In order for the garden and vegetable garden to produce a good harvest, regular and timely watering is important. Especially in the summer. Of course, you can saturate the soil with moisture using a special watering hose, but today there is a more modern option - drip irrigation. What this system is, the principle of its operation, how much it costs and how to do drip irrigation correctly, you can find out by reading the article.

A drip system is designed for irrigation of plants that are planted using the row method. Ground or underground drip irrigation is used to care for crops, grapes, flowers and trees. This is also an ideal option for watering greenhouses. But drip irrigation is not suitable for moistening lawns. Because it is impossible to water a large area using pipes. In this case, sprinklers are used.

But for a small garden, berry garden, vegetable garden, the drip system is an excellent way. Many summer residents install from droppers, considering this the most economical and rational method of caring for plants.

Pros of the system

Drip irrigation prevents the root system from experiencing nutrient deficiency and drying out, and prevents the formation of a hard crust on the soil surface and the erosion of the fertile layer. Drip irrigation was first used in Israel. The effectiveness of the method is obvious. After all, today Israel is a leading exporter of agricultural products. A summer resident receives a lot of benefits from using a drip system.

The drip irrigation device gives the following results:

1. Plant fertility increases by approximately 40%.
2. Labor costs are significantly reduced. There is no need to carry heavy buckets or drag a hose. All you have to do is open the tap.
3. There are much fewer weeds growing. Because they lack moisture. This reduces the number of weedings.
4. Eliminates the possibility of soil erosion.
5. The likelihood of fungal diseases occurring is reduced.
6. Leaf burns are excluded. After all, drip tubes supply water specifically to the roots of plants.
7. Water savings are approximately 70%. Moisture does not spread throughout the entire area, but only enters the root zone of the plants.
8. The system operates at low pressure.
9. The presence of a gardener and total control of watering are not required. An automated system will supply water at the right time.

Design and principle of operation

The operating principle of drip irrigation is as follows: water is supplied directly to the root system of plants. Depending on the equipment used, moisture can be supplied to the soil surface or deep into the fertile layer. In the first case, the system is equipped with a drip tape or hose, in the second - with a dropper.

Based on the type of water supply, there are gravitational and forced systems. In the first option, the flow of water occurs due to an inclined container of water and the action of gravity. In the second option, drip irrigation is carried out from a water supply or a pump connected to a well. In this case, the system must be equipped with a gearbox. From the water supply network or tank, water moves through main pipes that have branches and is supplied to the desired irrigation location.

Drip irrigation is divided according to functionality into:

• manual;
• auto;
• semi-automatic.

The summer resident needs to turn the manual system on and off independently. The water container is also filled manually using a hose or buckets. Automatic devices operate completely under the control of the system. The semi-automatic device starts and turns off watering independently. But the gardener needs to replenish the water tank on his own. The semi-automatic machine can be programmed and the intensity and time of watering can be set. In terms of cost, automatic models are the most expensive.

System elements

Installation of drip irrigation does not present any great difficulties. This work does not require any special knowledge or skills.

But before installation, you should decide what you need to buy for drip irrigation, and which manufacturer to give preference to.

In fact, the range for drip irrigation is very wide and is represented by various parts from different manufacturers. When choosing, you should not chase the low price. Because the quality of cheap products cannot be high. It is better to adhere to the optimal ratio of cost and quality. It should also be noted that today well-equipped drip irrigation kits are available for sale. This saves the summer resident from the need to select individual parts. Below are the materials needed to set up a drip irrigation system.

Dropper: its types and functions

There can be two types: drip tapes and single devices. Drip tape is a hose with a large number of holes. There are special systems inside that regulate the water output. Depending on the principle of operation, there are three types: labyrinth, slot, emitter. Each of the varieties has its positive and negative sides. Most summer residents prefer emitter tapes. Because they are more technologically advanced and durable.

But before you buy an emitter tape for drip irrigation, you need to remember that it is most convenient to lay the tapes on beds with vegetable crops. But single devices or drippers are more suitable for watering free-standing perennial crops, shrubs, and trees. These units are also divided into two types: without pressure compensation and with compensation. Drippers can be used, for example, for watering currant bushes. In addition to watering, you can read in detail about high-quality and timely care of currants.

The main difference between a drip tube and a tape is the wall thickness and longer service life. The tube can serve properly for 3 years or more. Also, the tube, unlike the tape, can be buried in the ground. This does not change its functionality. Therefore, many people decide to buy a drip tube for irrigation, because it has excellent performance characteristics.

Many novice summer residents are wondering where to get drippers for drip irrigation and how much they cost. You can purchase these system elements at any specialized store or order them on the Internet.

To extend the life of the tube, it is advisable to install a filter. Otherwise, the dropper may quickly become clogged and stop performing its task. The cost of the dropper is low. But if you purchase a drip irrigation tube in bulk, many companies make a discount and in the end the product comes out even cheaper.

Tee - an important detail

Without this part, productive operation of the system is impossible. Using a tee, you can organize watering in several areas simultaneously. Therefore, a tee for drip irrigation is an important element and it is advisable to install it immediately.

Soft watering hose or ready-made hose

If you use a soft watering hose on one side, it will need to be plugged. The cost of this part is low. You can buy a drip irrigation hose at any specialty store.

