To install a metal tile roof, it is not enough to secure sheets of material to the sheathing. In order for the roof to acquire a finished look and the necessary functional properties (including protective ones), its structure is supplemented with various additional elements.

One of them is a roof ridge for a metal roof, which is a mandatory part of any pitched design. Without it, the roof will leak, mold will grow in the insulation, and the rafters will rot. The outlook is bleak. Therefore, you should think about choosing a ridge and its proper installation at the first stages of creating a metal tile roof.

The term “roof ridge” means the upper element of the roof, installed along the edge of the intersection of the slopes.

For a metal tile roof, ridges are made from a metal strip in the form of an outer corner. A flange is made on its edges (the metal is bent into the structure 1.5 cm on both sides) to prevent moisture from seeping under the ridge. Ridge wall thickness ( metal sheet) is usually 1.5 mm, less common are designs with a metal thickness of up to 2.5 mm.

The main purpose of the ridge part is to bridge the gap between the slopes. This provides protection against atmospheric moisture, debris, and insects entering the under-roof space. Also, covering the joint has a decorative function, that is, it makes the roof covering complete and harmonious.

In addition, a ridge strip, installed correctly, becomes the key to high-quality under-roof ventilation. Since, thanks to the profile of the metal tile, structural gaps are formed between it and the planes of the ridge, it becomes possible for air to escape from the under-roof space through them.

Types of skates for metal tiles

As a rule, companies that produce metal tiles also offer components for them. Therefore, choosing a ready-made ridge strip that matches the color of the purchased roofing material is not difficult.

The main thing that you will have to choose in any case is the shape of the ridge strip. The following varieties are found:

• Triangular models (flat)- the simplest and cheap way decorate the edge of the slopes. In this case, the ridge strip at the end has the shape of a triangle, that is, it repeats the geometry of the angle of connection of the slopes.
• Rectangular models (also referred to as flat, another name for them is curly)– have a more complex, broken shape. Just like the triangular parts, they repeat the shape of the angle between the slopes, but at the top they have a U-shaped break.
• Semicircular (or round) models– the most decorative and expensive. In section they have the shape of a semicircle. At the end sides of a ridge assembled from such planks, plugs are installed that have a semicircular or conical shape (for hip roofs). For connecting semicircular ridges on roof slopes complex shape(for example, hip ones) T and Y-shaped tee pads are used.

When choosing ridge element In addition to the shape, you should pay attention to its width. For installation and further operation, products with a width of 200 mm or more are most preferred. Less than 150 mm are already risky options that require special care during installation and mandatory markings.

It is easier for atmospheric moisture and dust to “get” under a narrow ridge, especially during windy weather. The choice of such a skate is usually due to the small size of the slopes, on which a wider part looks too massive.

The gap under the ridge: how to close it?

Any ridge strip has a flat sole, with which it is attached to the wave surface of the metal tile. As a result, gaps form at the joint. On the one hand, this is a positive point, allowing air to circulate in the under-roof space and provide high-quality ventilation.

On the other hand, precipitation (rain and snow) can get into the open gaps under the ridge, the accumulation of which leads to rotting wooden structures, wet insulation.

Therefore, in order to protect the under-roof space from atmospheric moisture, debris and insects, but not to block air exchange (ventilation), either a seal or a special ridge aero element is installed between the strip and the metal tile. Let's consider the types and properties of each of these materials.

