How to install hinges on a door - do-it-yourself installation of different canopies. Do-it-yourself door hinges Installing hidden hinges on the door

Every home craftsman should know how to install hinges on a door. High-quality functioning directly depends on the correct installation of these small parts. interior designs.

Many of us, when choosing, don’t even think about what great value have loops for such structures. We are sure that the design of the door leaf and the reliability of the purchased frame are much more important, and everything else is trifles. This approach to choosing a door is incorrect. A canvas without well-chosen awnings will be just a blank. There's no point in it. Only after installing the hinges does the door turn into a functional structure.

Hinges for interior doors

There are five types door awnings, which are most often used these days. Before you install the hinges with your own hands, interior door, you need to understand their design. The specifics of the latter determine the features of the installation of canopies. Below are the common types of loops:

  1. Card (otherwise called straight). The simplest canopies, equipped with special plates on the sides.
  2. Angular. In essence, they are the same card loops, from which they differ only in the shape of the (corner) plates. Such canopies are usually placed on interior doors of a pendulum design.
  3. Hidden. Hinges mounted on expensive products. Hidden canopies have a special hinge that is recessed into door leaf.
  4. Screw-in. Such products do not have plates. Instead, there are pins on the rotating axis. Roll-in awnings are ideal for lightweight canvases.
  5. Italian. They have a hinge with a special design. Such hinges are usually mounted on doors made in Europe.

Canopies for interior structures are also divided into universal, left- and right-handed. The first of these can be placed on any side of the canvas. According to the installation method, hinges are divided into mortise (they form a single surface with the door, as they are mounted in recesses prepared in advance), overhead (placed directly on top of the door structure) and screw-in (they are screwed in using pins).

We begin to figure out how to properly install the attachments we are interested in different types. The very first step is marking the door leaf. You need to step back from the top and bottom of the door by 0.2 m and mark the starting lines (use a simple pencil). After this, apply the hinges to the marks made (be sure to take into account the direction in which the door structure will open), trace their outline. And then put the appropriate marks at the attachment points.

Fitting and installation of hinges

At this stage, you should carefully examine the condition of the canvas. The areas where the awnings will be installed should not have any defects, in particular knots or cracks. If during installation you begin to screw fasteners into problem areas, there is a high probability that the door will split or warp. If defects are found in the marked area, re-mark so that the attachment points for the canopies are a couple of centimeters away from cracks and knots.

Now you can collect door block and mark the mounting points for the hinges on the box. In this case, it is necessary to maintain small (literally 2–3 mm) gaps between the door leaf and the door frame. This procedure is easiest to perform before the door structure is mounted in its proper place. If you have already installed the door, secure it (as tightly as possible) with wooden wedges in the opening.

When the weight of the interior door is large enough, you need to hang it not on two, but on three hinges. The latter should not be embedded in the middle of the canvas, as many believe, but with some offset towards the canopy located on top. In this case, you will be able to correctly adjust the load that affects the fittings used. A third hinge must be installed if the door has dimensions larger than standard (50 mm thickness, 200 cm height, 80 cm width).

Card type hinges (corner and simple) are very easy to install. Moreover, this operation can be performed in two ways. The first is suitable for awnings, the two parts of which are characterized by different shapes. Hinges of this type fit one into another when closing the interior door. Due to this, they are installed directly on the surface of the canvas.

Card type loop

To install such canopies you will need and electric drill. There are two nuances here:

  1. If the loops are placed on heavy door, you definitely need to drill holes in it in advance, only after that you can start screwing in the screws.
  2. Hardware can be screwed in immediately, without first making holes for them, if you are dealing with lightweight structures made of plastic or wood fiber material.

The second installation method involves slightly recessing the awnings into the door. In this case, when closing, they will never stop the canvas (when using the first installation method, this situation arises quite often).

It is recommended to make the notches for the hinges with a regular chisel. Simply use it to cut off the material on the opening and on the door itself to the depth of the canopy being installed. And then attach the latter to the area where it is installed and secure it with fasteners. Corner products should be mounted and secured in the same way. Place one half of them on the end of the door leaf, the second - on the door.

