - you have to be extremely careful. It is advisable to use staves. The descent to Kurukul takes about 1 hour. We walked relatively slowly - mainly according to the calculation: light walking 30 minutes + 10 minutes rest. Several times, mostly on the second day, we walked for 40 minutes and rested for 20. The first night was after the first big ford across the Kurukul - somewhere in the middle of the journey. The trail at that point crosses the Kurukul LB for the first time. The place there is nice - red currants grow, and there are wild gooseberries. Immediately after the 4th and last ford of Kurukul, when the trail finally turns to PB, after a small right tributary there is a hut. Near it is a good place to spend the night. Behind it are two unpleasant screes. 1.5 - 2 km from Ona, across the path there is a log with a corresponding inscription. As a result, having started the pawn 8.08 at 11:00, we finished 9.08 at 15:00. We spent approximately 7-7.5 hours on the pawn. We took our time and rested, so we weren’t too tired. We set up camp 300m above the mouth of the Kurukul in a small clearing. There they assembled the frame, inflated the cylinders, after which all the things were transferred to the mouth of the Kurukul to a large clearing.

The total distance of the walking part, according to our kilometer map, is about 20 km. However, upon returning home, with the help of OziExplorer and the General Staff topographic map at a scale of 1:200000, I received a distance of 23.9 km!

No problems with orientation on the pawn can arise, because It is almost impossible to lose the trail. The route is also popular among walking groups - we met 4 groups walking or returning from Lake Pozarym (at the source of the Karatosh River). Fishermen also walk along the path.

Water part (High water)

1. Upper She

The mouth of the Kurukul river - B.On village - 55-57 km

Slope - 4.5 - 11.7 m/km

Flow at the mouth of the Kurukul River - 15m3/sec

Flow at the mouth of the Karatosh river - 30m3/sec

Flow rate at B.On settlement - 100m3/sec

Until then. "Maxim" obstacles do not exceed 3 k.s., you can go straight away. Actually, we did just that after obstacle No. 2 - the Karatoshsky rapids. In the section after Maxim, the power and complexity of the obstacles increase. The ability to pass without viewing depends on the experience of the group and the type of vessels. The pattern of obstacles varies greatly depending on the water level. In deep water, the speed of the current increases and the jig becomes more difficult (especially for large vessels). In low water the line of movement becomes much more difficult due to the abundance of stones in the riverbed. The division into obstacles is quite arbitrary - often the rapids and shivers are multi-stage, the distance between them is small. Shivers after pores. “Three-stage” is much more powerful than the shiver in the upper reaches of the Ona, but also does not exceed 3 k.s.

1. Shallow shift with a uniform slope, shaft up to 0.5 m. The river width is 7-12m, speed is 2-2.5m/sec. Length approx. 3km. Behind the rift, the Karatosh River flows into two channels on the left. Pile on the PB bomb. There is parking at LB. Behind the tributary is the beginning of prep. No. 2

(Karatosh - the left tributary of the Ona - very fishy)

2. Karatoshskaya shivera-threshold. 80m. A big drop, large stones all over the riverbed, a passage in the center. Several drains of 0.5-0.6 m each. If necessary, reconnaissance is possible on both banks.

We arrived at the threshold in the evening in heavy rain. We decided to stand at a good parking spot on the LB, and carry out the culmination of the rapid along the LB. In principle, the threshold is simple, but on the first day I didn’t want to risk it with just one crew. The wiring took exactly 5 minutes.


3. Shivera 2 km (to Karatoshskaya outpost). Lots of large stones. Shaft up to 0.5 m, flow speed 3 m/sec. Karatoshskaya outpost - several dilapidated buildings on the PB, poorly visible from the water.

4. Shivera with robberies. Blockages are possible in some channels.

5. Shivera. There is a small drain behind the island. Immediately after the drain there is a right tributary.

6. A simple shiver approx. long. 3km.

7. Shivera on LP. At the beginning of the turn, the PB rock is visible straight ahead.

8. Threshold (immediately after step 7). A ridge of stones at the LB. Weak pressure to the rock PB. In front of the threshold on the LB there is a sandbank with the remains of a long-term crease. You can go without reconnaissance.

9. Shivera of medium difficulty. Length 1.5 km

Obstacles 3-9 went straight away.

10. Threshold "Caliber". A large island covered with forest. At the beginning of the left channel, the left tributary flows in. The right duct is small. On the left there is a simple rift ending with a 1m drain through a ridge of stones with narrow passages. The main stream falls on the central stone. View by LB (from inflow). After the confluence of the channel there is a reach of 200m. Directly ahead of the LB there is a long-term obstruction and a stone island. The left duct is shallow, the right one is pore. "Maksim".

Reconnaissance - along the LB through a large old rubble. The passage was obvious - the main thing was to get exactly into the main drain. We passed easily. After that, we made a significant mistake, confident in our abilities - we rushed forward without looking and stopped only at the pores. 19 - Oblique gate. We went through the obstacles very confidently for general reasons, but in the end we were very tired. At the Diagon Gate - lunch on the LB.

11. Threshold "Maxim" (!). Reconnaissance on LB, PB rocky. At the narrowing of the right channel (7-8 m wide) there is a powerful waterfall-type drain 1-1.2 m high, followed by a foam boiler. (For high water there are three drains of 0.6 m each). Then a reach of 20-25m.

12. Threshold "Snake". Opposite the rocky wall of the PB there is a small pile of blocks on the LB. The right side of the channel is blocked by a ridge of large flood slabs. Further drains through groups of large stones with narrow passages. Next is a shiver with an abundance of stones and less powerful plums. The length of the pores. about 300m. The obstacle ends at the confluence of a small right tributary, on the bank of which there is a hut. There is a good parking lot on the LB opposite the tributary.

13. To the left tributary of the Aryl there is a 1.5 km rift of average difficulty, there is one noticeable drainage. 50m after the mouth of the Aryl, the cascade begins - one of the most difficult and dangerous sections of the river.

14. First threshold of the cascade. It starts with a simple shift. Next, the jet collects at the PB and falls to the left through a semi-underwater rock, forming a cauldron. Narrow passage at the LB.

15. Drains 0.5-0.8 m through ridges of stones, there are passages along clean tongues. Next, head to the right bank for reconnaissance at points 16 and 17.

16. Water collects in a clearly defined stream 4-5 m wide at the LB. In practice, it is a gutter with a large slope and shafts. Length 50-70m. Several drains 0.7-0.9 m. The left bank is steep and rocky. View by PB. The PP of the jet ends in the channel and drains 1m through a sharp “tooth”.

17. Local channel PP. The LP is visible ahead. Threshold ("Orlandina", "Tron")(!), length 50-60m. There are a lot of stones on the bank and in the river, the slope increases and a series of steps are formed. At the entrance there are two drains of 0.9-1 m. After 15-20 m there is a drain of 0.7 m, after which the stream hits a protruding pointed stone on the left. Next is a simple press to the PB boom. Behind the boom the stream disintegrates, forming many drains between the stones. View by LB. There is a parking space on the LB shelf.

18. For 2 km there is a section of powerful rifts with shafts and drains. At the end of the site there is a small drain and a drain with a small island overgrown with low bushes. Behind the island there is a reach of 20-30 m and two small ridges of stones on the river line. Chalka on the left around the bend to view item 19.

19. Threshold "Slanting Gate" (!). Landmarks: the confluence of the left steep tributary and almost opposite the right one. The threshold begins with a simple shift on the LP. Then the river sharply narrows, forming two drains in the center and a pile on the central stone. The bulk of the water flows through the left drain, pouring onto the slab at the LB. The total difference is 2.5-3m. LB has huge blocks behind which there are good catches, convenient for organizing belay.

Remembering that our credo is caution and no one will save us, the culmination of the Diagon Gate was held along the LB, combining it with lunch. Spent about 15 minutes. Until the climax of time 23 "Bull" we walked again without watching and quite easily.

21. Threshold at the PP. At the entrance, the river splits into two branches. The right duct is shallow (but passable), the main stream flows along the left duct. At the end of the channel there is a sharp drop in height (about 1.5 m) with two horseshoe-shaped drains. Next on the straight section there are shafts. Walk through the center. Reconnaissance along the left bank.

22. The river makes an easy L, then PP within the valley. From point 21 about 300m. The threshold at the PP is quite difficult. Viewing is possible from both banks, but it is more convenient from the P. At the entrance there are two ridges of stones with narrow passages between them, a narrow drain at the PB about 1 m high. After 5m there is a rock on the right, the stream goes to the LB. Further, at the narrowing of the channel, there is a hill with shafts up to 1 m and drains

23. Almost immediately after point 22, a long, about 800 m, obstacle “Bull” begins with several pronounced drops and rift sections between them. Three stages can be distinguished, with high-flow areas between them. After the first step, the Bull itself is a stone in the center of the riverbed, resembling the outline of a bull. The line of movement is complex. PB reconnaissance. After the obstacle there is a reach of 50m.

Rafting on the Ona and Abakan rivers

At the culmination of rapid 23 there was a precarious narrow passage along the PB with a jump over two large rainfalls. We decided not to risk it, started at the PB in front of them and guided them through, spending about 10 minutes. After that we walked without reconnaissance until 26 inclusive. After it - a chalka in the catch on the PB near the bathhouse frame. End of the second floating day

24 - 25. Powerful shivers with plums. The first is divided by the island into two channels. The left one is shallow, but passable; at the exit from the right one there are several ridges of stones. After the confluence of the channels there is quite a strong pile-up on the LB and a powerful barrel on the left side of the channel. The second shifter is located on a straight section.

26. Threshold-clamp on KrPP. In the first third of the rapid there is a left tributary. Before pressing a ridge of stones. After pressing, the PB has a convenient catch for insurance. There is a good parking place at PB.

27. Straight section 2-2.5 km. Current speed is 10 km/h. A straight double-headed top, at the bottom of which there is a simple pressure to the LB. Behind it is a simple roll, in front you can see the three-headed peak on the PB. After the next LP it's time. "Three-stage." There is a small tributary on the right side. Chalka on the LB before the turn. Viewing from PB is possible.

After shivers 27 - we started right before the PP at the PB - reconnaissance of the 1st and 2nd stages of threshold 28.

28. The "Three-stage" ("Bobsled") rapid (!) begins immediately after the LP. Formed by large blocks with a diameter

6-7 m. The first step is a steep drop of 1.5 m, behind it is a hole, into deep water there is a narrow passage at the LB. Then a light pile on the stone in the center of the channel, and then a pile on the LB. Next, there is the opportunity to start to organize insurance. After 50-60m, the second stage is about 130 m long. A clean, carrying discharge of 0.7-1 m with a powerful shaft, followed by shafts of about

70-80 cm. The step goes into the third part without clear divisions. The third stage is a drain between two rock blocks, with a slab at the exit. In the center is a large stone protruding from the water. There's a reach beyond the threshold. Exploration is possible along any shore. Parking space below the threshold at PB.

