The blind area around the house is a protection for the foundation, which is designed to prevent soil erosion. The design removes melt and rainwater from the foundation, thereby also reducing the load on the waterproofing. At the same time, the service life of both the foundation and the entire building as a whole increases.
For those who have decided to construct a blind area around the house with their own hands, it will be useful to know that the construction of a blind area is regulated by SNiP 2.02.01-83, and general calculations are made taking these requirements into account. The maximum percentage of slope of the blind area should not exceed 10% according to SNiP III-10-75, and the deformation of the outer edge should not exceed 10 mm. The concrete used for the foundation blind area must meet the requirements of GOST 9128-97.

There are two main types of foundation blind area around the house:

• Concrete blind area (classic);
• Soft.

Concrete blind area around the house

There is no need to spare money on the foundation blind area, since the service life and how much money will be spent on repairs in the future will depend on the quality of the work done.
Design concrete blind area consists of two layers:

• Underlying. For the sealing base, fine crushed stone, sand and clay are used, the material is backfilled 2 cm thick;
• Final. This layer consists of small cobblestones, asphalt and concrete, the thickness of the coating is 10 cm.

Concrete blind area - step-by-step installation instructions

• At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare and outline the area for laying, the recommended width of the blind area is 70 cm;
• The soil is removed around the perimeter of the building and then compacted. The depth of soil removal will depend on the width of the foundation blind area. For a concrete protective structure, a 25 cm excavation will be required, which is approximately the length of a shovel;
• Often, when removing the top layer of soil, tree roots can be found; they need to be treated with herbicides so that the blind area system is not damaged in the future;
• Using 20 mm boards, formwork is built so that the earth is compacted and further subsidence does not occur;
• The first layer is sand;
• The second layer will be clay 10 cm high; after laying it, it must be compacted well and covered with the same layer of sand; water is used to compact the resulting structure. The sand that is located near the foundation needs to be compacted very well, but there is no need to overdo it, since there is clay underneath;
• Crushed stone with a layer of 7 cm is laid on top of the clay;
• In increments of 10 cm, the structure is reinforced using a mesh to strengthen the blind area. Good performance The concrete blind area has tensile and compressive loads;
• When building a protective system, you must not forget about the expansion joint at the junction of the plinth and the blind area. The presence of a seam will ensure that the blind area of ​​the foundation and plinth does not collapse in the future when the soil settles. Expansion joint is 1.5 cm and when the blind area settles, both the protective structure itself and the base will not be damaged; the resulting gap is filled with bitumen, sand and gravel;
• On last stage Concrete is poured for the construction of the blind area.

Soft blind area - features

Attractive view soft blind area, is much better than a concrete structure, but here during installation you need to be very careful so that the beauty does not harm the foundation. The soft blind area consists of two layers: the top one is decorative, it completely allows water to pass through, which gets into the bottom layer onto the waterproofing film. In the classical construction properties waterproofing film performs concrete.

Technology for constructing a soft blind area

Sequential algorithm:

• Clay is laid as the bottom layer over the entire width of the blind area with a slope of 10 cm. The clay must be clean, without any sand impurities, otherwise swelling of the protective structure of the foundation will occur. At 10 cm, the material is laid, followed by compaction and leveling;
• The waterproofing film is installed on top of the clay and attached to the surface of the foundation with a margin of 3-4 cm around the entire perimeter of the foundation. This will contribute to the integrity of the structure, even if the blind area moves away from the foundation. It is prohibited to use roofing felt as a waterproofing material, as it is not durable;
• The next 5 cm layer will be sand, it serves as waterproofing protection;
• Geotextiles made of propylene thread are laid across the entire width, the material prevents the ingress of sand and allows water to pass through well;
• Crushed stone is laid in a layer of 12-15 cm on top of textiles, which allows moisture to penetrate before waterproofing, and then flow away from the foundation system;
• Geotextiles are re-laid on crushed stone and then finishing occurs.

The material for finishing the blind area can be:

• decorative concrete;
• a natural stone;
• tile;
• paving stones and so on, all at the discretion of the owners of the country house.

The design of the soft blind area will significantly increase the service life of the foundation, since it is not afraid of moisture and negative temperatures.

Blind area insulation technology

Several building materials can be used as thermal insulation for a soft foundation area:

• Polyurethane foam;
• Extruded polystyrene foam.

