The most popular staircase system is the marching structure. The technique of its construction with your own hands is the simplest and most affordable. A march of a straight staircase can be made even by a beginner in a relatively short period.

We will talk about how to do it correctly and with high quality in this article, illustrated with a large number of high-quality photos and video instructions.

March of the stairs - design features

The march of a straight staircase is easy to manufacture and is considered a good option for private country houses and summer cottages. When building such a system with your own hands, you need to remember two important requirements - convenience and safety.

The construction technique of such a structure should be based on existing norms and standards.

The main elements of the march

For a clearer understanding of how to make a straight staircase, you need to know its main components. The staircase march includes the following elements:

• load-bearing beams - it can be a bowstring or stringers;
• support pillars - hold the entire structure;
• steps - consist of a tread and a riser;
• fencing - includes balusters, handrails (railings) and decorative elements.

Kosoura

The stringers are the main component of the staircase march, which is a load-bearing deck that holds the entire system.

Kosoura can be made of wood, metal profile or reinforced concrete.

A staircase march can have:

• one kosour - the supporting beam goes in the center of the structure and steps are attached to it (see photo);
• two kosour - beams go on the sides of the march, as shown in the photo;
• three kosour - two elements on the sides, one in the center.

Bowstring

A staircase march can also be made on a bowstring, which, in its function, performs the same role as a kosour.

In the ladder bowstring, the notches for the steps are made on the inside of the beams.

Steps

A step consists of two elements - a tread and a riser.

A tread is a horizontal surface, within 30 cm wide and about 90-150 cm long. The tread length is determined by the width of the staircase itself.

The riser is the vertical part of the step, 15-20 cm wide.

Fencing

The fence must be installed on a march consisting of more than three steps. A row of balusters is called a balustrade. Balusters define the style of the entire system. The railing is fixed to the railing. The main requirement for them is the smoothness of the surface, since a person leans on them when moving up the stairs.

Requirements for the flight of the stairs

The technique of erecting a marching structure with your own hands requires compliance with the following established GOSTs and generally accepted requirements:

• The width of the march ranges from 80 cm to 1 meter.
• Fencing height - not less than 90 cm.
• The mass that the march must withstand is from 180 to 220 kg.
• The load that the fence must withstand is at least 100 kg.
• The angle of inclination of the stairs is no steeper than 38 degrees.

DIY staircase erection technique

Before proceeding with the installation of the staircase march with your own hands, it is necessary to outline the stages of the upcoming work. Ladder system manufacturing consists of the following steps:

• The choice of material of manufacture.
• Design and calculation of the march.
• Production of stringers.
• Installation of steps.
• Installation of a fence.
• Finishing work.

The choice of material of manufacture

At the very beginning of the production process, it is necessary to decide what material the staircase will be made of. But, since we are talking about a march for a private house, the best material for making a staircase is natural wood.

As for the species, on the advice of experts, it is better to choose pine wood. To build a staircase, we need:

• beams for stringers;
• support pillars;
• edged boards for steps and risers;
• ready-made balusters and railings.

The best material for building a staircase with your own hands is pine.

Design and calculation of the march

Before performing practical work, it is important to correctly calculate the future structure.

To begin with, you need to design such basic elements - stringers, steps, risers and a fence.

The steps are calculated using the formula:

2A + B = 64 cm, where

• A is the width of the component;
• B - step height (usually taken 14-17 cm).

March design is a responsible and necessary stage

• First, let's measure the height of the stairs.
• Determine the number of steps of the staircase - for this, we divide the height of the staircase by the value B. If the height of the structure is 240 cm, and the height of the step is 16 cm, then the number of steps will be 15 (240/16).
• Calculation of the width of the steps - parameter A. Understanding the number of steps (B), this is not difficult to do: 2A + 15 = 64, 2A = 49, A = 49/2 = 24.5 cm.

Production of stringers

For kosour, a pine beam with a thickness of 40 mm and a wood moisture content of no more than 13% is suitable.

The sequence of production of kosour is as follows:

• Prepare a piece that follows the bends of the steps.
• Apply markings on the blank using a template.
• Use a hacksaw to cut the teeth.
• The resulting blank can be used as a template for cutting out the second stringer.
• Install the stringers in the place where the march will be placed, making sure that the ends of the parts rest against the floor of the first and the floor of the second floor.

Installation of steps

The steps can be fixed to the stringers using special wooden parts (filly) or directly. Before installing the steps, you need to prepare the required number of risers and treads, taking into account the value of the protrusions.

The first step is to install the risers. For this purpose, screws or nails are used. The filly are fixed with dowels. Next, the steps are mounted.

Installation of the fence

When all the steps are installed, you can start installing the balusters and railings. Screws and pins are used to secure them.

Finishing work

The final stage in the construction of a staircase with your own hands is to cover the stairs with varnish. This procedure will protect the system from harmful insects, mold and moisture.

Buy a ready-made flight staircase in the online store

If you do not have the proper carpentry skills or a lot of free time, then the best option for you would be to purchase a ready-made marching ladder in our specialized online store.