Types and properties of seals

Seals are produced in the form of tapes with different properties, which are laid along the joint line between the ridge parts and the metal tiles. They come in the following types:

• Profile (hard). They are made of foamed polyethylene, capable of taking the form of roofing sheets. Profile gaskets completely repeat the profile of a specific metal tile. To ensure that tight closing of the gaps under the ridge does not cause ventilation problems, special holes are provided in the profile seals. Thanks to them, this type of seal is characterized by the best degree of breathability (compared to other options). Their service life is about 15 years.
• Universal (soft). They take the form of strips of polyurethane foam, which, due to their softness, after installation, independently take the required shape and fill the existing free space gaps The cellular structure of this type of seal works like a filter: it allows air to pass through (although the degree of transmission leaves much to be desired), but retains raindrops, snow and debris. Manufacturers indicate the service life of products made from polyurethane foam around 15 years.
• Self-expanding (PSUL). Initially they are compressed polyurethane foam tapes impregnated with acrylic. After installation, such seals expand, their thickness increases up to 5 times. The period for complete expansion and acquisition of final size is about 2-5 hours. Sealing tapes of this type have one self-adhesive side with protective strip. During installation, the strip is removed and the tape is glued in place under the ridge. Self-expanding seals are air and water tight. Therefore, to maintain sufficient ventilation of the roof when installing the seal, gaps of 1-2 cm should be left for every 1.5-2 lm. The service life of self-expanding seals is about 20 years.

Despite manufacturers' assurances that the seals allow sufficient quantity air for high-quality ventilation, it has been experimentally confirmed that this is not the case. Therefore, with gentle slopes, when it is impossible to do without a seal under the ridge, it is recommended to combine ridge ventilation with the installation of point “mushroom” type pitch aerators.

Ventilation can also be enhanced, if there are seals, by installing special ridge valves on the ridge.

The sales consultant talks about the types of seals and the features of their application. hardware store:

An alternative to seals is the ridge aero element

Instead of seals, you can use a special aero element to bridge the gaps - ventilation tape rolled into rolls. The middle part of the tape is made of polypropylene fabric (or mesh). The side strips are made of pleated aluminum with a self-adhesive surface.

Unlike seals, the ventilation tape does not become a barrier to ventilation, thanks to the polypropylene layer with high vapor permeability.

Installation of the ventilation tape does not require special construction skills. The roll is unrolled along the ridge line, the protective film is peeled off and the material is pressed tightly against the roof surface. If there is a ridge beam, the tape is initially secured to the beam using nails or construction stapler. Then the side strips are glued to the metal tiles.

Information about the characteristics of the ridge aerator (using the example of the Delta-Eco Roll aero element) and the features of its installation on the roof can be found in the video:

After fastening, the ventilation tape is covered with a ridge, which makes it completely invisible. Appearance The seal is not important for the same reason - the ridge element, after fastening, will hide all its “filling”. Of course, in case of proper installation, which is not difficult to do even on your own.

Technology for installing a ridge on a metal roof

Installation of the ridge strip is carried out on last stage roof structures, when the last shortened rows of metal tiles are laid along the slopes. The installation of the ridge (building up the elements) is carried out towards the direction of the prevailing winds.

In most cases, to attach the ridge strip, you should make additions to the sheathing and install additional ridge boards above the top boards of the step sheathing. The gap between the ridge boards of adjacent slopes should ensure the process of under-roof ventilation; usually it is 70-100 mm (the figure depends on the specific metal tile and the recommendations of its manufacturer).

The thickness of the ridge boards is increased by 10-15 mm compared to the sheathing boards. This is done so that after fastening the ridge does not end up sagging down in relation to the end strip.

There is no clear answer to the question of how to make a ridge on a metal roof. The process of fixing (installing) the ridge element on the roof is carried out according to the instructions of the manufacturers of specific metal tiles. These recommendations do not always coincide exactly, and usually represent a kind of “average” option, more or less suitable for any type of ridge strip and any metal tile profile.

Typically, the following steps are performed during the installation process. First, check the straightness of the ridge axis of the roof (for example, using a stretched cord). The permissible deviation is 2 cm. Large curvature will negatively affect the mounted element, since the walls of the ridge will have to be “adjusted” to the unevenness of the joint of the slopes. Therefore, defects beyond the scope permissible deviation, correct.

Then the ridge elements are prepared. The angle of the ridge strip is adjusted to the angle of connection of the roof slopes. To do this, bend or straighten the plank so that, when free, its mounting flanges correspond to the angle of inclination of the slopes. If the angle of inclination is higher than 45°, the bar will have to be bent too much.