Often, when constructing a soft blind area around a house, extruded polystyrene foam is used, since this material has high strength, zero capillarity, easy installation and processing, long service life and is an environmentally friendly product.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene occurs in 1 layer of 100 mm sheets or 2 50 mm sheets. Above insulation material Polyethylene is installed for increased protection at the joints.

Repair of concrete blind area

If the technology for constructing the blind area and foundation has been followed, then repairs to the structures will not take a very long time and problems should not arise. But sometimes cracks form on the blind area; there are several ways to eliminate it:

• Small cracks are eliminated with a 1:1 cement mortar;
• Large damage to the blind area is cut down and cleaned, and then filled with mastic: BND-90/130 70% bitumen. Cracks filled with mastic are covered with sand on top;
• If there is significant damage to the concrete blind area around the house, repairs must be carried out with fresh concrete. The surface of the structure is cleaned and primed cement mortar 1:1. And while the concrete has not hardened, it needs to be leveled.

Repair work to eliminate cracks in the foundation blind area is recommended to be carried out in cool weather, when concrete expansion does not occur. Otherwise, in sunny and hot weather the seams will narrow, which will not allow production high-quality repairs foundation blind areas.

Long-term operation of the house depends not only on a strong and reliable foundation, but also on the blind area. Thanks to it, the base structure is protected from destruction, and in addition, it protects the soil around the house from moisture. If water accumulates around the house, which can happen when snow melts and heavy rains, this can lead to erosion of the top layer of soil, as a result of which moisture reaches the foundation.

If it seeps deep into the earth to the base of the foundation, this will lead to damage to the base and its strength will significantly decrease, which will negatively affect the bearing capacity foundation. As a result, there may be a threat of destruction of the structure.

Some construction industry experts express the opinion that when arranging a drainage system, there is no need to install a blind area near the house. However, this opinion is deeply erroneous. The gutter protects the area near the foundation from water that drains from the roof. But it does not protect against precipitation, which regularly moistens the ground.

The role of the blind area is especially great in cases where it was used to build a house. shallow foundation. Its sole is located very close to the surface of the earth. Therefore, during heavy rainfall, water can quickly reach the base of the foundation. Under the influence of moisture, the sole erodes, it loses his profile and uneven subsidence occurs. The consequence of this is that deformation processes occur and subsequent destruction of the foundation occurs. However, even if a well-buried foundation is used, it is impossible to do without a blind area.

How to properly arrange a blind area around the house?

When the owner understands the need to create a blind area near his house, then, having learned that the reliability of the structure and its long service life depend on it, the main desire that arises in him is to make it last for a long time. This can be achieved if you use high-quality materials during construction, and in addition strictly follow construction technology.

The first thing to do is determine the width of the coverage. Protecting the foundation from moisture is its main purpose. Therefore, the width should be maximum. The further the path is located from the house, the less moisture it will absorb, and, therefore, the less risk of destruction of the foundation of the house.

Based on existing building codes, then the minimum width of the protective coating should be at least 0.8 m. There are no standards regarding the maximum width of the blind area. Here everything largely depends on the desires of the developer.

The main function that the blind area performs is to protect the foundation of the house from moisture. In addition, it is used as a path around the perimeter of the house. You should also pay attention to this when choosing it. If you make a path that is too narrow, then when walking along it a person will experience some discomfort, since he will have to move along it sideways or press against the wall. Based on all this, we can say that optimal width the tracks are one that varies ranging from 1 to 2.5 m.

When constructing a blind area, you need to think about its inclination. It is thanks to it that the water falling on the blind area will constantly drain away from the walls of the house. In Soviet times, standards determined the slope value in the range from 50 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width. This means that for a path that is 1 m wide, the height at the walls of the house will vary from 50 to 100 mm, and at the other edge it will be flush with the ground. Such steep descent paths will ensure optimal water drainage from the house.

Slope of the blind area

Water, once on the blind area, will quickly drain, creating inconvenience. If the slope is less, this will lead to water flowing slowly from the surface. In addition, walking on it will not be very comfortable. A compromise in terms of comfort and efficiency of the slope at the track can be considered slope 15 mm per 1 m width blind areas. When this covering has such a slope, then when walking on it a person does not experience any discomfort, and water does not retain on the surface. It completely flows down.

Basically, in order to ensure effective removal water from the surface of the path, a slope of 10 mm per 1 meter will be sufficient, provided that the surface of the path is smooth and level. However, there is also a drawback to a blind area with such a slope. The whole point is that in winter time walking on it is not comfortable enough as it becomes slippery.