A beautiful and stylish staircase system of modern design from our company will cost you only 44 290 rubles
An excellent system from the Solo range has an economical cost in 70 858 rub

The staircase designs presented by us are of high quality, stylish design, economical cost and are able to satisfy the tastes and requirements of all our customers.

Another design from the "Solo" line of direct type on the central stringer has a price 70 858 rubles
A laconic and stylish staircase made of oak with decorative forged elements stands 75 136 rubles

In any building with a height more than a floor, a staircase is installed. Such a design requires a detailed calculation of all its components, the ability to work with locksmith and carpentry tools, and some design skills. After studying this instruction, you will learn how a do-it-yourself wooden staircase is designed and manufactured.

A wooden staircase for a private house most often consists of one or more flights (flights), which are located between floors or intermediate platforms.

The design of the staircase is a combination of various components with different functional purposes:

• Kosour. It is a load-bearing timber beam with a sawn comb. Risers with steps are fixed to it, so the part must be strong.
• Bowstring. In some cases, it becomes an alternative to kosour, performing load-bearing functions (especially if one side of the structure is adjacent to the wall). Before installing the bowstring, you need to mark it out in detail so that the steps are at a horizontal level.

• Step. The main element of any staircase, which is attached to one of the load-bearing beams. In addition to the usual ones, there are run-in and radius steps. Winders have a non-standard shape and are mounted at the starting point of the march. Radius steps are characterized by a curved front edge; they can be semicircular, wavy or with rounded corners.
• Riser. The part is optional, but it provides the ladder with high strength by keeping the tread centered. A spacer sleeve is used to fix the riser. A radius type is installed under the semicircular steps, and the curved version is mounted under the corresponding steps or under the platform between the flights of stairs.
• Support posts. They are placed at the starting and ending points of the stairs, as well as at the edges of intermarch sites. The elements increase the strength of the fence and serve as a support for the handrails.
• Balusters. These are supporting posts for handrails, from which the side rails are formed, can have different configurations.
• Handrails. Are a mandatory part. They rest on balusters and support posts. The main requirement for the element is a smooth surface.
• Spacer sleeve. Such a stand is required for any design with several flights (even when using stringers).

When choosing a staircase structure, the main factor is the size of the area required for its construction. In second place is the convenience and comfort of ascent and descent. Here you need to take into account the frequency of use, the presence of children and the elderly in the house.

Aesthetics is also an important criterion. The staircase should match the interior of the room. In addition, you need to take into account the material possibilities: the manufacture of wooden stairs with a complex configuration requires more time and money than options that are simpler in form and execution.

Marching

They are the most popular. They got their name thanks to marches (flights) - a group of combined steps. The stairs can have one or more flights.

Allocate straight structures (one-march and two-march, with a recreation area). They can be free-standing or placed against a wall. But straight models require a lot of space, so in order to save usable space, two-march options are provided with a turn at an angle of 90 to 180 degrees.

The march has a curvilinear shape with an optimal ascent angle, then rotary steps are used, which are also available for structures with two and three flights without platforms.

The most popular types of wooden stairs for a country house are:

1. Ordinary one-march. They have a simple design with a span in the center of the room or near the wall - the most durable with reliable support.
   
2. Curvilinear one-march. Installed in large rooms to emphasize spaciousness. They are distinguished by a smooth turn and steps widened from the outside.
   
3. Marching with lower turning steps. Sometimes this option is provided by the layout of the room, it can support the chosen architectural style.
   
4. Simple 2-march system. A staircase with two flights and with an interfloor turning platform can be mounted above the door and save space.
   
5. 2 marching L-shaped structure. It is located in a rectangular opening along the perpendicular walls and saves space.
   
6. 2-marching U-shaped staircase with an upper platform and turning steps. The structure is being installed in luxurious mansions with a large hall.
   
7. 3-march system with two platforms. This type of staircase saves space, but requires a significant ceiling height.
   

To select a specific configuration, you should correctly calculate and measure the free area for installation, draw up a drawing. A detailed guide on how to do this will be below.

Screw

Screw-type structures are used less often, as a rule, with a limited area or for aesthetic reasons of the owner of a private house. They are not as convenient as marching ones; it is difficult to transport furniture along them. To install the ladder, you will need to perform complex calculations, since with a small error it may lose its functional capabilities.

Spiral staircases sometimes perform just a decorative function, especially with a fence made of artistic forging. The device of such options is possible in almost any room, because they take up less space than pivot structures. The following types are distinguished:

• with cantilever pinching of steps on the inner post;
• with the support of steps on the inner pillar and perimeter walls;
• with cantilever support of the steps to the casing;
• supported by a fence and bent bowstrings.

Spiral staircases save space

Types of structures

Before making a wooden staircase, you should choose the best design option for your room.

The following popular design types exist:

The simplest is a straight-shaped staircase, which provides straight-line movement along the march.

Making a wooden staircase with your own hands with visual step-by-step instructions will be considered in more detail. The process includes two main stages: design and installation.

Calculations of the dimensions of the staircase

Before starting the design, you need to make accurate calculations, draw a diagram and put all the data on it. If you are not sure of the correctness of the calculations, then it is better to entrust the work to professionals who will make a competent drawing, which will allow you to complete the installation step by step without errors.

