Wardrobes, chests of drawers, beds and other cabinet furniture presented in stores have a wide the lineup. Most products are made from chipboard, but you can make a high-quality cabinet from chipboard with your own hands. This approach allows you to create original model By individual project, which costs less, and the quality of workmanship depends on the efforts.

Similar articles:

Types and advantages of chipboard cabinets

There are models with hinged, folding doors or sliding wardrobes. The last two options are suitable for small rooms, because they save space in front of the cabinet.

Each product differs in design and content, shape and purpose. A wardrobe made of chipboard is often equipped with shelves, drawers and compartments for storing outerwear.

This type of furniture performs the function of a dressing room and at the same time takes up a lot of space. less space. Chipboard is also used for small wardrobes, which are used for storing children's wardrobes.

Cabinets for organizing and storing tools are often made from this material. household appliances. The products have a simple appearance and most often have a laconic rectangular shape without decorative elements. Cabinets for kitchen utensils can be made in any style.

Chipboard – universal material, which means that furniture made from it has a number of advantages:

Affordable price.	The raw material for chipboard is not solid wood, but shavings, which are mixed with special resins and pressed. The material is cheaper than solid wood, but its characteristics are not inferior to natural boards.
Strength.	Rigidity, resistance to deformation - this makes particle boards universal raw material for making furniture.
Durability.	Furniture made from chipboard has a long service life. With proper care, it can last more than 10 years. This is due to the material’s resistance to temperature changes. With appropriate treatment, the slabs become moisture resistant.
Variety of textures and colors.	Chipboards of homogeneous structure. Their surface has no knots or roughness. The material can be treated with veneer - laminated in any color. For cabinets, a wood-patterned finish is used.

Self-created design

Creating a cabinet with your own hands begins with developing a design diagram. To do this, it is necessary to determine exactly where the product will be installed. Then, based on the parameters of the room, you should calculate the size and decide on the filling of the cabinet: drawers, shelves and compartments. Having planned the designs, proceed to the drawing.

Measurements and drawing

The first requirement for how to make a cabinet on your own is to draw up a work plan. Initial stage is the creation of drawings of the desired model according to pre-compiled dimensions and diagram. If carpentry work is being carried out for the first time and a problem arises, how to calculate the dimensions finished product and its filling, to create a drawing you can use a special computer program, into which you just need to enter the initial data. Experienced craftsmen create drawings on paper.

The product drawing is extremely important when creating furniture. All parameters must be accurately compiled. The figure must show the number and location of shelves, their height and depth, the presence and dimensions of pull-out elements, etc.

The final result will depend on how accurately the drawing is made, since cutting the material into component parts is carried out by transferring the drawing to chipboard.

Furniture maker's tools

To make a cabinet from chipboard you will need a set of tools:

1. jigsaw or a circular saw;
2. screwdriver;
3. drill and wood bits;
4. flat and Phillips screwdriver;
5. wood hacksaw;
6. screws;
7. roulette;
8. Ruler and pencil.

This is the minimum set of tools with which you can create a cabinet at home.

Preparation of material and accessories

The correct choice of material plays an important role. There are two types of chipboard - E1 and E2. The type labeled E1 is more environmentally friendly. E2 boards are prohibited for the production of children's furniture.

Chipboard has different thickness. Thus, the thickness of chipboard for a wardrobe or a wardrobe with a hinged mechanism must be at least 16 mm. The material can be either laminated or “naked”. The second option will cost noticeably less, and you can add color to it using self-adhesive film.

Before starting sawing, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate fittings. To secure the parts, special wood screws are used. They have a peculiar cap with a hexagonal hole inside.

To make the places with screws on the surface of the furniture look beautiful, they are covered with plastic plugs in the color of the background material. Parts should be purchased in advance.

Additionally, you will need furniture end tape. The edge allows you to hide unsightly roughness on the open ends of the elements of the finished product.

Other fittings are also purchased in specialized stores - handles, guides, furniture hinges, etc.

Are there many things and pieces of furniture in your home that you can easily discard? Surely enough. However, they do not include such a piece of furniture as a wardrobe.

After all, this is where you store most of your clothes, towels and bed linen. And therefore it is almost impossible to do without it.

Of course, it is possible to replace it with cabinets and chests of drawers. But their number will be so large that the space of the room will be completely cluttered. Not everyone can afford this.

Many people live in quite small apartments, in which every centimeter free space must be used rationally, so do not forget that you can order modern wardrobes with delivery and assembly from our partners.

But often the cost of such important products is unreasonably high. And therefore, some people are forced to refuse to buy cabinets.

But experts are confident that a way out of this situation can be found. For example, make this product yourself.

If you are wondering how to make a cabinet with your own hands, then we recommend that you read this article. In it we will look in detail at the simplest example of assembly, which even a novice carpenter without experience can handle.