If the owner decides to do protective covering not near the house, but along the perimeter of the garage, then its slope line at the entrance should be up to 30 mm per 1 meter. This will provide the greatest protection to the surface from rainwater, which will drain quickly enough. This will protect your garage from puddles and ice.

How to properly make this protective coating is one of important issues, which occurs when a person decides to arrange a blind area near his home. Its quality largely depends on the material chosen for its creation. There are several options for making a track, which involve the use of different materials. However, most often it is made of reinforced concrete.

In most cases, owners when creating a track use the following technology:

• the first step is to clean the site on which the blind area will be created;
• then they take metal rods with a cross-section of 6 mm and lay them in a mesh with cells whose size is 0.3x0.3 m. Knitted wire is used to connect them together;
• after this, formwork is created, which is made from unedged boards;
• the next step is pouring the formwork with prepared concrete;
• You should know that before you start making a blind area, you need to create a foundation. To do this, you need to remove along the perimeter the width of the future blind area. upper layer soil to a depth of about 13 cm. A little more should be removed near the walls of the base. In this case, the poured concrete will flow towards the house, slightly squeezing it. Additional fastening there is no need to create blind areas;
• after this, it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the building’s blind area, hammer in the pegs, and then tighten the cord;
• A layer of sand should be poured into the bottom of the trench, the thickness of which should be 5 cm. sand cushion will act as a base for concrete. Backfilling with sand need not be done if the area is dominated by sandy soil. It is necessary to mount the formwork on the cushion, and then lay out the reinforcing mesh. Only after this the concrete is poured. Great importance has an arrangement of fittings. It must be completely in concrete base. And to do this it needs to be slightly raised;
• for cooking concrete mortar M400 grade cement is used. In addition to this, sand and crushed stone are used. These components are taken in a ratio of 1:2:4-5.

Some specialists use ash to create a path. This material is a product of coal combustion in a thermal power plant. However, care must be taken when handling it as this particular material may be radioactive. If you create a blind area from it, the health of the people living in the house can significantly deteriorate.

Features of the blind area around the house

Creating a blind area, any or any other task in construction industry, has its own nuances that you need to know about before starting work.

The construction of the blind area should not be started immediately after the completion of the construction of the basement. Chernozem or clay is used when backfilling a trench. The soil will subside in any case. But this takes some time. If you start constructing a blind area without waiting for the soil to subsidence, then when moisture gets into the soil it will sag, which will lead to the following:

• the surface of the blind area is deformed;
• cracks may appear on it.

To avoid this phenomenon, it is necessary to perform backfill. You can use sand, which easily allows water to pass through. It will quickly sag and within a day you can begin work on constructing the blind area.

To create a blind area around the house, it is undesirable to use porcelain tiles. It has a smooth surface and is quite slippery. When the surface of such a coating is wet, there is a high risk of injury. In addition, the service life of such a blind area will be short. The tiles are laid on concrete surface . And when low temperatures it bursts, which leads to cracks.

Protection of the blind area

The main function performed by the blind area is to protect the foundation of the home. However, it would not be superfluous to protect the blind area around the house from water flowing from the roof getting on its surface. To do this, you need to think about creating an organized drainage system, which must be located along the entire perimeter of the roof. In this case, first the water must fall into gutters, and only then flow down the pipe. Of course, it will not be possible to completely get rid of water, but less of it will reach the surface, which will reduce the load on the surface of the blind area.

According to previously existing standards, a drainage system was required to be installed on buildings that had more than two floors. Currently, this system is used in every new house, regardless of how many floors it has.

In some cases, specialists carry out work on additional insulation blind areas around the house to minimize soil freezing in winter.

Most often used as insulation expanded clay is used, which is used instead of crushed stone in concrete mortar.

There is another way to insulate the blind area. It is poured in two layers, between which the insulation is laid. Foam plastic is often used as such.

How to make a blind area around the house?

Based on the information above, you can draw the following conclusions:

Conclusion

Every owner who has built a house dreams that his home will last for decades. This depends on the reliability and strength of the foundation and its protection from moisture, which is its main enemy. If the foundation of your home has waterproofing layer , this does not mean that it is well protected from moisture.

Frequent precipitation can lead to moisture penetration deep into the ground and destruction of the sole. The consequence of this will be deformation of the base and its gradual destruction. And this will negatively affect the reliability and service life of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to build a blind area around the house to protect the foundation.