Modern models of interior doors, as a rule, are equipped with higher quality and innovative fittings. Such structures need to be mounted on hidden canopies. Such hinges are much easier to care for; they rarely need repairs, as they differ high level operational reliability. And a purely externally installed covert canopy makes the appearance of the door more attractive, without burdening the door with clearly visible hanging elements.

Hidden loop example

For correct installation hidden loops An electric router is a must. Without it, you will not be able to perform the operation yourself. The installation itself, if such a tool is available, is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Mark the attachment points of the canopies according to the algorithm described in detail above.
  2. Use an electric router to cut out the recesses for the hinges. And then you further process these areas with a chisel.
  3. Disassemble the hidden canopy into two parts. There is very important point. The loop elements have different geometric dimensions. You need to install in door frame a part with large parameters, and a smaller part into the canvas. And nothing else!
  4. Secure most of the mechanism using self-tapping screws.
  5. Connect the mounted elements into a single structure and, with some force, but very carefully, tighten the fastening screw.

Screw-in type canopies are most often used for installing enclosed interior structures. It is very easy to distinguish such loops from ordinary card loops. The former have special threaded pins on the sides. It is they who allow the installation of canopies. Let us repeat that screw-in products cannot be placed on doors that are heavy. Italian awnings are mounted similarly to standard card awnings. But with one peculiarity. They are placed at the bottom and top of the door leaf, and not at the ends, as is the case with card products. We hope that now you can install hinges of any type on your interior doors without the help of specialists. door designs. Good luck!

Do-it-yourself repair is a very labor-intensive process. For a successful result, patience, accuracy and attentiveness are required. Self-installation of an entrance or interior door involves several steps, one of which is cutting out a recess for door hinges. The door is held on by door hinges and from them correct installation depends on how it will open and close.

Preparation for installation

Most often there are two hinges, but if the door is very heavy, additional ones may be needed. The upper and lower loops are placed symmetrically, retreating 20-25 cm from the top and bottom, the third loop is made exactly in the middle.

To get started, you need to assemble some tools that you will need to cut out the recesses for the hinges.

  1. Pencil.
  2. Roulette.
  3. Building level.
  4. Hammer.
  5. Sharpened chisel.
  6. A screwdriver (can be replaced with a screwdriver) and screws.
  7. Drill.
  8. Hinges for the door.

Selection of door hinges

The choice of hinges for a door should be taken very seriously. Please note that there are left-handed, right-handed and universal hinges.

The most reliable and high-quality steel hinges are. Brass is widely used, since the material has good ductility, and brass-plated hinges look more decorative (imitation chrome, gold or bronze). And by choosing hinges with bearings, you can use the door for a long time and it will not creak.

The method of installing door hinges divides hinges into three types:

  • Screw-in (made in the form of threaded pins). Such hinges are two symmetrically located parts in the shape of a cylinder with holes for screws. One part is fixed on the frame, the other on the door leaf.

Attention! Screw-in hinges can only be used for doors with a European door, regular doors You won't be able to attach it to these hinges.

  • Invoices. The most common are butterfly hinges, which, due to their design, do not require cutting a recess either in the opening or in the door itself. To install the remaining overhead hinges, you need to make a recess in doorway and doors.
  • Canopy of a hidden insert (the fittings are not visible at all if the door is closed). Design door hardware this type is very complex, self installation such loops are not recommended. For installation, a simple chisel is not enough; you must use a router.

Installation

At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out accurate markings. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the upper and lower boundaries of the door hinges. Let us remind you that the upper and lower distances are 20-25 cm.
Depending on the length and width of the loop, you need to mark the location for the recess. To do this, attach the loop to the box along the first marked line and outline its outline. Act with maximum precision, the lines must be strictly at right angles, use a level to check.

Do the same with bottom loop, remember that the line marked below is the bottom edge of the loop. If it is necessary to install a third loop, it must be placed exactly in the middle. Having calculated the distance, mark the boundaries of the third loop. Mark the locations and drill holes for the screws.

The second stage is cutting out the recesses for the hinges. The depth of the recess must exactly match the thickness of the loop. If the recess is larger, the door may become deformed during operation, which will lead to the need to replace the hinges and door. The chisel must be applied to the drawn line and carefully outline the contour, tapping the chisel with a hammer. Remove the first layer of wood. Then go over the outline again. In this way, remove several layers until the desired depth is formed.

