Grandiflora is more than just a flower. This beauty born in late autumn reveals
poses a challenge to withering, depression and lethargy. Her biological clock is set to the time when we are most in need.
in energy supply. And the chrysanthemum gives us in the fall its amazing, powerful energy that lay dormant in
It was there all summer and splashed out with the onset of short cold days.

This power can only be compared to the spring blooming of tulips or summer fields of poppies. The strongest
chrysanthemum was elected Queen of the ball. Looking at the photographs, try to find out which flower the visitors
exhibitions were awarded this title and thereby you will determine how much your views on beauty correspond
generally recognized. You will see the answer at the very bottom of the post under the cut.

"Soleil Nichols." These luxurious golden flowers are amazingly beautiful. They bowed their heavy heads, tired of
the seething life that overwhelms them.

"Red flag". It seems that these fiery red tight hemispheres of inflorescences are about to explode with festive fireworks.

In Japanese, the words “sun” and “chrysanthemum” are synonymous and are written and pronounced the same. Even the main one
Japan's award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum.

"Frost". A flower with snow-white, gracefully writhing petals is beautiful and harmonious in its apparent
disorder.

"Cassandra." Large flowers with small petals shimmering in different shades of pink look like a crown
Trojan princess and soothsayer.

"Lorna Doon Salmonicolor". The combination of copper-red and sunny yellow shades creates a glowing effect
flower.

"Lorna Doone." Pompous forms and delicate creamy color transitions organically merge in this chrysanthemum.

"Reflex". A spherical variety of English selection. Globular chrysanthemums are again gaining popularity, especially in
England and Germany.

How can you not love them, these beautiful white flowers are symbols of purity and innocence!

"Golden Niva" A bright lemon-yellow chrysanthemum with its petals seems to accumulate sunlight.

Archaeologists have found the first image on Chinese porcelain made 2,500 years ago. Chrysanthemum
was considered a sacred flower, so only members of the imperial family could wear its image.

"Nocturne". Music embodied in a flower. The pink light of the evening dawn, the radiance of the first star, the silvery moonbeam...

"Nikolina." This anemone-shaped chrysanthemum is like a golden brooch on the chest of autumn.

"Miss Oakland" A bright blonde in a frilly golden hairstyle.

In China, chrysanthemum petals are used to make delicious desserts that taste like delicate cakes.

"Papakha." Classic white flowers with picturesquely curved petals will decorate any holiday.

"Purple Moon" Such a name could only be given to this amazingly beautiful flower with tubular petals.
Chinese, whose poetic associations are often very unexpected to our ears.

"Sirius Gold". Magnificent in its golden glow. Nowadays, golden and greenish shades of chrysanthemums are very fashionable.

It takes breeders at least a year to develop a new variety. Of the hundred varieties of Nikitsky Garden new at the exhibition
was twenty.

"Napoli". A very decorative bush variety of chrysanthemums. Golden inflorescences, similar to medallions, are framed
small white petals.

"The Gray Baron" It’s very difficult to compete with this gorgeous flower, rich in shades, festive and elegant.
other varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums.

"Sun Elf" Curved, richly colored petals, darker at the base, add relief
this picturesque flower.

Only some varieties of early flowering chrysanthemums can be successfully grown in open ground in Russia. Majority
It blooms well only in greenhouse conditions.

"Brown-eyed." This chrysanthemum is magnificent in its laconic forms and combination of different shades of purple color.
Through the efforts of breeders, it has moved so far from its usual appearance that it does not even resemble its ancestor.

Chrysanthemum can be propagated by dividing the bush, green cuttings and seeds. By the way, if you grow in your garden
several varieties of chrysanthemum, you can become the founder of a new variety that is formed through cross-pollination
flowers.

"Tenderness". Surprisingly accurate correspondence between the name and appearance of the flower. These nuances of color transitions from
white to pale pink and yellow are barely noticeable.

"Terra Rossa". Chrysanthemum of a unique pink-terracotta color. Incredibly beautiful!

Tea made from chrysanthemum petals is now becoming increasingly popular all over the world. In addition to the wonderful mild taste
it also has a lot of healing properties.

"Ocher Ray" A golden chrysanthemum piercing space with its thin tubular rays-petals.

"Linda". Lilac pink romantic mess!

"Sasha." Brightness, originality of shape, abundance of flowering make this variety indispensable in landscape gardening.
registration
“Here the “chicken feet” are bloody in color
They look into the sky, shining with a golden border...