Ladder overall height

You can determine the height by measuring the distance from the floor of the first to the second floor, taking into account the thickness of the ceiling. For example, if on the 1st floor, the ceiling height is 2700 mm, and the thickness of the interfloor ceilings is 300 mm. As a result, the total height will be 3000 mm.

If there is no finished floor, then its dimensions should be laid approximately.

Number of steps

If you know the height of the stair and riser, you can determine the number of steps in the structure. To do this, you need to divide one indicator by the second. For example, with a total staircase height of 3000 mm, and a riser height of 175 mm, the calculation will be as follows: 3000: 175 = 171 mm.

After that, you need to round off the value, the result is 170 mm. The table shows an example of calculation:

Dependence of the height of the steps on their number at a given floor height

Riser height

According to the recommendation of experts, the optimal riser height should be 150–180 mm, in fact, this is the size of a human step. This height can be 150-200 mm. Usually the average value according to the standard is 160-170 mm.

The optimal slope range of the stairs is highlighted in green.

Step width

To avoid injuries as a result of the incorrectly selected step width, you need to calculate it correctly. Based on many years of practice, the width of the part should be in the range of 220 - 400 mm.

To determine a more accurate value, you can use a specific formula. You need to take the average width of a human step (600 - 640 mm) and subtract from it the height of the riser multiplied by 2, i.e. 640 - 2x175 = 290 mm. This indicator will be optimal for moving.

March width

According to safety rules, for the convenient movement of people, the span should be at least 80 cm wide, but it is better to take at least 90 cm.For convenient transportation of furniture, this indicator for a private residential building should be 100 - 120 cm.

Stair plan length

To calculate this parameter, you need to multiply the number of steps and the width of the tread. In our example, it will turn out to be 29x17 = 493 cm.That is, the staircase comes out quite long and when arranging one march, a room of at least 6 meters will be required. In a small log house or a village house, you will need to make 2 marches with a 90 or 180 degree turn.

Between the marches, a platform is mounted or rotary steps are placed. If you cannot perform the calculation yourself, you can use a special program presented below, which will clearly reflect the localization of the staircase parts.

Ceiling opening size

When building a staircase from a wooden array, you need to remember about calculating the ceiling opening so that you do not have to bend over when you go upstairs. Such an indicator will depend on the slope, which affects the convenience when moving and is selected individually.

A slope of 23-36 degrees is considered optimal, but it is often impossible to maintain the required angle due to the small area of ​​the room (the steeper the slope, the less area it will occupy).

The size of the opening in the ceiling area will depend on the angle of the flight of stairs. So, for a folding structure, a small opening will be required, and for a larger slope, a more significant one (up to 2 m) will be required.

The size of the opening in the ceiling is determined based on the minimum allowable value for a person's passage

Stringer length

To determine the length of the stringer, the Pythagorean formula is used: (length of the stairs in the plan) ² + (height of the stairs) ² = (length of the stringer) ².

That is, with a length of 493 cm and a height of 300 cm, we get the following: L = √ (4932 + 3002) = 577 cm (the indicator is taken with a margin of 580 cm).

Online calculator for calculation

For your convenience, you can use the convenient and visual.

Material selection

After all the calculations have been completed, you need to purchase materials. This will require boards of different lengths and densities: for steps, the thickness is 3-4 cm; for risers - 2-2.5 cm; for a bowstring or kosour, the thickness is 5 cm, and the height is 150-250 mm. It is better to buy handrails and balusters ready-made, since for their production you will need a lathe and a beam of 10x10, 15x15 cm in size. To fix the components, you will need screws and nails, as well as metal corners for reinforcement.

Manufacturing of parts and installation of stairs

Installation technology includes the manufacture and installation of all elements of the staircase in accordance with the drawing.

Assembling bowstrings or stringers

On the prepared boards, you need to mark the length and cut off the excess. On the bar, using a square, mark the height of the sub-step and the width of the tread with a decrease of 2-4 cm.

Marking a solid stringer

Assembling a bowstring with stiffeners

The recesses for the steps are cut out with a jigsaw or a saw. Next, the workpiece is placed at the installation site so that the lower edge rests against the floor, and the upper edge - against the overlap. The cuts under the steps should be horizontal, without "blockages". After that, it is recommended to grind the surface of the bar, perform milling, rounding off the outer edges.

For optimal rigidity, sometimes 2, 3 or 4 stringers may be required, the number of which is selected depending on the width of the ladder. Sometimes it is easier to order a ready-made supporting frame, which will include all elements with cutouts, indicated by numbers for joining in accordance with the diagram.

Installation of steps and risers

The risers are mounted in the prepared kosour cuts, leveled and sanded. Fastening is performed using self-tapping screws, which can then be putty or closed with a finishing material.

Options for attaching steps to a bowstring

After fixing the risers, pre-milled steps are installed, the length of which should exceed the distance between the pair of extreme stringers by 1-2 cm. The width of the elements should be 2-3 cm larger than the comb ledge. The fastening of the steps to the risers and kosoura is carried out on self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be sunk into the tree.