Cabinet detailing

To make the cabinet we will use a material such as chipboard. The thickness of one of its boards is 18 mm. In addition to the main material, a self-adhesive melamine edge with a thickness of about 0.5 mm will also be used. The product will be equipped with a standard sliding system for facades.

You can purchase the edge at a furniture store. It is worth noting that to construct a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you may need a special sliding mechanism.

Most often, it is not easy to find something similar in a regular store. Then you will need to order it. However, even in this case, facade system will cost you much less than if you purchased a finished product.

The cabinet that will be considered as an example has a height of 2288 mm and its width is 1166 mm.

Required tools and materials

Before you begin building your cabinet, you should make sure you have everything on hand. necessary materials and tools. You can find out the number of boards and parts if you carefully examine the cabinet drawing, which is presented to your attention below.

A standard set of tools required for cabinet carpentry includes: drill, level, hammer drill, measuring tape, hammer, glue, hacksaw and fasteners.

Self-tapping screws and dowels act as connecting elements. Please note that you should select a hacksaw that is suitable for both wood and metal.

The rods that will be used for hangers must be sawn off from a single structure. Their diameter should not exceed 22 mm for the declared dimensions of the product.

If you are not confident that you can make them correctly yourself, then purchasing them is the best option. You can buy them in a store that specializes in selling furniture fittings.

You can also buy pens in the store. When purchasing them, pay attention to the design. It must correspond not only to the product being manufactured, but also to the overall interior design.

Note!

Manufacturing stages

At the first stage, you need to prepare all the details. Pay attention to the photo of a do-it-yourself cabinet, which is presented below. A circular saw was used to create it, as it made it possible to cut the boards most accurately and accurately.

The second step is to prepare the edges. To glue them, you need to use a regular iron and follow the instructions.

At the third stage, grinding is performed. With its help, you will get rid of any roughness that exists after cutting. To do this, you can use regular sandpaper with fine grains.

At the fourth stage, you should begin collecting boxes. An example of assembly is shown in the figure.

At the fifth stage, the entire structure is assembled.

Note!

It is worth noting that assembling the cabinet itself is no different from assembling the drawers. After all, the cabinet itself differs from the drawers only in its size.

In order to make a confirmatory tie, you will need to use a hex bit. If you don’t have one on hand, you can use an ordinary hand key. However, this will require more time to work.

Fastening the guides under the doors should be done using self-tapping screws, which have a size of 4 by 16 mm. The distance between the front edge of the bottom and the sides of the product should also be measured locally.

Be sure to ensure that the product is equipped quality system, which will eliminate the possibility of cracks. This is extremely important if you plan to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, since any cracks will be noticeable.

Photo of a do-it-yourself cabinet

Note!

It's time to throw it away old furniture, which does not fit all things and takes up half the room! An excellent alternative to a bulky wardrobe is a wardrobe. It will unload space at any time small apartment and will be a great addition to modern interior. You can make this design yourself. To do this, you need to correctly develop a drawing and have carpentry skills.

Options for new furniture

Any wardrobe is selected exclusively for the room, taking into account its features: footage, configuration, location, arrangement of the rest of the furniture. However, there are three most popular types of furniture of this type:

• Built-in wardrobe. As a rule, it is located in a niche.
• Corner cupboard. Occupies a corner of the room, saving space.
• Walk-in closet. Requires a lot of space, but at the same time fits almost all things.

Dimensions

Before starting work, you need to decide on the dimensions future design made with your own hands. Create a drawing based on them. It is recommended to use standard sizes.

1. Depth. The optimal depth of such furniture together with hinged doors is 60 cm. This way, hangers with clothes will fit freely in the closet (for the top one, 55 cm is required, for the regular one - 50 cm). If the cabinet is planned with sliding doors, then it’s worth adding 10 cm to the coupe design.
2. Width. Minimum size in this case, it is determined independently, but you should not make a structure with a width of less than 40 cm.
3. Height. Theoretically, the height of the furniture can be any, but from a practical point of view, 240 cm is an acceptable height. If you need a higher wardrobe, you can make a mezzanine for it with your own hands.

Material selection

The material from which the cabinet will be made plays an important role, as it determines the entire structure.

• Lining and wood are fashionable and popular materials for home furniture. But the humidity in the niches will be high, so they can warp and peel. If you need a wardrobe for clothes made from such materials, then they should be soaked in hot drying oil or water-polymer emulsion,
• Drywall. Great to work with, but difficult to make into a cabinet. The material for this design will be heavy, fragile and fragile.
• Laminate, MDF, fiberboard. Perfect for work. They are resistant to temperature fluctuations and can be sawed well without cracking. These materials should be taken of high or medium density.