Controller: types and applications

It is the main part of any automatic irrigation system. It determines the operating time of the valve and ensures regular watering. It looks like a small box with a display and several switches. The controller receives information from wind, humidity, and temperature sensors. Most models work from the network. True, there are also devices with a battery. They are more convenient to use.

If you buy an automatic controller for drip irrigation, the efficiency of the entire system will increase significantly. Semiconductor and hybrid controllers are available for sale. Semiconductor devices are installed indoors. Used to control irrigation in small areas. Most often for irrigating lawns and lawns near houses.

Hybrid models are more reliable and modern. Allows you to save energy and water. Equipped with a microprocessor that controls the valves one by one. Such units are mainly used to organize watering of large areas and greenhouses.

Drip irrigation injector

This element allows you to increase productivity, reduces the labor intensity of irrigation, eliminates contamination of groundwater and soil, and allows water to instantly reach the roots of crops along with mineral fertilizers. But you need to know how to choose the right injector for drip irrigation, since it costs a lot. You should choose a device based on your specific situation, after consulting with a specialist.

Other system elements

Also, to install a drip irrigation system you will need a pump, fitting, taps, adapters and plugs. Most often, difficulties when choosing parts for organizing drip irrigation arise with hoses. Because they can be of different types. And many summer residents do not know which supply hoses for drip irrigation are best to use.

When choosing, you should be guided by where the system will be located: on the surface or under the ground. On sale you can find a oozing hose. It is used for laying underground. Made of PVC, has a microporous structure. Performs the function of moistening the soil around the crop. Ideal for caring for tomatoes, which do not like moisture getting on their leaves.

The sprinkler is used for watering flower beds, beds, and lawns. The maximum hose length is 22 m. But if necessary, the length can be increased. The unit is equipped with fittings for more efficient irrigation. Tape hose is the most expensive. Its advantage is that it can be used in conjunction with electrical engineering.

Knowing how to install drip irrigation, you can organize an effective irrigation system for crops.

Installation is simple. First, the pipework is laid. After this, install the filter and pump. Then the controller and, if necessary, a unit for applying fertilizers are installed. Next, drip tapes are laid out under the trees and in the beds. The tapes are connected to the main pipes.

Cost and popular models

Many novice gardeners and summer residents are interested in how much drip irrigation costs and which models are more popular. As for the cost of equipment, it depends on the type of system chosen, as well as on the model, quality and manufacturer. For example, the semi-automatic drip irrigation system Aquadusya will cost a summer resident about 1,700 rubles, and the automatic model will cost 2,100 rubles.

In addition to Aquadus, models such as Rodnichok and Zhuk are also widely used. Semi-automatic devices are most often chosen. They are cheaper and, moreover, the automatic float for filling the water tank can be purchased and installed separately. Installing a control system yourself allows you to save some money. Some craftsmen are trying to organize underground drip irrigation with their own hands, and they are doing quite well.

Thus, drip irrigation is currently the most modern and effective method of irrigating plants. It allows you to increase productivity and save water. The drip irrigation device is quite simple. This allows you to easily install the system yourself.

The first drip irrigation systems appeared at the time of the general craze for orchids at the end of the 18th – beginning of the 19th centuries, for potted indoor plants. In the middle of the last century, drip irrigation along with revolutionized agriculture. Until then, the immediate future in a world where there was less than half a hectare of arable land left per person looked very bleak. By now, the technology of drip irrigation in open ground has developed to the point of being widely used in private farms, and there are more and more people who want to arrange drip irrigation with their own hands. The main reasons are the fairly high cost of installation of turnkey drip irrigation and the ever-increasing shortage of water suitable for agricultural needs.

The main advantages of drip irrigation, as is known, come down to the following:

We emphasize that these are only the main advantages. Drip irrigation at the dacha can also be beneficial for your own consumption by reducing the need for winter purchases of plant products. However, firstly, the cost of a drip irrigation system is still quite high. Only the cheapest drip tape for open ground (see below) will need the amount approx. from 600 rub. per hundred. For a plot of 20 acres, equipment for water treatment and water supply to belts will cost at least another 5,000 rubles. Total - under 20,000 rubles. for a medium-sized “for yourself” farm.

Secondly, do not believe claims that drip irrigation reduces the labor intensity of private crop production. Caring for a drip irrigation system in small areas will take only a little less time and effort than walking around with a hose. Thirdly, caring for plants using drip irrigation differs significantly from that in traditional agriculture. Therefore, further material is built as follows. way: first we will look at how to make drip irrigation in a small area from scrap materials with minimal or no cost. And having mastered all the intricacies of maintaining garden crops “on drips” and having already accurately assessed, in money terms, its benefits in these specific conditions, it will be possible to think about “real” drip irrigation; we will also talk about it.

Cucumbers – a drop at a time

The best way to learn how to maintain open ground plants under drip irrigation is with cucumbers. Their greenhouse and greenhouse varieties are still inferior in taste and other consumer qualities to garden cucumbers; especially gherkins. But, as you know, ground cucumbers can turn brown due to a sharp change in external conditions. Drip irrigation not only gives the plants optimum moisture, but also creates a more or less stable microclimate around the bushes, so it is best to do your first drip irrigation for cucumbers. Having learned how to get delicious, aromatic, crispy cucumbers “on the drop”, no matter what kind of summer it is, you can “plant on the drop” any other well-known crops.

