What to make a mixer for a drill at home. How to make different types of homemade mixers. Mixer manufacturing process

Both a mixer and an electric drill are far from essential items. Not everyone can afford to keep both at home. But even if you can boast of having an electric drill at home, most often it is a powerful kilowatt device that is convenient for drilling walls. But it will be quite difficult to drill out radio boards or repair shoes with it, right? That's why I had the idea to make a special attachment for the mixer, with which you can now not only cook an omelette, but also make a hole in the hard to reach place drill.

The adapter for the drill is inserted into the socket of the “high-speed knife” attachment. If you have a rubber joint between the mixer and the nozzle, you will have to redo that too. Because the force that he is able to transmit is not enough even to operate a coffee grinder. A square is best for joining, but a hexagon is also suitable.

The drawing shows the dimensions of the nozzle parts for the MP-2E mixer produced by the Minsk Electrical Equipment Plant, but due to the similarity of all mixer models, the correction will be quite insignificant. I took the cartridge from hand drill. You shouldn’t count on drills with a diameter of more than 5 mm even when drilling wood (after all, the power of the mixer’s electric motor does not exceed 100 W), so if you have a choice, the chuck should be chosen as small as possible.

Scheme for making a drill from a mixer with your own hands

Parts 3 and 4 require manufacturing at lathe; in the absence of a head the right size For part 3, the hexagon groove will have to be milled. In the case of complete production of part 3, a small improvement can be made, which is as follows. In order to exclude additional surface friction between 3 and 4, make a sample for the hexagon with a slope of 5-6 degrees relative to the horizontal axis. This is necessary so that the head, sitting on the hexagon, engages with it as it moves and becomes jammed by friction forces. In this case, there will be a small gap between the head and the bushing, which will prevent additional heating of the unit and the associated loss of power.

Part 4 can be made from any structural steel, but if you can find a piece of polyethylene of suitable dimensions, the design will only benefit. If structural steel is used, a through hole should be provided in the bushing for shaft lubrication; the polyethylene bushing should be lubricated with grease. Typically, the chuck shaft is hardened superficially, and the MB thread should be easy to cut. The nozzle is assembled as follows. A sleeve is put on the chuck shaft, then the head is screwed on. The assembled nozzle is screwed to the mixer using the MZO thread.

The use of the attachment is also supported by the fact that the mixer, unlike most electric drills, has a smooth rotation speed control, which creates additional convenience during work. By the way, perhaps you have an old photographic enlarger lying around? In the conditions of Kodak's victorious offensive, you are unlikely to need it anymore, and its tripod can be adapted for a drilling machine. A tripod with a rack from an Upa photo enlarger is especially convenient. The adjustment flywheel moves the drill as smoothly as on drilling machine. If you have a low-power “Master” drill, you can place it on a tripod.

Video instructions - how to make a drill from a mixer

Every woman sometimes has a desire to cook something, but the kitchen may not always have the necessary electrical appliances. For example, making bizet or whipping egg whites without a whisk or mixer is almost impossible. Don’t give up the idea due to the lack of any equipment; make a mini-mixer with your own hands and turn your culinary ideas into reality.
Store-bought yogurt is not always healthy. Its long shelf life (up to 6 months) is questionable. You can make exactly the same yogurt at home.

Let's watch the video of the mixer:

To do this you will need:
For yogurt
-strawberry;
- sour cream;
- sugar;

For mixer
- a motor, preferably a more powerful one, since it will be difficult for it to grind. Can be taken out of an old cassette recorder.
- a small piece of tin, can be cut from a tin can of drink;
- regular plastic cover for a jar;
- two plastic cups;
- switch;
- power supply (depending on how many volts your motor is). In our case, the motor is 8.5 volts.
- screwdriver.


Let's take it a plastic cup and a screwdriver. We heat the edge of the screwdriver with a lighter so that it can easily melt the cent of a plastic cup.
When we have a small hole in the center of the cup, we need to insert the motor into it and outline its edges with a marker. This way we will mark where it will be. We take out the motor and continue working with the plastic cup.


Along the edge that we outlined with a marker, we draw with a sharp or stationery knife. As a result, we should end up with a large hole in the bottom of the glass. Our motor should easily fit into this hole. Make a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the motor, it should not fall out, the edges of the cup should hold it.


Then we measure the height of the motor (let it be 3 cm). We will have to leave exactly the same height for the cup in which we made a hole for the motor at the bottom. We leave our 3 cm - we cut off the rest.


In the blank we cut out a place for the switch and a hole for the wire.


The power supply always has 2 or more wires. We need a power supply with 2 wires. We solder 1 wire to the switch, and the second to the motor. Take another small copper wire and connect the switch and motor together.

As a result, you should end up with a blank slightly higher in height than our motor, in which a hole will be made for the switch, a hole for the wire and a hole for the motor. To prevent the switch and motor from falling out, they can be secured with super glue.