The third stage is to similarly mark and make a recess for the hinges on the door.

On the fourth last stage you need to secure the hinges with self-tapping screws to the frame and door. It is difficult to install the door alone; ask for help to support the door.

If all actions are done correctly, installed door will last for many years, and the money saved on installation will be a pleasant reward for independent work. As you can see, installing mortise overhead hinges is not very difficult; every man who knows how to handle a simple plumbing tool can handle it. We wish you a successful renovation!

Installing hinges: video

How to install hinges in a door: photo


Installing hinges on doors - important stage installation of the door leaf and frame. On the one side, this process does not cause any problems, since it comes down to installing the hinges themselves and securing the door leaf, but on the other hand, it requires time, as well as patience and the availability of the tools necessary for installation. Before installing door hinges with your own hands, think about whether you can achieve High Quality work. It is on the correct installation of hinges and doors on them that their further operation largely depends.

Types of door hinges

Features of the installation of certain loops will depend on their type. Hinges are classified according to structural features and fastening into three main types:

  • Invoices. They consist of two identical parts fastened together. One part is fixed to the door frame, the other to the leaf. There are also ones that represent a single whole. Installation of overhead hinges does not require special skills and is the simplest and most accessible to everyone.

Mortise. They are characterized by a more complex and time-consuming installation, which requires special equipment and skills to work with it. The complexity of installation is compensated by the wide distribution of mortise hinges, as well as their reliability and durability.

  • Screw-in. They are fastened using threaded pins - they are screwed into the door leaf, thereby securely fastening to its surface. Usually installed in the amount of three pieces per door, they differ in the number of fastening pins.

There are also hidden door hinges, which are highly complex to install, but guarantee excellent security and safety of your home.

Preparing the necessary tools

The installation process is unthinkable without a set of certain materials, tools and equipment necessary for the job. So, before starting installation you should prepare:

  • door hinges.
  • screwdriver and set of screws.
  • pencil (necessary for marking).
  • a set of wooden wedges for leveling the structure.
  • building level.
  • hammer and chisel.

After you have verified that the work area If you have the tools and materials listed above, you can begin installing door hinges.

Correct marking

Installing door hinges by eye is unacceptable - even a small error can lead to distortion and deformation of the door leaf and structure. Marking is done with a pencil as follows:

  1. Attach the hinges to the intended installation locations. Hinges should be placed with a minimum distance of 20 centimeters from the edges of the door (top and bottom).
  2. Trace the hinges attached to the door end with a pencil, then set them aside.
  3. Using a chisel and hammer, make the indentations in the marked areas necessary to install the mortise hinges.

Pay close attention to the thickness of the recess. If it exceeds the thickness of the hinge, the door will rest against the frame when closing. Ultimately, this will lead to deformation of the door leaf and problems with opening and closing the door.

Before installing hinges on the door, you need to mark the door frame. This operation will require skill and patience to correctly determine the location of the loop:

  1. Place the canvas in the box and secure it with wooden wedges in the way it should be in the installed state. To level the door leaf, use a building level.
  2. After aligning the canvas, mark on the frame where the door hinges come into contact with the door.
  3. As with the door leaf, use a hammer and chisel to make the required number of recesses for installing door hinges.

The alignment of the door leaf in the frame should be carried out not only vertically, but also horizontally. Unfaithful vertical installation will cause the door to open spontaneously, and the horizontal one will make it difficult to close it.

Correct installation of door hinges

Installation of mortise hinges

Inserting hinges into an interior door is the most complex procedure possible, so once you master it, you can easily install overhead and screw-in hinges. The installation procedure for mortise hinges is as follows:

  1. Sink the hinges into the recesses made in the previous stages of work on the door.
  2. Using a screwdriver, make holes in the wood for the hinges.
  3. Take screws of suitable diameter and use a screwdriver to secure the hinges on the door leaf.
  4. Place the door in the doorway and secure it with wooden wedges.
  5. Sink the loops into the indentations made, then repeat steps 2-3.

During installation, carefully ensure that the door is level in the frame and does not move during installation. Before hanging the door on its hinges, carefully align it in the doorway using building level(as when marking).