This especially affects semicircular skates, the shape of which changes significantly with such “refinement”. In this case, the standard end cap will have to be adjusted to the modified shape or a homemade cover made of a flat sheet of steel will have to be mounted.

Installation of the ridge begins from one of the ends. The ridge element is mounted on top end strip, releasing its edge outward by 20-30 mm. Parts of a flat ridge (triangular, rectangular) are joined, overlapping each other with an overlap of at least 100 mm. The parts of the round ridge are joined along the stamping lines. On hipped roofs Y or T-shaped pads are installed at the junctions of the ridges of adjacent slopes.

At the same time, the sealant is laid, fixing it under the ridge. If the seal is self-adhesive, then to fix it it is enough to remove the protective film from the adhesive layer and press it to the surface of the ridge or metal tile. If there is no adhesive layer on the seal, you will have to apply the adhesive yourself.

When using a ventilation roll (ridge aero element), the installation changes slightly. The ventilation tape with side self-adhesive parts is laid and glued to the metal tiles first, before installing the ridge strips.

The ridge elements are secured to a sheet of metal tile or to the sheathing using self-tapping screws, screwing them into the wave crest through the wave. It is impossible to violate these recommendations and screw self-tapping screws into the deflection of the wave due to the risk of deformation of the ridge, which will entail a sloppy appearance of the entire roof. During installation, self-tapping screws 4.8 x 35 mm are used - when attaching the ridge to the metal tile, and long self-tapping screws 4.8 x 80 mm - when attaching through the metal tile to the sheathing.

Attaching the ridge strip directly to the sheathing is considered a more reliable option. In this case, the ridge detachment, which is possible in areas with high wind loads, is completely eliminated. At the same time, most metal tile manufacturers in their instructions recommend fastening only to roofing sheets. In any case, the choice of one or another mount is yours.

Some metal tile manufacturers recommend installing the ridge on a pre-fixed ridge beam. This ensures a more reliable installation and absolutely level positioning of the ridge strip. A beam is placed along the edge of the roof (sometimes it is installed on special metal fastenings), 40-50 mm wide. The ridge elements are put on it and screwed to the metal tiles.

After fastening all the elements, check the evenness of the assembled ridge. If there are no deviations, the work is considered completed.

Useful video on the topic

The skate is not an element that should be underestimated. His correct installation guarantees:

• decorative appearance of metal roofing;
• dry under-roof space;
• no condensation;
• adequate ventilation;
• protection against leaks through the ridge.

Therefore, the installation of the ridge must be carried out in compliance with the technology described above, without the slightest disregard for detail. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is advisable to seek help in installing the ridge from qualified roofing specialists.

A material such as corrugated sheeting has long been known to everyone and is used in construction in a variety of roles - it is used to install fences, build garages and sheds, and also cover the roofs of outbuildings, small houses and even large mansions. Corrugated sheeting is produced in a variety of colors, so you can see houses covered not only with sheets of the same color, but also with a combination of shades. which looks very original.

To know how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to carefully study the instructions and then purchase high-quality roofing and consumables, prepare all the necessary tools.

It is very important that you do not need to have special professional skills to cover a roof with this material. The main thing is to comply technological sequence work and not make mistakes that could lead to roof leakage, which will require bringing the coating to perfection.

Advantages and disadvantages of corrugated sheeting as a roofing material

Like any roofing material, corrugated sheeting has its pros and cons, which you need to know before purchasing it.

TO positive qualities This material includes the following:

• The light weight of the corrugated sheet allows you to easily lift it to a height and, if necessary, level it at the installation site.
• Optimal ratio of cost and service life of the material. At high-quality installation The manufacturer sets a minimum service life of 12 ÷ 15 years.
• Easy installation - the material is easily overlapped and screwed with special self-tapping screws.
• The aesthetics of the covering – corrugated sheeting, thanks to the variety of colors, makes the appearance of the house neat and gives it individuality.
• The relief of most sheet models includes special capillary grooves, which are designed to effectively drain water when laying sheets of material overlapping.