The magnificent “celebratory ball” bent over the ground
Pinkish fancy fringe...
O noble flower! You are the heart of a poet!
I sing about you - and the soul comes to life,
And when I think about our homeland -
My hopes blossom like a chrysanthemum.

"Parade". The Queen of Autumn is a gentle and at the same time majestic chrysanthemum in full bloom. We haven't had time yet
the very first lower petals have dried up, and the core of the flower has already opened slightly, revealing the hidden, intended
for procreation...

"Gossamer Golden Brown." Openwork interweaving of thin beige petals between amber beads...

"Rayonant Pink." Pale pink with a lilac tint, graceful needle-shaped petals look like starched stripes
the finest Chinese silk.

"Rayonant Bronze". Golden culmination, fireworks of the autumn ball!

"Dawn". Every ball someday ends and eyes, tired of the bright beauty, will finally rest, having waited
pink dawn...

"Faith". I want to drown in these snow-white foamy waves, covered with a pink blush.

"Revert". Lemon yellow spherical needle chrysanthemum in classic Japanese style. In the rays of the sun it is very
Its translucent upward curved petals are spectacular.

"Summary". Gorgeous large pink and purple flowers with a beautiful clear silhouette. They seem perfect to me
form.

"Dark Flame of Soft Gold." The Chinese, as always, are original in the names of varieties. But this one is one of the few
late-blooming chrysanthemums are undoubtedly worthy of such an ornate name.

"Torch". This chrysanthemum has matte and lighter-colored petals on the underside. This gives the flower
picturesqueness and completeness.

Here you can see:

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are popular among gardeners. These attractive plants look spectacular both in a flowerbed and in a bouquet. Moreover, they flourish at a time when all other crops are already withering. From this material you will learn how to grow and propagate flowers, the nuances of caring for them.

A little history

Large-flowered chrysanthemums, photos of which are given in the material, are herbaceous perennials and belong to the Asteraceae, or Asteraceae, family. Translated from Greek, their name means “sunny flower”. This name appeared due to the golden hue of the petals, inherent in most varieties of the plant.

China is considered the birthplace of chrysanthemums. According to legend, 2.5 thousand years ago this flower was bred by a local breeder and named it Chu hua, which means “gathered together.” Now there are 29 species of this genus, and they are distributed in all northern and temperate zones of the globe.

But most chrysanthemums are grown in Japan. It was brought here by Buddhist monks back in the 4th century. And here the flower is considered a symbol of the country; it is even depicted on the coat of arms of the imperial seal. Indeed, in ancient times, only truly influential people could decorate themselves with chrysanthemum buds.

Flowers came to Europe only in the 18th century. And since then they have become favorites of gardeners.

Botanical description

Large-flowered chrysanthemum is a perennial shrub with a branched powerful rhizome. The culture reaches up to a meter in height. The branching long shoots of the plant are pubescent or bare. The leaves of the flower, painted in light or dark green tones, are simple, alternately arranged. But depending on the variety they differ in shape and size.

Small chrysanthemum flowers are collected in a large basket, reaching up to 20 cm in diameter. The buds can be simple or double. The most common are Indian, Chinese and Japanese large-flowered chrysanthemums. Such flowers are distinguished by massive bud heads, unpretentious character and a variety of shades. Below you will find some attractive varieties.

The best varieties

Breeders have developed many varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums. The following varieties have earned particular popularity:

• Gazelle. The variety is valued by gardeners for its large heads, reaching 14 cm in diameter. Terry buds are painted snow-white. They bloom at the end of August and delight with their attractive appearance until frost. Tall shrubs need staking or support.
• Valentina Tereshkova. The variety was bred by Crimean breeders. It is distinguished by its unpretentious character and large head of buds, reaching 13-14 cm in diameter. The upper petals of the flower are painted in red-crimson tones, while the lower petals have a lighter, pink tint. The plant grows up to 60-70 cm in height. Blooms in early September.
• Alec Bedser. This variety of chrysanthemum reaches 70 cm in height. The buds are hemispherical in shape and 14 cm in diameter, painted in a rich yellow color. Moreover, the inner petals are darker than the outer ones.
• Diplomat. A variety bred by English breeders. Flat terry buds reach 15 cm in diameter. The petals are painted in wine red and purple tones. The plant reaches a meter in height and needs support. Each bush forms 3-4 buds.