Stages 1 and 2 were easy, after which the chuck in a small catch just before stage 3 on the LB. Since there is a section of non-dangerous rapids further on, there was no point in taking risks. There was plenty of time, so we carried out the 3rd step along the LB. Spent about 15 minutes on this.

Shivers to B. She walked straight away, avoiding large waves. The shivers are very nice. The passage is obvious everywhere from the water, there is enough time to maneuver. Several shivers passed by telemark - gracefully moving away from the swells along the shore, bypassing the main stream.

29-38. Area of ​​powerful shivers. You can go without reconnaissance. At the end of the section, a large island divides the river into two channels, the right one is deeper. Attention: danger of blind debris in the channels!

39. The island divides the river into two channels. The left main duct makes the PP. When the channels merge, the channel is blocked by flood slabs. Drain about 0.7 m.

(Ona River at night)

40. Robberies near the mouth of the Karasuma River. There are blind blockages in the channels, which are very dangerous due to the high flow speed

It is advisable to select the main channels in the area of ​​robbery. Then there is less chance of getting into a dead end. In our water we came across one log-barrier across the entire channel (5m run-out) and one sawn log (5m run-through). The speed of the current in the channels is quite high, so you should not lose vigilance and do not accelerate further. Although we did not see any dangerous rubble. Probably, if they exist, they are in remote channels. Their location and configuration are changed by floods. In this area, it is not so much the rubble that is dangerous as the pressure on old creases - you need to get away from them in a timely manner.

(Big Onsky threshold)

2. Average She.

Village B.On - village M. Anzas - 55-57 km

Slope - 2.7 - 5.8m/km

Flow rate at B.On settlement - 100 m3/sec

Flow at M. Anzas - 120 m3/sec

41-50. Shivers and light clamps, sometimes with shafts up to 1 m. All obstacles of the middle Ona are passed without reconnaissance. From the village of B.On to the village of Kubayka the Ak-Dovurak - Abaza highway runs along the river. There are few parking spaces. There is a parking lot after the third concrete bridge on the PB after the power line at the confluence of the right tributary Big Kalgan. In the village of Kubayka there is an unfinished wooden bridge and an iron cable near the bridge. In front of M. Anzas there is a water-measuring post - a cable over the river. In M. Anzas there is a confluence of a large left and almost opposite a right tributary. After M. Anzas the beginning of the Lower Ona section.

(Tree of Watermen)

3. Lower She.

Village M. Anzas - mouth - 22 km

Incline - 4.4 - 6.9 m/km

Flow at the mouth - 140-150 m3/sec

River width - 40-70m

From the village of M. Anzas to the "Big Rapids" it is about 3 km of rafting. The landmark for the beginning of the rapids is a stream falling steeply from the LB to the PP. The river is part of a system of fairly high ridges. The length of the shiver is 500-1000m. Until por.64, all obstacles can be overcome immediately. Powerful barrels are located in the center of the riverbed; everywhere there is room for maneuver and bypass along the “sewer”. The thresholds and shivers are quite the same type. In some places, obstacles merge into one another without clear boundaries.

In the area of ​​obstacles 51 and 52 we were caught by a strong headwind! This phenomenon is extremely interesting. A strong south wind is reflected from the sides of the narrow Ona valley. His strength is such that we stood still in the shivers!!! I had to go to LB and wait it out. We had an early lunch. The wind died down only at 16:00.

51. Shivera. Shafts, rare stones with barrels. Passed without reconnaissance.

52. Shiver on a straight section of 300-400m. There are stones in the shafts. Passed without reconnaissance.

Attention: points 51-52 are not noticeable in high water!

53. Threshold at the river crossing point. Shaft up to 1.5m. Powerful barrels. Length about 100m. Inspection with PB. At high water it can be mistaken for a shivera.

This threshold was looked at according to the PB. The passage is right along the PB itself. No need to poke into the shafts in the center!

54-56. Shivers. There are stones and shafts up to 1.5 m in the riverbed. They go without reconnaissance.

57. Threshold. Powerful plums, barrels. You can go without reconnaissance.

We passed along the LB without reconnaissance

58-60. Similar to paragraphs 54-56.

61. Threshold. It starts with a shiver. The output is powerful drains, shafts, large stones.

62. Threshold with large stones in the riverbed. The output is powerful barrels.

63. Simple shifter 300-400m.

We carefully sneaked along the LB and immediately passed threshold 64. Under no circumstances should you go to the center at the 63 obstacle, then on a steep LP a powerful jet can carry you straight into the clamp and barrel of threshold 64.

64. LP. The river spills into two branches (in high water the island is flooded with water). At the confluence of the channels, the “Revun” rapid is a powerful barrel near the rocks of the PB. There is an old crease on the rocks of PB. Next is a ridge of stones and a drain. Clean pass along the LB, then moving towards the center. Opposite the barrel on the LB there is a good parking lot. After the threshold there is a small reach about 100m. You can feel the support. Chalka is in the catch at LB to view item 65.


65. The Dzharginskaya Yama rapids (!) (First Onsky) is the most difficult and dangerous rapid on Ona. Over the course of 90m, the river drops by 6-7 m. The shafts are up to 2m. The threshold consists of two steps. The threshold begins with a powerful rift. Further in the first step, in the center of the riverbed, there is a huge stone, to the right of it is a powerful drain, behind it is a huge foam pit. On the left there are narrow passages between the pouring stones. In the second stage there are powerful drains through three pouring stones on the right side of the riverbed. The main jet falls towards the PB. The passage can be carried out along the LB, or along the P, passing the second stage along the main drain. Beyond the threshold of fast currents. There is a parking space on the LB in front of the threshold. In the mountains on the LB opposite the threshold there is the “Dzharginsky failure”.

Chalka near the parking lot with a memorial tree. Reconnaissance of the entrance rift to the First Onsky threshold along the LB. After the entrance, we moored near the frame of the tourist bathhouse in front of the threshold itself. Carrying along the trail along the LB. Spent about 30 minutes on it. Reconnaissance showed that passage along the LB is almost certainly safe. However, without insurance, we considered it unnecessary to take risks in this rapid, since the still unexplored 2nd Onsky rapid was ahead. At that moment there were no other groups at the threshold, so, unfortunately, we did not go to the threshold.

66. Plot 600m. There are rocky fragments in the center of the riverbed. Shaft up to 1.5m. Along the banks there are big catches behind the rocks. Behind the LP there is a drain of up to 1m across the entire river (at the LB there is less drainage). Behind it, after 200-300m, is the “Island” threshold. You can feel the backwater, you can see a large difference in heights. Chalka on LB in a small bay.

67. Threshold "Island" (!) (Second Onsky). The second most difficult rapid on Ona. There is a large stone island in the riverbed, located closer to the PB. The right duct is shallow, the left one has a threshold. Two steps. In the first there are three powerful discharges with an interval of 15 m. The second drain is the most powerful. The height of the drains is greatest in the center of the channel. The second stage is after a fast flow of about 30m. High drainage across the entire river. In the center of the riverbed there is a stone in a drain. To the right and left of it are powerful foam boilers. The PB has a clean passage along the shafts.


The most powerful rapid on the route, in my opinion. It was easy to cross into our water at the PB and seep through the sewer. At the end of the sewer - a blockage of stones - we had to carry out the last 40m. The wiring is tight.

68. Shivera with large stones and crossroads immediately after point 67.

69. Simple shivera.

70. Threshold 500m (in high water shiver). There are many large stones in the riverbed.

(near the confluence of the Ona and Abakan)


71. Threshold "Weekend". On a straight section of the river after two left turns (from the port of Ostrov). From P and LB there are accumulations of huge boulders. Three plums with powerful barrels. Reconnaissance is possible from both banks, preferably from the PB. Ahead you can see a mountain range across the river - this is the confluence of the Ona and the Abakan.

Abakan- a powerful river with a fast current. There is quite a lot of motorboat traffic on it. There are very few parking spaces. We found a good parking lot at the PB, 5 km below the mouth of the Ona. The landmark is a huge pine tree growing on a sandy beach. The total time of rafting along Abakan is about 3 hours of leisurely rowing. Near Abaza, there is a good parking lot at the PB, 1 km above the bridge. The place is, in principle, not bad; fishermen don’t go there often. However, it is better to hide all things in the tent in advance. It is useful to catch a minibus to the bus station at the LB behind the bridge at the entrance to Abaza.

Fishing on Abakan

1. Khakassia - a country of beautiful rivers and mountains - has long attracted many tourists and fishermen, hunters and nature lovers. In the depths of this mountainous area there are healing springs and picturesque lakes. For many years my friends and I have been making fishing routes along this side. In the summer, in July-August, we take the train “Novokuznetsk - Abaza” and twelve hours later we find ourselves in the last settlement before being transferred to the river. Abakan is the main water artery of the region - a wide and swift river with amazingly clear water. We go up along Abakan on a motorboat as much as possible, or rather, how much time the team has for rafting. As a rule, it is 7-10 days. Having climbed a hundred kilometers, we set up camp and devote the first tourist evening to enjoying the taiga and the beauty of the water rapids. I call this moment “with the date.” If possible - and without fail - the first fish soup is boiled, a glass of health and a glass for good luck are drunk, a little burnt is splashed into the fire - a gift to the local gods, and everyone goes to the tent to rest. The first night everyone sleeps as much as they can. After a grueling climb on the motor, the first day of vacation - and the like - you can sleep to your heart's content. Many days of long-awaited rafting and fishing lie ahead.

Our vessel is an inflatable multi-person raft, a special unsinkable boat that is comfortable and easy to sail through fairly rough water. We fish directly from the boat or from the shore at short stops. We dock, everyone goes ashore and casts their spinning rods. Fishing is only sport fishing: with spoons or flies. The boatswain (all positions on a rafting trip are assigned in advance) starts the gas kettle, brews strong coffee, and enjoys a camp snack with a sausage and a couple of drops of cognac. Until the evening we eat dry meat or leftover fried fish “from yesterday.”

The local population - Khakassians - are friendly and quite welcoming people. Salt, matches, bread will always be given without payment, upon request. In the taiga there is only one law: man is friend to man. If necessary, they can exchange fish for vodka. In recent years, there has been a lot of inspection on the river, transport - GIMS - and environmental protection. Serious comrades, armed like our traffic cops, do not “decide” on the spot. If you violated it, you will be fined in full.

There is a lot of driftwood and twigs on the banks, but there are no problems with firewood. Just in case, we take a chainsaw with us: cut down a block of wood for a seat, clear a clearing for a tent. Fishing rule: stops are made “on the fish,” that is, where there are good places for fishing. Therefore, the camp can be set up under a rock, in the bushes, on a slope, anywhere - the main thing is that it bites. At a good anchorage you can even catch taimen at night. Officially, taimen fishing is completely prohibited. The topic is delicate, but which of the real fishermen can resist the temptation to catch the Master? Especially if he might get caught by accident? I think that everyone decides for themselves, according to their own conscience.