Installation of overhead hinges

This is the easiest method to use and does not require insertion and preliminary preparation door and door frame (without creating recesses). The simplicity lies in the design of such hinges and in the installation features - you don’t have to think about how to weld the hinges and secure them as firmly as possible in the socket.

Installation is similar to installing mortise hinges, however, the parts are not installed in special recesses, but are simply screwed to the end of the door and frame using screws. As in the previous case, it is important to maintain the correct position of the door leaf in space throughout the installation of the hinges.

Installation of screw-in hinges

Installation of screw-in door hinges will not cause problems even for a novice craftsman. Typically, installation involves three simple steps:

  1. Before installing the hinges on the door, you need to drill holes in the door leaf using a special template, which usually comes with the hinges. Sockets for hinges are drilled both on the door and on the frame, at the same level.
  1. The next step is to install the hinges in place. One half is placed on the door, the second on the frame.
  2. The final stage is “stringing” door hinges onto frame hinges. This completes the simple installation of hinges.

After installation is complete, it is recommended to prevent squeaking when opening and closing doors, as well as to extend the life of door hinges. If you still have questions about the correct installation of door hinges, you can get Additional information from the video (and also consolidate the information already obtained from this article), which can be found and played below.

Question for the erudite: what mechanism is designed for a house, a car, an airplane, or even a spaceship? There is no need to go to the encyclopedia or frantically enter a query into Google, just walk up to any door and push it. The door did not fall - it swung open, revealing to the inquisitive mind this simple engineering design called a door hinge.

In fact, the door hinge is simply irreplaceable, and the person who gave the world such a necessary mechanism was simply a genius. Now many modifications of this device have been created, which are used in almost all areas of life. Even secret loops have been invented.

What is a door hinge: purpose

The mechanism by which any door, hatch, window frame has the ability to open by rotating relative to a stationary part, for example, a door frame, and is called a door hinge. In addition to the opening function, the canopy holds the entire mass of the door leaf and secures it to the opening. For the door to work effectively, the swing mechanism must provide:

  • Reliable connection to the box. Doors can be quite heavy. Therefore, hinges are usually made of steel or metal alloys with high strength.
  • Ease of turning. High-quality canopies are adjusted in such a way that there is minimal play between the moving parts of the mechanism. This eliminates jamming at the moment of opening or closing.
  • Availability of service. Hinges usually have technical holes to allow them to be treated with lubricants.
  • Convenient mounting holes available. In any canopies, the mounting holes are made for countersunk screw heads. Thanks to this, there is no load on the mechanism being pulled out when closing the door.
  • Aesthetic appeal. Modern products are coated with decorative alloys using the electroplating method and look like a filigree loop (bronze, copper, nickel are its coating materials). It's beautiful and, most importantly, protects against corrosion.

Types of loops and their features

There are a few standard designs loop mechanism used for wooden doors household use:

  • A special feature is that they are attached not to the end, but to the main visible plane of the door leaf. They usually have one long and one short leaf. Sometimes such canopies are made in bizarre shapes with patterns or forging.
  • Mortise design. Under these hinges, a special selection is made at the end of the door and frame for the thickness of the sash. They are most often used for their reliability, relative ease of installation and simplicity of design. Basically, this type of mechanism is collapsible, providing the ability to remove the door leaf.
  • Hidden door hinges. If the canopy models described above are visible as if open door, and when closed, this view is completely invisible to the eye when the doors are closed. The design is not easy to install, as it requires sampling for complex swivel mechanism both at the end of the door and in the door frame. The price for such accessories is also more expensive.
  • type. Original look awnings, one part of which is attached to the frame, the other - to the end of the door. In this case, the door should not be flush with the frame. There are regulated and unregulated mechanisms.
  • The design is interesting in that it allows the doors to be opened in both directions. This is ensured by a double hinge mechanism. Additionally, they are equipped with special springs that return the open wings of the fittings to the closed position.

Hinges for basement hatch

This option requires a non-standard approach. To make the entrance to the basement invisible, what needs to be organized? The answer is simple. Needed secret hatch. This is possible if the hatch cover is finished with the same material that covers the rest of the floor surface. For better camouflage, it is necessary that the gap between the door and the floor be minimal. But the question arises: how to make the lid lift easily? The fact is that the thickness of the hatch is floor covering maybe a few centimeters and with conventional canopies, the gap is simply not enough for the hatch to open freely, it will get caught and jam.