Next, we take a thin piece of tin and make a small ring out of it. With the second small piece of tin, we wrap this ring in the middle to make a butterfly. We should have an improvised propeller.


We glue the silicone nozzle with glue to the improvised screw, which will then be put on the pin.


While the glue dries and hardens on the tin, we return to our workpiece with a motor.

We turn the cut side over to face the table; a round plastic surface with a non-protruding motor in the central part should be looking at us.

We take the second glass, where a hole has already been made in the central part at the bottom, and install it on the motor. You should now have a glass on a stand. There should be a centimeter pin in the center of the cup.

When the glue has dried, install the screw.

A drill mixer is an excellent assistant for any builder. Such devices have a fairly powerful motor and two ergonomic handles, which are necessary to hold the tool while kneading. mortars and mixtures. This is a convenient mechanism that combines several important functions at once.

Purpose

The construction sector of the industry does not stand still - every year new compounds appear that are used for the construction of structures, small and overhaul. Glue, plaster and many other materials go on sale in the form of a powder, which must be diluted with water in order to make a complete composition out of it.

In order for the components of the mixture to mix as efficiently as possible and form a homogeneous working mass, it is necessary to choose the right tool. For example, if you can mix wallpaper glue with an ordinary stick, then for cement mortars and putties, which method will be ineffective, especially if you need the solution in large volumes.

Kneading building mixtures As a rule, it does not give using improvised means required quality working composition: many lumps form in it and a large percentage of dry matter remains, which could not get wet properly.

Many users in similar situations resort to a hammer drill, which has the necessary rotation capability; however, experts do not recommend using this method, since the hammer drill is initially oriented to loads in a different plane without any influence of radial forces. Of course, you can mix a small volume of solution with it, but in large quantities you risk simply destroying your tool, which, by the way, is quite expensive.

Great solution In this situation, you may want to purchase a drill-mixer, which is optimal for mixing compositions up to 15 liters in one go.

Such devices are optimal both for everyday use and for professional repairs. Unlike a hammer drill and a conventional drill, they have a stronger bearing; in addition, the mechanism is equipped with a powerful gearbox, which is protected by a particularly durable metal case. Thanks to this configuration the device can operate even at the lowest speeds.

An important advantage is that such The construction mixer can simultaneously perform the function of drilling a surface, that is, in fact, it is a 2 in 1 device.

Types of structures and their characteristics

The drill mixer is used to carry out repair work in large volumes; When mixing the solution, the user usually holds it in his hands, so the device has ergonomic handles that make operating the tool less labor-intensive. If the device’s engine has a power of more than 1 kW, then a special gearbox is built into it: it is suitable for use not only at the very first speed, but also when transitioning from first to second.

The first is used to prepare thick, dense mixtures, for example, mastic, and the second is used for gypsum and cement. At the second speed it is also possible to stir paints and other products. liquid substances with minimal torque.

To make work more comfortable, it is better to use tools that are equipped with a speed stabilizer or inrush current limiters.

Such drills, as a rule, have different configurations. Usually they come with several types of attachments, which can have several shapes.

  • Right hand spiral mixing attachment– used for solutions that have a very viscous structure. These include cement, concrete, and various kinds plasters and glue. Such a nozzle mixes the solution, as if pushing it from the bottom up, mixes the composition at the top, and then lowers it back.
  • Left hand spiral nozzle optimal for mixing paints and varnishes. Here reverse principle work: the mixture is pushed from top to bottom, where it is stirred and rises back.
  • Screw attachments Allows you to mix light mixtures.
  • Cross– a more specialized nozzle, it is used in cases where it is very important to prevent air from getting inside the container with the mixture.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of the drill mixer is the possibility of its multifunctional use. On the one hand, the tool is classified as a drill, therefore, in addition to mixing mortars, it can be used to form holes in surfaces different types, even the hardest and densest. On the other hand, a drill of this type belongs to the low-speed category, so it cannot replace a drill 100%, but at the same time, it is the low speeds that make it possible to mix even the densest mixtures.

Obviously, such a design cannot be used in industrial volumes, its power and design features not enough to cope with intensive use. But it can handle small household tasks such as minor repairs and finishing of an apartment or private house in full.

Such a drill weighs much more than a regular one: its mass is more than 3 kg, so frequent drilling with such a unit involves significant physical effort.

Operating principle and features of use

Depending on the principle of operation, there are three types of tools:

  • drill mixer;
  • drill mixer with one whisk;
  • device with two whisks.

A conventional electric drill-mixer is a low-speed, non-impact type mechanism. The power of this tool ranges from 500 to 2000 W, there are 2 comfortable handles, and a fairly large cartridge with a diameter of up to 16 mm.

Two-handed models are divided into options with a single whisk or with two; the difference follows from the name: mechanisms with two whisks mix even the most viscous mixture, they are equipped with a fairly powerful gearbox and can easily cope with solutions of a wide variety of consistencies - from light to concrete.