Calculation for the structure

The most difficult thing when creating furniture with your own hands is to produce correct calculations, according to which the wardrobe will be assembled, as well as correctly cutting out the selected material. Let's take as a basis a wardrobe with parameters 2020x625x2320 mm made from a sheet of high-strength chipboard.

The cabinet consists of the following parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 – vertically standing parts, 6 – top part, 7 – lower part, 8, 9, 10 – shelves.

Options:

• End posts (1, 4) – 2288=2320–32 mm (chipboard sheet thickness in the lower and upper parts); depth – 625 mm. Total 2288x625 mm.
• Upper and lower parts (6, 7) – 2020x625 mm.
• Positions 2, 3 – central posts, their size depends on the height where the hanger bar will be attached; usually it is 1900 mm. Thus, the height is 1900 mm, width is 525 mm, plus 100 mm is left for the door opening system.
• Part 5 – size 372 mm.
• Mezzanine shelf (9) – 1988x525 mm (calculated as follows: the length of the structure minus the total thickness of the chipboard sheets, depth and space for the sliding system).
• Side shelves (8) – 450x525 mm.
• Shelf (10) – 1056 mm.
• The rear wall is equal to the parameters of the cabinet - 2020x2320 mm. It can be made not from a single sheet, but from pieces, but divide them according to the size of the central posts.

You will also need motion systems for doors. There are 2 options: aluminum and steel - both are strong and reliable.

Creation instructions

Required Tools:

• electric drill with a hammer drill,
• screwdriver,
• saw for working with wood,
• building level,
• hammer, tape measure, carpenter's meter, square,
• spatulas - wide and narrow,
• paint brushes.

Step 1. Cutting

The easiest way is to give chipboard sheet to have it cut by a professional rather than doing it yourself. The fact is that even a bevel of one millimeter will lead to distortion. Moreover, some sawn parts need to be edged.

If you have decided to make the cut yourself, then it is important to pay attention to following features:

• For the strength and aesthetics of the furniture, its back wall should be placed flush, but certainly not placed on the frame. To do this, when sawing, 4 frame elements are made (2 sidewalls, bottom, top panels).
• Dimensions of internal elements ( vertical stand, shelves) should be smaller than the outer ones (sides, top, bottom).

You can also do the edging yourself. The edge is applied to the end with the wrong side and ironed along the entire length with a heated iron in the “steaming” mode. After this, the area should be ironed with a dry cloth and left for a while to cool.

Step 2. Assembly

First of all, the holes in the body are outlined. Ties and dowels will be installed in them. The holes in the ends of the shelves should be made at right angles to the floor and located strictly in the center. After this, you can proceed to assembling the frame. It is better to carry it out in the same room where the cabinet will be located, so as not to have to worry about moving it later.

1. The left side panel is placed on the floor. Shelves and clamps of the left half are installed vertically into it. On top of the shelves, which are fixed vertically, a middle stand-divider is placed.
2. Now the resulting structure can be placed vertically, having previously secured the bottom. It bolts to the B-pillar. After this, the top is secured and also connected to the middle pillar.
3. The right compartment shelves and latches are attached to the B-pillar. The shelves are installed vertically to the right side. At this moment, the hand-made structure is tested for strength. If necessary, the fastenings are tightened.
4. The body is turned over with the front part facing down. The structure is fastened with clamps and has become rigid. In this position, the rear part of the cabinet is attached to the body using a furniture stapler. If all calculations were carried out correctly, then the chipboard sheet will lie exactly in the milled grooves of the sidewalls, and will also adjoin the top and bottom sheets.
5. Furniture “ears” are placed on the back wall, which will ensure complete adherence of the furniture to the wall. The wardrobe can be put back in place. It is leveled using special pads.

Step 3. Securing the doors

If the cabinet is perfectly in place, it is smooth, without distortions, then another stage of work begins - making the doors. The best option- make overhead doors. Their surface will cover the ends of the frame - convenient and practical. It is recommended to order such doors from a specialist, but first calculate the size. It is worth considering the gap distance from the floor to the bottom - approximately 5 mm (it is important that the door does not ride on the floor or scratch it), as well as the gap between the doors when they are in the closed position - 1-2 mm. These are the parameters that overlay doors should have. The hinges for them will be standard - 35 mm. Please note: parallel door hinges should not fall into the free spaces between the fixed shelves. In this case, the loops will not connect. After the doors are hung on the wardrobe, shock absorbers are installed round shape to the ends of the body. This will ensure that the doors close without impact.

You can install mirrors in the doors. Only they should be acrylic; other material for chipboard will be very heavy. To do this, you need to make the required size holes, both in the doors and in the glass. For reliability, it is better to mount the mirror not only on special fasteners, but also on double-sided tape.

Step 4. The final stage is the filling.