The most important

Drip irrigation systems come in different types, see below. But even the simplest homemade drip irrigation must satisfy the main condition for all of them: supply water to the plants, and not between the rows, see fig. Otherwise, the plants will get worse, not better; to weeds and pests – on the contrary. In addition, the need for loosening, which injures surface roots, will not decrease, but, on the contrary, will increase. In addition, the wetted soil gets very hot in direct sunlight, so the rows will have to be covered with mulch, and underneath it the unwanted “cultivars” will be a real paradise. In general, one must not hope that the water in the soil will disperse. It needs to go where it needs to go right away; this is the essence of drip irrigation.

About holes

In the first experiments with homemade drip irrigation and then you will need to learn how to make dies in plastic - calibrated and profiled narrow holes for the flow of water. Due to viscous friction in the liquid, they will ensure a fairly stable flow of moisture from one dropper when the pressure fluctuates over a fairly wide range and good resistance of the system to clogging with soil particles.

To form the dies, you will need an electric soldering iron (preferably a soldering pencil with a bronze nickel-plated tip) and a piece of stainless steel bicycle spoke. It is sharpened like an awl and polished (required). The “piercing” tip is attracted to the soldering iron tip with a steel clamp with a screw clamp. Turn on the soldering iron and, when it heats up, tighten the screw tightly, because otherwise, due to thermal expansion, the tip will wobble.

Next you need a piece of transparent garden hose and a plastic bottle. The hose is attached to a hole in its bottom, its free end is bent and pulled together or plugged. The bottle is placed at a height of approx. 1-1.5 m. Then a series of holes are made in the hose with the tip, each time deeper and deeper into the plastic. You need to control how much the tip comes out into the lumen of the hose! How much he got inside each time, we write it down, remember it, and record it in some other way. If, when pulled out, it immediately gets stuck and pulls the plastic, it is poorly polished.

Note: For greater stability of the resulting diameter and profile of the dies, it is advisable to select the temperature of the soldering iron tip using a household thyristor electric power regulator.

To complete the home OCD, we strengthen the perforated section of the hose horizontally with the dies down, and place a beaker under each die; an alternative is an indispensable Russian vessel, a cut glass. We fill the bottle with water and note the time during which 100-200 ml drips from the spinnerets into each measuring container. That's it, now you can make dies for a given hourly water flow, you only need to take into account the wall thickness of the working hose.

We start to drip

Let's start with point drip irrigation systems from dosing containers without water supply networks, as the simplest and cheapest. On large areas they are unacceptably labor-intensive, but on a plot of up to 2-4 acres this has little effect. And don’t think that you’ll have to resort to something high-tech: spot irrigation of small areas of open ground at home is nothing more than drip irrigation from plastic bottles. It can be produced in 3 ways: micro-sprinkling, surface and deep, see fig. Dispensers can also be canisters and pipes. But the former are not wasteful and expensive material, and the capacity of the latter, at optimal depth, is insufficient for the watering rate of most plants.

Micro-sprinkling prevents clogging of the dispenser nozzles with soil, but requires stands for suspension, makes it difficult to fill dangling dispensers and does not allow water to be supplied exactly to the roots. Surface watering requires refining the bottles, which, given the required quantity of tens and possibly hundreds, is very labor-intensive. In deep spot watering from bottles, radical changes have recently occurred that have made it highly effective, see below.

The simplest surface drip irrigation can be organized using plastic containers or 1.5 liter bottles installed in rows between bushes, see fig. The dies in them are made at a height of 3-5 cm from the bottom so that sediment in the water does not clog them. Such irrigation is suitable for moisture- and light-loving crops with fruits located quite high above the ground, for example. tomatoes, eggplants. A serious drawback of this “system” is that mulching of the rows is required; why - see above.

Much better results are obtained by deep watering from inverted and cut bottles, left and center on the trail. rice. Mulch is no longer needed, filling dispensers is more convenient, and evaporation from them creates some kind of microclimate for the plants. However, a small, real revolution in bottle-drip irrigation was made by the appearance on sale of nozzles in threads for bottle necks with ready-made dies, on the right in Fig. They were first invented by indoor gardeners; tips of pastry syringes were used. In addition to other advantages of deep watering, you can stick dispensers into the ground obliquely, delivering water directly to the roots.

Other options

In addition to bottles, they sometimes try to use medical droppers for targeted individual drip irrigation, see next. rice. However, the consistently positive long-term results of such experiments are unknown. reasons due to the fact that medical droppers are disposable equipment:

• The thinnest filter gets clogged very quickly.
• Remove the filter - the needle becomes clogged with soil a little slower.
• The flow regulator clips quickly burst, the wheel pins come out of the grooves and the adjustment stops altogether.
• Hoses also quickly become cloudy, become slimy inside, and swell; the lumen of the hose is reduced, and then the tubes generally creep apart.

In addition, honey an IV costs money, and not very little. And if the medical staff, contrary to the strictest prohibition, does not destroy them after use (droppers for medicines cannot be disinfected), then who knows what patients were given them. And wouldn’t any of them share their ailments with you through a dropper...