It’s not that difficult to make, so every building owner can handle it on their own. The most important thing is that you need to use high-quality materials and strictly follow the technology for creating the blind area. Then you can ensure reliability for your mansion and there will be no doubt about its long service.

The concrete blind area, as a rule, is poured along the entire perimeter of the building and is like a stone belt around the house.

This design serves the following purposes:

1. Protects the foundation strip from moisture. It turns out that due to the presence of such concrete protection, melt water and simply rainwater They do not absorb directly under the walls, but move away from the house by about half a meter. Accordingly, the foundation does not collapse as much and lasts longer.

1. Strengthens general design Houses. This is possible because the concrete belt does not allow the walls to “diverge” and the foundation to move to the side.

Please note that the blind area is not a “panacea” for all ills.
That is, if the soil is very unstable and mobile, and the house is built incorrectly, then it will not be possible to protect the walls from deformation with the help of such concrete protection.

1. The technology of installing a stone belt around the house with your own hands allows you to slightly improve appearance Houses . After all, if such an “edging” is done carefully, it will visually emphasize the straight lines of the walls. The contrast of the stone with the lawn, for example, will also bring its own benefit.

So, it turns out that making a blind area is very desirable. And if you want to end up with a solid house with a reliable foundation, then definitely. Here you should not neglect this element of the building, because the estimate for the work will be small, but such a design will bring a lot of benefits.

Let's consider the key requirements for installing such a concrete belt.

Basic rules for constructing a blind area

First of all, it is worth noting that the design of a concrete blind area implies a width no less than the width of the roof eaves. And it’s best when the concrete protrudes at least another 20 centimeters to the side relative to the line of the cornices.

Important!
If there are mobile and subsiding soils around your house, then in any case concrete should be poured to a width of at least a meter.
Otherwise, the level of protection of the foundation from moisture will be very questionable.

The next point that you need to remember is that the technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete implies the presence of a slope from the plane of the walls to the ground. Otherwise, water simply will not drain from the surface of the belt. In principle, based on a width of one meter, the height difference should be from three to five centimeters.

As for what the thickness of the concrete blind area should be, the optimal figure is 10-15 centimeters (this is the thickness of the mortar layer). This is enough for the strength of the belt and the amount of materials is reasonable.

Advice: if you make a blind area from asphalt concrete, then take care that there are no various roots in the belt area.
The fact is that if such organic matter is present in the soil, it will gradually destroy the asphalt layer, because, of course, it is not.

We have considered the rules and nuances - now brief instructions for the installation of this structure.

Correct sequence of work

It is worth noting that we will “disassemble” the simplest and most universal filling option. Today, of course, there are many ways to construct a blind area, but there is no point in overpaying and “bothering” too much, believe me, the result, the effect, will be approximately the same.

Let's start with marking and rough work.

Preparatory stage

Marking and the first stage of work are performed as follows:

1. We drive pegs into the corners of the house. The distance from the line of the walls, as we remember, should be oriented towards the line of the cornices.
2. We stretch threads between the pegs - these will be beacons of the outer edge of the future blind area.
3. We take a shovel and go deep into the ground to a distance of 20 centimeters. We need to go through the entire perimeter of the house, naturally.
4. Along the outer edge of the recesses we install boards “on edge” of such a width that the tree protrudes slightly above ground level. This will be the blind area for pouring concrete.
5. Place a layer on the bottom of the trench and compact it.

At this point the preparation is completed, you can proceed to the next stage.

Laying the waterproofing layer

Waterproofing the structure is very important work, the quality of which ultimately determines the reliability of the entire structure as a whole.

That is why here you need to carefully and responsibly treat not only the work process, but also the choice of material.

The essence of waterproofing is that strips of roofing material are laid on top of compacted crushed stone.

It is important here that there is roofing material good quality– on a film basis. The price of such rolls, of course, is more expensive than the material with a paper layer, but the strength is completely different. Expensive roofing felt is unlikely to tear while pouring the mixture.

So, you need to do a very simple thing - roll out roofing material along the entire perimeter of the trench with a slight overlap on the plane of the wall.

After this, it is necessary to mount the frame from the reinforcement and actually pour the concrete.