Rods, shelf holders, and shelves are attached to them. A simple and cheap way to attach shelves is to use a piece of regular plinth. It can be either floor or ceiling. The main thing is what it is made of. It is recommended to use medium hardness plinth. Will do MDF plinth. So that the shelf fasteners are not visible, part of the baseboard should be less than the depth of the shelf itself, by a third, and the end should generally be cut off at an angle. The wardrobe is ready.

Step 5. Interior lighting

If desired, you can install lighting in the wardrobe. What is better to make it out of? Inner Light? Low-power 12 V halogen lamps are suitable. They do not heat up and will not dry out the material. Power is supplied via an AC/DC adapter socket with double insulated wires. 220 V wiring must not be allowed into the wardrobe.

Having understood our drawings and understanding which part belongs to what, we begin the assembly.

Having selected the diameter of the drill for the holes for the comformats, take the drill in your hands and begin drilling the holes. Drill holes symmetrically to avoid damaging appearance closet

1. Using a screwdriver, assemble the cabinet frame onto the comformats.

1. Next, you need to strengthen the doors with canopies (if the door system is ordinary) or screw in guides (if you have sliding doors).

1. Then, in the places where there will be shelves and drawers, make markings for shelf supports and drawer guides. The markings must be precise so that the shelves and drawers are not awry, but run parallel.

1. After marking, drill the corresponding holes and screw the shelf supports and drawer guides.

1. After assembling the cabinet, bring its appearance to the ideal. As you can see, there is a missing edge at the chipboard seams. Take an iron and a towel. Carefully place the edge on the chipboard and iron it through the towel.

1. After gluing the edge, take a sharp knife in your hands and carefully, slowly, begin to cut off the excess edge.

1. Finally, put the plugs on the comformats.

Now we can congratulate you! You have become the owner of a beautiful handmade wardrobe.

Using these instructions and your imagination, you can make your own wardrobe with lighting inside, with built-in lamps, or with a regular mirror on the doors. Once you have the courage, you can create a cabinet of any design and complexity. As you can see, there is nothing difficult about this!

Comments12

• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• anonymous anonymous
• 
  

More on the topic

• February 27, 2009 at 4:05 pm
• February 10, 2017 at 06:00
• April 19, 2010 at 08:59

Kitchens and wardrobes are almost the easiest types of furniture to assemble for novice craftsmen (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture themselves.

tree in pure form are no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated laminated chipboard). Most often, these boards have a thickness of 16 mm; chipboards with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm can also be found on sale. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

Cutting laminated chipboard produced on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, so when poor defense soon the ends may swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can only be glued on a special machine, so it is done immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-shaped profile - inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm chipboard with PVC edging 2 mm. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

By standard sizes you can easily navigate: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high ones wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since facades serve mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge; they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

MDF facades

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the base. Typically, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades- high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. IN Lately Super glossy acrylic plastic is especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Wood and veneer facades - suitable for amateurs natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

• • Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, and has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. Smooth side The sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to mount HDF on furniture stapler, but you can’t do that. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in tall cabinet or in boxes with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Tabletops

Table top – horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as in cheap dining rooms, the tabletop is made of the same laminated chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops have green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. Correct kitchen countertop must have a drip tray that will prevent the flowing liquid from getting onto the facades and drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the cut edge. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles ( end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strip, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

One more element - decorative corner, which closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and requires special care due to high porosity. But artificial stone does not have such disadvantages; it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops– high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be hanging.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience stress on the fracture (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware ( hardware), which are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners - a popular but outdated look furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.

Furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. They are usually attached with screws.
  • Legs – comfortable in rooms where work is done frequently wet cleaning floors, for example in the kitchen. Any wood, especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate from daily contact with water. In addition, the legs can be used to level furniture on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. It is glued to the top and bottom of the cabinet door or end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, unless the manufacturer has made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of door opening. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and seating depth. For glass doors Separate hinges are sold; glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

Among the inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, and among the serious global manufacturers, the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and slides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If you want to beautiful facade, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the drawer. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely; a heavy drawer in the more than half-open position may simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides,” can exactly double the length. They have many balls inside, like bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. All that remains is to install the façade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back wall), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). Internal filling can be anything: regular shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

Main element wardrobe – sliding doors. You can’t save on them; you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic products in specialized stores. sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

A sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame into which they insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several such materials, which are separated aluminum profile. It is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m in width.

Standard profiles designed for a sheet thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, put a silicone seal on the edge of the mirror. To prevent broken glass from injuring anyone in the event of an impact, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the reverse side.

The doors move along guides; they are installed at the top and bottom. Lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the right approach homemade furniture It turns out cheaper and better quality than what is displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the characteristics of the room.