On fairly large areas, up to 6 acres or more, surface drip irrigation from relatively available materials can be arranged, as shown in the figure:

Irrigation lines (irrigation tapes) are made from a PVC garden hose with a caliber (clearance diameter) of 3-8 mm, it is relatively inexpensive. The dies in them are made as described above. The holes in the bottoms of the buckets are drilled along the outer diameter of the thread on the neck; Such a spout is tightened with a standard plug; perhaps with a thin rubber seal. The holes in the plugs for the hoses are 1-1.5 mm smaller than their outer diameter, then seals will not be needed here. For a weekend home, this is perhaps the optimal solution: the entire system can be easily deployed, and before leaving it can be rolled up and hidden.

Note: a similar type of system, but much less expensive in all respects, can be built for growing seedlings at home, see video below.

Video: drip irrigation for seedlings at home

Throughout the area

We have already come close to drip irrigation of fairly large areas from pressure water supply sources with water supplied through pipelines. A water-tube drip irrigation system is built according to a complete and simplified scheme, depending on the value of the initial pressure: with a normal pressure of 0.7-3 bar or a low-pressure of 0.1-0.3 bar. A pressure of 1 bar corresponds to a lift of the pressure tank of 10 m, i.e. in low-pressure systems, raising the pressure tank 1-3 m above ground level is sufficient. This greatly simplifies the installation of both the system itself and the pressure tank; the costs for them are correspondingly reduced. But it is difficult to ensure high-quality watering of beds longer than 10 m in a low-pressure system, and technically impossible for beds longer than 20 m.

Note: We do not consider high-pressure irrigation systems, for example, mist irrigation, because making them with your own hands is unrealistic, and the cost of construction is very high.

The design of both drip irrigation systems is shown in Fig. top left and top right respectively.

In both cases, a squeegee (bottom center) is connected to the water supply source (water supply, general pressure tank, submersible pump in a well or borehole) - a device for preparing irrigation water, monitoring and regulating its flow. The squeegee, in addition to the shut-off valve, must be equipped with a special filter, because additionally unfiltered water will immediately damage the entire system. The main pipeline(s) with an optionally installed fertilizer solution injector are connected to the runoff, and distribution pipelines (drip pipes, irrigation tapes or just tapes) laid on the beds are connected to the main line. The tapes are equipped with droppers that carry out the actual watering.

Note: the design of individual elements and methods of installation of low- and normal-pressure drip irrigation systems differ markedly, see below. The reason is the varying degree of influence of viscous friction of water in pipes; in low-pressure systems it is relatively higher.

About pipes

Main pipes and, most often, tapes are made of low-density polyethylene (HDPE) and are sold as HDPE pipes or simply HDPE. “Low pressure” in this case characterizes the production technology of this plastic: at low pressure with the participation of a catalyst. HDPE pipes are inexpensive and very resistant, with a service life of over 40 years. However, when heated to more than 60 degrees, catalyst residues (cadmium) can be released, which is why food-grade and household polyethylene is more expensive and high-pressure.

Drip irrigation systems are assembled from HDPE pipes for laying in the ground, black with a longitudinal blue stripe. Pipes for internal distribution (green) in a temperate climate can withstand 5-6-10 seasons. PVC-reinforced irrigation hoses are not suitable for the construction of stationary irrigation systems, because... do not withstand constant exposure to the external environment for more than 1-3 years. The caliber of main pipes is taken within the range of 12-40 mm for areas of 6-40 acres with an aspect ratio of 1:1 to 1:3. The caliber of the tapes is 16-75 mm for their length limits of 10-100 m.

Low pressure

Low-pressure systems are suitable for summer cottages or personal plots of 6-20 acres. It is possible to make low-pressure drip irrigation from HDPE pipes with a wall thickness of 0.5-1 mm on simple fittings with a tension connection, bottom right in Fig. When designing them on slopes, it is necessary to route the highways horizontally, and run the tapes from them along the slope. This will to some extent compensate for pressure losses in the belts. Often in this way it is possible to obtain a uniform flow rate from cheaper and more reliable uncompensated drippers, see below.

Normal pressure

Installation of normal pressure drip irrigation systems is made from HDPE pipes with a wall thickness of 2-4 mm. When they are powered from a common pressure tank in the attic of a one-story house, a booster pump can be embedded into the main line. Normal pressure pipelines are assembled on fittings with pressure, bottom left in Fig. The tapes are removed from the main line using start connectors, which perform the functions of tees-branches and pressure reducers. Through start connectors with taps, tapes or areas are connected, the pressure in which should be significantly lower than the normal pressure; in this case, a greenhouse, a short single bed and a garden.

How to install drip irrigation yourself using ready-made components, see the video tutorial. And we will further deal with some essential details, following the flow of water.

Video: how to assemble a drip irrigation system with your own hands

Tank

The supply tank of the irrigation system must be opaque or protected from light to avoid the development of unicellular algae in it (water blooms), which instantly clog both the filter and the droppers. In addition, the water in the tank should not heat up in the heat: watering with overheated water is detrimental to plants. For these purposes, the tank in the open air is covered with a galvanized screen or wrapped with metallized thermal insulation, for example. folgoizol.

The lid of the tank must be tight with air drainage to prevent dust and spores of microorganisms from entering it. The source for connecting the drainage is made at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom, and the sediment is periodically pumped out or drained. As for the volume of the tank, it is calculated based on the plants’ water needs, the expected average monthly rainfall in the area and the frequency of filling. In general, in Central Russia, a cubic tank is enough for 6-12 acres for a week.