About the bears. During rafting, it is necessary to take into account that “there are them in the taiga.” I do not recommend rafting along the narrow and shallow branches of the river. Bears often come to the islands to buy berries, and in the summer, mothers with cubs, frightened by your noise, pose a serious danger. The bear cub will rush to the nearest cedar tree, and the she-bear will watch you through the bushes and scratch her claws on the pebbles. The sensations are not the most pleasant, considering that the channels are only 10-20 meters wide. Game wardens say the sound of metal on metal can scare away bears. Last year in the fall, when settling down for the night, we tied a bunch of tin cans behind the tent and pulled the rope at any suspicious rustle. I don’t know how it affected the bears, but it helped calm our nerves.

The main object of rafting fishing is grayling. The fish is delicious - it doesn’t matter if it’s fish soup or fried. Each team member has his own signature recipe. Smoked grayling tastes best. The meat of this fish is quite tender, and in brine grayling loses its taste over time, so we don’t catch a lot of it for future use. It is fashionable to make heh from grayling with onions and vinegar right on the shore. But it's dangerous. In 2007, we came across a professor on the river who was studying this fish. And he said that people began to travel to Abakan with their nets and thus brought in infections from other rivers. Whatever one may say, you need to be more careful with nature. We are harming ourselves, it turns out.

You swim, there is such beauty all around that you can forget about fishing. The mountains are sharp, like shark teeth, young, and stand high. It seems like the kurumniks just crumbled yesterday. Lots of burning. It’s understandable: it’s close to the sky, lightning strikes straight into the pines. The beauty of the river is mesmerizing. It seems like you are floating on crystal. The bottom can be seen for many meters around. If you put your hand in the water overboard, it will ache from the cold. In the summer it’s hot, we sunbathe, but we prefer to rinse out of a mug. An icy river.

Grayling feeds mainly on insects. We catch it with special flies. Flies are cast with a spinning rod using a float. Fishing is extremely interesting: bites happen before your eyes. A splash - and a strong fish jerks the tackle. You come across a lenok - you miss the locals. We catch Lenka with spoons. Swedish spinners “Mugap”. Lenok, as a rule, stands in quiet places and lives up to its name. Also a very beautiful fish. And delicious.

Lenok and taimen belong to the noble salmon family.

2. Repeatedly I spent my vacation with my Abakan friend Sergei Ivanovich on the mountain taiga rivers Sayan. Each time we tried to get as far as possible from populated areas, plotting our route among the remote, uninhabited taiga.

So it was this time. We have just returned to Abakan from a tributary of the Yenisei - the harsh and difficult-to-pass Kantegir, where we had a good rest and had great fun fishing for grayling. However, I failed in catching lenok and taimen: they did not like my heavy, oscillating spoons. The conversation turned to this when my old friend Pavel Ivanovich came to see Sergei Ivanovich.

“The problem is fixable,” he said. — I have a few days left from my vacation, and if you want, you can catch lenok and taimen not far from the city, in the lower reaches of the Abakan River. At first I doubted the success of such an enterprise, but from further conversation I realized that Pavel Ivanovich was an experienced fisherman and had a lot to learn from him. I was scheduled to leave for Moscow in five days, and I decided that it was really better to see once than to hear a hundred times.

The left tributary of the Yenisei, Abakan, is formed from the merger of two Abakans - Big and Small. Its upper course is a typical mountain taiga river, making its way through rifts and rapids among the spurs of the Western Sayan and Abakan ridges. I have been here before, and the large, handsome graylings with a lilac tint have not yet faded from my memory. Below Abaza, the river valley widens and passes into the Minusinsk depression. Abakan branches into many channels and branches, the slope of the river decreases, and the flow slows down somewhat. Calm wide reaches alternate with fast riffles and narrow rushing channels.

At dawn we inflated our boats, prepared our spinning rods and pushed off from the shore. The current picked up our light boats and carried us down. You need to get used to fishing with a spinning rod from a rubber boat moving in a fast current. This kind of fishing is very sporty, exciting and requires a certain stamina, quick reaction and dexterity. It is necessary to constantly control the nimble boat - either move from one bank to another to fish attractive places, then turn the boat for easy casting, or go around rubble and shoals. You don’t immediately acquire such skills; you don’t always have time to throw the spoon in time or row it to the right place, so on the first day I only managed to catch lenka and whitefish. Pavel Ivanovich was doing much better, and he did not skimp on revealing his “secrets” to me. His lessons were not in vain.

Our spinning rods were equipped with small, lightweight spinners such as “Baikal”, “Okunevaya”, “Universalka”. We sometimes wound a red thread around the forend of the tees. White spoons turned out to be significantly more catchy than yellow ones. A heavy cone-shaped sinker was tied to a fishing line with a diameter of 0.5-0.6 mm at a distance of one meter from the spoon on a separate short leash. The bottom, especially near the coast, is heavily snagged, so hooks very often occur - either with a spoon or with a sinker. With such a rig, in this case, in a fast current, you only lose what you got hooked on. When caught on a stretch, sometimes it is possible to smoothly stop the boat, pull it along the line and save the spoon or sinker. In three days I lost about two dozen spinners and loads, and already on the second day of fishing I became dependent on Pavel Ivanovich. He left no less at the bottom of Abakan. Casting has to be done from an awkward position, sitting, so a one-handed short spinning rod is better than a long one. It is simply ineffective to value here. It is necessary to determine on the move the expected location of the fish, row up to it and fish the intended area. So you have to keep your eyes open and work almost continuously as news.

Taimen and lenok are found mainly under the discharges of rifts, on the grooves of two OR sin converging branches or discharges, in catches of the main stream formed by protruding capes or trees that have fallen into the water from a steep bank, at the confluence of tributaries or channels with the main channel. Such places are not always accessible from the shore, and the advantages of fishing from a boat here are obvious, and since it is important to approach the fish silently, you should prefer a rubber boat to a regular one. Most often, my grips were observed in the downstream part of the catch, where the steep bank overgrown with trees turned into a pebble spit. These catches are small in size, and it is important to hit them accurately. Several times I was “lucky” to land a spoon instead of a target on shore bushes hanging over the water. Casting should be done after the boat has passed the intended point - then the spoon goes with the flow when reeling in, the time it spends in the water increases, and landing fish becomes easier.

The grip of the small taimen is blunt and resembles another hold; the lenok takes it more sharply. At the beginning of fishing, they go relatively calmly, but near the boat they begin to go wild, and here it is better to use a landing net, although the low sides of the rubber boat make it easier to drag in the fish right on the line. Mostly lenka and taimen weighing from one to two kilograms were caught. We did not come across specimens weighing more than four kilograms.

Once at the mouth of a small river I stopped and made several casts from the shore. On the second cast to the border of the stream from the flowing river and the catch, I took about two kilograms of taimen. After falling out, I found dace in his mouth. With such a full stomach, he was tempted by the lure - apparently, gluttony and greed are indeed characteristic features of this owner of the Siberian rivers.

The fast current and continuous movement (with only a short stop for lunch) brought us closer to the city. We walked 60 - 70 kilometers a day. Before our eyes, Abakan calmed down, became quieter and more respectable. After a hard day full of impressions and a fragrant fish soup, it was pleasant to sit by the fire and listen to Pavel Ivanovich’s stories. It turns out that he had long ago “infected” his wife and son with fishing. As soon as there are days free from flying, the whole family travels this route, changing only its beginning and end depending on the availability of time.

After the Uybat River flowed into Abakan, the channel moved further apart, and calm, deep reaches began to be encountered more often. The river took on a flat character. The influence of the backwater of the Krasnoyarsk hydroelectric power station dam and the new sea is already being felt here. Local residents say that a year or two ago grayling was caught here, but now it has gone up.

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SOURCES OF MATERIAL AND PHOTOS:

http://zapovednik.khakassky.ru/

http://www.skitalets.ru/water/2007/ona_seslavin/

http://www.photosight.ru/photos/3916307/

photo by Vitaly Yaroslavsky,

http://www.kuzrab.ru/

http://pro-udochka.ru/

04.08.2006 - 23.08.2006

Content:

  1. Preliminary remarks;
  2. Information about the travel area;
  3. Information about the rafting facility and participants;
  4. Drop-in and drop-out;
  5. Description of the walking part;
  6. Water part;
  7. Traffic schedule;
  8. Trek Diary;
  9. A few words about equipment;
  10. Conclusions and recommendations;
  11. Literature;

Appendix 1. Route diagrams 1:100000;
Appendix 2. Photos

This classic route of the Western Sayan was covered in relatively high water conditions by one crew on a two-seater catamaran. Despite the adventurousness of such an enterprise, our catamaran group-crew was a fully capable and very mobile unit, and had sufficient resources to super-reliably navigate a route of this level of complexity. The small number of participants requires extreme care and caution throughout the entire hike. All obstacles were passed only with full confidence in success. This tactic allowed us to complete the route without accidents or unpleasant incidents. We had to sacrifice secondary functions, such as filming the passage of rapids and making radial exits.

2. Information about the travel area

The route runs in the Western Sayan Mountains, on the territory of the Republic of Khakassia. Western Sayan is a mountain system in the south of Siberia, stretching more than 600 km from the headwaters of Abakan to the border with the Eastern Sayan in the headwaters of the Uda and Kazyra rivers. The height of the mountains is up to 3000m. From the west, this mountainous region is limited by the Shapshalsky ridge of Eastern Altai and the Abakan ridge of the Kuznetsk Alatau. The mountains are smooth; above the taiga belt they are overgrown with grasses and lichens. River valleys with steep rocky slopes cut deeply between the gentle ridges. The area is characterized by kurumniks, rocky outcrops and rounded ridges with tundra vegetation. The highest point of the area is Peak Karagosh (2934 m).

The Republic of Khakassia is located in the southwestern part of Eastern Siberia in the left bank part of the Yenisei River basin, in the territories of the Sayan-Altai Highlands and the Khakass-Minusinsk Basin. The length from north to south is 460 km, from west to east (in the widest part) – 200 km. In the north, east and southeast, Khakassia borders on the Krasnoyarsk Territory, in the south - on the Republic of Tyva, in the southwest - on the Altai Republic, in the west - on the Kemerovo region.

The Republic of Khakassia is one of the mining regions in eastern Russia. On its territory, the extraction of iron, molybdenum, gold, coal, mineral and radon waters, non-metallic minerals: barite, bentonite, facing marbles and granites, building materials is carried out. Deposits of copper, polymetals, phosphorites, asbestos, gypsum, jade, and jade have been explored. In total, the state balance sheet for the Republic takes into account 166 deposits. The explored deposits of Khakassia contain (as a percentage of the reserves of the Russian Federation): coal - 3%, iron ores - 1%, molybdenum - 11%, barite - 27%, bentonites - 6.5%, facing stones - 13%. There are high prospects for identifying deposits of manganese, tungsten, antimony, cobalt, highly decorative facing and semi-precious stones, and industrial accumulations of hydrocarbon raw materials.

Population – 538.2 thousand people. (according to preliminary estimates as of January 1, 2006). Population density (persons per 1 sq. km.) – 8.7. In urban areas of the republic, according to preliminary estimates as of January 1, 2006, 382.5 thousand people live, which is 71% of the total population, in rural areas - 155.7 thousand people. As of September 1, 2006, the population of Abakan was 163.3 thousand people. The working population in the republic as of January 1, 2006 amounted to 346 thousand people.