Fastening the stringer to the upper floor. Methods for connecting the elements of the stairs.
Fastening the stringer to the floor

Installation of fences

You can give the structure a complete look using auxiliary parts. For this, carved, straight, curly wooden and metal fences can be used.

The installation of poles with balusters is considered a difficult task, where accurate marking with a fit is required. In the step, the hole for the dowel is marked at a distance from the edge equal to ½ the width of the base of the baluster. Then holes are made on the steps and dowels are glued into them (they should protrude 1-1.5 cm from the surface).

After that, holes must be made in the base of the posts and balusters along the diameter of the dowel, grease them with glue. All elements are pushed onto dowels with vertical level adjustment. Next, the handrails are prepared by cutting the edges at the desired angle and milling them from the bottom side. To dock with the supports, holes are drilled on the element cut. The handrail is installed on a dowel glued into the support post.

After the glue has dried, the stairs must be covered with an antiseptic primer, then the surface is treated with transparent or paint. You can put a decorative skirting board. In a spiral staircase, you can design with an axial support in the form of a log or a beam, install a bent bowstring to support the steps. The price of such a structure will be high, since viscous flexible wood is used in the production, but the final effect is worth it.

Modern country or country houses are rarely built one-story, mostly two-story, three-story or one-story buildings with an attic floor. In this case, there is always a need to somehow make possible high-quality movement between floors. A good solution would be to manufacture wooden stairs that could provide a comfortable entry and carry heavy furniture or equipment. Let's say right away - this is not an easy matter. And if it is possible to order at least a project or even finished staircase elements from the manufacturer, then it is better to do so. Well, if you are confident in your abilities, have carpentry skills and free time, you can try to make the stairs yourself. Within the framework of this article, we will briefly talk about what kind of construction stairs are, how to perform the calculation and how to make a staircase.

Wooden staircase construction

The choice of staircase design is based on the space that can be used, the convenience of location, configuration and lifting, as well as for aesthetic reasons.

Conventionally, all wooden stairs can be divided into spiral and marching ones.

Spiral staircases are used quite rarely. Mostly in extremely confined spaces. The second reason may be the desire of the owner - for aesthetic reasons. It should be noted that spiral staircases are of little use. For example, it is extremely difficult to carry heavy furniture over it. In other words, it can only serve for the descent - the ascent of one person. For its manufacture, it will be necessary to perform complex calculations, since it will rely on one pillar - a support. The slightest mistake in strength calculations can lead to dire consequences.

Marching stairs- the most common. They consist of their marches, they are also called "flights of stairs", i.e. directly steps and platforms that separate the marches. There can be one or several marches. And there may be no platforms at all if the staircase is one-flight.

Marching stairs can have a different design, you can examine them in detail in the diagram below.

There are straight marching stairs. At the same time, they can be single-march and two-march, separated by a platform for ease of movement. These ladders can be located against the wall or not lean against the wall at all. A characteristic feature of straight stairs is that they take up a lot of space.

Most often, to save space and ease of use between floors inside the house, two-flight swivel stairs are made. Rotation can be at right angles (90 °) or any other angle, up to 180 °.

The march can have a curved structure with a convenient angle for entering the stairs. In this case, all steps can also be rotary.

Also, two-flight and three-flight stairs may not have platforms, but only turning steps.

In order to choose the right staircase design for a particular situation, it is necessary to measure the free space that can be used under the staircase, make small calculations and draw a drawing. The drawing should show how the stairs are located, whether its elements interfere and how comfortable it will be.

Elements of wooden stairs

The above photo shows the elements that make up the stairs, and their names are indicated.

Kosour is a load-bearing beam that supports the steps and risers from below. All loads fall on it.

Bowstring also performs a supporting-bearing function. At the same time, there are recesses in it, into which the steps are wound up with the end. This design is used on one side if the staircase is adjacent to the wall, and on both sides - if the flight is sandwiched between two walls. A bowstring is less preferable than a stringer due to the fact that it is not able to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, even in the case of a ladder adjoining the wall, they still try to execute it on kosoura.

Steps for stairs - wooden beams, consist of a tread (horizontal) and a riser (vertical). We step on the surface of the tread with our feet. And the riser is a vertical beam under the step, which encloses the tread space and performs a supporting function. You can make stairs without a riser, in which case the space of the step will be free, the leg will not rest, but the structure will be less strong and reliable.

The steps can be rectangular, radius for a beautiful entrance to the stairs, rotary at a certain angle to replace the dividing platform and winders - the first step of a non-standard shape.

Railings for stairs - wooden balusters and handrails. Their shape and size may vary. Basically, railings are made to order, in the form that the customer wishes.

If the staircase is more than one-flight, its design includes support post or pillars at the turning points of the stairs.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of stairs, it is imperative to make calculations and complete a drawing. Wooden drawings for stairs are made both independently and with the help of special architectural programs. In the latter, you can also perform calculations. A good solution is to contact a company that specializes in wooden stairs. This way you can be sure of the quality and accuracy of the calculations.