Controller and kick drum

An irrigation controller is considered an unaffordable luxury. This is true for devices from approx. for $2000 for greenhouse farms with a productive area of ​​hectares. But there are also household irrigation controllers on sale for less than $50-30. They allow you to set the time and duration of watering. Slightly more expensive models are equipped with a soil moisture sensor and skip watering if there is already enough moisture in the soil. It is also possible to equip it with a precipitation sensor, which allows watering to occur when it rains. With such a controller, it is quite possible to build a maintenance-free greenhouse “from weekend to weekend” 3x6 m with a storage tank from a 200 liter barrel. However, we will return to drip irrigation of greenhouses more than once.

Filter

A drip irrigation filter is generally designed in the same way as a tap filter, but should provide finer filtration without clogging too often. The most commonly used irrigation water filters are trace. types:

1. Mesh ones are the simplest and cheapest, but they get clogged quickly. The cartridges in them have to be changed at least once a week, or even after each watering, depending on the initial water quality. If the water hardness exceeds 16 German degrees (the maximum permissible according to sanitary standards is 29 degrees), they completely fail instantly.
2. Disc ones are somewhat more expensive, but the cartridge needs to be changed 2-3 times a season, or even not every season. Most commonly used.
3. Turbine (centrifuge filters) are the most expensive, but they purify water even from a puddle. No consumables are required; cleaning involves unscrewing the drain plug and draining the sediment.

Fertilizer injectors

There is no opportunity to touch on the subtleties of agrochemistry, but in this case they come down to one thing: It is incorrect to pour liquid fertilizer into the tank. Plants intended for food should be fed in portions during watering. That's why a fertilizer injector is needed; no - bring them into the beds by hand.

Firstly, water must be supplied to the injector in 2 parallel branches, each designed for full flow. In addition to inlet valves, they also need valves in front of the injector, allowing the branch to be cut off from 2 sides. If there is no boost pump in the system, then it is better to install 2 leads, then a tee, and an injector immediately after it.

Why such difficulties? First, suddenly the single squeegee becomes completely clogged, and a concentrated solution of fertilizers flows to the plants, causing them to “burn.” And with partial blockage and a drop in flow, nitrates will be deposited in fruits, bulbs and roots. Therefore, the branches of the paired flow are periodically cut off, and in the branch that is undergoing maintenance, the filter and the pipe lumen are checked and, if necessary, cleaned.

Second, The fertilizer injection scheme for drip irrigation depends on the type of system and the method of feeding it, see figure:

In low-pressure systems, simple injectors with a mini tap are used, pos. 1. When powered from a water supply system that provides a stable “household” pressure of 1.65 bar (1.85, 2.05 bar, etc. in countries and regions with varying degrees of water supply), use the diagram in pos. 2. In systems with a booster pump - circuit with overflow, pos. 3, otherwise pressure surges at the pump outlet will “throw” water into the fertilizer tank. When powered from an autonomous water supply system with unstable pressure - a circuit with a low-power solution pump, pos. 4. It is turned on either from the irrigation controller, or manually according to pressure gauge readings.

Note: in the latter case, and in general if the pressure in the water supply is unstable, if the irrigated area is not very large, it is better to turn all drip irrigation into low-pressure using a regular toilet flush tank, see fig. The standard drain is plugged, and the squeegee is connected at the level of the waterline of the float raised until the water supply stops. The pressure in the irrigation system will then be very stable.

Tapes and droppers

These are the key elements of the system, so, as they used to say, they should be given the utmost attention. Micro-perforated irrigation tapes, or oozing hoses, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. The dies are pierced with a laser. Due to the absence of pressure losses on the fittings, the length of oozing hoses in low-pressure drip irrigation can exceed 50 m. However, due to excessive evaporation from a large total surface of artificial dew and sensitivity to dust, they are of little use for open ground, but for drip irrigation of a greenhouse, a oozing hose is almost perfect option.

Note: sometimes oozing hoses are called integrated drippers, but the latter can be of a completely different type, see below.

In labyrinth drippers, part of the water flowing through the pipe enters a winding channel, and from there it drips out. Labyrinth droppers built with tape (item 2) are good because they are cheap (plus savings - no additional fittings are needed) and because they provide a relatively stable droplet flow rate over a fairly wide range of pressure fluctuations in the pipe. This is explained by the large influence of viscous friction in the labyrinth. In addition, holes in the tape for them can be punched even with an ordinary stationery hole punch (see below for more details). But salts are deposited quite quickly in the labyrinth, which disrupts the functioning of the system; Frequent tightening and pulling of the hose for cleaning is not only labor-intensive, but also soon leads to the need to change the entire tape.

Most often, external drippers are used for surface drip irrigation, pos. 3-8; on pos. 3-5 – integrated, or dropper-emitters. They are:

• With smooth flow control.
• With fixed flow rate (1-2-3-4 l/hour).
• Both of them – with compensation for pressure losses and uncompensated.

The basis of the loss compensator is a silicone membrane (item a in the figure on the right). It bends when the pressure increases and partially blocks the main flow through the dropper. Therefore, it is necessary to regulate it on a tape with compensated droppers at minimum pressure in the line, or starting from the far end of the tape. As for the design of the flow regulator, a flag type is more convenient, but flag droppers are more expensive than those with a dial regulator, approx. by 5%. When purchasing tens/hundreds of units, this is significant.

At pos. 6 – outlet dropper. Allows you to lay the tape between the rows, which makes it easier to care for both the plants and the irrigation system, but drip irrigation with outlets will be quite expensive: additional ones are needed. tees (many) tubes.

