The purchase of a manual router is a good opportunity to do many useful things around the house, improve its interior and exterior, carry out repair and construction work. However, in order for a hand mill to turn into a useful and efficient device, it must be equipped with the appropriate tools - such as cutters for lining or panels, for working on stone, metal and other materials. It is easy to find and purchase such products on the modern market, but before making a choice, you should understand what these cutters are and what parameters they are characterized by.

Making lining with a manual milling cutter is a task that is quite feasible at home

Types of tools for equipping a manual router

When choosing a tool to equip your hand router with it, you must first decide what tasks you are going to solve with it. In addition, the characteristics of the material to be processed should also be taken into account (wood cutters, for example, are made of a softer material than stone cutters).

On the modern market, as mentioned above, there are many different cutters designed to equip hand-held power tools. If we talk about the most popular types, then we should highlight:

• cutters for lining;
• cutters for panels;
• tool for performing stone work;
• spiral cutters designed for woodworking.

Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining

The lining, which is actively used today for both interior and exterior finishing work, is a high-quality processed board, on one of the sides of which a tongue is made, and on the other - a groove. For the manufacture of such a finishing material, a cutter for lining is needed, the task of which is precisely to form grooves and tongues on the side surface of a wooden board.

Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining, thus, are divided into two main types, depending on which element they form - a tongue or groove. Each of these types of cutters for lining, some models of which can also be installed on a hand mill, differ both in their size and design.

The cutters used for the manufacture of lining differ in the type of their shank, which can have a diameter of 8 and 12 mm. This allows them to be used to equip equipment of various capacities. A typical cutter for the manufacture of lining contains the following elements in its design:

• two discs with cutting knives;
• a bearing located between the cutting discs;
• an axis on which all structural elements are fixed with a fixing nut.

The cutting part of such cutters, which can be sharpened independently up to four times, is made mainly of a steel alloy of the VK8 grade. For the manufacture of lining with a manual milling cutter, both universal and specially designed cutters for equipping manual electrical equipment can be used.

The geometric parameters of the lining must comply with the requirements of the relevant regulatory documents, in particular DIN 68126 (euro lining) and GOST 8242-88 (domestic products). In this regard, the tool used for the manufacture of such products must meet certain requirements both in size and in the configuration of the cutting part.

Stone tools

Tools for a hand router designed for working on stone are distinguished by the variety of their design. The choice depends not only on which stone needs to be processed, but also on the nature of the upcoming technological operation. So, depending on the design, there are radius, profile and overrunning cutters for working on stone, as well as for inlay work.

Depending on the material of manufacture of the cutting part of the cutter for stone work, there can be:

• equipped with hard-alloy plates, which are soldered onto the cutting part;
• with carbide elements mechanically fixed on the cutting part;
• with diamond coating.

The most effective for stone processing are cutters made using diamond chips. They can be produced by sintering such chips or by electroplating them on the work surface. More wear-resistant are tools obtained by sintering, the working part of which consists of several layers of diamond chips. The wear resistance of such cutters is explained by the fact that when grinding the upper layer of their working part, the next one is exposed, the diamond grains of which have not yet been worn out.

Stone cutters, on the working surface of which the diamond layer is applied by galvanic method, are less subject to deformation and allow processing with higher accuracy.

Figure cutters

With the help of cutters for panels (or figurines), thin boards of a certain configuration are made, which are framed by various decorative elements. Panels are most often used for the manufacture of decorative frames, as well as for the design of furniture facades. A panel element used exclusively for decorative purposes can be cut along the contour of the product. By means of milling cutters for a panel, it is possible to produce products that simultaneously perform two functions: they act as a decorative element and fix the elements to be connected to each other according to the “thorn-groove” principle.

On the modern market, various cutters for paneling are offered, involving the manufacture of such a decorative element in one or more passes. When manufacturing a panel in several passes, at each stage of the technological process, a layer of material is removed, for which the tool used is designed. As a rule, in such cases, not one tool for the panel is used, but a whole set of them.

