How often should fruit trees be watered? How to properly and effectively water fruit trees in spring. When should you water fruit trees?

Beginning gardeners are wondering whether it is possible to plant a seedling in the spring and how effectively the tree will survive in this case? Let's look at the rules for successful spring tree planting.

When discussing which trees are best to plant in the spring, you need to take into account the region in which you live. For example, for the southern regions, the optimal time for planting is autumn, because trees planted in the spring may not have time to take root before the onset of hot days, which means they risk getting burned or dying.

But in central regions The timing of planting trees can fall either in autumn or in spring - thanks to the temperate climate, seedlings have every chance to take root equally. For the northern regions, spring planting of seedlings - the best option, since trees planted in the fall often do not have time to acclimatize and die from hypothermia.

Spring tree planting: pros and cons

Let's start with the benefits of planting trees in the spring:

1. In the spring, it is possible to observe the process of plant survival, and the likelihood that it will freeze, as often happens in winter, is practically reduced to zero.

2. You will have enough time to prepare everything related to planting fruit trees: fertilize the soil, think over a planting plan, acquire tools, which means the procedure itself will be more efficient.

The disadvantages of spring planting are as follows:

1. Seedlings should be purchased in the fall, since in the spring the choice on the market will not be as wide.

2. If the summer is hot, young trees will have to be watered almost every day.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Buy tree seedlings better in autumn when the plants are already dormant. And before planting seedlings in the spring, they need to be prepared. Carefully inspect the root system and use sharp pruning shears to trim off any dead, rotten or damaged roots. Remove growths and shorten too long roots.

To improve root formation, before planting, dip the roots of the seedling in a solution of a growth stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Kornerost, Ukorenit, etc.).

Pit preparation

Since most trees are light-loving plants, the best location for the garden on the site is the south and southwest side. When planning to plant trees on your site, remember that it is important to follow right neighborhood. So, cherry and apple trees feel great next to each other, but it is not recommended to plant pears next to cherries, cherry plums and plums.

Depending on the type, the distance between trees when planting should be from 1.5 to 6 m.

For spring planting of trees, the soil must be prepared in summer-autumn so that within a few months an environment favorable for the seedling will be formed. As a last resort, work is carried out in the spring after the soil has thawed, 1-2 weeks before planting.

During the first autumn digging, you need to select large weeds from the soil, during the second - add fertilizer at the rate of: 6-8 kg of compost and 8-10 kg of a mixture of peat with superphosphate (80-100 g), potassium salt (30-50 g) and potassium sulfate (30-40 g) per 1 sq.m of area selected for planting trees.

In the spring, before you start digging planting holes, mark their contours with a shovel (for convenience, place a marking peg in the chosen place and use it as the center of the circle).

For pears and apple trees standard size The planting hole is 80-100 cm in diameter and 60-70 cm in depth. Plum and cherry seedlings will feel good in a hole with a diameter of 70-80 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm. If the seedlings are more than 2 years old, then the size of the hole needs to be increased.

You can be guided by this rule: the diameter of the planting hole should be 1.5 times larger than the diameter of the seedling's earthen ball.

How to plant a seedling correctly

When digging, on one side of the hole, place the top (turf, 15-20 cm deep) layer, on the other - the bottom (it has more dark color). Make the pit round and the walls vertical (steep). Stick a strong stake 1.5-2 m long into the bottom of the hole in the center so that you can later tie a seedling to it. Place the dug layer of turf at the bottom, then fill the hole with part of the fertile substrate to a height of 15-20 cm (mix equal amounts of peat, compost and soil removed from the hole).

Form a mound at the bottom of the hole and place the seedling in it (close to the stake), evenly distributing the roots.

Make sure that when planting, the roots of the seedling do not bend upward: bent roots develop worse and “slow down” the tree’s establishment.

When installing a seedling in a hole, bury it in the soil strictly up to the root collar; ideally, it should be located 3-5 cm above ground level. Later, the soil will settle a little and the root collar will descend. If the seedling is buried too deep, the plant may begin to rot in the future. While holding the seedling (you will need someone's help for this), fill the hole with the remaining substrate.

The root collar is the place where the plant trunk meets the roots. Usually it is 2-3 above the topmost root.

Gradually compact the soil with your feet, pressing on it from the edge to the center trunk circle. Tie the trunk of the seedling not very tightly to the stake in two places, so that when the soil “shrinks,” the tree also sinks.

Form a roller around the tree along the perimeter of the circle (you will get a watering “pool”).

Watering trees after planting

Immediately after the tree is planted, it is necessary to water it at the root. The water pressure should not be too strong so as not to erode the soil, so use a watering can with a socket or a hose with a sprinkler nozzle. After filling the "pool", wait until the water is absorbed, then fill it again. For the first watering you will need 1-2 buckets of water.