Pos. 7 – a dropper with the possibility of micro-sprinkling, which is necessary for strawberries. For such tapes at the sources, switchable chokes or start connectors with taps are needed: first they give full pressure, and when the bushes are wetted from above, they lower it to a drop under the roots.

Pos. 7 – dropper-dispenser for deep watering. These are applicable on unclogged, highly permeable soils; as a rule - artificial, for example. filling with expanded clay in greenhouses with container culture. For deep drip irrigation in ordinary soils, drippers with 2-4 outlets and tips immersed in the soil are used, see next. rice.

About the installation of droppers

“In the company style,” holes for droppers in the tapes are punched with a special hole puncher-insector, which allows you to cut through only one wall of a thin-walled pipe by weight. Install the emitter droppers using mounting pliers (on the left in the next figure) using rubber seals, in the center and on the right.

It is believed that otherwise it is impossible to ensure the tightness of many joints for a long time outside of production conditions. However, those who like to think and tinker often place emitters on tapes according to the following mini-instructions:

1. The pipe section is heated to approx. up to 50 degrees, but without allowing the plastic to soften, using a household hairdryer or scalding with boiling water;
2. Immediately, in a warm pipe, drill a hole with a diameter along the neck of the emitter pipe;
3. Immediately push the dropper pipe into the hole. As the pipe material cools, it contracts and tightly grips the pipe.

There is nothing prohibitive in this technology: hot tension fit is widely used in industrial production, incl. for particularly critical units. But remember: the guarantee of tightness of many connections made in this way is only your skill and accuracy.

Note: The standard spacing for installing dropper emitters is 30 or 50 cm.

Garden tapes

Garden drip irrigation tapes are laid by circling the bushes with a “snake”, figure eight, etc., and the trees – in circles, see the figure on the right. Therefore, they require thin-walled flexible tubes. In normal pressure systems, in this case, a start connector with a tap is required before the source into the tape, or, better, a throttle-reducer in front of the tap.

Drops in greenhouses

The use of drip irrigation for private farms in moderately humid climates is most economically profitable in a greenhouse. For example in Fig. Drawings of a drip irrigation system for a 6x3 m greenhouse and specifications for 2 options of components for it are given.

The costs of creating drip irrigation in a small greenhouse, given per unit of its productive area, are much lower than for open ground, and productivity is also much higher. Therefore, drip irrigation for greenhouses is quickly gaining popularity, and complete sets of their elements, including a controller, are available for sale for standard-sized greenhouses, on the left in the following. rice. The price of the kit is significantly lower than when purchasing components at retail. An additional plus is that conscientious sellers provide a guarantee on everything except the relatively inexpensive hose. Therefore, the system can first be tried on dry in a separate area, assembled, made a test run, and then, if everything is in order, installed on site.

For drip irrigation in a greenhouse, you need a controller with a soil moisture sensor, otherwise, due to the small evaporation to the outside, it is very difficult to avoid acidification of the soil and all sorts of misfortunes to the vegetation. But what if the greenhouse is not electrified? Make an autonomous power supply? And if it is not yet serviced regularly, automation of watering is inevitable. With my own hands, because Turnkey automatic watering systems are very expensive.

One solution to this problem is shown in Fig. The basis is a solar battery (SB) at (15-18) V (possibly homemade) with an area of ​​1-1.5 square meters. m and a 12V 65A/h car battery. The battery can be recharged simply through a 10A diode, because The short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the current contained in the battery. Buffer water tank – 200 l barrel.

It is better to use a 12V submersible pump. The 220V pump can be turned on via a household inverter 12VDC/220V 50Hz AC. To avoid draining the pump by the siphon effect, the barrel must be buried in the ground. For the same purpose, an electromagnetic shut-off valve is installed on the supply pipe in front of the flow meter/controller, electrically connected in parallel to the pump. That is, if the pump is 12V, then the valve needs a 12V valve, or both at 220V.

In this system, a reverse siphon effect is also possible, which will pull water and ground back, causing the drippers, pipes and filter to become clogged. The remedy against it is a check valve immediately behind the controller, if you look at the water flow.

Plants in the garden require moisture. It will be better if it is supplied to the roots constantly and in measured quantities. For this purpose there is a drip irrigation device. Difficulties with installing the system in the future eliminate heavy and ineffective physical labor. This can be judged by numerous reviews from gardeners. Many people are happy with this kind of liberation from hard manual labor. In addition to watering, there are many other things to do at the dacha. It is tempting to replace difficult and painstaking work with relaxation.

There are many types of devices and irrigation systems. They can be made or assembled with your own hands, or you can involve specialists.

Pros and cons of drip irrigation

Drip water supply has many advantages.

1. The flow of water directly under the stem, which allows fertilizer to be applied simultaneously with moisture.
2. Saving working time and physical effort for the summer resident. Having installed the system once, you can avoid manual watering throughout the season.
3. Eliminating the possibility of soil drying out. Its humidity is always sufficient for the necessary plant growth.
4. The system can be used for any plant because it is universal.
5. Possibility of choosing the optimal option for irrigating beds.

Among the disadvantages, we can note the costs of the component parts of the drip irrigation device: fittings, hoses, tapes, dosing water pump, filter, etc. The system must be constantly monitored, dirt must be periodically removed, water flow checked, valve operation, etc. The installation is volatile and requires constant availability of electricity.