Each of these varieties will decorate your garden plot. And if you want to create a truly attractive flower garden, then plant a mixture of colors of large-flowered chrysanthemums. These seed sets contain several varieties of crops. And thanks to such an assortment, a real riot of colors is created. To grow such beauty, you will need to make some efforts and create comfortable conditions for the crops.

Growing from seeds

If you managed to purchase potted large-flowered chrysanthemums, then all you need to do is plant the flowers in open ground in mid-May. And then by autumn they will delight you with large buds. But, unfortunately, it is not easy to get such plants. Therefore, many gardeners grow flowers from seeds. Next you will learn how to do this.

Start the event in mid-January. To grow flowers, take store-bought soil or prepare the substrate yourself from greenhouse soil, peat and humus mixed in equal parts. Before planting, it is necessary to disinfect the soil. To do this, bake it in the oven or hold it over steam.

It is better to grow a mixture of large-flowered chrysanthemums in containers. Sowing process:

1. Place a drainage layer of broken bricks or expanded clay on the bottom of the container.
2. Pour the substrate, spread the seeds of large-flowered chrysanthemums and lightly press them into the soil.
3. Spray the planting with warm water from a spray bottle, then cover the container with glass or polyethylene.
4. Place the greenhouse in a room with a temperature of +23…+25 °C.
5. Ventilate the crops regularly and spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle.

In 10-14 days the first shoots will appear. As soon as this happens, move the greenhouse to a lighted place and begin to harden off the seedlings. To do this, remove the covers first for an hour, then for two, and so on.

When 3-4 true leaves appear on the sprouts, transplant them into separate cups, being careful not to damage the roots of the seedlings. Grow picked seedlings of large-flowered chrysanthemums in a room with a temperature of +16...+18 °C. Do not forget to water the plants regularly, and also feed them with complex fertilizers twice a month. If the room is not light enough, then arrange additional lighting with photo lamps.

Planting in open ground

Plant seedlings in open ground when the risk of night frosts has disappeared, that is, in mid- to late May. To grow large-flowered chrysanthemums, choose a lighted area on a hill, but the place should be protected from the wind. Plants prefer neutral or slightly acidic fertile loams. If you have clay or sandy soil, then before planting, add humus or humus to the soil along with complex fertilizers.

Start planting on a cloudy, or even better, rainy day. If the weather is unsuitable, hold the event early in the morning. How to plant flowers:

1. Dig a trench measuring 45 x 50 cm.
2. Place the flowers in the recesses along with a lump of earth. Keep a distance between seedlings.
3. Fill the voids with soil, lightly compact the top layer and moisten the planting. It is advisable to water the flowerbed with a solution of “Kornevin” at the rate of 1 g per liter of water.
4. Immediately after planting, pinch the plants, that is, remove the top growing point.
5. Cover the seedlings with lutrasil.

Remove the cover when the plants take root and begin to grow.

Flower care

Growing large-flowered chrysanthemums will not cause much trouble. However, there are several rules that should be followed in order to get beautiful flower caps. First of all, when the plants are strong enough, you need to remove the side shoots, leaving only strong branches. Most varieties need additional support, because the shoots cannot support the weight of large heads. Therefore, tie plants to stakes or string chicken wire next to them. The rest of flower care consists of regular watering, periodic feeding and preparation for the winter.

Watering

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants. And they need regular and abundant watering. The slightest lack of moisture will lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness of flowers. Therefore, moisten the bushes 2-3 times a week as soon as the top layer of soil dries. For watering, use rain or settled water. Irrigate the bushes strictly at the root, avoiding moisture getting on the leaves.

When the water is absorbed, be sure to loosen the soil. Otherwise, a crust will form on it, blocking the access of air to the roots. And this will have a bad effect on the beauty of the flowers. Remove weeds during the event. To reduce crop maintenance and avoid weeding and loosening, mulch the area with a layer of peat, fallen leaves or humus.

Top dressing

Large-flowered chrysanthemums respond very gratefully to fertilizers. And it is advisable to feed the crops at least three times per season. Fertilize the bushes with ammonia nitrogen for the first time at the beginning of active growth, approximately 6-8 weeks after planting. This will help the crops grow green mass.

After 2-3 weeks, feed the flowers with organic fertilizers, such as burnt mullein or bird droppings. But be careful with these substances, because they cause burns to the roots. Therefore, do not exceed the dose.

Feed the bushes for the last time during budding. This time apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This stimulates intensive flowering of chrysanthemums.

Apply all fertilizers exclusively in liquid form. Water the plants with them strictly at the roots the day after rain or watering.