Negative qualities corrugated sheets can be called:

• High thermal conductivity of the metal. Therefore, corrugated sheeting will not protect attic space from overheating or low temperatures. If this coating is chosen, good and attic floor, which suggests additional expenses on thermal insulation material and its installation.
• In windy weather, when the wind speed is 15 m/s or higher, any metal coating emits ultrasonic vibrations that negatively affect the human psyche. Therefore, in regions with constant windy weather, it is better to give preference to roofing coverings that do not vibrate in the wind.
• Low sound insulation. If the roof is not supplied with heat and soundproofing material, the sounds of drops or hailstones falling on the coating will be clearly audible in the house.

Choice corrugated sheeting for roofing

Corrugated sheets can be made from galvanized metal sheets that do not have a color coating. Such sheets are most often used to create temporary or permanent canopies, or to cover outbuildings. It is also often used for fencing construction sites. Unpainted corrugated sheeting has a fairly low cost, but is not suitable for coating residential buildings, since it has low performance characteristics and not very attractive in terms of aesthetics in appearance.

It is very popular, which has a decorative protective coating made of polymer compositions. This material is more durable and can withstand quite serious loads. Of course this is — at correct installation, which largely depends on the slope angle of the roof slopes.

Several types of corrugated sheeting are produced that have a protective and decorative polymer coating:

• Bearing (N) - intended for covering the roof, ceilings and canopies.
• Wall ( WITH) - used for the construction of fences, hangars, garages.
• Universal (NS) - suitable for roofing, installation of fences, construction of garages, utility facilities, etc.

To cover the roof it is better to use a load-bearing one, but as a last resort You can use any of the above types.

In addition, this material varies in height and number of waves. The height of the wave (corrugation) is indicated by a number that is placed next to the marking of the type of corrugated sheet. For example, several models are presented in table:

Marking	Appearance of corrugated sheets	Application	Corrugation height in mm	Metal thickness in mm	Usable width in mm
C10		Wall	10	0,5; 0,6; 0,7	1100
C18		Wall	18	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
S21		Wall	21	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
		Roofing Wall	35	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
C44		Wall	44	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8; 0,9; 1,0	1000
H60		Roofing	60	0,7; 0,8; 0,9; 1,0	845

A metal sheet of corrugated sheets can have one-sided or two-sided coating, but no matter what it is purchased for, it is better to choose a material that is protected on both sides.

The coating consists of numerous protective layers; the diagram below clearly shows which layers cover the outer and inner sides.

External side of roofing material:

• The basis for corrugated sheets is steel sheet.
• The steel is coated with a layer of zinc.
• Next comes the anti-corrosion coating.
• A primer layer is applied to it, which serves as a preparation for the polymer.
• Then comes the colored polymer coating.
• Often applied to a color polymer coating protective film(polyurethane), which will keep it from fading and peeling.
• For transportation and storage of corrugated sheeting, it can be additionally covered with a film coating on top, which is removed after installation.

The inner side of the corrugated sheet is covered in the same sequence with exactly the same materials, but on some models there is no colored polymer film on the inside, while on others the sheet is coated equally on both sides. The latter, of course, have a higher cost, but their service life is much longer.

The color range of corrugated sheets is quite varied. According to the most conservative estimates, the color range is represented by no less than 30 shades, so choosing the right one will not be difficult. The color layer on the surface can be applied using powder or using special technology polymer coating.