Calculation of a wooden staircase

Number of steps and riser height

To determine the height of the stairs, we measure the distance from the base of the final floor of the first floor to the final floor of the second floor. If the finished floor is not yet equipped, then its dimensions must be laid on the basis of the calculation "by eye". Because the wooden staircase is only on the finished floor. In this case, we assume that the height from floor to ceiling is 250 cm, the thickness of the interfloor overlap together with the floor is 35 cm.Total is 285 cm.

We make the calculation based on the height of the riser. The fact is that most often this size is standard and ranges from 15.2 to 19.7 cm. It is believed that this height is the most optimal for ease of use. The smaller one will knock down the step. Large - too heavy to climb and difficult to descend. From this interval, we take the average value (you can take any) - 17 cm.

Number of steps = stair height / riser height;

Since the number of steps cannot be uneven, we round up - 17 pieces.

However, we have two ways. We can make the first winder step small, and the rest with a 17 cm riser. Or we can recalculate and get a more accurate, but uneven result.

To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the number of steps: 285/17 = 16.76 cm.

So we can complete 17 identical steps with riser height 16.7 cm.

It is believed that the minimum for convenience the width of the tread should be 22 cm, and the maximum 37 - 40 cm. If it is less, it will be difficult to descend, if it is more, the step will go astray.

For a more accurate calculation, there is a dependence:

1. 2a + b = 64 cm;
2. a + b = 47 cm;

a - riser height;

b - tread width.

Let's try the second formula: 47 cm - 16.7 cm = 30.3 cm.This width is quite acceptable, we can round it up to 30 cm.

For the sake of interest, let's calculate using the second formula: 2a + 16.7 = 64; a = 23.65 cm. This width is too small, so we will use the data obtained from the previous formula.

The width of the march of a wooden staircase

In principle, the width of the march is not strictly regulated in any way, but the number of marches will depend on the place that can be used for the stairs.

It is believed that the minimum comfortable width of the march is 80 cm. If the staircase is narrower, there will be difficulties with the passage of full of people or with bringing furniture. Options from 100 to 140 cm will be successful.

In order for the entire staircase structure to look organic, you can use this hint: the width of the march must be a multiple of the width of the tread... In our case, these are 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm and 160 cm.

Ladder length

To calculate the length of the stairs, we need only two values ​​that we have already calculated, this is the width of the tread and the number of steps.

Ladder length = tread width * number of steps(without the last - this will be the floor of the second floor);

30 * 16 = 480 cm.

4 meters and 80 cm- rather long length, which "eats" a lot of space.

Therefore, if it is not possible to equip such a staircase in one march and a straight line, you will have to change the design and make it two-march with a 180 ° turn. In this case, you can make a dividing platform, or you can make turning steps. Such calculations are most conveniently done in special programs; the location of the staircase elements will also be clearly visible there.

Clearance height above steps

An important parameter. The beginning of the staircase march almost always falls under the ceiling, thus reducing the free space above the head of the person walking up the stairs.

Even at the stage of creating a drawing, it is necessary to calculate the height from the highest step under the ceiling to the ceiling. The minimum allowable value that can provide easy access to the stairs even for the tallest people is 195 - 200 cm.

Stringer length

Calculated by the Pythagorean theorem.

Ladder length2 + ladder height2 = stringer length2;

4802 + 2852 = stringer length2;

230400 + 81225 = stringer length2;

Stringer length = 558,23 see.We take with a margin of 560 or 580 cm.

How to make a wooden staircase

The simplest solution would be to order a project and ready-made staircase elements from the company, with all the necessary cutouts. All items will be numbered. After the disassembled stairs are delivered to the construction site, the wooden stairs are assembled according to the attached drawing and diagram. So you don't have to buy a special pruning tool and dust in the house.

We buy material for a wooden staircase

If you decide to carry out an independent installation of wooden stairs, start with the purchase of building materials.

For bowstrings or stringers, a bar of 50 * 250 mm is required. Its minimum width can be 150 mm, if the construction of the stairs allows.

For the steps, we purchase beams with a minimum thickness of 25 mm, you can take thicker ones.

For treads, beams are best taken from 30 to 40 mm. And you can be the same as for the steps.

We order handrails and balusters from the manufacturer or buy ready-made ones, since in order to make them yourself and beautifully, you need to have considerable experience, knowledge and skills.

Install stringers or bowstrings

We cut the beam, which we bought for the kosour, from above and below so that the required length of the stairs is obtained. Then from below we cut off the thickness of one tread, i.e. 5 cm.

Important! The fact is that when we did the calculation of the number of treads, we did not take into account the thickness of the steps. It is really not important for the entire structure, except for the first step - its height does not increase by the thickness of the tread.

Saw off the excess. Better to use a jigsaw or saw. But in the absence of, you can use a hand saw.

Then we put the kosour on the place where the stairs will stand. Its upper edge should abut against the ceiling, and the bottom should abut tightly against the floor of the first floor. We check the horizontality of the cuts for the steps.

Important! We need two such kosour, but depending on the loads that the staircase must withstand, there may be more kosour. In this case, we cut out all the others, using the first one as a template.

We carefully sand all surfaces. If necessary, we mill the outer edges, making rounds (for beauty).

At the bottom and at the top of the stringers must be connected together with a beam. To do this, we cut them out by a quarter from the bottom and top. We fix it to a thick beam with anchor bolts. If it is possible to fix the stringers to the walls, then we also use anchors.