Wintering

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are heat-loving plants. And they will not survive the winter in the open ground, even under good shelter. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, dig up the mother bushes, cut off all the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, place them in a wooden box along with a lump of earth. Store flowers in the cellar at a temperature of 0...+4 °C and 80% humidity.

Water the soil occasionally to keep it slightly moist. Inspect the bushes regularly, and if you notice signs of mold, immediately cut out the damaged branches, otherwise the entire flower will die.

At the end of February or beginning of March, move the bushes to a warmer and brighter room. Provide them with regular watering. And when they “come to life” and begin to grow, flower cuttings can be carried out.

If you do not want to propagate crops, then simply plant the mother bush in its usual place as soon as the weather is warm. But keep in mind that every three years you need to change the area for the flower garden. Otherwise, the plants will begin to act up and get sick, which will have a negative impact on their decorative properties.

Reproduction by cuttings

Start this method of growing flowers in late spring - early summer, when the outside temperature reaches +21...+26 °C. Using a sharp, disinfected knife, cut the cuttings of the large-flowered chrysanthemum. In this case, choose shoots that grow directly from the root of the plant. Make the cut 2-3 mm above the leaf with the bud. The length of the cutting should reach 6-7 cm. How to root branches:

1. Fill the container with nutrient soil and cover it with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
2. Treat the lower cut with a growth stimulator and insert the cutting at an angle of 35-45° into the substrate. At the same time, make sure that the plant is in the sand and does not touch the soil.
3. Place the container on a bright windowsill.

Maintain the temperature near planting within +15…+18 °C. Do not forget to regularly moisten the substrate, preventing it from drying out. After 2-3 weeks, when the cuttings take root, transplant them into open ground and then provide the plants with regular care.

Diseases

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are endowed with strong immunity. But if you don’t care for them correctly, the plants can get sick:

• Powdery mildew. The disease affects buds, leaves, and shoots. Appears as a white coating.
• Verticillium wilt. The disease affects the root system. As a result, the stems of the crop die, and the leaves turn yellow and wither.
• Rust. It is manifested by the appearance of gray spots, which turn brown as the disease progresses. Affects all above-ground parts of the plant.
• Gray rot. The disease is recognized by blurry brown spots, which over time become covered with a gray fluffy coating. Subsequently, the plant rots and dies.

If you find signs of any disease, begin treatment immediately. Bordeaux mixture will help get rid of gray rot and rust. To cure rust, use colloidal sulfur or copper-soap emulsion.

Pests

Slugs and snails are no less dangerous for flowers. They eat leaves, stems and buds of plants. To prevent their appearance, scatter crushed eggshells near the bushes. If snails and slugs have already appeared, you will have to remove them by hand.

Attractive large-flowered chrysanthemums will decorate a flower bed and fit into any landscape. Of course, to grow these crops in your garden plot, you will need to pay some attention to the flowers. But your efforts will not be in vain, and the result will exceed all expectations.

This plant is in demand among gardeners as a late greenhouse plant. In addition, potted varieties of grandiflora chrysanthemum have become very popular.

The view itself Chrysanthemum grandiflora"(Chrysanthemum morifolium) is not found in the wild form, but is described from varieties grown in the gardens of ancient China and Japan. That is, all those varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums that can now be bought are completely artificial plants bred as a result of many years and even centuries of selection.

Description of the species - biology

Chrysanthemums are perennials with an average degree of branching of the root system. It has erect stems reaching a height of up to 120 centimeters. The inflorescence of a chrysanthemum is a basket consisting of tubular or reed flowers of which there can be even up to a thousand pieces in an inflorescence.

How to grow chrysanthemum?

The first condition for the correct cultivation of large-flowered chrysanthemums is, of course, the selection of the so-called “mother plant”.

It is done in the fall, right during flowering, which will make it easier for you to choose the most beautiful and strong flowers that best fit the description of the variety.

After the chrysanthemums have bloomed, cut off the inflorescences and bury the queen cells in a greenhouse or greenhouse before cuttings. You cannot store queen cells in dark places - the yield of cuttings will be much less because when stored in the dark, the queen cells are depleted very quickly.

Cuttings are carried out in March-April, when there are more sunny days. Cuttings root faster at an average temperature of +15 degrees.

Timing affects both the height and vigor of the plant.

This is how strong plants with a large number of flowering shoots grow from early cuttings.

At a later date, the flowers are 2-3 times lower, with one or two peduncles.