Frame installation and concrete pouring

We cut the reinforcement rods with a length slightly larger than the width of the trench. The ends of the rods must be inserted into the wall, in advance drilled holes. If the house is brick, then the holes are easily made with a hammer drill. But if these are very durable stone blocks, then it is likely that you will need a service such as diamond drilling holes in concrete.

The distance between the holes should be about a meter or one and a half.

It turns out that the order of work here is as follows:

1. We insert the reinforcement into the holes.
2. We lay long rods on top that will run parallel to the line of the walls.
3. We tie the metal with steel wire.
4. We prepare a concrete mixture based on crushed stone and fill the blind area (don’t forget about the slope).

1. When everything is dry, remove the formwork and the structure is ready for use.

In principle, this is the end of the work. If you did everything without saving and from quality materials, then the blind area will last a very long time and without any cracks. By the way, if in the future you need to make any niches in it (for example, for laying sewer pipes), then cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels will be relevant - everything will be done smoothly and accurately.

Let's summarize.

Conclusion

We have figured out in sufficient detail how to construct a concrete blind area and why it is needed at all. As you can see, everything here is quite clear and there is nothing super complicated in this matter. We hope that all the information provided above will be useful to you in practice.

Well, if you want to learn even more information on this topic, we recommend that you also watch the video in this article.

And if you are interested detailed device blind areas made of concrete - the estimate is attached in other materials on our information portal.

Any homeowner (bathhouses, garages and other buildings are also considered) really wants his building to require repairs as little as possible. And the first concern is the safety of the foundation. To do this, it is important not only to plan and build correctly, but also to drain water - groundwater and precipitation. Lead groundwater the drainage system is engaged, and sediment is removed using a blind area. This equipment does not have the most complicated design: a blind area of ​​any type is easy to make with your own hands. There is not a lot of work and costs, but it solves several problems.

Functions and tasks

We have long been accustomed to the fact that there should be a path around the house: it gives the entire layout a finished look. Especially if combined with finishing materials, which decorate the building. In addition, it is practical: you can walk along the path. And the fact that the path is a blind area, and its main purpose is to drain water, is a successful combination of the properties and qualities of materials and a well-thought-out design.

The main function of the foundation blind area is to remove sediment from it

If you look at it from a utilitarian point of view, the blind area drains rain and melt water from the foundation. The second very important practical task that can be solved with its help is to insulate the foundation. If you put insulation under the walkway, it will protect the house from freezing, which will greatly reduce heating costs.

When should a blind area be done? Immediately after finishing the external walls, but before finishing the basement. Why is that? Because a compensation gap must be left between the finishing of the blind area and the wall of the house. This is an excellent path for water that flows down the wall of the house (falls on the walls during slanting rain, for example). But it is impossible not to make this gap - the foundation will collapse. It is also unrealistic to seal the gap hermetically. The solution is to make sure that water does not get into the gap in any case. This can only be achieved if the base trim hangs over the seam. Then the water will flow a few centimeters further from the seam, and then fall into the drainage grooves. This can only be done if you first organize the blind area and then finish the base.

Why do you need a foundation blind area, when to do it, we figured it out, now it remains to understand how to do it correctly.

Blind area dimensions

It is necessary to remove sediment from the foundation along the entire perimeter. That’s why a protective belt is made around the house. The width of the blind area is determined depending on the type of soil on the site and the length of the eaves overhang. In general, it should be 20 cm wider than the roof overhang. But SNiP sets minimum standards: on normal soils the width of the blind area is at least 60 cm, on subsidence soils - at least 100 cm.

The width of the blind area of ​​the house is at least 60 cm on normal soils and at least 100 cm on subsiding soils

Also in the manual for SNiP 2.02.01-83 there is paragraph 3.182. There are the following instructions:

Blind areas around the perimeter of buildings must be prepared from local compacted soil with a thickness of at least 0.15 m. Blind areas should be arranged with a slope in the transverse direction of at least 0.03. The edge mark of the blind area must exceed the planning mark by at least 0.05 m. Water falling on the blind area must flow freely into the storm drainage network or trays.

From this passage it is clear that the depth depends on the technology chosen, but cannot be less than 15 cm.

Device technology

Any blind area consists of an underlying layer and a protective coating.

Backfill: what materials to use

The purpose of the underlying layer is to create a level base for laying the protective coating. Its thickness is about 20 cm. Sand and crushed stone are often used for these purposes, but native soil or clay can also be used.