Khakassia has a widely developed transport network. The length of the republic's railways is over 800 km. The Achinsk-Abakan railway line (with a branch to Chernogorsk) connects Khakassia with the Trans-Siberian Railway. Khakassia is crossed by the South Siberian Railway. highway (Taishet-Abakan-Novokuznetsk-Magnitogorsk) with branches to Abaza and Sayanogorsk.

The length of roads is 1828 km, including 1207 km with hard surfaces. The most important are the Usinsky (Abakan-Minusinsk-Kyzyl) and Abaza or Western Sayan (Abakan-Abaza-Ak-Dovurak) tracts, connecting Khakassia with the Republic of Tyva. Of the other highways, the most important are: Abakan-Chernogorsk-Shira-Uzhur, Shira-Novosyolovo, Sonsky-Tsvetnogorsk, Bograd-Ust-Erba. The city of republican subordination of Abaza, where the route along the Ona begins and ends, is connected with Abakan and Novokuznek by road and rail.

The climate here is sharply continental, with long and cold winters and short and cool (in the mountains) summers. Summer in the mountains, especially in the highlands, is characterized by unstable weather and low temperatures (the average temperature in July is 10-12C). At the same time, the temperature difference during the day in the mountains sometimes reaches 30C. Precipitation occurs mainly in summer. Their number varies greatly depending on the height of the terrain and the orientation of the slopes: from 400-500mm to 1000-1200mm on northern slopes, 400-500mm on southern slopes, and 300-350mm in intermountain basins. On the main area of ​​the mountains, snow melts only in June. But even at the end of summer you can find areas covered with snow.

On the northern slopes of the mountain are covered with pine-larch forests, on the southern slopes - mountain forest-steppes and larch forests. The largest area in the West. Sayan occupies the belt of light-coniferous taiga (up to an altitude of 2000m). Up to an altitude of 1000m there are pine trees and deciduous trees (birch, aspen). Spruce and fir grow along the shaded valleys of streams and rivers. The forests contain a large number of mushrooms and a variety of berries (honeysuckle, red and black currants, lingonberries, raspberries, blueberries, gooseberries).

The fauna is also diverse. Here you can find: bear, elk, musk deer, hare, marten, squirrel, chipmunk, etc. Of the birds, the most numerous are: nutcracker, jay, partridge, woodpecker. There are also birds of prey. Many kites fly over the river, nesting on the surrounding rocks. There are viper snakes. Typical representatives of blood-sucking insects - mosquitoes, midges - are few in number, and in well-ventilated valleys they are practically absent. However, ticks are found in bush thickets and birch forests along river valleys (their peak activity occurs in May-June).

All the rivers of the Western Sayan have a pronounced mountain character, almost all of them originate in lakes, mainly of glacial origin: tarns, moraine-dammed lakes or formed by mountain landslides. In the upper reaches of the rivers, the water temperature stays below 10 degrees all summer, only in Abakan the water is warmer - up to 20 degrees. All Sayan rivers belong to the Yenisei basin.

The main rivers of the Western Sayan include: Abakan, Ona, Kantegir, Alash, Khemchik. All of them are fed by snow and rain and are available for rafting from June to the first half of September. The river regime is characterized by high spring floods and summer low water periods, interrupted during the summer by rain floods, during which the water rises in a few hours and falls in 2-3 days. The water flow during a flood can exceed the maximum flow of the spring flood by several times.

Traditional tourist routes located in Western Sayan include rafting on the Bolshoi Abakan, Maly Abakan, Abakan, One, Kantegir, Alash, and Khemchik rivers. Of these rivers, the Ona and Kantegir are of greatest interest. Due to the construction of the Sayano-Shushenskaya hydroelectric power station, the lower part of Kantegir with the most interesting rapids is flooded, which significantly reduces the sporting advantages of this route and Onu.

The Ona River is a right tributary of the Abakan of the first order, originating from lakes Ulug-Mungash-Khol and Pichi-Mungash-Khol on the slopes of the Pozarym-Taigazy ridge. Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol was formed by a giant mountain collapse. It flows mostly in a meridional direction to the north between the Monysh and Kuzuk ridges, and mostly flows in the Tashtypsky district of the Republic of Khakassia. The route runs in such a way that the Abaza - Ak-Dovurak route runs parallel to the Ona River, and in the middle part of the water section of the route, for almost 40 km, the route runs along the river bank. There are two villages in this area - Bolshoi On (currently abandoned) and Kubayka. 15 families of local residents live in Kubayka, and there are 2 new tourist centers. The camp sites have a diesel power station, and you can negotiate for a reasonable fee to recharge the batteries for your video camera. We even saw brand new satellite dishes. There is no direct telephone connection from the village. In Kubayka there is a store with a modest range of products. You can leave some of the food in Kubayka, thereby lightening the weight of the backpacks on foot. The group from the city of Domodedovo, walking ahead of us, did exactly this. From them we learned that, theoretically, it was even possible to hire horses in Kubayka for transportation to the Ona.

Alloy medium– homemade catamaran deuce - spindle, length 4.1 m, width 1.5 m, volume 900 liters. The frame is wooden. Total weight of cylinders: 10kg.

Participants:

Seslavin Andrey Igorevich (1951) - director

Tourist experience: Snezhnaya (5u cat), Ursul (4u cat), Katun (5u cat), Ulug-Bash - Bash-Khem (5u cat), Kara-Khol - Alash (4r boat), Nyukhcha-Ileksa-Vama-Vodla (4r bid), Kargy - Kyzyl-Khem - Balktyg-Khem - Kaa-Khem (5r bid), Chuya (5u bid), Katun (5u bid), Oka (5u bid), Tsipa (5u bid), Kantegir (5u bid), Alash – Khemchik - Yenisei (4u bid)

Seslavin Andrey Andreevich (1984) - participant

Tourist experience: Chirka-Kem (3u cat), Serezha (2u cat), Msta (2u cat), Shchegrinka (2u cat), Sakmara (2u cat), Biya (2u cat), Vonga (2u kat), Shuya Yuzhnaya ( 2у cat)

4. Throwing and throwing

The starting point of the route can be either the capital of Khakassia, Abakan or Abaza. You can get to Abakan by direct train or plane from Moscow. You can get to Abaza by train either from Abakan or Novokuznetsk. If you have a goal to save time, you can act in several ways. Plane to Krasnoyarsk + train to Abakan. Plane to Novokuznetsk + train to Abaza. More original options are also possible, due to the availability of seasonal discounts from airlines. A transfer option with a minimum cost is a direct train from Moscow (the journey takes about 73 hours every day, the cost of a ticket in a reserved seat is about 2800 rubles), in the minimum time - by plane to Abakan (Vladivostok Airlines, flight time is about 4 hours, approximate cost of a ticket Moscow-Abakan-Moscow with a fixed date of about 15,000 rubles for the summer of 2006).

The transfer, and, even more so, the drop to Ona from Abaza is straightforward and does not pose any difficulty. They are associated with movement along the federal highway A161 Ak-Dovurak - Abaza, called the Western Sayan Highway. The road is in relatively good condition, at least up to the Sayan Pass. There aren’t that many cars walking along it, but they do. First of all, these are fuel tankers supplying fuel to western Tuva. Both in Abakan and Abaza, it is easy to find transport that will take you directly to the cherished 105 km of the highway. We acted not optimally in terms of money, but optimally in terms of time, namely, we agreed in advance with the well-known company "Rodnik" from the city of Abaza. This company offers horseback transportation to Ona and various tourist tours (for hunters, fishermen, cyclists, etc.). Company coordinates: 662750 Khakassia, Abaza, post office box 51 st. Filatova, 8-1, tel./fax 2-32-81 (no automatic long-distance communication), e-mail [email protected] ,[email protected] .

Because There were two of us, so they gave us a car, and for 3,700 rubles they took us to the place directly from the station in Abakan in less than 4.5 hours. A seat on a minibus to Abaza, for comparison, costs 150 rubles, although they will most likely be forced to pay for things at the rate of 150 rubles for two backpacks. Getting from Abaza to 105 km, of course, is also not difficult, but this will require spending time, which we were sorry to lose. A gazelle from Abakan to 105 km at Rodnik cost 5,300 rubles, so based on 6-8 people, it’s not that expensive. “Rodnik” fulfilled all obligations clearly. You can trust them.

Places for emergency descent are also obvious - they begin after the Ona arrow with B.On and before Kubayka. The transfer from Abaza to Abakan is also elementary. If convenient, we use the train. Or we negotiate with Rodnik - they asked us for 2200 rubles. Or we go by minibus - they charged us 450 rubles. The route takes about 3 hours. Minibuses leave from the Bus Station every hour. To get to it, it is advisable to move from the bridge along the road along Abakan along the current. On the left there will be a huge mountain of slag from the mine. It's quite a distance to walk, so it's smart to try and catch a local minibus. He drove us almost from the bridge to the bus station for 12 rubles per person.

You can use the services of a local taxi - phone 2-35-16. They charge about 1,500 rubles for delivery to Abakan, thinking that tourists do not know about the minibus. The minibus stops right next to the railway station. station in Abakan, but be careful - this is not the final stop!!!

5. Description of the walking part

The walking part is classic - from the 105 km post we move along a well-trodden path through a swamp to a power line support in the form of a candle. After which we wander B. He and move to the left cape of the cedar forest. There is a parking lot there, but there is not enough firewood and it is a bit of a walk to get water from Bolshoi. After which the trail, gaining a slope, climbs to the Kohosh pass (2150). On it are the remains of a tour (a pile of stones), and a small trash heap of cans and rags. We walked in one walk - the initial weight of each was exactly 30 kg. We are far from having a strong physique, but we climbed the pass quite easily in 1.5 hours, counting the time for stops. The weather was very damp, it was constantly drizzling, which is very difficult on the descent, since you can easily slip - you have to be extremely careful. It is advisable to use staves. The descent to Kurukul takes about 1 hour. We walked relatively slowly - mainly according to the calculation: light walking 30 minutes + 10 minutes rest. Several times, mostly on the second day, we walked for 40 minutes and rested for 20. The first night was after the first big ford across the Kurukul - somewhere in the middle of the journey. The trail at that point crosses the Kurukul LB for the first time. The place there is nice - red currants grow, and there are wild gooseberries. Immediately after the 4th and last ford of Kurukul, when the trail finally turns to PB, after a small right tributary there is a hut. Near it is a good place to spend the night. Behind it are two unpleasant screes. 1.5 - 2 km from Ona, across the path there is a log with a corresponding inscription. As a result, having started the pawn 8.08 at 11:00, we finished 9.08 at 15:00. We spent approximately 7-7.5 hours on the pawn. We took our time and rested, so we weren’t too tired. We set up camp 300m above the mouth of the Kurukul in a small clearing. There they assembled the frame, inflated the cylinders, after which all the things were transferred to the mouth of the Kurukul to a large clearing.