There is a special type of mechanism that can solve this problem - pantograph loops. They are designed in such a way that they first move the lid up and then move it to the side. When closed, the canopies are not visible, so they can be considered as secret hinges. You can further enhance the lifting of the hatch by equipping the structure with a pair of pneumatic lifts from the car trunk door.

How to install hinges on a door

Let's try to install the loops mortise type on the door. If the canopies are detachable, then you first need to decide on the side in which the doors will open (there are right and left). Then, taking the loops for the appropriate purpose, perform:

  1. Marking the installation location on the door leaf. To do this, apply the canopies to the end and trace the outline of the hinge wing with a simple pencil.
  2. Selecting a plane for the wing of the hinge mechanism. Along the contour outlined in pencil, a chisel is punched to the depth of the thickness of the wing. Next, use the same chisel to remove the layer of wood.
  3. Fastening the fittings to the end of the door. The loop is opened and one half is applied to the place where the plane was previously removed. Then they take wood screws and screw the mechanism with them.
  4. Marking the location of the hinge on the box. Open the mechanism to an angle of 90 degrees. Select wooden shingles as thick as the gap between the door and the floor. Install the door on the shingles at an angle of 90 degrees to the opening so that the wing of the hinge rests on the door frame. Outline the canopy with a pencil.
  5. Selecting a plane for the hinge on the box - step 2 is repeated.
  6. Attaching the hinge to the box - repeat step 3.

It is more advisable to first fasten the canopies with two screws, and add the rest after adjustment.

It is better to take one-piece hinges so that the lid is in open state did not move to the side.

How to adjust hinges

After the door is seated, it is opened slightly and released. Let's assume that it remains in place, then we move it to a position of 90 degrees to the opening and release it again. If the door is motionless at any point of opening, it means that it hangs correctly and its vertical is not displaced anywhere.

Next, check the operation of the loops. By slowly opening the door leaf, make sure that the awnings do not make any other movements other than the rotating ones provided for by the design. In the event that the hinges begin to bend or the door moves randomly in any direction when released, it is necessary to adjust the position of the hinges.

You can adjust the awnings so that the door does not open arbitrarily by placing a backing under one part of the hinge. To do this, the lower hinge is released at the point of attachment to the box and pieces of cardboard are inserted into the gap, achieving a position where the door stops moving spontaneously. After this they plan wooden backing instead of cardboard and firmly fix it under a canopy.

Align the loops so that they do not bend in the following way. At the top one, the topmost screw is loosened slightly, the second one is completely unscrewed. Then they slowly open and close the door, observing how the canopy begins to shift from the second landing hole. The average position of the loop for the entire cycle of movements is noted and it is firmly fixed through the new mounting holes.

Hinges for hidden hatches do not need adjustment. This is a plus of the product. This ease of use is due to the fact that the secret hatch does not bear any special load on tearing off.

How to care for the mechanism

Any mechanism requires care. For hinges, this is regular lubrication. If the canopies are collapsible, then it is better to treat them with lithol or similar mastic. Non-removable or hidden door hinges are usually lubricated, but in the process of movement the material is produced. Therefore, it is advisable to regularly treat such canopies with oil for lubrication. sewing machines. Usually the hinges have technical holes for these purposes.

It is also important to periodically check that the screws are securely fastened. A small play can very quickly break the mounting holes or loosen the mechanism itself. The play can be felt when the door is opened, when it moves slightly.

Homemade loops

Door hinges are not in short supply and are affordable for anyone. But sometimes there is a need to make a temporary door to carry out some work. For example, fence off a construction site with a board and make an entrance to this area. It is not necessary to buy iron canopies for this. You can make them yourself from rubber.

An ordinary used one will do. car tire. Two rectangular strips of 100x300 mm are cut out of it. One strip at the top, the second at the bottom is attached to homemade door. The second parts of the strips are fixed to the fence at the opening. Now the door is ready.