Sand and crushed stone are used on well-draining soils. In this case, sand is first laid, spilled and compacted. Then there is a layer of crushed stone, which is also compacted.

If the soil on the site is clay or loam, then it is better to use native soil. If, with such soils, crushed stone or sand is laid around the foundation, then water will certainly be present near the house. Because it turns out that the density of the soil outside the underlying layer will be higher. This will cause water to accumulate under the blind area. If, with this design, a drainage pipe is laid around the perimeter of the bedding, the problem will be solved. And it’s effective. But there will be more work, and the cost of the blind area with drainage will be higher.

Types of protective coating

The covering for the blind area must meet many requirements:

• should not allow water to pass through;
• must be frost-resistant;
• have increased abrasion resistance;
• should not be destroyed by water.

This could be paving slabs or paving stones. The shape and color can be very different - choose based on general design territory, houses of nearby buildings. The thickness of these materials is at least 6 cm; only in this case will they withstand harsh operating conditions.

You can use slabs or tiles made from natural or artificial stone, you can lay out the paths with large pebbles or pour crushed stones on top of all layers.

There is another type that is becoming increasingly popular - this is a soft blind area. It has few layers but works effectively. There may not be any hard or waterproofing layer on top: you can pour soil and plant grass or flowers. Interesting solution for a summer house or country cottage.

All these options are not bad, but the cost of their arrangement is quite high. If there is a need or desire to do it cheaply and cheerfully, your choice is a concrete blind area. There will be a lot of work, but the total cost is low.

General principles

Depending on the soil on the site and the purpose of the building, they can be used different materials and structure of layers, but there are some points that are always present:

How to make a blind area at home with your own hands

First, markings are made along the perimeter of the building using pegs and laces. The following is the order of work:

• Removed vegetation layer and some soil. The depth of the trench depends on the size of the underlying layer and the thickness of the protective coating. Usually - 25-30 cm.
• The bottom is treated with herbicides. This is necessary to prevent plants from growing in this area. They are able to destroy even concrete and asphalt, and they grow instantly between tiles or paving stones.
• The bottom of the trench is leveled, forming the required slope and compacted.
• The underlying layer is laid and compacted, maintaining the slope. It is advisable to compact everything using a vibrating platform. Manual tamping is ineffective. Density is especially important when laying concrete, but it is advisable to compact it well under tiles or paving stones: it will not collapse or warp.
• A protective coating is laid.
• A drainage groove is formed.

It's very short and sketchy. Each coating has its own characteristics, and each needs to be discussed separately.

Concrete blind area around the house

The most widespread covering is concrete. It turns out to be the most inexpensive. Traditionally, the underlying layer consists of poured compacted sand (10 cm) sand, on top of which compacted crushed stone (10 cm) is laid. As already mentioned above, this scheme works normally on well-draining soils.

If there is clay or loam around the house, make the underlying layer from native soil. To reduce the effect of heaving and avoid cracking, pour 10 cm of sand on top of the compacted soil, and then lay concrete on it. This way the concrete will crack less, but you will not get rid of cracking completely: especially in regions with harsh winters. In such conditions, it is better to make a blind area from crushed stone or pebbles - there will be no problems with cracking. If funds allow, they make it from tiles. For harsh winters, with correctly selected layers of substrate, they stand well.

In general, on heaving soils it is advisable to make drainage that will drain the water flowing from the tape. This will be an effective and reliable solution. All the rest are just half measures. Drain pipe positioned so that water from the coating gets into it.

Rules for concreting a blind area

Formwork is installed and secured along the perimeter of the marked area. Most often, the board is of sufficient height, secured with pegs and spacers.

To reduce surface cracking, reinforcement is often used. To do this, a mesh of steel wire with a cell size of 10-25 cm is laid out on the finished underlying layer.

Wooden planks treated with antiseptics are laid on top of the mesh (if there is one). The thickness of the planks is 2.5 cm, and they can be treated with hot drying oil. These strips are damper joints that will prevent the concrete from cracking when temperatures change.

The planks are set while maintaining the slope from the house. The rule is then “pulled” along them, leveling the solution.

To make the surface strong and smooth, ironing is carried out. Almost immediately after pouring, while cement laitance is still on the surface, the concrete is sprinkled with cement (can be crushed several times) and rubbed with a trowel or plaster float. A thin but strong, smooth and slightly shiny surface is formed on top. It is very resistant to abrasion.