Panel cutters can work in vertical and horizontal planes. Vertical milling cutters for panels process skirting boards and edges of cornices, which involves processing to a greater depth. Horizontal cutters for panels are distinguished by a larger diameter of the cutting part. With their help, they process furniture facades, shelves and door panels. Although cutters of this type can increase productivity, they are significantly inferior to vertical cutters in terms of depth of cut. It should be noted that almost no production is complete without panel-type milling cutters.

Spiral cutters

Spiral cutters are also actively used in furniture production. In appearance and design, they are very similar to drills. Like twist drills, there are grooves on their working part, with the help of which chips of waste material are removed from the processing zone. Spiral cutters are divided into the following categories:

• with a downward cut;
• with an upward cut;
• combining both mentioned types.

The main areas of application of spiral type cutters, which are presented in a wide range on the modern market, are.

If the interior view of your home leaves much to be desired, you want to make repairs, but just sticking wallpaper is already boring and not at all interesting. Then lining the walls with clapboard will be an excellent solution to your problem. Do-it-yourself wall cladding with decorative boards will be an ideal creative solution for you, and using lining will reduce your time searching for materials for cladding. You can choose the materials for the repair yourself, you can either purchase the lining as a ready-made, processed board, or process it yourself, however, for this you will need at least minimal skills in this area, as well as a special jointing machine with which you can make such boards .

What are cutters for?

In order to sheathe walls, special boards alone will not be enough for you; in addition to them, you will need to purchase a manual router, as well as nozzles for it - cutters. A milling cutter is a special nozzle for a tool that has any shape, on which teeth are applied, which, when rotated, exert a mechanical effect on the object. With the help of these cloves, you can cut various objects, process them, grind them, and so on.

On the modern market there is a huge selection of different nozzles, the main ones are:

• terminal;
• edging;
• cylindrical;
• disk.

Terminal

End mills for wood in many cases are of one-piece construction, composite types are rare. Such nozzles work mainly on the principle of the load produced on the wood by the side edge. In addition to forming joints on boards, end mills can be used for end milling, as well as creating complex patterns on wood.

edging

This type of cutter is the most popular among the craftsmen, these nozzles are designed to form the edge of the board. Due to the peculiarities of their structure, edge cutters can create an edge of various intricacies without going deep into the wood.

Cylindrical

This type is divided into several types:

• conical - used to create carvings on wood;
• spiral - needed for the manufacture of the edge of the board;
• grooved - designed to create grooves of various shapes and types.

Disk

They are the most convenient for creating and processing facing boards (lining).

Disc cutters are used for different purposes:

• for lining processing;
• for processing panels;
• for processing and grinding stone;
• for metal;
• specialized nozzles for various wooden products.

Cutters for manual work with clapboard, in turn, are divided into 3 types:

• bearingless;
• bearing;
• edging.

In the manufacture of the board itself, you will need bearing or edge cutters, for detailed processing, bearingless nozzles are suitable, for which you will need to purchase specialized equipment.

The lining is a special board, which has a groove on one side and a tongue and groove on the other. Therefore, you will need two types of cutters, the function of each of them will be designed specifically for processing the board on one side. The difference between cutters can be the diameter of the shank, the size of which determines the power required for their use.

Each disc cutter has a standard design, it consists of:

• the basis of the nozzle is the axis on which the entire main part is fixed;
• two disks are attached to the axle from above, on which cutting knives are located;
• The discs contain bearings.

The cutting teeth of the nozzle can be sharpened 3-4 times for reuse.

Milling machine

This is a machine with interchangeable nozzles. The milling cutter is mainly used for processing wood products, but with the purchase of additional equipment, it can also process plastic and metal. Such a machine has a rather small size for its functionality, it can be used for almost all purposes, from the manufacture of various parts to the processing of furniture and household items.

Milling tools are of various types:

• upper;
• edging;
• lamellar.

The use of such a device is very convenient and functional.

Self-made lining

Step-by-step instructions for performing work.