If we use one string, then it must be cut to the required length. Then cut out the inside with a cutter holes - recesses for the steps. The bowstring is fixed to the wall with anchors.

Important! We check the correct location of the bowstring and kosour on the other side, they should be located at the same level so that the steps do not have a slope.

We install steps and risers

After the stringers are tightly fixed, we begin to put the risers.

To do this, we cut the beam into the required number of risers of a certain length. We level them relative to each other and sand them.

We fix it to the stringer with self-tapping screws from the front side. Then we will putty them or hide them under decorative elements. You can also use special glue.

When all the approaches are installed, proceed to the steps - treads.

To do this, we also saw the beam into the number of steps minus one. Then we skin their surface and cut the protruding outer edge with an angle.

Then we put them on top of the risers and fix them with self-tapping screws or screws.

Important! If we use a bowstring on one side, then we insert the step into the groove cut in the bowstring, after having glue the edge of the step and the hole in the bowstring with glue.

We install the balusters on the steps and fix them with hairpins 100 mm long and 8 mm thick.

From above we install and fix the railing with self-tapping screws.

This completes the work, leaving only the painting of the wooden staircase. For better preservation of wood, while preserving its natural beauty, you can use special transparent varnish coatings.

In this article, we examined the manufacture of a wooden staircase with a single-march straight line with our own hands. If the project involves a staircase of a different design, then the installation will be different. For example, for a two-flight staircase, the first step is to install and secure a platform and a support post, and then kosoura, steps and steps are already installed. In this case, some steps may not be straight, but rotary and rounded.

When building a house with at least 2 floors, you definitely need to think about the stairs in it. And if the house will be built with your own hands, it is logical to make the stairs as well.

Various photos of stairs help you make a preliminary selection and clearly understand what type of climb you need. But before taking on the work, carefully calculate the future structure for strength and dimensions, this will save time and money, because incorrect calculations (or their absence) will lead to numerous alterations of the original project.

Types of stairs

There are many different options for flights of stairs. They differ in the material of manufacture (wood, concrete or metal), the type of rise (gentle staircase, spiral, with a turn by a certain degree).

The most common is a wooden staircase. Also, a staircase with a 90-degree turn is often built. It is not uncommon for these two types of lifting devices to be combined into one.

In the case of limited space, a spiral staircase is made of metal. The helical type of lifting allows you to save space, and the manufacture of metal - to increase the strength of the structure. Concrete is used for stairs in massive buildings (for example, mansions).

What to look for

In a low-rise building, having no construction experience, it is better to order a modular staircase, a kind of constructor, where all the parts are cut out and numbered, and you just have to assemble them using the instructions. These are usually wooden stairs.

When building a staircase made of concrete, in addition to pouring the frame, you will need to perform an external finish (with beautiful stone or wood materials). This is a double waste of time and money. However, for cottages of 3 or more floors, they are mandatory for fire safety requirements.

When making a ladder for the first time, you do not need to swing straight at a complex structure. The simpler the model is, the more likely it is that you will be able to successfully build this lifting device on the first attempt.

Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the ladder: if it is more than 45 degrees, the ladder will be considered an attached ladder, and you can only descend backwards. The optimal ascent angle is considered to be 37 degrees.

Wood as a material for construction is preferable, as it allows, due to its properties, to correct minor construction flaws that have arisen due to inaccurate calculations and inexperience of the contractor.

Also, after construction, the building may settle due to loose soil, as a result, the staircase can become higher or lower than the floor by a few centimeters, and it is easier to fix this in a wooden structure.

When constructing a lift with a turn towards the opposite, the distance between the spans must be at least 100 mm.

Construction stages

Answering the question of how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, there are several stages of construction.

The first stage of any construction, be it a staircase to a house, or an interfloor staircase, is to create a project. Particular attention should be paid to the safety of the building and its ease of use.

The structure must be able to withstand the average weight of an ordinary person with a fair amount. The use of handrails is mandatory!

If they are not there, another fence must be designed to ensure the safety of the descent and ascent.

Consider creating a wooden staircase with stringers

After you have designed your building, you need to prepare the materials. In our case - choose boards of suitable thickness and length, prepare balusters with railings and prepare stringers. This will be the second phase of construction.

A pine board 4 cm thick is suitable as a material for kosour.On it, we mark the steps according to the pattern and cut it out with an electric jigsaw.

Note!

We use the resulting product as a sample for the second (and if the width of the stairs is more than a meter, then the third) kosour. We will cut the required number of steps to size.

The third step is to assemble all the parts together. First of all, stringers are installed in their places of permanent placement. Then, using self-tapping screws, the steps are attached to the stringers.

Then, using pins, balusters are placed on the steps, and handrails are attached to them. The ladder is ready!

DIY ladder photo

Note!

A ladder is a rather complex and very responsible construction, but every home craftsman who has at least minimal experience in working with wood can make it. The main thing is to first familiarize yourself with the basic rules, requirements and nuances of its manufacture, which will be discussed later.