If we summarize the selection criteria, we can list the following:

• To make sure that the material is of high quality and produced under professional conditions, you should ask the seller for a product certificate. If it is missing, then it is better to contact another store.
• The markings of the material are checked, indicating its purpose, thickness and wave height.
• The appearance of the material is assessed. It is necessary to pay attention to the evenness of the sheet, the absence of defects in the coloring and protective layer, the same shade of all sheets, and the uniformity of the coating. Appearance can tell a lot about the quality of corrugated sheeting - if upon inspection you find peeling of the coloring layer or burrs on the cuts, then it is better to refuse the purchase.
• Another criterion is to check the corrugated sheet for bending - quality material should be elastic, and if you try to bend it, it tends to return to its previous position. In this case, no trace of bending should appear on the coating.
• External type decorative covering- polymer or powder. The most high-quality coatings Corrugated sheets are matte and regular polyester and plastisol. Coating details must also be included in the product certificate.
• Material price. We must remember that you should not choose the cheapest material - it is unlikely to be of high quality. Moreover, all corrugated sheets have a very affordable price.

When the material is purchased, it is necessary to correctly deliver it to the construction site, and also carefully, without damage, unload it and raise it to a height.

How to avoid damage during transportation and installation of material?

It is important to highlight this issue because damage to the corrugated sheeting during its delivery, unloading and installation will significantly reduce the service life of the future roof.

This material is made from steel sheet, which is given relief using cold rolling in special equipment.

This material, laid as a roof, can withstand high wind and snow loads, but during its transportation, loading and unloading, the sheet coating may be subjected to unnecessary mechanical stress, which will lead to its damage. To prevent this from happening, certain rules for transporting, storing, carrying and lifting sheets must be followed.

• Transportation of corrugated sheets is carried out by trucks. The sheets must be stacked on a rigid base of the body or on a special metal frame, which is fixed in the body at an angle.

• After laying the roofing material in the car, it must be securely secured with slings to avoid the sheets rubbing against each other when the car is moving, as this is what can lead to damage protective coating.
• A vehicle transporting corrugated sheets must move at a speed of no more than 80 km/h.
• It is very important to ensure that unloading roofing was carried out with the utmost care. If unloading will be done manually, it is advisable that each sheet is removed from the stack separately, transferred and placed in the place prepared for them. It is best to prepare a flooring of boards and plywood, covered with polyethylene on top.
• It is necessary to ensure that none of the sheets are bent during transportation, since it will not be possible to return it to its original state, which means that when covering, gaps will form between the sheets that will disrupt the evenness and integrity of the roof.
• To lift corrugated sheeting onto the roof without causing harm to it, you also need to do it correctly:

- to accurately lift the material, you will need logs that are installed at an angle to the roof - these will be a kind of “rails” for the convenience of lifting sheets;

— sheets rise to a height of only one piece at a time;

— the installation of corrugated sheeting on the roof itself can be done by two craftsmen, but lifting the roofing material to a height is best done by three people — this is additional insurance for the integrity of the material and the safety of the work.

Now a few words about how not to damage the corrugated sheet during installation.

The maximum risk of damage to the material occurs if it is covered big square roofs, since during the installation and fastening process you will have to walk on the already laid roof. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right shoes for work - they should not only be comfortable, but also have a soft elastic sole that will not damage protective layer and will not slip on the roof surface. You can step on the fixed roofing material only between the ribs and only in those places where the guides pass, especially if there is a large step between them.

To ensure installation proceeds accurately, without unnecessary damage to the roofing material, you need to use only quality tools. To work you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Roulette.
• Scissors for cutting metal up to 0.6 mm thick.
• Marker for marks.
• Level.
• Electric drill.
• Rubber hammer.
• Jigsaw or electric scissors.
• A soft brush for sweeping away metal shavings.

It is forbidden to cut corrugated sheets with a grinder. The optimal tool for this is electric scissors.

Features of installing corrugated sheeting as a roof

In order for the installation of roofing material to be successful, it is necessary to take into account some features of the work.

Influence of roof slope on installation

Much in the process of coating roofing material depends on the roof slope. It is very important to correctly position the boards or bars of the sheathing, as well as maintain the required amount of overlap of the corrugated sheets.

• If the slope of the slope is 5 ÷ 10 degrees, then the sheathing is made continuous or the slats are nailed at a distance of no more than 5 ÷ 7 mm from each other.