In the first year after planting, seedlings are watered quite often - as the soil dries out (during drought - 1-2 times a day). Then the frequency of watering is gradually reduced, and completely stopped for 2-3 years.

Experienced gardeners recommend mulching the tree trunk circle - pour a layer (8-10 cm) of mulching material (wood chips, sawdust, mown grass, etc.), leaving the root collar uncovered. This will improve the soil structure and protect it from freezing.

Primary care of planted seedlings

During the first year of a planted tree’s life, it is necessary to monitor how it develops and, if possible, correct deficiencies. There is no need to feed the seedling in the first year, since all the basic fertilizers were applied during planting. The tree trunk circle should be loose and free of weeds.

Carefully inspect the young tree and collect leaf-eating caterpillars, which can cause great harm to the plant. Also, do not allow growth to form on the trunk and near the roots; if necessary, cut it off at the very base.

The tree should not be tightly tied to the peg; check that the garter material does not rub the bark of the seedling or cut into it. If damage is visible, loosen the garter.

Planting young trees is a serious matter, but by following simple rules, after a while you will get a beautiful blooming garden and an excellent harvest.

Fruit trees at different periods of their existence in the garden require different approaches to watering. So, when and how much to water to Orchard pleased you with your harvest every year?

Watering fruit trees in the year of planting

Sooner or later, the gardener has to plant new fruit trees in your garden. Naturally, after planting, the seedling must be watered. It doesn’t matter when you planted it: in the spring in moisture-saturated soil, in the summer, planted from a container, or in the fall. Watering is still necessary.

The first watering not only makes it possible to saturate the seedling with water, but is largely required to compact the soil around the root system. Therefore, you should not just pour 2 buckets of water under the seedling, watching how it spreads throughout the entire area, eroding the loose soil around the seedling. It is better to install a sprinkler, making the water pressure low so that the splashes do not fly further than the tree trunk circle.

If there is no running water on the site, it is better to do the first watering from a watering can. By pouring the same 2 buckets of water under the seedling using a watering can, you will spend it much more efficiently.

So, the seedling is planted and watered. If the season is not very rainy, watering the seedling will be necessary regularly throughout the summer and autumn. At first, until the soil in the planting hole is compacted, you will have to water it using a sprinkler or watering can, as at the time of planting the seedling. Then you can simply place the hose in the circle around the trunk and turn on a small pressure of water.

If the summer is moderately rainy, then watering is carried out only when the soil is very dry. In rainy summers, watering may not be necessary at all. In case of a dry summer, you will have to water the seedling often and abundantly, otherwise you will simply lose it.

For seedlings in the first year of planting, watering should be carried out at least once a week. If you water with a sprinkler, watch the time. You will have to water for about 2 hours (this mode applies to the average summer; during drought you will have to water more often).

Watering trees in the second year after planting

In the second year of a tree’s life on your site, watering is no longer as necessary as in the first season. Now you will water the tree only when necessary: in extreme heat or in the absence of rain for a long time. At the beginning of spring there is already enough water. Irrigation methods also do not depend on the timing of crop ripening.

You should start watering if there is no rain for a long time, if the soil is dry when you dig it with a shovel. In this case, the tree should be watered. The time and mode of watering may coincide with the watering mode of the first year seedling.

However, in these situations you should not be too zealous. The fact is that over the previous season the tree has already developed an extensive root system, which needs not only moisture, but also breathing. If water is constantly spilled around the tree, then there will be practically no air flow into the soil. As a result root system may rot and the tree may die.

The first sign of problems with the root system may be the drying out of newly opened leaves. If you notice this phenomenon, try loosening the soil in the tree trunk circle. If the problem is excess moisture, then this event will increase air access to the roots and the tree will gradually recover.

Watering a tree aged 3 to 15 years

Trees over 3 years old are no longer so demanding when it comes to watering. As a rule, they are watered only in very dry summers or during the period of fruit ripening.

Abundant and regular watering is also required. autumn period. This allows the tree to better prepare for winter and largely avoid frost damage.

Especially useful is abundant autumn watering for plums and cherries. Stone fruits are vulnerable in the winter cold, but if you give them good water in the fall, then the winter will pass without much damage.

Pre-winter watering is carried out after the leaves have fallen from the trees. Please note, however, that different breeds and varieties shed leaves in different time Therefore, watering in the fall is individual for each tree. If possible, water once a day, 2 buckets per tree, for a week. In most cases this is enough.

Sprinkling the crown

Sprinkling can be used for seedlings and young trees during hot, dry summers. However, you need to remember that this should be done in cloudy weather, and preferably in the evening at sunset or after sunset. If you use waiting during the day, the water droplets will focus sunlight and the leaves will get burned.