The last stage is concrete care. The path is covered with a damp cloth. During the week, it is regularly moistened (sprayed from a hose or watering can). The fabric should remain damp. To avoid hassle with watering, you can cover it with film, but it is more difficult to keep it in one place.

Concrete for blind area

For the blind area, standard sand and gravel concrete is used. Darkness is preferably at least M150. It can be higher: the higher the grade, the more durable the protective coating will be. The proportions for preparing the solution for the blind area can be selected from the table. They are given for concrete grade M400 - not very expensive, the characteristics are normal.

Insulated blind area

It only makes sense to install an insulated blind area in a heated house. In buildings seasonal residence, in which above-zero temperatures are not maintained in winter, this makes no sense. The meaning of adding a double layer of insulation:

If the insulated blind area of ​​the house is laid at the design stage, then one more reason is added: if this detail is present, reduction factors are applied in the calculation. That is, the foundation has a lower height, and therefore less cost.

An option for installing an insulated concrete blind area with a drainage system is demonstrated in the video. Everything is described normally, they just didn’t specify what to do if the layer of loose soil is more than 40 cm, which is required for the blind area. In this case, it must be filled with soil having a density higher than that located on the site. If there is clay on the site, then only that can be used. If it is loam, you can take either clay or loam.

One point: lay the clay not in a dry state, but diluted to a paste. The technology is old, but nothing better has been invented yet. It is laid out in layers, trying to avoid the formation of air pockets - water will certainly stagnate in them (or someone will settle).

Blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles

This is one of the types of soft blind area. It's easy to do it yourself. This system is used if there is a drainage system or the soil drains water well, and there is no clay or loam under the plant layer.

The order of work is as follows. A layer is laid in a dug trench on a leveled and compacted bottom. This material is not thick, but very elastic. It will prevent crushed stone or pebbles from being pressed into the ground. And the path will not sag. Crushed stone is poured on top and compacted. Layer thickness 10-15 cm, fraction 10-80 mm. All.

If desired, the gravel blind area can also be insulated. Then 50 mm thick EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is laid in the trench on compacted and leveled soil, and a geomembrane is laid on top high density, and you can already use pebbles or crushed stone on it. But it is not advisable to walk along such a path.

Do-it-yourself blind area made of tiles or paving stones

There are several device options, but the most optimal and versatile are “pies” using geotextiles.

For example, one of them is shown in the figure. It can be used to construct a blind area on heaving soils with harsh winters. Note:

It is advisable to use geomembranes as waterproofing. They are made from high density polyethylene. By brand: you can take Tefond, Isostud, Fundalin, TechnoNIKOL Planter Standart, etc. They cost around 150-250 rubles/m2.

Geotextiles available different brands and different densities, with different functional purpose. Choose based on the geology of the site. Their price is from 15 to 50 rubles/m2.

When constructing a blind area with your own hands, the main thing is to make sure that the water leaves the foundation and does not collect in the sand or crushed stone layer near the house. What will definitely happen if the soil is heaving (clay or loam), the underlying layer is made of sand and crushed stone, and there is no drainage.

The longevity of a building depends on the condition of the foundation, the health of which is determined by reliable and efficient drainage surface waters from home at any time. This task is performed by the blind area, which primarily has protective function. One of the most common and accessible is the technology of arranging a concrete blind area around a building. Its correct design, created with your own hands, will effectively perform its functions for many years.

What does it represent?

The blind area is an external waterproof basement concrete structure in the form of a continuous path along the perimeter of the building, sloping from the wall towards the surrounding terrain adjoining plot. Its arrangement involves a tight but movable connection to the base of the house.

The structure is a layered “pie” consisting of materials that together keep the foundation dry. The basis of such protection is in proportion: a compacted, even underlying layer of sand (crushed stone, clay), waterproofing and a coating - concrete, which ensures the waterproofness of the structure.

Functions performed

A properly equipped blind area ensures the longevity of the structure, preventing the destruction of the foundation and structures of the house by moisture from precipitation and melt water. A blind area without concrete, created with your own hands, is a temporary measure that does not solve the entire complex of problems of such a design.

Main function correct blind area- divert and transport water a sufficient distance from the foundation towards the lowest place on the site or into a storm drain.

In addition to the function of a horizontal hydrobarrier, the blind area (especially insulated) reduces the freezing of the soil around the house, which reduces the likelihood of it swelling (rising), and also reduces the thermal conductivity of the building. A blind area without concrete does not prevent periodic moistening of the soil close to the foundation and, as a result, harmful effects which can be caused by hard plant roots. Safety device also gives the building an aesthetically finished look and can be used as pedestrian path.