The overlap of the sheets in this case should be horizontal in two waves, and the top row on the bottom row should be at least 300 mm. Moreover with such a small slope of the slope, the gaps between the corrugated sheets are most often filled with sealant, since there is still a risk of water flowing between them, especially in windy weather.

• When the slope of the roof slope is 10 ÷ 15 degrees, the distance between the sheathing bars is 400 ÷ 450 mm, and adjacent sheets are laid overlapping on one wave. The top row should overlap the bottom by 200 ÷ 220 mm.
• If the roof slope is more than 15 degrees, the sheathing bars are secured on the rafters on distance of 550 ÷ 600 mm. The overlap of sheets laid next to each other is made in one wave, and the top row overlaps the bottom row by 170 ÷ 200 mm.

To make it convenient to mark and fasten the sheathing, cut out the right size, for example, 600 mm, which will help to install the frame under the roofing much faster.

The procedure for securing sheets

It is very important to follow the sequence of laying sheets if the coating consists of two or more horizontal rows of corrugated sheets.

• Laying of roofing material starts from the eaves. The outermost sheet is set strictly according to construction level, since the correct installation of all other roof elements will depend on its evenness. In addition, the laid sheets are aligned along the lower edge of the overhang - if this method of alignment is excluded, the lower edge of the roof will be uneven.

• Upon completion of the installation of the first row, fastening the second begins on the same side of the roof from which the first was mounted. However, some craftsmen also practice a different approach - with sequential laying of the bottom and then the top sheet, or with a “ladder” laying - for example, two sheets below - one on top, that is, the top row is constantly “lagging behind” by 1 sheet.

The best option is if the length of the sheet is sufficient for the entire roof slope

• If it is possible to purchase sheets, equal to length slope, then you need to give preference to this option - this will reduce installation time, and the roof will be more reliably protected from leaks, since there will simply be no horizontal overlaps of the sheets.

Rules for fastening corrugated sheets

This is done using special self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer and rubber gasket. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the screws are usually matched to the color of the base material.

• If the roof is covered with sheets that are continuous along the length of the slope, then the first sheet is temporarily fixed at the top below the roof ridge by 50 mm and at the bottom, on the overhang. The sheet should protrude beyond the edge of the overhang by 40 ÷ 50 mm. The upper distance left open will become a ventilation gap and will later be covered with a ridge element on top.
• The second sheet is laid overlapping with the first by one or two waves, depending on the slope, aligned with the overhang of the first sheet and screwed with a self-tapping screw.

• Subsequent sheets are laid and aligned along the overhang and fastened together at the crest of the wave. They are fastened from the cornice to the ridge with a screw-in step of 500 mm.

• When 3-5 sheets of corrugated sheeting are laid and they are aligned along the edge of the overhang, they are permanently secured to the sheathing. The sheets are attached to the sheathing at the bottom of the wave, immediately after the sheets overlap, and then, passing one wave, along the bottom of the second.
• If two or more horizontal rows are laid, then in the strip of their overlap they are secured with self-tapping screws along the bottom of each wave.

If corrugated board is installed with polymer coating, then after screwing in the screws, it is recommended to remove the resulting metal shavings to avoid damaging the protective coating of the roofing material. It is completely swept away from the coating using a soft brush.

It is also necessary to stipulate the requirement that under no circumstances should corrugated sheeting be secured to the sheathing with nails or rivets, since such fasteners will not hold the sheet when a high wind load occurs. The wind can easily tear off the roof covering, leaving the nails in the sheathing bars.

Installation of additional elements

In addition to corrugated sheets, the roofing structure also contains other elements that help protect the structure from the penetration of precipitation into the attic. It should be noted that the presence of even one formed or unclosed gap in the roof can seriously damage the ceiling, as well as the walls and ceiling of the house.

TO additional elements roofing includes ridge, valleys, lining of pipes passing through the roof, eaves boards and others.