Sprinkling of adult fruit-bearing trees is carried out for preventive purposes before possible return frosts. This treatment increases the stability of the leaf crown against sudden temperature changes. In this case, sprinkling is carried out throughout the night and ends before dawn.

How to water a tree older than 15 years

Watering trees older than 15 years can be combined with fertilizing. However, it must be borne in mind that simply sprinkling mineral fertilizers on the surface or watering them diluted in water nutrients leads to high consumption chemicals with minimal effect. For feeding mineral fertilizers make 5-6 indentations around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle, for example, drive a crowbar to a depth of 25 cm into the ground and pull it out.

A handful of complex fertilizer is poured into each such hole and covered with earth. After this, a sprinkler is placed under the tree so that the water is evenly distributed throughout the entire circle around the trunk, covering the places where fertilizers are applied. This feeding will be enough for 2-3 years.

If they contribute organic fertilizers, a trench is made around the tree along the perimeter of the trunk circle, into which manure is placed and covered with earth. Watering after this is carried out in the same way as when fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Thus, watering a seedling or mature tree is an important factor on which the health of your garden pet may depend.

An important task for a gardener is to organize watering of the garden correctly, because nature does not always take care of watering our gardens on time. Watering is especially important when the fruits are filling and ripening, and the month is usually hot.

When and how much water does the garden need??

When and how much water each tree needs so that the water brings only benefits to it, no one but you can determine, because it depends on many factors only known to you: what age is your garden, and what kind of trees grow in it, what kind of soil is in the garden and soil moisture, when was the last time it rained in your region...

When to water main garden crops?

It is advisable to irrigate at the beginning of phenophases:
- active growth,
— harvest formation,
- laying flower buds for next year's harvest.

Young trees planted in spring current year, water 2-3 times a month.

Apple and pear

Apple and pear trees are watered more abundantly in May-July and moderately in August-September. IN dry summer- 3-4 waterings, in case of severe drought - 4-5 waterings. For trees with early As the fruits ripen, the number of waterings is reduced by one, and with later periods, the number of waterings is increased by one.

— 1st watering - in early June, after the excess ovary falls off;
- 2nd - in mid-July, 2-3 weeks before the fruits of summer varieties ripen (this watering promotes the filling of fruits and the laying of fruit buds for next year’s harvest);
- 3rd - in dry summers and high harvests in August, additional watering of the entire garden is carried out;
- 4th - in early September for trees of winter varieties.

Cherries and sweet cherries

Cherries and sweet cherries require a lot of water. They are watered during the same periods of the growing season and in the same doses as apple trees.

- 1st watering - at the very end of spring, during shoot growth;
- 2nd - two weeks before fruit ripening;
- 3rd - immediately after harvest.

Plum and cherry plum

Plum and cherry plum are very demanding on soil and air moisture. Plum trees do not tolerate both lack and excess moisture. The greatest need for water is in spring and the first half of summer.

— the first watering is carried out in the spring, during the growth of shoots;
- 2nd - at the end of June and beginning of July, during the period of formation and filling of fruits and to prevent the dropping of the ovary;
- 3rd - after and cherry plum.

Young cherry and plum trees that do not bear fruit need to be watered in June and July.

Sea buckthorn

Sea buckthorn is very responsive to watering during the berry-filling period.

The watering rate for sea buckthorn is 30-35 l/m².

In dry autumn, it is necessary to carry out water-recharging watering of the entire garden in October at the rate of 4-5 buckets per 1 m².

Observing the moisture content of the soil layer in which the bulk of the tree roots are located will also help you determine the timing of watering:

— for a young garden, the thickness of the wet soil layer is 20-50 cm,
— for fruiting apple trees - 70-90 cm,
- pears - 40-50 cm,
- cherries - 30-40 cm,
- plums, cherry plums, sea buckthorn - 20-30 cm.

How much water do fruit trees need??

I think there is no need to say that watering infrequently, but abundantly, is many times better than watering frequently, but sparingly.

Watering rates for fruit trees:

— for a non-bearing seedling - 3-5 buckets (30-50 l),
- for a 3-5 year old tree - 5-8 buckets (50-80 l) of water,
- for a 7-10 year old tree - 12-15 buckets (120-150 l) of water,
- for a tree older than 12-15 years - 3-5 buckets per 1 m2 of trunk circle.

For example, on sandy soils the number of waterings should be increased and the water rate reduced, and vice versa on clay.

It is also necessary to take into account the landscape features of the site - some of the water may flow down the slope or, conversely, stagnate if the garden is located in a hollow.

On hot sunny days, if possible, you can carry out refreshing sprinkling of the entire garden, which has a very good effect on the condition of the plants.

Today you learned how to organize watering of the garden - when and how much water fruit trees need, and we will discuss the garden and how to more easily deliver water to the roots of plants later. I am sure that the information received will help you keep your garden fresh and productive in any weather.