Drip irrigation: structure and principle of operation

The drip irrigation system delivers moisture directly to the roots, which saves water and prevents damage to the above-ground parts of the plants. Water flows slowly at certain periods or continuously, which allows maintaining a given level of soil moisture, which has a beneficial effect on garden crops.

Making drip irrigation with your own hands: where to start?

First, the drip irrigation scheme is drawn on paper, where all watering points, the location of the water source and containers are indicated. The spacing between rows of plantings is measured. Based on the finished dimensions, you can easily calculate the number of communications.

If a pump is installed, its location can be anywhere, but when watering by gravity, the container is installed closer to the plants.

Drip hoses or tapes are laid on the beds. They have built-in special droppers for supplying water to the plants.

Before assembling a drip irrigation system, it is necessary to have all the components for irrigation. If you have experience, it is advisable to choose them yourself, since watering kits are more expensive.

1. A container of water - a barrel or tank.
2. The main distribution manifold for water supply, from which it is supplied to the branches.
3. Drip hose or tape.
4. Valves connecting drip tapes to the collector.

Drip hoses

Hoses are sold in coils. Their feature is the supply of the same amount of water throughout the entire bed, even if the terrain is uneven. The maximum irrigation length is selected so that the unevenness at the beginning and end of the hose does not exceed 10-15%. For one season, it is enough to use tapes with a wall thickness of 0.1 to 0.3 mm for drip irrigation of the garden. They are laid only on top.

Thick-walled (up to 0.8 mm) will last 3-4 seasons. They can also be used for underground installation. The diameter of the tapes is 12-22 mm (common size is 16 mm). Hard tubes last up to 10 seasons. Their diameter is 14-25 mm.

Through one dropper the water consumption is:

• hose - 0.6-8 l/h;
• thin-walled tape - 0.25-2.9 l/h;
• thick-walled tape - 2-8 l/h.

To regulate the flow, a tap for drip irrigation is connected to the hose or drip tape.

On average, you need to take 1 liter of water per day per plant, 5 liters per bush, 10 liters per tree. The data is indicative, but is suitable for determining the total consumption. To be more precise, when drip irrigation is performed, 1 tomato bush requires 1.5 liters, cucumbers - 2 liters, potatoes and cabbage - 2.5 liters. 20-25% of the reserve is added to the result obtained and the required tank volume is determined.

The distance between the drippers depends on the frequency of planting and can be from 10 to 100 cm. Each of them has one or two outlets. The consumption may remain the same, but in the latter case the depth decreases and the irrigation area increases. Dropper spiders are installed on a bed in 4 rows with the distribution of up to 4 plants.

Droppers

Droppers can be installed on plastic pipes. They are produced in several types:

• with fixed water flow;
• adjustable - with manual adjustment of irrigation intensity;
• uncompensated - the intensity of water supply decreases towards the end of the bed;
• compensated - with a membrane and a special valve, creating a constant pressure during pressure fluctuations in the water supply;
• "spider" type - with distribution to several plants.

External droppers are inserted into a plastic pipe, in which holes are pierced with an awl.

Filtration

Special attention is paid to the purification of irrigation water. First, coarse filtration is performed, and then fine filtration. Dirty water quickly clogs the droppers.

Purpose of fittings

The system can be simply assembled using special fittings for drip irrigation.

1. Start connectors for connecting drip tape to plastic water pipes. They are made with a rubber seal or a clamping nut. Holes are drilled in the HDPE pipe using a wood drill with a centering spike and start connectors are tightly inserted with or without taps. Regulation of water consumption is required if certain zones consume it less than others or for alternate watering of different areas.
2. Drip irrigation fittings, angled or in the form of tees, are used to connect the tape to a flexible garden hose. They are also used for branching or turning. The fitting seats are made in the form of ruffs, which ensures tight fastening of the tubes.
3. The repair fitting is used in case of a break or to extend the drip tape. With its help, its ends are connected.
4. The plug is installed at the ends of the drip tape.

Installation from thin-walled tapes

Distributing polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 4 cm are connected to the garden water supply. This diameter is best suited for installing a start connector - a special tap for drip irrigation, which is used to connect a perforated drip tape to the pipe.

It is manufactured with a small thickness and assembled using reinforcement. The holes are made at equal intervals. The drip tape is put on the tap with tension, and then additionally secured with a plastic nut. The ends of the sleeves are closed with plugs, sealed or tucked.

The disadvantage is the low strength of the tape material, which is easily damaged by rodents and insects. In terms of other indicators, the system shows itself only on the positive side.

Installation of a system with tubes and built-in droppers

The system is highly durable and significantly longer lasting. It consists of a hose in which cylindrical droppers are built at regular intervals. The tube can be placed on the soil surface, mounted on stands, suspended on a wire, or buried in the ground.

Water under pressure disperses from the container throughout the system and is smoothly distributed, coming from small holes. It is important that the tank is located at a height of 1-1.5 m from the ground surface. The gardener is only required to fill it in a timely manner, after which the liquid flows to the plants under the influence of gravity.

How to water cucumbers?

In industrial systems, drip irrigation of cucumbers is carried out with water supplied to each plant. The depth of the roots is 15-20 cm and tensiometers are installed there to control humidity. For gardeners, improvised means made from plastic bottles are suitable. They are installed on the bottom or with a closed plug in the ground. The top should be open to fill with water.