Skate attachment

After completing the installation of the corrugated sheets, at the highest point of the roof, its edges are covered with a ridge.

The ridge is secured with the same screws, through the top of the corrugated sheeting waves, in increments of 200 ÷ 300 mm. To make the fastening reliable, when installing the sheathing, it is necessary to provide two longitudinal boards on both sides of the ridge in advance.

When installing the ridge, it cannot be pressed tightly against the highest point of the roof - between it and inner surface the ridge element must remain ventilation gap.

If a semicircular type of ridge is installed, then special plugs are installed and secured on its end sides.

Since the ridge is assembled from individual elements, they are also overlapped. Simple ridges shaped like an angle should have an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm, and semicircular (tiled) ridges should have an overlap of 100 ÷ 120 mm, aligning them along the stiffeners.

Use it in our article.

Finishing the gable part of the roof from corrugated sheets

To eliminate the possibility that the corrugated sheeting will be torn off by the wind from the end side, the gap between the sheets and the sheathing is closed with wind angles or planks, which are placed on one side of the corrugated board, and the other on the first rafter facing the end of the building. The plank is also secured with self-tapping screws in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm.

Cladding of the end part of the roof. 1 — wind strip, 2 — screws

Since the planks are also made up of individual elements, they are laid with an overlap of 70 ÷ 100 mm.

Attaching the cornice

The cornice is installed before the base roofing material is laid. It plays both a decorative role, covering the side connections of the rafter system, and a functional one, preventing splashes when water flows from the roof into the drain from falling on the wooden parts. In addition, brackets for laying the gutter are attached under the eaves or on top of it.

• Most often, drainage brackets are first secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other. They are lowered below the sheathing by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
• Then the gutter is installed on the brackets.
• After this, the cornice strip is installed and nailed or screwed to the bottom board of the sheathing.

• Corrugated sheets are laid on top cornice strip, and must be aligned in such a way that water flowing from them directly falls into the fixed gutter

Installation of the valley

Installation of a valley is not required for every roof, but only where it has complex configuration with profile fractures. If there is a junction of two planes facing downwards, then you cannot do without installing this element.

The endow consists of two parts - internal and external.

• The inner part of the valley is laid before the roofing is laid. It is attached to the junction of two roof planes and fixed to the sheathing roofing screws in increments of 350÷500 mm. The individual parts of the long valley are laid, starting from the cornice and rising to the ridge, with an overlap of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.

• After the corrugated sheets are laid (with a shift to the inner part of the valley by 80 ÷ 100 mm), a layer of porous sealant is laid between them and the inner part of the valley. This material will prevent leakage during rain. Then the corrugated sheeting through the bottom of the waves in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm, together with the lower part of the valley, is screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
• After this, the edges of the corrugated sheets are applied silicone sealant, and fits on it outer part valley. Just like the internal one, it is composite, so its parts are overlapped by 100 mm, starting installation from the cornice and coating the joints with sealant.

• After this, the outer part of the valley is screwed with self-tapping screws to the corrugated sheet.

Fastening snow guard

Snow guard- this is an element that will prevent sudden snow from falling off the roof spring period, holding it and giving it time to melt and drain or evaporate.

Snow guards There are two types - these are peculiar strips in the form of corners, scrolling in a checkerboard pattern, or horizontal tubular barriers installed in special brackets.

The brackets are attached to the surface of the corrugated sheet at a distance of 900 ÷ 1000 mm. Then special tubes with threads along the edges are inserted into the holes in them, onto which, after installation, metal plugs are screwed.

Both brackets and strips snow guards are attached through corrugated sheeting to the sheathing. When fastening the planks, they are screwed through the top of the wave, so gaps are formed between the plank and the corrugated sheet, through which melt water will flow out.

Wall profile covering the joint between the wall and the corrugated sheet

If a corrugated roof is adjacent to a wall, then the joint between them must be closed to avoid leakage. For this purpose, there is a special shaped strip - a wall profile, which is mounted on the wall using anchors, and onto the metal profile with self-tapping screws screwed into the crest of the wave.