The total distance of the walking part, according to our kilometer map, is about 20 km. However, upon returning home, with the help of OziExplorer and the General Staff topographic map at a scale of 1:200000, I received a distance of 23.9 km!

A group from Samara followed us, they moved like a shuttle, but changed. They arrived in 2 days, although they were very tired. Under no circumstances should you try to swim along the Kurukul for the last 5 km, although it may seem very tempting. In deep water, which we found, it’s not worth doing this even on polyethylene kayaks - you’ll only lose your strength in vain.

It is useful to use small military tricks on the pawn. Firstly, before the march, you should not drink a lot - an old rule, otherwise you will sweat more and wear out your legs faster. It is useful to use various dried fruits as a snack - dried apricots are best. Still, in my opinion, due to their simplicity, it is better to go not in boots, but in neoprene - we walked barefoot - in Triton socks. Waterproof gaiters (flashlights) are useful, because... the gorge is almost always damp, and the trail goes through tall grass and bushes. It is smart to get up early on the 2nd day and walk the first 2-3 walks without breakfast. Thus, you save time - you combine rest with breakfast.

No problems with orientation on the pawn can arise, because It is almost impossible to lose the trail. The route is also popular among walking groups - we met 4 groups walking or returning from Lake Pozarym (at the source of the Karatosh River). Fishermen also walk along the path.

We saw a snake once - an ordinary viper. According to local residents, there were more midges this wet year than usual, but they did not cause any concern. They say that you can pick up a tick in the bushes - while examining each other, we only saw one during the entire hike.

To summarize: the pawn is short, but very tense. It's better to prepare for it. For us, the main load fell on the knee joints, because... most of the way is downhill. There is a considerable chance of falling and spraining your legs. In the parallel group from Novosibirsk there was one participant who suffered in exactly this way.

To complete the walking part without serious consequences, first of all, have competent and proven shoes (I used ASOLA trekking boots - I recommend) and a lifting backpack. Weight is saved by proper layout. We used the rate of 600g per person per day - it turned out to be even excessive. Swap the stew for sublimates and nuts. Cookies and crackers for dried fruits. Dates, walnuts and pine nuts are especially tasty.

For lovers of wooden frames for boats (which we are), there may be problems with finding building materials. Especially if the rolls are large. Some reports advise, in case of failure to find a tree, to go up the Ona, others down; however, it does not seem difficult to find a forest within a radius of 2 km from the arrow in half a day. You don’t have to be lazy and carry the hardware with you.

If the weather on the pawn is damp, then it is smart to immediately pack all electronic devices in herms, otherwise they can easily become damp. The watch we were wearing was temporarily out of order.

6. Water part

High water

The classic description for this route is considered to be D. Kuvalin’s, which is used by most groups. The numbering of obstacles is given according to the directions we borrowed from the 2001 report of the Perovo Tourist Club (headed by Yu. E. Broner). Cartographic material was borrowed from V. Yurin. I will give a slightly revised navigation guide from with my comments , which hereinafter are in italics.

Abbreviations used:

LP (PP) – left (right) turn
KrLP (KrPP) – sharp left (right) turn
LB (PB) – left (right) bank

1. Upper She
The mouth of the Kurukul river - B.On village - 55-57 km
Slope - 4.5 - 11.7 m/km
Discharge at the mouth of the Kurukul River - 15m 3 /sec
Discharge at the mouth of the Karatosh river - 30m 3 /sec
Flow rate at B.On settlement - 100m 3 /sec

Until then. "Maxim" obstacles do not exceed 3 k.s., you can go straight away. Actually, we did just that after obstacle No. 2 - the Karatoshsky rapids. In the section after Maxim, the power and complexity of the obstacles increase. The ability to pass without viewing depends on the experience of the group and the type of vessels. The pattern of obstacles varies greatly depending on the water level. In deep water, the speed of the current increases and the jig becomes more difficult (especially for large vessels). In low water the line of movement becomes much more difficult due to the abundance of stones in the riverbed. The division into obstacles is quite arbitrary - often the rapids and shivers are multi-stage, the distance between them is small. Shivers after pores. “Three-stage” is much more powerful than the shiver in the upper reaches of the Ona, but also does not exceed 3 k.s.

If the name of the obstacle is in bold and there is a sign, then reconnaissance is mandatory, in other cases it depends on the experience of the group.

1. Shallow shift with a uniform slope, shaft up to 0.5 m. The river width is 7-12m, speed is 2-2.5m/sec. Length approx. 3km. Behind the rift, the Karatosh River flows into two channels on the left. Pile on the PB bomb. There is parking at LB. Behind the tributary is the beginning of prep. No. 2

2. Karatoshskaya shivera-threshold. 80m. A big drop, large stones all over the riverbed, a passage in the center. Several drains of 0.5-0.6 m each. If necessary, reconnaissance is possible on both banks.

We arrived at the threshold in the evening in heavy rain. We decided to stand at a good parking spot on the LB, and carry out the culmination of the rapid along the LB. In principle, the threshold is simple, but on the first day I didn’t want to risk it with just one crew. The wiring took exactly 5 minutes.

3. Shivera 2 km (to Karatoshskaya outpost). Lots of large stones. Shaft up to 0.5 m, flow speed 3 m/sec. Karatoshskaya outpost - several dilapidated buildings on the PB, poorly visible from the water.

4. Shivera with robberies. Blockages are possible in some channels.

5. Shivera. There is a small drain behind the island. Immediately after the drain there is a right tributary.

6. A simple shiver approx. long. 3km.

7. Shivera on LP. At the beginning of the turn, the PB rock is visible straight ahead.

8. Threshold (immediately after step 7). A ridge of stones at the LB. Weak pressure to the rock PB. In front of the threshold on the LB there is a sandbank with the remains of a long-term crease. You can go without reconnaissance.

9. Shivera of medium difficulty. Length 1.5 km

Obstacles 3-9 went straight away.

10. Threshold "Caliber". A large island covered with forest. At the beginning of the left channel, the left tributary flows in. The right duct is small. On the left there is a simple rift ending with a 1m drain through a ridge of stones with narrow passages. The main stream falls on the central stone. View by LB (from inflow). After the confluence of the channel there is a reach of 200m. Directly ahead of the LB there is a long-term obstruction and a stone island. The left duct is shallow, the right one is pore. "Maksim".

Reconnaissance - along the LB through a large old rubble. The passage was obvious - the main thing was to accurately get into the main drain. We passed easily. After that, we made a significant mistake, confident in our abilities - we rushed forward without looking and stopped only at the pores. 19 – Oblique gate. We went through the obstacles very confidently for general reasons, but in the end we were very tired. At the Diagon Gate - lunch on the LB.

11. Threshold "Maxim" (!). Reconnaissance on LB, PB rocky. At the narrowing of the right channel (7-8 m wide) there is a powerful waterfall-type drain 1-1.2 m high, followed by a foam boiler. (For high water there are three drains of 0.6 m each). Then a reach of 20-25m.

12. Threshold "Snake". Opposite the rocky wall of the PB there is a small pile of blocks on the LB. The right side of the channel is blocked by a ridge of large flood slabs. Further drains through groups of large stones with narrow passages. Next is a shiver with an abundance of stones and less powerful plums. The length of the pores. about 300m. The obstacle ends at the confluence of a small right tributary, on the bank of which there is a hut. There is a good parking lot on the LB opposite the tributary.

13. To the left tributary of the Aryl there is a 1.5 km rift of average difficulty, there is one noticeable drainage. 50m after the mouth of the Aryl, the cascade begins - one of the most difficult and dangerous sections of the river.

14. First threshold of the cascade. It starts with a simple shift. Next, the jet collects at the PB and falls to the left through a semi-underwater rock, forming a cauldron. Narrow passage at the LB.

15. Drains 0.5-0.8 m through ridges of stones, there are passages along clean tongues. Next, head to the right bank for reconnaissance at points 16 and 17.

16. Water collects in a clearly defined stream 4-5 m wide at the LB. In practice, it is a gutter with a large slope and shafts. Length 50-70m. Several drains 0.7-0.9 m. The left bank is steep and rocky. View by PB. The PP of the jet ends in the channel and drains 1m through a sharp “tooth”.

17. Local channel PP. The LP is visible ahead. Threshold ("Orlandina", "Tron")(!), length 50-60m. There are a lot of stones on the bank and in the river, the slope increases and a series of steps are formed. At the entrance there are two drains of 0.9-1 m. After 15-20 m there is a drain of 0.7 m, after which the stream hits a protruding pointed stone on the left. Next is a simple press to the PB boom. Behind the boom the stream disintegrates, forming many drains between the stones. View by LB. There is a parking space on the LB shelf.

18. For 2 km there is a section of powerful rifts with shafts and drains. At the end of the site there is a small drain and a drain with a small island overgrown with low bushes. Behind the island there is a reach of 20-30 m and two small ridges of stones on the river line. Chalka on the left around the bend to view item 19.

19. Threshold "Slant Gate" (!). Landmarks: the confluence of the left steep tributary and almost opposite the right one. The threshold begins with a simple shift on the LP. Then the river sharply narrows, forming two drains in the center and a pile on the central stone. The bulk of the water flows through the left drain, pouring onto the slab at the LB. The total difference is 2.5-3m. LB has huge blocks behind which there are good catches, convenient for organizing belay.

Remembering that our credo is caution and no one will save us, the culmination of the Diagon Gate was held along the LB, combining it with lunch. Spent about 15 minutes. Until the climax of time 23 "Bull" we walked again without watching and quite easily.

21. Threshold at the PP. At the entrance, the river splits into two branches. The right duct is shallow (but passable), the main stream flows along the left duct. At the end of the channel there is a sharp drop in height (about 1.5 m) with two horseshoe-shaped drains. Next on the straight section there are shafts. Walk through the center. Reconnaissance along the left bank.

22. The river makes an easy L, then PP within the valley. From point 21 about 300m. The threshold at the PP is quite difficult. Viewing is possible from both banks, but it is more convenient from the P. At the entrance there are two ridges of stones with narrow passages between them, a narrow drain at the PB about 1 m high. After 5m there is a rock on the right, the stream goes to the LB. Further, at the narrowing of the channel, there is a hill with shafts up to 1 m and drains

23. Almost immediately after point 22 a long, about 800m, obstacle "Bull" with several pronounced plums and areas of shiver between them. Three stages can be distinguished, with high-flow areas between them. After the first step, the Bull itself is a stone in the center of the riverbed, resembling the outline of a bull. The line of movement is complex. PB reconnaissance. After the obstacle there is a reach of 50m.

At the culmination of rapid 23 there was a precarious narrow passage along the PB with a jump over two large rainfalls. We decided not to risk it, started at the PB in front of them and guided them through, spending about 10 minutes. After that we walked without reconnaissance until 26 inclusive. After it - a chalka in the catch on the PB near the frame of the bathhouse. End of the second floating day

24 - 25. Powerful shivers with plums. The first is divided by the island into two channels. The left one is shallow, but passable; at the exit from the right one there are several ridges of stones. After the confluence of the channels there is quite a strong pile-up on the LB and a powerful barrel on the left side of the channel. The second shifter is located on a straight section.