1. First you need to prepare or purchase even boards of the size you need. It is better to choose a length of no more than two meters in order to work with the material more conveniently. The width must be chosen and calculated independently (usually it is made 8-10 cm). When cutting boards, the remnants of the material do not need to be thrown away, they can be made into connecting rails.
2. Then you need to qualitatively process the board, preparing it for work.
3. After the board is completely processed, you can proceed to cut the tongue and groove. During this work, everything must be done clearly and measuredly, since the probability of doing something wrong at this stage is quite high. The board must be well and tightly fixed, the table on which the work will take place must be in a stable position. The depth of the groove and the width of the tongue must be constantly adjusted, since even with a minimum displacement, the board will be damaged.
4. In some cases, it will not be possible to get by with a manual cutter, since in the production of, for example, a calibrated board, more sophisticated equipment will be needed - a thickness gauge.

Throughout the entire time of work, all safety measures must be observed, it is necessary to use protective glasses and gloves, since various types of injuries can be obtained at all stages of processing.

Choice of cutters for wood

When choosing cutters, you need to take into account all their features, firstly, it is desirable that the cutters are made with high quality, in most cases the brand is a guarantee of quality, so it is best to buy tools that have already been tested by time, such brands include Shtil tools. Secondly, it is necessary to be guided by the strength of the material from which the cutter is made, it must be selected based on what material this tool will need to work with. And, thirdly, it is necessary to choose the right type and type of tool that suits your type of work, for example, as mentioned above, a disk cutter is more suitable for working with lining.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say that a person who is used to doing work with his own hands should have a set of all types of cutters for working with various materials and various details.

In our case, it can be noted that when performing facing work, all types of cutters are suitable, but for working with clapboard it is preferable to use disk cutters, which come in different types, each of these types is necessary at different stages of work.

After all the work, you will receive not only a beautiful interior view of your home and a storm of positive emotions, but also considerable savings, because when buying ready-made facing boards, you will have to spend almost twice as much as when purchasing a set of all necessary tools and making the lining yourself.

How to choose cutters for lining, see the following video.

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In the industrial production of lining, powerful woodworking machines are used, which make it possible to obtain products of excellent quality, but not all users can afford them. Is it possible to make a lining on your own and what is needed for this? We will talk about this in this article.

Lining - what kind of material is it

You will need this knowledge in order to independently make the best decisions during the manufacture of lining at home. The process of industrial production of lining consists of several stages.

That's the whole technology, there is nothing complicated, modern equipment allows you to automate production to the maximum. At home, this cannot be achieved, you will have to spend much more time to make distillation.

Table. Lining classes and their description.

class or grade	Description
	No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 running meter (knot diameter is not more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ of the panel long, non-through - less than 9.5 cm long (the exit of cracks is directed to the end of the panel), which appeared during drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. at 1 m p.
	A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. per 1 meter. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs per 1 meter) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
	The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

Prices for lining

List of minimum set of tools and equipment

First of all, you must have a special separate room for work, woodworking machines create a lot of noise and dust. You will have to comply with the requirements of the sanitary authorities. Another condition is that the electrical wiring must withstand additional loads, and they, depending on the brand of machines and their number, can increase significantly.

On a note! With your own hands, you can make both the simplest and rather complex lining, we will consider both manufacturing options. But there are a few prerequisites for all options.

General requirements

On what machines and no matter how difficult you try to make lining, you must comply with the following requirements.

1. lumber quality. Boards should only be edged, with the same thickness and width. Wide planes must be passed through the thickness gauge from at least one, and preferably from two sides. For these purposes, it is better to have a double-sided thicknesser at home, and if not, then at least an elementary planer.

If there are no such machines, then you can work with a manual electric planer. These works are quite difficult and long, and the quality will always be much lower than during the processing of lumber on machines.

Practical advice! We strongly recommend that you do not plan boards with a manual electric planer. It is much more profitable to take the lumber to a friend who has a double-sided thicknesser, in an hour or two of work you will miss 1-2 m 3 of boards - this amount is enough to finish a small village house. You will have to plan them manually for more than one day, while, as we have already mentioned, there will be no quality. Such lining can only be used for finishing auxiliary premises.

What machines and equipment are needed for the manufacture of do-it-yourself lining, we will tell in the course of the article. The fact is that there are a large number of technologies, taking into account existing machines, it is impossible to describe everything in one article. Let's start with the manufacture of the simplest lining - such work is available to most inexperienced craftsmen.