Requirements for the blind area and design rules

Diagram of a structure using reinforced concrete.

The encircling protective structure must have the same width, the value of which is 20–30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves beyond the wall of the building. It is generally accepted that it is about 1 m (or more on subsiding soils). The blind area is buried to no more than half the depth of soil freezing in the area. Thickness concrete covering selectable within 7 – 10 cm (up to 15 cm if used as a path).

The recommended slope of the coating is 92 - 94 degrees relative to the wall of the building (or 10 - 100 mm per 1 meter of blind area width). The height of the base above the blind area at the junction of the structure is set to 50 cm. Its outer lower edge should be raised approximately 50 mm above ground level, which prevents the accumulation of water at the edge. The technology for creating a structure assumes the possibility of its integral movement following soil deformations relative to the foundation, which ensures near-wall.

How to make a blind area?

Markings are made on the area and removed fertile layer land. The underlying (clay) is laid. Geotextiles (for example, roofing felt) are laid. The formwork is formed taking into account expansion joints. The area is reinforced. Concrete for the blind area is prepared in the correct proportion and poured into the formwork. The coating surface is drawn out with the selected slope along the edge of the formwork and leveled. The concrete is given time to dry.

Preparation of tools and materials

The marking quality is checked building level.

For earthworks You will need shovels, a pick, twine, a tape measure, a tamper, and pegs. The required volume of geotextile (waterproof film) for the water seal should be calculated. Required in the right amount and proportions of components for mixing concrete (washed sand, water, gravel, crushed stone of fractions 5 - 10 mm, cement) or (for example, grade M400 and higher). Tools also include a mixer (container) for forming the solution, buckets, carts (stretchers), and a measuring bucket. The laying of the underlying layer must be provided with sufficient sand (clay).

The formwork is formed from boards, but a hacksaw, level, nails, and hammer are also useful. (steel wire), which should be delivered. Will be needed welding machine, a tool for cutting pieces of reinforcement. A long rule, trowel, and spatulas will help in laying and leveling concrete. The construction of seams will require polyurethane sealant.

A trench is marked around the house with pegs and string. The level at which the blind area adjoins the plinth is marked with beacons in increments of 1.5 m. Layer fertile soil is removed around the building, taking into account the layout of the surrounding surface. The bottom of the trench is compacted and leveled with the already formed slope (herbicides can be added). The depth of the passage can be 500 mm (on heaving soils).

Creation and compaction of a sand cushion

The bottom of the trench is lined with sand, the surface of which is also profiled with a slope. The material is abundantly moistened and compacted. The operation should be repeated at least twice. The thickness of the layer can be up to 20 cm. Its surface is carefully leveled.

Using roll waterproofing materials for blind area.

Its device involves laying two layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt) on a sand substrate, which are slightly folded onto the wall to create an expansion joint. At the joints the material is overlapped. Next, the geotextile is covered more thin layer sand, and then gravel (about 10 cm thick) with a slope of the top layer and compacted. It is advisable to place close to such a water seal drainage system.

Creating formwork

A removable wooden form encloses the concrete pouring area. It is reinforced with strong pegs with outside. The form provides for transverse expansion joints(after 2 - 2.5 m), which are installed, including at the corners of the formwork diagonally. Their tightness is formed by placing them on edge wooden blocks(butyl rubber belts), impregnated with waste oil and coated with bitumen.

The edges of the mold must be straight for the rule to apply. The difference in its height must correspond to the slope of the blind area. The height of the formwork corresponds to the thickness of the concrete. The expansion joint near the wall (10 - 20 mm wide) is filled with roofing material (hydro-swelling cord).

Reinforcement and filling

The process of pouring the blind area of ​​a house with concrete.

Used metal grid 50x50 (100x100) mm, which can be linked to pieces of reinforcement driven into the base in increments of 0.75 m. The mesh is raised above the level of crushed stone by 30 mm. Concrete is mixed and poured with your own hands in portions into the formwork sections to the level of its upper edge.

There should be no air pockets in the concrete. Correct proportions concrete mixture for blind areas they must correspond to frost resistance. The composition of concrete for the blind area is traditional (corresponding grade from M400 and above). Components that increase strength and durability can be added to the solution in proportion.