26. Threshold-clamp on KrPP. In the first third of the rapid there is a left tributary. Before pressing a ridge of stones. After pressing, the PB has a convenient catch for insurance. There is a good parking place at PB.

27. Straight section 2-2.5 km. Current speed is 10 km/h. A straight double-headed top, at the bottom of which there is a simple pressure to the LB. Behind it is a simple roll, in front you can see the three-headed peak on the PB. After the next LP it's time. "Three-stage." There is a small tributary on the right side. Chalka on the LB before the turn. Viewing from PB is possible.

After rift 27 - we started right before the PP at the PB - reconnaissance of the 1st and 2nd stages of threshold 28.

28. Threshold "Three-stage" ("Bobsled") (!) starts immediately after the LP. Formed by large blocks with a diameter

6-7 m. The first step is a steep drop of 1.5 m, behind it is a hole, into deep water there is a narrow passage at the LB. Then a light pile on the stone in the center of the channel, and then a pile on the LB. Next, there is the opportunity to start to organize insurance. After 50-60m, the second stage is about 130 m long. A clean, carrying discharge of 0.7-1 m with a powerful shaft, followed by shafts of about

70-80 cm. The step goes into the third part without clear divisions. The third stage is a drain between two rock blocks, with a slab at the exit. In the center is a large stone protruding from the water. There's a reach beyond the threshold. Exploration is possible along any shore. Parking space below the threshold at PB.

Stages 1 and 2 were easy, after which the chuck in a small catch just before stage 3 on the LB. Since there is a section of non-dangerous rapids further on, there was no point in taking risks. There was plenty of time, so we carried out the 3rd step along the LB. Spent about 15 minutes on this.

Shivers to B. She walked straight away, avoiding large waves. The shivers are very nice. The passage is obvious everywhere from the water, there is enough time to maneuver. Several shivers passed by telemark - gracefully moving away from the swells along the shore, bypassing the main stream.

29-38. Area of ​​powerful shivers. You can go without reconnaissance. At the end of the section, a large island divides the river into two channels, the right one is deeper. Attention: danger of blind debris in the channels!

39. The island divides the river into two channels. The left main duct makes the PP. When the channels merge, the channel is blocked by flood slabs. Drain about 0.7 m.

40. Robberies near the mouth of the Karasuma River. There are blind blockages in the channels, which are very dangerous due to the high speed of the current.

It is advisable to select the main channels in the area of ​​robbery. Then there is less chance of getting into a dead end. In our water we came across one log-barrier across the entire channel (5m run-out) and one sawn log (5m run-through). The speed of the current in the channels is quite high, so you should not lose vigilance and do not accelerate further. Although we did not see any dangerous rubble. Probably, If they exist, they are in remote channels. Their location and configuration are changed by floods. In this area, it is not so much the rubble that is dangerous as the pressure on old creases - you need to get away from them in a timely manner.

2. Average She.
Village B.On - village M. Anzas - 55-57 km
Slope - 2.7 - 5.8m/km
Flow rate at B.On settlement - 100 m 3 /sec
Flow rate at M. Anzas - 120 m 3 /sec

41-50. Shivers and light clamps, sometimes with shafts up to 1 m. All obstacles of the middle Ona are passed without reconnaissance. From the village of B.On to the village of Kubayka the Ak-Dovurak - Abaza highway runs along the river. There are few parking spaces. There is a parking lot after the third concrete bridge on the PB after the power line at the confluence of the right tributary Big Kalgan. In the village of Kubayka there is an unfinished wooden bridge and an iron cable near the bridge. In front of M. Anzas there is a water-measuring post - a cable over the river. In M. Anzas there is a confluence of a large left and almost opposite a right tributary. After M. Anzas the beginning of the Lower Ona section.

3. Lower She.
Village M. Anzas - mouth - 22 km
Incline - 4.4 - 6.9 m/km
Flow rate at the mouth - 140-150 m 3 /sec
River width - 40-70m

From the village of M. Anzas to the "Big Rapids" it is about 3 km of rafting. The landmark for the beginning of the rapids is a stream falling steeply from the LB to the PP. The river is part of a system of fairly high ridges. The length of the shiver is 500-1000m. Until por.64, all obstacles can be overcome immediately. Powerful barrels are located in the center of the riverbed; everywhere there is room for maneuver and bypass along the “sewer”. The thresholds and shivers are quite the same type. In some places, obstacles merge into one another without clear boundaries.

In the area of ​​obstacles 51 and 52 we were caught by a strong headwind! This phenomenon is extremely interesting. A strong south wind is reflected from the sides of the narrow Ona valley. His strength is such that we stood still in the shivers!!! I had to go to LB and wait it out. We had an early lunch. The wind died down only at 16:00.

51. Shivera. Shafts, rare stones with barrels. Passed without reconnaissance.

52. Shiver on a straight section of 300-400m. There are stones in the shafts. Passed without reconnaissance.

Attention: points 51-52 are not noticeable in high water!

53. Threshold at the river crossing point. Shaft up to 1.5m. Powerful barrels. Length about 100m. Inspection with PB. At high water it can be mistaken for a shivera.

This threshold was looked at according to the PB. The passage is right along the PB itself. No need to poke into the shafts in the center!

54-56. Shivers. There are stones and shafts up to 1.5 m in the riverbed. They go without reconnaissance.

57. Threshold. Powerful plums, barrels. You can go without reconnaissance.

We passed along the LB without reconnaissance

58-60. Similar to paragraphs 54-56.

61. Threshold. It starts with a shiver. The output is powerful drains, shafts, large stones.

62. Threshold with large stones in the riverbed. The output is powerful barrels.

63. Simple shifter 300-400m.

We carefully sneaked along the LB and immediately passed threshold 64. Under no circumstances should you go to the center at the 63 obstacle, then on a steep LP a powerful jet can carry you straight into the clamp and barrel of threshold 64.

64. LP. The river spills into two branches (in high water the island is flooded with water). At the confluence of the channels, the “Revun” rapid is a powerful barrel near the rocks of the PB. There is an old crease on the rocks of PB. Next is a ridge of stones and a drain. Clean pass along the LB, then moving towards the center. Opposite the barrel on the LB there is a good parking lot. After the threshold there is a small reach about 100m. You can feel the support. Chalka is in the catch at LB to view item 65.

65. Threshold "Dzharginskaya pit" (!) (First Onsky)- the most difficult and dangerous rapid on Ona. Over the course of 90m, the river drops by 6-7 m. The shafts are up to 2m. The threshold consists of two steps. The threshold begins with a powerful rift. Further in the first step, in the center of the riverbed, there is a huge stone, to the right of it is a powerful drain, behind it is a huge foam pit. On the left there are narrow passages between the pouring stones. In the second stage there are powerful drains through three pouring stones on the right side of the riverbed. The main jet falls towards the PB. The passage can be carried out along the LB, or along the P, passing the second stage along the main drain. Beyond the threshold of fast currents. There is a parking space on the LB in front of the threshold. In the mountains on the LB opposite the threshold there is the “Dzharginsky failure”.

Chalka near the parking lot with a memorial tree. Reconnaissance of the entrance rift to the First Onsky threshold along the LB. After the entrance, we moored near the frame of the tourist bathhouse in front of the threshold itself. Carrying along the trail along the LB. Spent about 30 minutes on it. Reconnaissance showed that passage along the LB is almost certainly safe. However, without insurance, we considered it unnecessary to take risks in this rapid, since the still unexplored 2nd Onsky rapid was ahead. At that moment there were no other groups at the threshold, so, unfortunately, we did not go to the threshold.

66. Plot 600m. There are rocky fragments in the center of the riverbed. Shaft up to 1.5m. Along the banks there are big catches behind the rocks. Behind the LP there is a drain of up to 1m across the entire river (at the LB there is less drainage). Behind it, after 200-300m, is the “Island” threshold. You can feel the backwater, you can see a large difference in heights. Chalka on LB in a small bay.

We walked right away.

67. Threshold "Island" (!) (Second Onsky). The second most difficult rapid on Ona. There is a large stone island in the riverbed, located closer to the PB. The right duct is shallow, the left one has a threshold. Two steps. In the first there are three powerful discharges with an interval of 15 m. The second drain is the most powerful. The height of the drains is greatest in the center of the channel. The second stage is after a fast flow of about 30m. High drainage across the entire river. In the center of the riverbed there is a stone in a drain. To the right and left of it are powerful foam boilers. The PB has a clean passage along the shafts.

The most powerful rapid on the route, in my opinion. It was easy to cross into our water at the PB and seep through the sewer. At the end of the sewer - a blockage of stones - we had to carry out the last 40m. The wiring is tight.

The remaining rapids and shivers went straight away. Threshold 71 “Weekend” passed along the LB. Behind the threshold is the left tributary - they had lunch at his place.

68. Shivera with large stones and crossroads immediately after point 67.

69. Simple shivera.

70. Threshold 500m (in high water shiver). There are many large stones in the riverbed.

71. Threshold "Weekend". On a straight section of the river after two left turns (from the port of Ostrov). From P and LB there are accumulations of huge boulders. Three plums with powerful barrels. Reconnaissance is possible from both banks, preferably from the PB. Ahead you can see a mountain range across the river - this is the confluence of the Ona and the Abakan.

Abakan is a powerful river with a fast current. There is quite a lot of motorboat traffic on it. There are very few parking spaces. We found a good parking lot at the PB, 5 km below the mouth of the Ona. The landmark is a huge pine tree growing on a sandy beach. The total time of rafting along Abakan is about 3 hours of leisurely rowing. Near Abaza, there is a good parking lot at the PB, 1 km above the bridge. The place is, in principle, not bad; fishermen don’t go there often. However, it is better to hide all things in the tent in advance. It is useful to catch a minibus to the bus station at the LB behind the bridge at the entrance to Abaza.

7. Traffic schedule

dateDay's journeyRoute sectionDistanceWay to travel
04.08.2006-08.08.2006 Moscow – Abakan4379 train
08.08.2006 1 Abakan – 105 km of the Ak-Dovurak – Abaza highway / lane. Cohosh - stream. Kurukul – the first ford of Kurukul318 / 10 Car/foot
09.08.2006 2 The first ford is the mouth of the river. Kurukul10 On foot
10.08.2006 3 Mouth of the river Kurukul - Karatoshsky threshold2 Alloy
11.08.2006 4 The Karatoshsky threshold is a parking lot after pores. 2621 Alloy
12.08.2006 5 parking after port 26 – 2 km below the mouth of the river. Karasuma28 Alloy
13.08.2006 6 2 km below the mouth of the river. Karasuma - r. Bol. Kalgan26 Alloy
14.08.2006 7 Day0 -
15.08.2006 8 R. Bol. Kalgan - 1.5 km above the fourth reinforced concrete. bridge17 Alloy
16.08.2006 9 1.5 km above the fourth reinforced concrete. bridge - obstacle 6327 Alloy
17.08.2006 10 obstacle 63 – 5 km below the mouth of the river. She15 Alloy
18.08.2006 11 5 km below the mouth of the river. It is 1 km above the bridge in Abaza30 Alloy
19.08.2006 12 day0 -
20.08.2006 13 Abaza - Abakan178 automobile
20.08.2006-23.08.2006 Abakan – Moscow4279 train

8. Trek diary

08/08/2006 Tuesday.