Price for a model range of jointers

This is the simplest version of the circular saw, others have additional calipers for fixing other woodworking mechanisms, which greatly expands their capabilities.

Step 1. Prepare lumber, decide on their quantity. For work, you will need boards about 15–20 mm thick and up to 10 cm wide, planed on both sides. You don’t need to do it wider, this is due to the fact that the lining has the most elementary profile, and it cannot guarantee the absence of warpage during operation. The lining will be connected in a quarter, and such a lock cannot completely eliminate warping. The wider the lining, the more important warping can be, in this regard, it is not recommended to make it more than 8 cm.

Step 2 Remove your workspace. Workpieces should be located on one side of the saw, finished products should be stored on the other.

Important! Nothing should get in your way under your feet, all attention will be paid to the working saw, there is no time to look under your feet - this increases the risk of injury. If the boards are longer than a meter, then do not work on your own, because it is difficult and very dangerous. In addition, the risks of serious injury increase significantly, and the amount of waste increases. The fact is that you will not be able to press it normally against the ruler at the exit of the board from the cutter, the linearity of milling is violated at the ends.

Step 3 Trim all the boards in length, inspect their surfaces. If there are black rotten loose knots, discard the lumber. At home, such knots cannot be processed, they will definitely fall out.

When storing blanks, pay attention to the location of the fibers, especially carefully monitor the location of defects in the development of wood. Loose areas are very difficult to process. Position the boards so that the grain is in the direction of rotation of the cutting tool, otherwise the surface finish will be unsatisfactory. On industrial machines, such problems almost do not arise, they work at high speeds, have at least four knives on one head, mechanical clamps eliminate the possibility of the board swaying during processing. Due to this, cutting conditions are observed perfectly, the quality of processing complex surfaces is significantly improved.

Important! Never remove the guard and wedge from the saw. They are not needed to keep sawdust flying into the eyes, as inexperienced carpenters think. Their main purpose is to prevent the board from hitting back, with such a departure it can pierce the abdominal cavity.

Step 4 Pull out the circular saw. If the width of the boards is not the same, then you first need to align them. To do this, set the saw ruler at the desired distance from the teeth and fasten it firmly. Pay attention that the ruler is parallel to the saw, this is very important. Factory machines have special marks, for home-made ones you will have to use a square. Checking the correctness of the position is done empirically. Take a small piece of board and saw through it, check the width and parallelism of the ruler. Repeat the installation if necessary.

Step 5 A simple lining has a quarter connection, it can be made on an ordinary circular.

To do this, you need to adjust the height of the saw table and its distance from the ruler. How it's done? To simplify the example, let's take a board thickness of 20 mm. Accordingly, the quarter will be 10 × 10 mm.

1. Release the ruler holder and slide it towards the saw. The distance between them should be 10 mm, carefully monitor the parallelism of the planes. Fix the ruler and check the correct installation. To do this, use any segments, skip a few for the test.
2. Adjust the position of the circular table so that the saw teeth at the maximum point are at a height of 10 mm.

After adjustment, your saw height and its distance to the ruler should be 10 mm. If the boards have other parameters, then the distances must be adjusted in accordance with them.

Step 6 Start making the connection at a quarter. The first pass - the board is flat, the side surface is pressed tightly against the ruler. After completion, the board has a cut along the entire length.

Important! Do not press the boards near the saw with your hand, use a wooden block. So that it does not slip off the end of the board, saw through a recess - it should simultaneously rest against the board from above and against the end. Never rest against the end of a long board with your stomach, hold it only with your hands, and the body should be located on the side.

Step 7 Set the board on edge, the cut should be on the side of the ruler, cut out a quarter. Immediately remove the cut rail from the table, do not litter the workplace.

Step 8 Rotate the board 180° and repeat the operation on the other side. The lining should have a mirror arrangement of quarters. If on one side the recess is located on top, then on the opposite side it should be on the bottom. During the installation of the lining, the joints overlap and close the joints.

Step 9 If possible, it is recommended to mill the visible side faces with a hand mill. Choose the cutter profile you like, firmly fix the board in an upright position and make a pass with the tool. How to work with manual cutters is described in detail in the manufacturer's instructions. By the way, the presence of a manual cutter greatly expands the possibilities, such a tool is recommended for everyone involved in carpentry.