Sooner or later, a gardener has to work in his garden. Naturally, after planting, the seedling must be watered. It doesn’t matter when you planted it: in the spring in moisture-saturated soil, in the summer, planted from a container, or in the fall. Watering is still necessary.

If there is no running water on the site, it is better to do the first watering from. By pouring the same 2 buckets of water under the seedling using a watering can, you will spend it much more efficiently.

If the summer is moderately rainy, then watering is carried out only when the soil is very dry. Watering may not be needed at all. In case of a dry summer, you will have to water the seedling often and abundantly, otherwise you will simply lose it.

For seedlings in the first year of planting, watering should be carried out at least once a week. If you water, keep an eye on the time. You will have to water for about 2 hours (this mode applies to the average summer; during drought you will have to water more often).

Watering trees in the second year after planting

Watering a tree aged 3 to 15 years

Trees over 3 years old are no longer so demanding when it comes to watering. As a rule, they are watered only in very dry summers or during the period of fruit ripening.

Abundant and regular watering in the autumn is also required. This allows the tree to better prepare for winter and largely avoid frost damage.

Abundant autumn watering is especially useful for and. Stone fruits are vulnerable in the winter cold, but if you give them good water in the fall, then the winter will pass.

Pre-winter watering is carried out after the leaves have fallen from the trees. Please note that different species and at different times, therefore watering in the fall is individual for each tree. If possible, water once a day, 2 buckets per tree, for a week. In most cases this is enough.

Is it possible to water trees using sprinkling method?

How to water a tree older than 15 years

Watering trees older than 15 years can be combined with fertilizing. However, it must be taken into account that simply scattering on the surface or watering with nutrients diluted in water leads to a large consumption of chemicals with minimal effect. To fertilize with mineral fertilizers, make 5-6 depressions around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle, for example, drive a crowbar to a depth of 25 cm into the ground and pull it out.

Each such hole is filled and sealed with earth. After this, a sprinkler is placed under the tree so that the water is evenly distributed throughout the entire circle around the trunk, covering the places where fertilizers are applied. This feeding will be enough for 2-3 years.

If organic fertilizers are applied, a trench is made around the tree along the perimeter of the trunk circle, into which manure is placed and covered with earth. Watering after this is carried out in the same way as when fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Thus, watering a seedling or mature tree is an important factor on which the health of your garden pet may depend.

Experienced summer residents say that you need to water not more often, but with benefit! For example, fruit trees only need four over the summer - but serious ones! - watering. If there are few fruits, two waterings are enough.

Particularly important proper watering for young trees. Young fruit trees especially need water in the year of planting and the following year. In the first year after planting, young trees should be watered 4-5 times per season at the rate of 2-3 buckets for each apple and pear tree and 1-2 buckets for each cherry and plum tree with each watering. In subsequent years, young trees are watered less frequently, but the amount of water for each watering is increased by 1.5-2 times.

For the first time, catch the moment when the ovary begins to grow, and do the rest of the watering at the end of summer so that the shoots do not weaken while the fruits are filling.

You need to water evenly the entire trunk part of the soil, but do not pour water on the root collar. It is useful to pour water into the ring grooves around the trees. Exposing the roots as a result of watering is not allowed. If, after all, the roots are exposed here and there, they should be immediately covered with moist soil.

In general, it is better to water less often, but more abundantly. In this case, it is very important to moisten the soil to the depth of active roots. For pome crops it is approximately 60-70 centimeters, for stone fruits and berry bushes- somewhat less.

How much water does each tree need? What do you mean by serious watering? A garden landscaped with turf will require more water.

Think about it square meters tree trunk circle and multiply this number by 3. So many buckets of water need to be poured under it.

It is also worth considering the nature of the soil. Sandy ones, through which water flows like through a sieve, we water more often. Therefore, on light sandy soils, frequent watering with a small rate of water consumption is required, and on heavy clay soils, on the contrary, watering should be rare but plentiful.

When to water your garden depends on the weather, the dryness of the soil and the needs of the plants themselves. It is clear that a lack of water can have a painful effect on your fruit trees, but excess is even more harmful, since in waterlogged soil gas exchange decreases and the temperature in the root layer decreases, which leads to the death of the active part of the roots.

Helpful Tips:

15-20 days before harvesting the fruits, but not during their ripening period, water the garden a third time.

Watering immediately before harvesting leads to fruit drop and cracking.

The final watering is usually done in late autumn during leaf fall. This type of irrigation is also called moisture-recharging.

Early varieties of apple and pear trees require less watering than later ones.

Pear trees suffer greatly from excess water.

Stone fruits (apricot, cherry, plum) need to be watered less frequently than pome trees (apple and pear).

If you're expecting bountiful harvest, then trees need more moisture than trees with less or no harvest.