We landed in Abakan at 6:00 local time. We immediately loaded into Rodnik's car - the driver's name is Roman. The road to Abaza goes between green hills - very reminiscent of the landscapes in Scotland - beauty. After the pass to Abaza the sun disappeared and it became noticeably cooler. In Abaza at 9:10. We stopped at the Rodnik office, paid and moved up the Ona. The road is in excellent condition, paved through the forested mountains. We saw the middle current of Ona and Big On. We arrived at km 105 at 11:00. Cold and foggy. A group from Samara caught up with us - 13 people on two Gazelles. It took 1.5 hours to climb the pass - it was hard. The views are amazing!!! It started to rain upstairs. It's difficult to go down - it's slippery. After 1 hour we reached the river through the burnt forest. Kurukul. There's lunch there. The gorge is deep and damp. It was difficult to boil the tea. There is not enough firewood. Go ahead. It became noticeably warmer. The sun came out. We passed 2-3 streams of the Kurukul tributary. We found currants and gooseberries. We saw a snake. The path is full of trees and roots - they get in the way and are easy to fall. After the first ford through Kurukul we set up camp on the LB. Opposite are the steep cliffs of PB. The place is pleasant, there are a lot of currants, but there are large ants. I really liked the water in Kurukul, it has a surprisingly pleasant taste, you can even feel a little bitterness, either from mineralization, or from traces of a recent fire - there is still a lot of burnt forest under the pass. In the evening, around 22:00, two fishermen quickly ran along the path towards the pass.

08/09/2006 Wednesday

It's warm at night. It's raining in the morning. Everywhere is damp and foggy. The tops of the mountains are not visible at all. We got up at 7:00. The watch, which got wet yesterday, started working - nice. We left at 8:00. Almost immediately - two fords across the river. Kurkul. The fords are simple. They walked in neoprene socks. Due to the tall damp grass and rain, our feet quickly got wet - flashlights would have been helpful. After the 4th ford we found a hut right on the PB. We were there at 9:00. Three grandfathers from Novosibirsk spent the night there. The youngest one looks about 65 years old!!! They go in two walks and drag a raft with a duralumin frame. It weighs 70kg and comes in two hefty packages!!! One of them twisted his leg in Big On, but he hobbles quite cheerfully. There were two walks with them. It turned out that they were on Ona for the 4th time already. This time it's been five days!!! When we found out that we had only been to the pass yesterday, we didn’t believe it for a long time. Their leader’s name is Ilya Ginzburg, he works in Akademgorodok at the Institute of Physics and Mathematics. It turned out that we have mutual acquaintances from MIIT - nice. The second's name is Mikhail, and the third's is Oleg (each other's name is Batya). We chatted with them for half an hour. We exchanged emails. Grandfathers talked about their past campaigns, incl. mentioned the conquest of Belin in 1965!!! AIS, who loves to flaunt his age and experience, involuntarily felt like a boy compared to them. My grandfathers and I went on two walks. They were treated to dried apricots. We parted 6 km from Ona. They want to try to swim along the Kurukul - it’s an obvious gamble - they’ll definitely suffer. And we moved on, made 4 more trips and closer to 16:00 we were at Ona. Muscovites stand on the switch, incl. Dmitry, with whom I corresponded about a joint transfer. We set up a camp 300 m above the mouth of the Kurukul. They chopped and sanded sticks for the frame, dried them and came to their senses. We gave tea to passing Samarans - they were very exhausted. AIS took a toll on my legs, but I’m fine with them, thanks to the new boots, only my right knee hurts a little. The weather is still the same - damp and sometimes rainy. We went to bed around 21.

08/10/2006 Thursday.

It rained heavily at night - I woke up with my head in a puddle. We got up at 9:00. They slowly finished the frame. Three fishermen passed by upstream. A guy came from Chelyabinsk, who joined the Samara people - his name is Rais. He has the experience of Tsipa and Belin. He goes together with his girlfriend Anya (she is from Yekaterinburg) to K2. She only has mountain experience. We saw Muscovite students on foot - they were coming from Pozarym. We tied up a 1.5 m wide frame and dragged it and the things to the switch. We packed and inflated the gondolas. We left only at 17:00 in the rain. The current is strong and there is a lot of water. Shivers are simple, but require precise maneuvering - this is not Karelia at all. In one place, our path was blocked by a young birch tree stuck in the stones of the PB. The small width of the river did not allow us to completely escape from it. AIS, received a strong blow to the stomach and leg - it’s good that he was wearing a lifeguard and pads. We swam 15 minutes to Karatosh. It flows into two branches on the left. Right after its mouth is a threshold. We moored at the LB in front of the threshold to a good parking lot - wiring + set up camp. Dinner. We started eating freeze-dried meat - it was tolerable. The dampness is terrible! It was quite difficult to start a fire. I severely cut my finger with an ax - they took out the first aid kit. We climbed into the tent at 20:00. Very tired. There are 8 obstacles ahead until the first dangerous threshold Caliber.

08/11/2006 Friday.

It was warm at night and without rain. We got up at 7:30. The weather has improved significantly. Blue skies appeared in places. We left at 10:30. We drove through the rive and climbed out to the PB at the Karatoshskaya outpost - 1 hut + bathhouse. The river became noticeably more powerful. We drove without looking until threshold No. 8. Reconnaissance along the LB through the remains of the crease. We found black currants on it. Discharge on the LP >1m. Stitch it easily. After that, everyone flew without watching until the threshold of 19. Incl. Maxim, who passed, clearly fitting right next to the large boulders. For a long time they could not believe that Maxim was not noticed in his excitement. In some places we were quite flooded, but overall we walked confidently. Lunch at the LB at the "Slant Gate". The threshold is beautiful! We carried out the climax, out of sin. The sun is shining - everything is not so sad! Before us is the main cascade of thresholds in the upper part. We drove without looking until the “Bull” threshold - in some places there were very powerful drops with barrels and shafts, and there were difficult pressures. The riverbed is full of boulders - we hit one with a half-foot and almost threw ourselves, although the place was simple - fatigue took its toll. The key location of the "Bull" was carried out - the wiring was complex, about 50m. We walked further confidently until the threshold-clamp 26 at the PP. I finally managed to find my way around it. There is a good catch behind the pressure and excellent parking on the PB. On the shore there is a frame for a bathhouse, a woodpile of firewood. We set up camp at 16:40!!! We covered about 20 km a day in 2.5 hours. The sun is shining - everything is fine! Opposite us are steep cliffs about 200m high. Beauty! We dried ourselves, cooked dinner, repaired the catamaran (sawed off the protruding parts of the frame and tightened the bindings). We drank tea with pine nuts. Ahead of us is a shiver, and behind it is a Bobsleigh threshold. We looked at maps and directions. There is quite a lot of water in the river now – you can see it right away from the grass line. We haven't seen anyone in a day.

08/12/2006 Saturday.

The night was warm and there was light rain. The weather is good in the morning. We got up at 9. We left at 11:20. We easily passed the shiver No. 27 and landed on the PB in front of the first stage of the Bobsleigh. Conducted stage 1 and 2 reconnaissance. We passed them confidently. Chalka on the LB in the only micro-catch for stage 3 reconnaissance. In the central part, the main stream goes between two large boulders, the shafts are more than 1 m after a large drainage, it is problematic to drive there from our place. We decided not to risk it and walked along the LB. The wiring was unpleasant, in places we were waist deep in water – we were tired. After Bobsleigh we swam for 1 hour without reconnaissance through the rifts. We arrived at the ruins of a bathhouse on LB. They had lunch there. The weather was beautiful, it became hot - we had to take off our anoraks. We left at 14:30. The rifts in this area are noticeably stronger than those upstream. There are characteristic trees and plums everywhere. However, they are also easy to pass. An hour after lunch we stopped at LB. A monument to Kin Alexander Ottovich, who died in 2001, was discovered on a low cliff. We drove for another 1.5 hours before the start of the robberies in front of the mouth of the Karasuma. The valley expanded noticeably, the mountains around became lower. The shores became swampier and less rocky. We were very attentive, because the pilot warned us, promising terrible blockages in the channels. And indeed, with a strong current, even old creases at turns require attention. We tried to follow the main channels. We encountered only one obvious impassable obstacle - a log slag across the channel. They stopped near him and surrounded him. In another similar place, a passage was cut into a log. 1 km above the mouth of the Karasuma River we met people in two cars at the PB - fishermen from Abaza. Nearby are the remains of a wooden bridge across the Ona. Apparently it was swept away by the flood. We set up camp at 1800, 2 km below Karasuma on the LB before a steep PP. The local area is very pleasant - a lot of berries (raspberries, currants, stone fruits), and a lot of dry wood. In this place it flows only in a channel 30 meters wide, and it is deep. The current even on the reaches is very strong, about 8-10 km/h. The weather is great, we dried out. We cooked soup. We found an overturned rubber fishing boat near our shore without any belongings - it looked like it had been tossed around. In the forest, they found a storage shed on a tree in a secluded place - apparently made by hunters. Traces of small ungulates were seen on the damp sand. We climbed into the tent at 21:00.

08/13/2006 Saturday.

We got up at 9:00. Doing this earlier is now pointless because of the heavy fog, in which you can’t see anything further than 25m away. By 11 it had dissipated and the weather was warm and sunny, even somewhat hot. We sailed at 11:20. We went through a series of robberies, but there were no more rubbles. After 20 minutes we reached the confluence of B. She. The village is invisible from the river, and as it seemed from the car during the transfer, it has practically ceased to exist. The river has become noticeably larger - the width is now more than 50m. The current speed is also high, so you don't have to row much. A route to Ak-Dovurak appeared along the river. Since the weekend has arrived, fishermen who came from Abaza can be found along the banks. We passed the first two bridges out of four across the Ona. The bridges are in excellent condition. Behind the second, on a small pebble island, we had lunch. We saw a small black predator with a bushy tail on the shore. There are few obstacles on the river - local shifts and rapids, we go easily. In one place we practiced telemark. There are some easy climbs to beautiful rocks, and the places are extremely picturesque. We passed the third bridge. After him, at the mouth of the Bolshoi Kalgan River, they looked for a good place on the PB, indicated in the navigation guide. We found it easily, right on the spit at the confluence of this stream. Nearby there are huge rocks that look like the towers of a giant castle. On the LB there is a well-known road. I tried to swim - I climbed in up to my waist for a few seconds and immediately jumped out - the water was icy, but refreshing. We decided to spend a day here. A fresh breeze blows from the Maly Kalgan gorge, which drives away the midges, although horseflies and mosquitoes are still present in small numbers here. Traffic on the highway is quite busy. Mostly fuel trucks go to Tuva. Three boats with local fishermen passed along the river. Samarans and grandfathers are not visible - maybe they will arrive tomorrow. We are thinking about how we can move on, since we have tickets for 20 and it would seem there is still a carload of time - here’s how to spend it wisely. The key place is large rapids. We went to bed around 21:00.