Car hinges

Canopies on vehicle doors require much more care than ordinary doors in the house. Caring for mechanisms such as hinges for a basement hatch also cannot be compared with carports. This is due to the fact that the load on them is much more intense. There is also the impact of high positive and negative temperatures. Therefore, special lubricants have been developed to care for such mechanisms, providing:

  • short ;
  • long term preservation of lubricating properties;
  • stable homogeneous structure;
  • high frost resistance;
  • corrosion protection.

Conclusion

It is not difficult to answer the question of which loops are best to use in a particular case. You need to know the purpose of the door, its weight, and how it should look aesthetically. All canopies have load limits and intended purpose. But if you want to experiment, please do so. For example, the entrance to the basement - unusual situation, so the hinges for the hatch to the basement can be arranged differently. It all depends on the engineering mind of the performer.

Hi all!
Today I have the promised MK on the loop. First there is a lot of text))) and then too)))))

If you are used to buying accessories for boxes or use blanks that have everything, then this MK is not for you :)

MK is for those who, for some reason, like to do everything possible with their own hands, set themselves the goals “I want to do it myself,” do not have the opportunity to buy a suitable loop for a lovingly made box, and are also a little crazy (like me))) )).

And so you have a box and not a single purchased hinge fits it - they are either large and bulky, or they seem small but the lid on them dangles from side to side (I had this happen with the first box: the lid with the mirror is a bit heavy, the hinges are small They look neat, but the lid is warped, so I had to urgently come up with a replacement). You can, of course, go to a hardware store and buy a piano hinge there, cut it to size, screw it on, and then the question immediately arises: the box is cardboard, it’s already ready, the hinge was supposed to be glued, with reverse side If you don’t secure it in any way, it means it will fall off to hell. therefore it’s not suitable, you need something that won’t be bulky, can stick and won’t fall off and! most importantly! will hold the lid as long as possible.

As a result of several experiments (and I’m thinking about continuing them))) a fairly easy-to-make loop appeared.

What you will need to make it:

1. Pencil (preferably a mechanical one - it’s more convenient to draw with).
2. Ruler
3. Breadboard knife (or stationery knife)
4. Scissors.
5. Material for the loop. I have calico, but you can use any other: thick fabric(which doesn’t get shaggy), leatherette, leather, maybe even thin plastic.
6. Copper wire (about 1.5 - 1.3 mm in diameter, you shouldn’t take thinner ones, it’s too soft), I think this can also be replaced with another material, it will depend on your imagination))) I haven’t gone further than the wire yet .
7. Wire cutters
8. Round nose pliers
9. “Moment Gel” adhesive is good because it instantly sets the surfaces to be glued, no need to wait long.
It seems like I haven’t forgotten anything, if I add anything along the way))

First we need to draw our loop. To begin with, it’s better to try just making it out of paper to see if it’s suitable or not.
My box is 13 cm long, so the loop should be a little smaller so that there is room to attach the copper rod. I settled on a loop length of 11cm. The slots in the center (white squares in the diagram) are 1x1cm, loop width is 2.2cm.
For your specific box/box, the dimensions will, of course, be different. I hope the diagram below will help in construction :o)
I repeat: draw on paper and see if the loop is the right size.

If everything is fine, cut it out of the material)

We cut out those same white squares using a breadboard knife and scissors. In my photo they are not even simple ones, but manicure ones))
Fold both sides of the loop in half. You should end up with gear structures like this. The upper and lower ones should seem to fit into one another with these teeth.

1. We bite off the required piece of wire, for me it is about 13 cm (11 in the loop + 0.5 for the bend on both sides + 1 bent piece), keep in mind that if you beat the wire it will slightly increase in size (in width and length in the beaten place).

2. Using a breadboard or stationery knife, we strip the wire from the braid.

3-4. If necessary, we beat off the wire: a metal block (polished so that there are no marks left on the wire) and a hammer - slowly beat off the edge of the wire (we need 1cm of bend). Do not ivy too much, otherwise the copper will be very thin.

5. Bend the wire using pliers. Attention! If you bend the wire on both sides at once, it will be difficult to put the resulting rod into the loop. First bend one part, put on a loop, and then bend the second tail of the wire. And you need to make sure that both tails of the rod are bent parallel to each other.