Planting chrysanthemums in the ground

Good loamy or sandy loam soil is suitable for proper and complete cultivation of chrysanthemums. The site must be protected from strong winds. Plants are planted with a feeding area of ​​60×60 cm or 70×70 cm in open ground. In greenhouses, an area of ​​25×25 cm or 30×30 cm is sufficient; in this case, the required yield per 1 m2 is achieved by increasing the planting density.

After planting, the plants are watered abundantly, the ground is constantly loosened and cleared of all weeds. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are usually tied to pegs or trellises, and the garter is repeated, and it should be continued as the chrysanthemums grow.

As the plants grow, the garter is repeated.

Feeding chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are fed with mineral fertilizers throughout the growing season.

Fertilizers must be applied according to growth phases. With a lack of phosphorus, flowers suffer from powdery mildew. It is better to apply phosphorus to the beds in autumn or winter, already in the snow.

Two weeks after planting, chrysanthemums need nitrogen for growth and development, and starting in July, add phosphorus and potassium to nitrogen fertilizers.

The maximum amount of potassium is needed during the development of buds. Phosphorus is needed during the formation of flower shoots.

During the growing season, as a rule, 4 or 5 fertilizer applications are carried out.

On average, per square meter of plantings, 12-15 grams of nitrogen fertilizers, 17-20 grams of phosphorus fertilizers and 12-15 grams of potassium fertilizers are applied, both in soluble and dry form.

Photo 1: Large-flowered chrysanthemum variety “Suzanna”

Pinching chrysanthemums - how to do it correctly?

Growing large-flowered chrysanthemums largely depends on the correct formation of their bush. Shaping means pinching, removing stepsons, and choosing a bud.

Pinching is nothing more than removing the growing point of the stem.

Pinch the top of the stem so that 3-5 pairs of leaves remain below. You can do this procedure once or twice, it all depends on the type of chrysanthemum and which bud you want to leave - the first or second.

The best time for the first pinching of chrysanthemums is the end of May or the beginning of June, when the chrysanthemums grow to 15-20 centimeters.

The second pinching of chrysanthemums is done 15-20 days after the first, depending on the variety.

The third pinching of chrysanthemums is done as necessary 70-75 days before they bloom, but as a rule, for most varieties there is no need for it.

Seedling of chrysanthemums

After pinching, chrysanthemums grow rapidly.

Side shoots develop evenly along the entire stem, forming a slender, compact bush. The uniform growth of lateral shoots of chrysanthemums continues throughout the entire growth period, while the main peduncles grow stepchildren from the axils of each leaf.

The stepsons themselves need to be removed as soon as they can be grabbed with your fingers and plucked out. Stepchild shoots take a lot of nutrients, which delays the normal development of the stem with the main bud.

Chrysanthemum planting is done starting in July. At the top of the main stem of the chrysanthemum, several stepsons are left as a reserve in case the main bud of the plant is damaged.

Photo 2: Large-flowered chrysanthemum variety “Golden Rain”

Choosing a chrysanthemum bud

The most crucial moment when growing chrysanthemums is the choice of bud. Chrysanthemum plants develop 3 types of flower buds at different times during the growing season.

Chrysanthemum buds of different periods have different names: spring, first and second (crown and terminal - i.e. final or last).

The zero bud grows, completing the apical growth of the main shoot.

At the ends of the emerging lateral stems and shoots, crown buds are laid successively - 1st, 2nd and then terminal. From the very first crown buds, larger and double inflorescences develop, and the 2nd or 3rd buds produce brighter inflorescences.

Among the wide variety of varieties, it is impossible to determine which bud is better. In early varieties of chrysanthemums, all 3 types of age buds are beautiful: spring, 1st and 2nd crown ones.

Middle and late middle varieties of chrysanthemums produce good flowers from the first and second crown buds. For late varieties, second crown buds are better suited. The choice of the main bud depends on the biological properties of the variety and natural and climatic conditions.

How to properly cut chrysanthemums

Three to four weeks before you start cutting chrysanthemums, they must be removed from their winter storage place and placed in a room or greenhouse for germination.

After the root shoots reach a height of 7-10 centimeters, you can begin cutting chrysanthemums.

Usually, chrysanthemum cuttings are rooted in greenhouses, preparing a mixture of 2 portions of turf soil and 1 part of leafy soil (on the bottom), with a five-centimeter layer of sand poured on top.

The sand should be lightly compacted and moistened with light watering.