If you use serviceable saws with victorious soldering, and the machine has sufficient stability, then in the manufacture of such a simple lining, you can completely do without a thickness gauge and a milling cutter. Properly selected saw speed and optimum feed rate ensure a good surface finish. If necessary, the latter can be processed in some places with a sandpaper or a grinding machine, and the outer surfaces of the lining will be quite satisfactory in quality.

Now let's look at how you can make eurolining on your own.

Prices for the popular range of circular saws

A circular saw

This is more complex work, you will need solid experience with woodworking machines. We will talk about the technology, and choose the dimensions of the lining and the profiles of the front surfaces yourself, taking into account the availability of tools and personal preferences.

What is the difference between eurolining and ordinary lining?

1. The tongue/groove connection is deeper. Due to this, the risks of translucence of the seams during a significant reduction in the width of the boards are eliminated, and the installation of the sheathing is simplified. It is easier to insert hardware for fastening into a deep groove.
2. The reverse side has one or two slots - the wall surfaces can breathe, static forces are reduced during the change in the linear dimensions of the lining. It is as a result of strong static forces that the cladding of the house can warp.

For the initial data, we take that the boards of the required sizes have already been prepared, the material has been sorted and stacked in the proper place.

Step 1. Mount the cutter for making a groove and a side decorative chamfer on the machine, adjust the depth. To do this, release the ruler, put the end of the board to the knife and, moving the ruler closer or further, find the desired position. Secure the cutter head and ruler with great force.

In order to correctly set all the knives on the head, you need to cut a piece of the board for testing. Next, put it back on the cutter and, slowly turning the head in the opposite direction, check if all the knives work. You can recognize this by sound, if everything is fine, then the number of minor touches on the board should correspond to the number of cutters. For example, if the head has four knives, and you only feel three touches, then this means that one knife does not work. Find which one, adjust its position. This is quite difficult to do, it will take several attempts. Make sure that the expansion wedges of the knives are strongly pressed against the head.

Step 2 Fasten the top and side clamps, set the desired distance. Such stops greatly facilitate the milling process, improve quality and increase safety. Skip all the boards on one side.

Step 3 Change the cutter to a new one, it should cut a groove and remove the decorative chamfer. The clamps do not need to be re-adjusted, the width of all boards is the same and did not change during the first pass.

Step 4 Remove the cutter for side surfaces, release the ruler and clamps. Install a cutter to make recesses on the inside of the lining. The size and number of grooves do not matter, select them at your discretion.

Practical advice! If you don't have special grooving knives, no problem, you can use the same ones that were used for grooving. Raise the head so that the groove knife is in the middle of the board. The groove knife is longer than the chamfer knives, set the distance to the ruler so that only it works. The depth of the groove in this case will be approximately 3-5 mm, which is quite enough for the groove.

Prices for the popular range of milling machines

What determines the quality of homemade lining

Working with lumber is much more difficult than working with metal. In nature, there are no two completely identical boards, not to mention the different properties of soft and hard rocks. The metal does not have knots, does not absorb moisture, has no malformations, etc. And these indicators affect the processing technology. Industrial equipment can greatly simplify the process due to the large mass of machines, precision adjustments, stable mechanical feed and strong pressure.

At home, all cutting parameters must be observed independently and quickly changed depending on the characteristics of the board and the capabilities of the machine. What should be remembered?

1. Pay attention to the location of the fibers, never process lumber "against the grain".
2. Check the condition of the bearings. The slightest beating will certainly affect the roughness of the surfaces. As soon as it is found that the machine shaft is slightly staggering, the bearing must be urgently changed or, if possible, adjusted. Tenths of a millimeter of vibration noticeably worsen the final quality.
3. The serviceability of cutting tools is one of the important components of surface cleanliness. Saws and cutters must be sharp. If you make cutters yourself, then use only durable grades of tool steel. The geometry of all cutters must be the same. Otherwise, some of them will not work, and this is a very undesirable phenomenon.
4. Accurately set the cutters, do not rush. It is very difficult for an inexperienced master to set all the cutters at once, do not be discouraged. Lose more time, but achieve the desired result. The time lost will be repaid in the long run.