Silicone sealant can be used to seal the joint between the plank and the wall. In addition, it is advisable to make a groove in the wall to hide the upper curved edge of this profile in it. After installation, the groove can be sealed, for example, cement mortar or tile adhesive for outdoor work.

Seals for corrugated sheets

Seals are used in roofing works for closing gaps at the junctions of the coating with the wall, in places of “fractures” hipped roofs and under the ridge.

Seals usually have an adhesive layer on one side, covered with parchment, which is removed before installation and the material is glued in the right place.

Designing the passage of a pipe through corrugated sheeting

If the chimney pipe of a stove or fireplace passes through the corrugated sheet covering, or ventilation duct, then you will have to work on it. But before do work By exterior decoration joints, must be installed around chimney internal apron, which mounted before laying on the corrugated sheeting.

An apron is installed around the pipe from separate metal adjacent profiles. On the walls of the chimney, using a marker, mark a line along which a groove will be punched to bend the upper edge of the adjacent profiles into it. Then it must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and washed with water.

After this, the so-called tie - stripe metal sheet with flanges, which are mounted from the pipe to the cornice. The tie is necessary to drain water accumulating behind the pipe during rain.

After this, the lower part of the apron must be secured for sealant, on sheathing and lay a tie on the sides of the pipe, and install the upper edge in the groove, also on the sealant. When installing parts of the adjacent strip, you must ensure that they overlap each other by 150 mm.

After interior work will be completed, installation of corrugated sheets is underway. When the roofing material is laid around the chimney pipe, the outer flashing strips are installed, which are secured to the pipe and to the ridges of the corrugated sheeting on the roof.

General sequence of roof covering with corrugated sheeting

So, knowing how to install all the additional elements and the corrugated sheeting itself, you can consider the sequence of work on covering the roof with this roofing material.

• The first step rafter system covered . It is laid from the eaves, overlapping the slope horizontally by 100 ÷ 150 mm. The film is secured using a stapler with staples on the rafter legs.
• Counter-lattice bars are nailed to the rafters on top of the film, which will create the necessary ventilation gap between the film and the roofing material. The size of the bars should be 400 × 500 mm, that is, the ventilation gap will be 400 mm.
• The sheathing of the slopes is arranged perpendicular to the counter-lattice. Here you need to provide additional ridge boards - they are placed on both sides of the roof ridge. Also, additional boards or bars are mounted around the chimney pipe and at the joints of the roof planes to secure the valley (inward corner) or ridge element (outward corner).
• Next, wind boards are fixed to the gable sides of the roof.
• Then the brackets for the drain gutter are attached to the bottom board of the sheathing, and the gutter itself is laid.
• The cornice strip is nailed to the outer board of the sheathing.
• The next step is to secure the inner part of the valley, if it is necessary in the roof structure.
• Then you can proceed to waterproofing the chimney pipe. A tie is laid along its edges, going to the cornice - it is attached on top of the cornice strip. Next, install and sealed elements of the internal apron adjacent to the pipe.
• Having dealt with the internal additional elements that should be under the roofing material, we proceed to the installation of corrugated sheets. To pass the pipe in one or two sheets, an opening of the required size is measured and cut using electric scissors. The edges of the corrugated sheeting should cover parts of the apron attached to the sheathing and come close to the pipe. It is possible to leave a gap of 50 ÷ 70 mm.
• Next, at the junctions of the two roof sections, the outer part of the valley is fixed.
• After this, the metal elements of the ridge are fixed to the highest point of the roof.
• The last step is to attach the windproof corner.

So, as you can see, there is nothing supernatural in laying such a roof. Having studied the sequence of work and the technology for their execution, enlisting the assistance of reliable assistants, acquiring required material Having prepared the tools, you can safely begin covering the roof with corrugated sheets on your own.

And at the end of the publication - a useful video with the intricacies of the process of installing a roof from corrugated sheets.