Cut the cuttings with a well-sharpened knife. The location of the cut for rooting chrysanthemums does not matter - it can be done with equal success both under a node and in internodes.

The length of chrysanthemum cuttings should be equal - in winter 7 centimeters, in spring from 3.5 to 5 centimeters.

After cutting the cutting, remove the lower leaves on it (general requirement) and shorten the upper ones by 30%. Having done this, make a hole in the soil (you can use a peg or pencil as in photo 1) and plant the cutting ( photo 3) and press well.

For better rooting, cuttings can be treated with any growth stimulant ( photo 2) - well suited for large-flowered chrysanthemums Heteroauxin or Kornevin.

Typically, the average feeding area for chrysanthemum cuttings ranges from 16 cm2 to 25 cm2 and depends directly on the size of the leaves ( photo 4).

After planting, chrysanthemums are watered and shaded using spunbond or paper.

Typically, cuttings take root completely in 2-3 weeks. It is recommended to plant cuttings in open ground after the last spring frosts, i.e. in mid-May - early June, depending on climatic conditions.

Propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings photo

Attention - chrysanthemum cuttings need hardening before planting!

3 pcs/set kitchen cooking utensils pizza knife...

From mid-summer until the very frost, many household plots, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright garden chrysanthemum bushes. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the “queen of autumn” by reading our article. Photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the right type of flower for your garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the type and can be from 15 to 150 cm. Currently, a large number of chrysanthemum varieties are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

Size of inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups based on the diameter of their flowers:

• small-flowered;
• medium-flowered;
• grandiflora.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple or double. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm. The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant have the shape of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to soil composition and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until frost.

Medium-flowered or decorative chrysanthemums can be grown not only to decorate the garden, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental bushes grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums They are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom with large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only certain varieties of it can winter in open ground. These flowers are mainly intended for cutting into bouquets.

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports in the form of frames, metal mesh or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during planting of bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. “Amber Lady” - the plant is distinguished by inflorescences of a golden hue.
2. “Umka” - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Rosetta's Daughter" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers in pink and white shades.

Medium height. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both in a flower bed and along paths, fences, and gazebos. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. “Zorka” - the plant is distinguished by its yellow-brown color, which just suits the autumn mood.
2. “Dune” is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
3. “Lily” will help add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Borders. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Border chrysanthemum bushes have the shape of a ball, strewn with small flowers. The most popular varieties in this group are:

1. "Varvara" is a plant with delicate lilac-lilac flowers.
2. “Evening Lights” - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble festive fireworks.
3. “Talisman” is strewn with bright beetroot-raspberry flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different types of flower shapes:

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

Landing Features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Chrysanthemums will not bloom even in partial shade.

The soil should be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added per square meter of soil. There is no need to add more organic matter, otherwise only the leaves will grow vigorously on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

Rules of care

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level. You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will drop all its buds.

The volume of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small, hard leaves can be watered less often than bushes with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this purpose, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic ones in the form of humates are used. During active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums includes the formation of a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim. For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After some time, when the side shoots grow to 10 cm, their crown is also pinched. After this, the bush grows until flowering.

During the period when the chrysanthemum is blooming, faded and faded buds must be regularly removed from its bush. This way you can extend the flowering period.

If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can do a total pruning of the side shoots. As a result, only one stem and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the plant’s forces will go towards the formation and growth of the flower.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums in winter

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom just as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter. Therefore, after flowering ends, the stems of the bushes are cut back to the ground. The plant hills up and is covered with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug up along with a lump of earth and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored until planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them involves rare watering of the earthen clod, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as early as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is:

1. Spider mites are pests that suck sap from plants. It can be detected by cobweb formations on the back of the leaf. If the leaves of a chrysanthemum become gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then most likely a mite has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and trim the damaged areas.
3. Verticillium is an infectious disease that penetrates through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. Spraying with biological products will help in the initial stages.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white coating appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can be propagate in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• cuttings.

Dividing the bush

Bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. To make chrysanthemums bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. The cuttings are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed propagation

In open ground sowing takes place in May. For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between them should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. Chrysanthemums should bloom for the first time at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A cutting with 3-4 leaves is cut under the leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the cutting is planted.
3. The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The temperature for rooting should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots. Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

By following the rules for planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve beautiful and spectacular flowering during half the summer and almost the entire fall. Any area of ​​the garden where the “Queen of Autumn” will grow will become a luxurious garden decoration.

Bush chrysanthemum