Design, or how to make a ladder comfortable and safe

It is necessary to decide on the design of the future staircase. It can be of the following types:

• spiral - the steps of such a staircase are run-in (rotary), located around one axis. The main advantage of the screw design is its compactness. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of use and the complexity of manufacturing. Therefore, if you are going to make a staircase for the first time, it is better to refuse a spiral structure;
• marching - has even flights of stairs (one or more), as a result of which it is much more convenient to use. True, the flight staircase takes up a lot of space.

Next, we will consider how marching wooden stairs are made, and start with the calculation and design. To make the design comfortable and safe, when performing the calculation, you must take into account the following rules and requirements for it:

• steps cannot be made of different widths and heights - this is one of the main rules, non-observance of which can lead to injuries;
• steps cannot be made below 160 mm and above 190 mm;
• the step should not be narrower than 220 mm and wider than 330 mm;
• the width of the march should not be less than 900–1000 mm;
• the number of steps must be odd, which will allow you to start and end the movement on the stairs with the same foot;
• for the stairs to be comfortable, marches should have 11-15 steps;
• between the march and the ceiling (overlap of the second floor), the distance should be at least 2 m, however, this rule applies more to the dimensions of the opening, and not to the structure of the staircase itself.

We begin the calculation of the structure by measuring the height between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor. Then it is imperative to measure the width and length of the site.

For example, the ceiling height is 2500 mm. let's take the middle one - 170 mm. To calculate the number of steps in the march, you need to divide the total height by the height of the steps. The result is 2500/170 = 14.7. So the number of steps should be whole, we will correct their height - 2500/15 = 166 mm. Please note that in fact the march will have not 15, but 14 steps, since the function of the last step will be performed by the overlap of the second floor.

Now you need to decide on the width of the treads. To do this, we will use the following formula: step height, tread width = 430–450 mm. As a result, we get 450-166 = 284 mm, rounded and get 280 mm.

If necessary, adjust the step height or step width, within acceptable values, so that the structure corresponds to the dimensions of the site. The only thing is, when changing one parameter, recalculate the other parameters of the staircase, as they are interconnected.

If you don't have room for a staircase longer than four meters, it can be split into two flights. A staircase should separate them. The depth of the latter is always equal to the width of the span.

The use of turning steps instead of a staircase allows you to save even more space. But in this case, the ladder becomes less convenient to use. As for the flights, they can be located L-shaped if the staircase is angular, or at an angle of 380 degrees, i.e. parallel to each other.

Finally, you need to calculate the length of the beams. Knowing the height of the stairs and the length, this can be done by the Pythagorean theorem a 2 b 2 = c 2. Our legs are the length of the stairs (projection of the march to the floor) and the height of the stairs. Accordingly, we need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse.

Now you need to decide on its main structural points. The fact is that flights of stairs are of several types:

• on bowstrings - treads are attached between the beams, while the beams (bowstrings) themselves are even, i.e. without cutouts for steps. Therefore, to fasten the treads in the face of the beams, grooves are milled or bars are attached - supports for the treads;
• on kosoura - they are distinguished by the presence of cutouts for the steps, therefore, the treads are not located between the beams, but are placed on top of them. This design provides the ladder with greater strength, moreover, it looks more attractive. But in terms of manufacturing, the staircase on kosoura is more complicated.

Then you need to decide on how to install the beams. If the staircase will have one span, then it will not need supports: the staircase rests on the floor and the overlap of the second floor. Two-flight stairs require the installation of support pillars on which the upper part of the lower flight, the landing and the lower part of the upper flight rests. Each string or stringer requires its own support. The exception is beams located near the wall - they can be fixed to the wall without supports.

When you decide on all the main points of the staircase, draw the structure on paper, you can even schematically, and indicate the dimensions of all staircase elements in millimeters.

We make the details of the stairs - the subtleties of the calculation

Start by trimming the boards to the length of the stringers. Then you need to mark the kosour - this is the most difficult and responsible operation. We start the marking by marking the points from which the cuts for the steps will be made. You can determine the distance between the notches on the stringer using the same Pythagorean theorem. Since the legs are the width of the tread and the height of the step, the distance between the edges of the steps in our case is 280 2 166 2 = 105956. We take the square root and get 325 mm.

Thus, on the edge of the future stringer, you need to apply points with a step of 325 mm. Then you need to use a square and draw tread lines and a riser through the obtained points, which form a right angle. The result should be rectangles, the hypotenuse of which is the edge of the stringer, and their vertices, respectively, points located on the edge with a step of 325 mm.

The bowstrings are marked in the same way. Then bars are attached to it under the steps or grooves are milled.

Now you need to make cuts for the steps according to the resulting markings. To do this, you can use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. The edges of the stringer must be cut at an angle to ensure the maximum area of ​​support on the floor and beam of the landing or overlap.

Use the resulting stringer as a template for marking the counter beam. Then cut the cutouts in the same way. According to this principle, perform stringers for all flights of stairs.

Then prepare stands for supports from 70x70 or even 100x100 mm timber. Their height should correspond to the height of the lower flight. To calculate it, multiply the number of steps of the first flight by their height. If the staircase is L-shaped, then you will need four racks for the landing. In this case, the staircase itself will turn out to be square, as already mentioned above, its width is equal to the width of the march, most often it is 1000x1000 mm.