Model rating

The following brands of drill-mixers are the most popular among consumers.

  • Fiolent- this product Russian production, which is optimal for mixing the thickest and most viscous compositions. The power of the device is 1100 W, and the speed is 600 rpm.
  • Rebir- the most popular low-speed drills are produced under this brand. Some models from this manufacturer have exceptional performance characteristics: power up to 2000 W and rotation speed up to 500 rpm.

  • Interskol– suggests wide choose drill-mixers, the power of which reaches 1050 W. This tool is optimal for mixing any building mixtures, even concrete, and also for drilling: for example, if you place a special wood drill in it, you can get a hole up to 1 m long in a matter of seconds.
  • BISON- This is one of the most popular brands in the domestic market. The models presented in the assortment of this manufacturer have exceptional power parameters - up to 1200 W - and rotation speed (up to 850 rpm).
  • Makita is a well-known Japanese brand that is in demand all over the world due to its quality and reliability. It is noteworthy that all models of this brand, in addition to excellent technical characteristics, are also distinguished by their practicality, because they consume much less energy than their competitors.

How to choose?

  • product weight – in the range of 2.7-4.5 kg;
  • power – 620-110 W;
  • rotation speed – up to 1050 rpm;
  • torque – 70 N/m.

In addition, when choosing suitable model pay attention to additional functions that may be useful to you: soft start, mode automatic switching on, additional housing insulation, overheating protection and others.

How to do it yourself?

If you wish, you can make a construction mixer with your own hands. For this purpose, you need to use the most a regular drill, and any product with a hexagon-shaped shank is suitable as a nozzle. Such a device is quite easily fixed in the drill chuck, the main thing is that the dimensions of this hexagon match minimum size cameras that can be placed in a cartridge.

However, keep in mind that the motors and gearbox of a standard mixer are designed exclusively for longitudinal surfaces, so using this homemade instrument You can only mix very small portions of the building mixture.

In the next video you will find the main features of drill mixers.

Hello to all do-it-yourselfers and DIYers!

In my homemade creativity, I constantly have to deal with painting products various colors, stains, varnishes, etc. In addition, on the farm it is often necessary to carry out minor repairs related to painting various surfaces(mostly wooden).

As a rule, you don’t need a lot of paint for this, so the most common containers I use are 1-2 liter jars, no more.

Naturally, before using any paint, impregnation or varnish, you need to mix thoroughly, or even add solvent or white spirit for a more liquid consistency.

Previously, I usually mixed the paint by hand, but recently I decided to make a simple stirrer for this purpose from a single piece of strong steel wire.

Moreover, since paints or varnishes generally have to be mixed directly in jars, the maximum diameter of the working part of such a mixer should be such that it freely passes into the narrowest jar (usually a liter jar).


To make such a stirrer, I needed
  • a piece of steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of approximately 60 cm,
  • and from the tools: a hammer with an anvil, pliers and a file with a fine notch.

Mixer manufacturing process

First, I straightened the wire with a hammer, and at the same time slightly strengthened it.


And then he began to make a stirrer, bending the wire with pliers from side to side.



This process took about 15 minutes, and along the way I had to make corrections several times, leveling the wire with pliers and a hammer, and, in the end, this is what I got.



This mixer still had to be slightly balanced, for which I placed it on the edge of the workbench, and slightly twisting it with the fingers of my left hand, I looked at the position in which it stopped.
Ideally, neither side should outweigh.



I rounded all the ends of the wire with a file.


And the lower part was slightly bent upward so that it would not touch the bottom of the paint cans.


Thus, the mixer was ready, but just in case, I decided to make a protective casing for the drill chuck so that it would not accidentally get splashed with paint while mixing.
For this I needed a piece of the upper part of a liter plastic bottle with a cover, as well as an electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 2.7 mm, and scissors.


In the center of the lid, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 2.7 mm.



And inserted the stirrer shank there. The lid should move quite tightly along the shank.


After this, all that remains is to cut out a casing of a suitable size from the top of the plastic bottle.


And screw it into the lid.


And now my mixer is ready!


Now you can clamp it into the drill.


After this, be sure to slide the casing onto the drill chuck.


And now you can mix the paint.


By the way, the length of this stirrer is ideal for both liter and 2-2.5 liter jars.


After work, you need to clean the paint from the mixer using a rag soaked in gasoline or solvent.


You can store this stirrer hanging, for example, by hanging it on a nail like this.


I must say that this mixer showed itself to work quite well, since it mixes the paint quite quickly and at the same time efficiently.
However, such a mixer still has limitations. Since it is not so strong and rigid, it is suitable for mixing mostly liquid paints or varnishes. Also, when working with this mixer, you should not use too much higher frequency rotation of the drill chuck, otherwise the stirrer may bend.
But basically, since I'm dealing mainly with enough liquid paints and varnishes, then this stirrer suits me perfectly.

Well, that's all for me! Bye everyone, good luck, and comfortable and productive work on homemade products!