   

5. The more cutters, the better. If the head allows you to set four, then do so, do not work with two. Four cutters slightly increase the installation time, but then the machine works more time - they become less blunt.

   

6. Always use exactly the same wedges to secure the knives. Even small differences in weight cause the head to vibrate. Vibration not only impairs the quality of processing, but also causes rapid wear of bearings, increases the risk of injury.
7. Observe the cutting conditions for lumber. This is a very important condition. The cutting conditions include the number of revolutions of the shaft, the number of cutting planes, the feed rate and the sharpening angle. You can talk on this topic for a very long time, cutting modes have a huge number of options. Beginning craftsmen need to get at least a little familiar with the theory, and in the future it all depends on the ability to practically learn and the desire to work with woodworking machines.
8. Before feeding the board to the machine, inspect it, select the optimal cutting direction, taking into account the characteristics of the surfaces, the presence and type of knots and other defects.
9. Fold the finished lining in even stacks, do not put it vertically, do not scatter it throughout the workshop. Cleanliness and order are evidence of the professionalism of the master.

   

10. If there is little experience, then the entry / exit of the board may be defective due to a slight change in direction of movement and non-parallelism with the ruler. Keep this in mind when determining the length of the lining, make a margin in length.

Fasteners must securely hold the lining and at the same time be completely invisible. To fix the panels to the crate, self-tapping screws, kleimers, screws are used, but this is the most practical option. But the nails for lining are not ordinary, but finishing, differing in the shape of the hat and some characteristics.

Video - The simplest do-it-yourself lining

Painting imitation timber: inside and outside the house, step-by-step instructions for preparing wax Do-it-yourself wooden porch

At leisure, I would always like to do something useful for myself, and some spend this time decorating their house or apartment, because creativity always brings joy. One of the options is the independent production of facing material, for which cutters for lining on a manual milling cutter are needed.

Making wooden panels yourself to sheathe a room with them is very interesting and exciting.

Making lining by hand

cutters

• Hand cutters for wood can be divided into bearing(or edge) and bearingless. The former are used for the manufacture of lining, and the latter are used for one-time processing of any part, but they require auxiliary equipment.

• Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining for a manual milling cutter may have ratio of diameter (D) to radius (R) panel groove: 9.5-4.8 mm, 12.7-6.35 mm, 15.8-7.9 mm and 199.5 mm. The shank diameter will remain 8 mm. For lining, such cutters can be used, but inconvenient.

• Such a cutter for lining, as in the photo above, can be used both with a manual milling machine and with a milling machine that is equipped with collets. The diameter of the cutters in this case 50 mm and 35 mm- according to the shank diameter 8 mm.

• Such a cutter for the manufacture of lining will allow you to make panels with any type of sheet pile. The most important thing is to correctly set up the machine and select the dimensions of the cutters in terms of depth and diameter.

Production of lining

• To make a lining with your own hands, you need to make even jointed blanks from unedged boards. First of all, make a cut along one side, and then determine the width of the future panel.

• To determine the width, pay attention to all the boards you have so that the panels are the same. Of course, there are no strict instructions with instructions here, but the most optimal board size will be from 7 to 10 cm.

• When planing boards, be very careful, because most of the injuries carpenters get during this process. Of course, they won’t cut off a hand or a finger here, but the wounds bleed very much and heal for a long time, although at the first moment you don’t even feel pain. To make the thickness of all the boards the same - count the number of passes along the cutter - of course, you will not achieve millimeter accuracy, but no one will notice the difference.

Advice. For processing, it is better to choose boards no more than 2m long, since longer ones are difficult to hold and the dimensions are inaccurate. Also, shorter boards will be easier to process with a hand router.

• When cutting down a wane, sometimes quite a lot of wood is left and it should not be thrown away. From this waste, you can saw thin rails for connection, and make a lining with grooves on both sides.

• When the board is cut and jointed, you just have to make a tongue and groove, that is, groove it around the perimeter. Install the cutter on the machine and, lowering or raising the table, adjust the depth of the groove. Move the ruler to the desired distance and make sure that during processing the board is always firmly pressed against its edge.