If the marches are parallel to each other, you will need 8 racks. In this case, the depth of the site should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. 1000 mm, and length 1000 1000 distance between flights.

You also need to make beams for strapping the racks. You can use the same timber from which the racks themselves are made. The length of the beams is equal to the distance between the uprights of the landing.

At the end of the work, you need to make steps and risers. For their manufacture, use boards 30x300 mm. The length of the treads should correspond to the width of the march or be a couple of centimeters larger so that the tread hangs a little from the stringers. The risers are made of the same length, while their width should be less than the height of the step by the thickness of the riser, i.e. in our case - 166-30 = 136 mm.

Please note that the treads should hang about 1 cm above the lower treads.

We assemble a ladder from finished parts

Now we start assembling the stairs. First of all, you need to apply markings to the floor and walls adjacent to the stairs. This operation requires accuracy and care, since the assembly quality of the entire staircase depends on it.

Then, according to the markings, you need to install the supports of the staircase. If the floor is concrete, special glasses can be used for these purposes, corresponding to the cross-section of the racks.

Glasses are fixed to the floor with dowels. Then the racks are inserted into the glasses and fixed with self-tapping screws. During the installation of the racks, be sure to make sure that they do not deviate from the vertical.

Tie the installed racks with horizontal beams. If you have a router, you can make a tongue-and-groove connection, for this you need to mill grooves in the racks, and make spikes in the beams for these grooves. If such a tool is not at hand, the connection can be made using steel corners and self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, coat the joints of all parts with wood glue.

Now we install the stringers. If the march is adjacent to the wall, fix the beam on it according to the markings. In a wooden house, custom screws can be used to fasten the beams to the walls, but if the wall is brick or concrete, fix the stringer with anchors. Use the fasteners in pairs, placing them 10 cm apart vertically. Make a step of each pair of fasteners 20-25 centimeters.

The response stringer usually rests only on the landing post. It is advisable to fix it on the rack using a tongue-and-groove method and self-tapping screws. If this is not possible, use self-tapping screws, and also fix another horizontal beam under the stringer, on which it will also rest. According to this principle, stringers are mounted for all flights of stairs. When installing beams, be sure to use a level to make sure that the notches for the steps are opposite each other in the same horizontal plane.

Then we mount the treads and risers. The treads are laid on the cutouts in the stringers and fixed with self-tapping screws. To later hide the caps of the screws, drill under the holes to a depth of several millimeters.

In order not to fasten the risers with self-tapping screws in the steps above and below them, you can cut a groove. The width of the groove must match the thickness of the riser. As a result, the risers will be fixed only by treads. If it is not possible to make grooves, secure the risers with self-tapping screws. In the process of installing treads and risers, also use wood glue.

So that the space under the stairs is not wasted in vain, you can make a cabinet under it. To do this, you just need to install the walls between the stringers and the floor, as well as install the doors.

We mount the staircase railing

Now you need to install the railing (railing). It can be anything - forged, chrome-plated stainless steel or even glass. But as an example, consider how a wooden fence is mounted.

The structure of the wooden railings consists of curly posts (balusters) and a handrail. If you have a lathe, you can make curly posts yourself. If there is no such equipment, the balusters can be purchased ready-made - the cost of a knitted pine post starts on average from 150 rubles per piece.

Keep in mind that you will need two types of balusters - intermediate and extreme. The latter differ in size - they are larger. In addition, you will need dowels for fastening, which are available from your furniture store.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the fence are as follows:

1. 1. Mark the location of the fence: draw a straight line above the stringer, on which the balusters will be installed;
2. 2. Drill holes in the treads according to the diameter of the dowels. The holes can be positioned in the center of the tread;
3. 3. Coat the holes with glue and hammer the dowels into them;
4. 4. Drill holes in the lower end of the posts along the diameter of the dowels, then coat the holes with glue and put the balusters on the dowels;
5. 5. Cut the intermediate balusters at an angle corresponding to the slope of the march. To do this, fix a flat board parallel to the stringer on the edge of the posts. Cut the edges of the posts along this board.
6. 6. Fix the handrail on the balusters by screwing in the screws from below at an acute angle.

Finishing is the final touch

Now that the staircase is assembled, you need to finish it. First of all, the surface should be carefully sanded. Doing this work with your own hands is quite difficult and long, so use an angle grinder.

Then you need to fill in all the cracks, cracks and caps of the screws. If you plan to subsequently open the stairs with varnish, select a putty to match the color of the wood. After the putty has dried, be sure to sand it with fine sandpaper.

Now you can cover the stairs with paint and varnish. It is best to use a water-based varnish - it has good abrasion resistance, while it dries quickly and is odorless. The only thing is that after applying the first layer of varnish, the staircase needs to be sanded again, since under the influence of moisture, the wood fibers rise, as a result of which the surface becomes rough. After that, you need to apply another 1-2 layers of varnish.

In order not to spoil the surface of the stairs, apply the varnish with a high-quality paint brush, with which the pile will not crawl out.

Ours is ready for this. As you can see, in general, there is really nothing super complicated in its manufacture.