08/14/2006 Monday.

Day. We got up at 9:30. It was fresh in the morning, but by midday it became hot. We had a leisurely breakfast, lay on the shore, and talked with the fishermen who came to visit us. The men turned out to be from Abaza. We learned from them about the methods of ejection. They gave us the taxi phone number (2-35-16). We gave them a fly that we found on the shore. There are not many fish here - they say that in the upper reaches there are graylings, but in the lower reaches everything was caught with nets. This may or may not be true; it was not possible for us to verify this. Before lunch the weather was excellent. I made an attempt to swim - the water was icy, but invigorating - I went in up to my waist and immediately jumped out. We observed a family of kites nesting on the surrounding rocks. I hunted for them with a camera for a long time, but without success. After lunch we spent a long time working on the inflatable seats and strengthening them. At about 16:00 the weather suddenly deteriorated and it began to rain heavily, which continued until the evening. It’s good that the firewood was hidden under the awning. We climbed into the tent very early - we read the directions and studied the map. We had a great time.

08/15/2006 Tuesday.

It rained a little at night. In the morning there is heavy fog. Chilly. We left around 11 in a light rain. We passed the so-called Oninskaya outpost (two sheds on the PB), saw several people there. The river became even wider - about 70m. A new bridge is being built in the area of ​​\u200b\u200btwo tributaries P and L - there is only one span left to complete to the LB. The bridge is wooden. There is a bulldozer and a couple of trucks working there. There are about 10 workers. A new road approaches the PB in this place - a branch from the main route. Lumberjacks use it. The rain got heavier. After the power line, 1.5 km above the last bridge across the Ona, we were forced to stop at the LB in a clearing in front of the PL. There is a good parking lot with benches and a table - just the route goes along the LB, 100m from here. With the help of an awning and the remains of a canopy, they made an impromptu tent and had lunch. The rain didn’t stop - we set up a tent and slept until 16:30. The sun came out for a while - we managed to collect firewood and dry out. After which it started raining heavily again. I had to stay here overnight. Huge larches grow in the forest. There is no undergrowth, but there are dense thickets of ferns all around. There are about 15 km left to the rapids. Kubayka is about 7 km away. Abaza is about 70 km away.

08/16/2006 Wednesday.

At night we were awakened by a terrible crash. They were terribly alarmed, but nothing followed the noise. In the morning it's foggy and cloudy again. We left at 11:00. Around the bend was the last bridge over the Ona. An hour later we found ourselves near Kubayka. The weather has improved noticeably - it has become sunny and warm. Kubayka is a major center of civilization. This village is located on PB. The main buildings belong to the tourist center. We saw several catamarans - apparently commercial rafting is thriving here. There is even a satellite dish on the roof. The bridge in Kubayka was wooden, but one of its spans (near LB) was demolished. The road to LB nevertheless exists, we heard the noise of a truck. There is a cemetery on a hill below Kubayka on PB. An hour later we reached Big Anzas (LB) - the last settlement on the river. It consists of 10 dilapidated houses with no signs of electricity. We saw horses, cows and pigs. A water-measuring cable is thrown across the river - it does not pose a danger and is visible from afar. We rested opposite the village on PB. Ahead along the stream is the gloomy entrance to the Lower Gorge. The mountains have noticeably risen. The weather began to deteriorate. We swam 2 km to the first rapids. Suddenly a very strong wind rose. The clouds are flying at incredible speed, and the wind is reflected from the sides of the narrow river valley in different directions. Some gusts were so strong that we stood still in the shafts of the first rift. I had to lean on the LB and wait out the wind. As soon as the wind died down, they rushed forward. Two shivers passed right away. We carried out reconnaissance of threshold 54 according to PB. The shafts here are decent >1m. We walked along the PB easily. The width of the river is 50m. Current speed is more than 10 km/h. Near rapids 56 we met guys from Novokuznetsk - they are coming from Kubayka in a rubber boat - they are clearing the rapids. After the meeting, two more shivers passed immediately and stood in a good place on the LB near the KrLP at the mouth of the Dzhargan River. Ahead of us is threshold 63, behind it at the turn is the Revun rapids, and then First Onsky. In the evening the wind raged again - the tent was inflated like a balloon. Suddenly a familiar Ural couple arrived. We went with them on reconnaissance to the parking lot with the watermen’s tree - our calculations turned out to be absolutely correct.

08/17/2006 Thursday.

We got up early, so we were on the water at 9:40. We easily passed the threshold along the LB, and deftly avoided the pressure in Revun, we moored at the LB near the parking lot with the watermen’s tree. We went to see the First Onsky. We passed the entrance rift and stopped in the catch on the LB near the frame of the bathhouse. The passage along the LB was almost obvious, but without insurance they decided not to be a hero and enclosed the key part along the path along the LB. The carryover is not difficult - its length is about 100m. The trail is very good. It is good to photograph the threshold from the stones on the LB. A monument was found on the rock. Judging by last year’s photographs, the water level is now higher than normal. We passed a simple rift and drove up to the Second Onsky rapids. View from LB. The threshold is very powerful - shafts up to 2m, huge barrels. We decided to take advantage of the high water and go around the main part of the threshold through the sewer along the PB. At the end, the sewer was clogged with stones, requiring waist-deep wiring in icy water. The wiring is short but tedious. The last threshold, we passed immediately along the LB. Lunch at 12:40 at the mouth of the left tributary 1 km after the last rapids. There is still about 30 minutes of rafting to Abakan. Abakan at the mouth of the Ona is a huge river with a fast current. Width more than 100m. The views are amazing!!! There are many motor boats. We found a good parking lot on the PB 5 km after the mouth. The landmark is a huge pine tree on the PB beach. We rested and lit a big fire.

08/18/2006 Friday.

We left late, around 12:00. The weather is cloudy. In 3 walking hours we reached Abaza. It can be seen from afar along the high chimney of the mine. We stopped at the PB 1 km above the bridge. There is a regular anti-slip place here - full of elements of catamaran frames. They dried themselves and tore things apart. I managed to call Moscow!!! MTS is already working here - it’s nice. In the evening it began to rain heavily. We decided not to go to Abakan tomorrow, but to pack our things and dry out.

08/19/2006 Saturday.

We woke up at 9:00. Fog, damp and rain. There is no point in drying things - we slowly pack our backpacks. We saw a falcon that drove away a kite - an amazing sight. He was sitting very close on a fallen tree. He has very beautiful plumage. Truly a royal bird! The dampness around is terrible. A thick fog rises over the mountains. The food was practically destroyed by us - it was a nice layout. They sewed up small holes in the bags and the seams of the outer gondolas.

08/20/2006 Sunday.

The morning is damp and foggy. At 9:00 we moved to Abaza. We crossed the bridge and foolishly moved straight towards the exit from the city. They tried to call a taxi at the gas station, but were unsuccessful - they moved to the bus station back to the bridge and along the river along the road along the slag mountain. A local minibus picked us up and took us to the bus station for 12 rubles/person. There we bought tickets for a minibus to Abakan. We bought some groceries at the store. We walked around a bit and saw the railway. railway station. Next door to it is the Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses - funny. The gazelle was jam-packed. After Tashtyp the sun appeared. We arrived in Abakan at 15:30 - it’s warm and wonderful here. We dropped our things at the station, bought more groceries, and talked to the guys from Kurgan who were returning from Kantegir. Abakan is pleasant - a green and clean city. We boarded the train, took out our sleeping bags and passed out. The hike is over!

There is no point in providing a complete list of personal and group equipment, since it is completely standard, but it is useful to dwell on some details, namely the elements of equipment responsible for safety. Each participant in the trip on the water, during guiding and reconnaissance, was wearing a life jacket (volume >20 liters), a special alloy helmet, Triton neoprene socks and homemade protective knee-ankle pads made of foam, made specifically for this trip. The knife in its sheath was in an easily accessible place. The use of neoprene wetsuits can be useful (especially if there are keels and drifts), although this is still not, in our opinion, necessary and will increase the weight of the backpack on foot. Using dry suits on this river in summer is practically pointless. A public tent in an easily accessible location (external backpack flap) is extremely useful - the weather in this region changes very quickly. All items that are afraid of water, such as a phone, a camera, a lighter, a watch, etc., were transported by one of the participants in a special compact Aquapac sealed packaging. Maps, diagrams and directions were made in duplicate and sealed in a plastic “file”. Since the danger of ticks occurs even in August, “deaf” clothing with a hood is required.

The layout was standard - at the rate of 620g per person per day. We used freeze-dried meat "Gala-Gala" - quite tolerable. We took a lot of dried fruits and nuts. The total weight of each backpack at the pass was exactly 30 kg.

10. Conclusions and recommendations

We have only the most positive impressions from this trip. External factors influencing this were very favorable: beautiful nature, relatively good weather, easy casting and dropping. The rich wildlife on such a popular route was also very pleasing. We observed several times a small predator like a marten. We saw many different birds of prey. At the last stop near Abaza we saw a falcon very close!!! This was one of the most vivid impressions of the entire trip.

The chosen movement tactics allowed us to complete the route without spending too much energy on it. After the upper gorge, the hike took place in rest mode.

The development of this region is also of significant interest to lovers of hiking and water travel. A strong kayaking group in high water will find rafting along the lower reaches of the Bolshoi On very pleasant. You can repeat the classic radial access to the sources of the Ona to Lake Ulug-Mungash-Khol and to Lake Pichi-Mungash-Khol, described in detail in. It is possible to repeat the route Karatosh - Ona, described in the report, subject to high water. Fans of walking and water routes with a long walking part can be advised to explore the now almost forgotten route along Maly Abakan. The walking part of it, about 100-120 km long, follows the classic route up the Karatosh River to Lake Pozarym and further through the Karatosh Pass along the river. Iserla. I have no reports on the passage of this route in recent years. Although in 2005 there was a team from the MAMI FORTIS tourist club, led by Sergei Ofitserov. Apparently, the water part is no higher than the catamaran triple.

11. Literature
  1. Kuvalin D. Karatosh - She.
  2. Broner Yu.E. She and Abakan 2001.
  3. Yurin V. R. She is the main road of water tourism.
  4. Grigoriev V.N. and Co. Water routes of the USSR. Asian part. M., FiS., 1976.
  5. Topographic maps of the General Staff, scale 1:200000. Sheets: M-45-VI (Lake Kara-Khol), N-45-XXXVI (Matur), N-46-XXXI (Abaza)
    "http://www.mapm45.narod.ru/map2/indext.html"
    "http://www.mapn45.narod.ru/map2/indext.html"
    "http://www.mapn46.narod.ru/map2/indext.html"
  6. Republic of Khakassia. Official portal of government authorities.