1. First way. The dropper is made from a used ballpoint pen refill. It is washed with a solvent to remove any remaining paste and plugged at the end with a match. A puncture is made at the end half the thickness of the rod. A homemade dropper is inserted into a puncture made from the bottom of the bottle at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the containers are filled with water and placed near the bushes so that the moisture gets to the root.
2. Second way. Holes are made in the bottle along the entire height, departing 3-5 cm from the bottom. Then it is buried bottom down to a depth of 20 cm. The cork is unscrewed and the container is filled with water through the top. The bottle can be buried upside down, having previously cut off the bottom, through which it is convenient to fill it with water in the future. To prevent the holes from becoming clogged with soil, the outside of the bottles is wrapped with needle-punched fabric, which is used as a covering material for greenhouses.
3. Third way. Bottles filled with water can be suspended above the ground by punching holes in the lid.

Bottle drip irrigation of cucumbers is convenient due to its cost-effectiveness, since there is no need to spend money on materials. The disadvantage is the difficulty of installation over large areas. The process of filling with water is troublesome, and the holes are often clogged with soil. Despite this, you can be convinced of the advantages of the drip method. Reviews indicate that it is quite effective in small greenhouses.

It is more convenient to fully water cucumbers in large greenhouses through a centralized system with branded drippers.

Drip irrigation devices: automatic

Automatic watering requires funds for equipment, but as a result, a lot of time will be saved and the harvest will compensate for the costs. The most important component of the system is the controller or timer, which does not require human intervention. The latter sets only the frequency and duration, which can be electromechanical or electrical. The controller can set an irrigation program, which takes into account the pressure in the system, sets daily watering cycles and takes into account humidity and temperature.

For simple systems, the drip irrigation scheme requires a single-channel device, but in a complex scheme, the number of channels may be required. Judging by the reviews, experienced gardeners prefer to use several simple timers that work according to separate programs.

In order not to depend on the energy source, it is advisable to purchase devices that run on several AA batteries.

Automatic drip irrigation from a water supply often requires a pump. Its power must correspond to consumption. The mechanism should be simple, not very noisy and resistant to chemical compounds, which are often used in the system as fertilizers.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that surface irrigation is the most common, the lack of sometimes favorable conditions for it, water shortages and energy savings lead to the need to use one or another drip irrigation device. The choice depends on the climate, landscape, types of crops cultivated and other factors.

It is important to properly design and install a drip irrigation system to reduce the likelihood of failures and avoid wasting time on repair and maintenance work.

Many people use drip irrigation to irrigate plants on their site, and you can organize it yourself. It consists of several parts that must be selected based on certain rules and features. It also has a number of disadvantages.

Drip irrigation device

This name refers to a branched arrangement of conduits used to supply water to the roots of plants. Many people are interested in how drip irrigation works, so the principle of operation is very simple: liquid enters the pipes from a water supply or using a pump from a well, and then it goes to the plants. It is important to take into account the irrigation scheme and water consumption, the main thing is that the wiring is simple but practical.

Drip irrigation equipment

Installing this type of irrigation is a simple task, and anyone can handle it if they wish. Drip irrigation in a greenhouse and outdoors requires the following components: pump, valve, main pipes, timer, tape, fittings, filters, and so on. It is important to take a responsible approach to the selection of each element so that the device works correctly and without interruptions.

Drip irrigation hose

There are several important aspects to consider when choosing the right hoses.

1. Many people are interested in the length of drip irrigation hoses, but this parameter ranges from 1.5 to 100 m.
2. The throughput depends on the diameter. A long hose requires a large diameter. The standard setting is 13 mm.
3. The service life of a hose depends on the material from which it is made, so the most popular option is vinyl PVC and rubber. The second option is the best.
4. A hose has a limit to the pressure it can withstand. For example, options with reinforcement will handle 5-6 bar, and single-layer ones - no more than 2 bar.
5. Choose hoses that will not deteriorate not only during hot weather, but also at low temperatures so that they do not deteriorate in winter. It is better to buy opaque varieties as they are less prone to blooming.

Drip irrigation tape

Many gardeners choose tape to organize drip irrigation, which makes it as optimized and high-quality as possible. The diameter of most options is 22 and 16 mm. Tapes can have different thicknesses, a maximum of 15 ml - suitable for rocky surfaces, and the most popular option is 6 ml. A drip irrigation system may consist of the following tapes:

1. Labyrinth. The cheapest tape has a zigzag-like shape, which reduces the speed of the water. The liquid in them warms up well, but there is one significant drawback - uniform irrigation cannot be achieved.
2. Slotted. A more modern option that is easy to install and helps to carry out uniform drip irrigation. To operate effectively, the water must be of high quality, so you will have to use filters.
3. Emitter. The highest quality and most reliable option that is resistant to stains. The tape can be compensated or uncompensated. In the first option, the length of the tape does not affect water consumption, but in the second option, on the contrary.

Drip Irrigation Fittings

There are a large number of different elements and components that are important for assembling the most complex systems with minimal loss of time. It is important to understand how drip irrigation works in order to determine the number of elements needed for a particular area. There are a number of criteria that should be taken into account when choosing.

1. Fittings are made from high-density polyethylene, which can be primary or secondary. The first option is of higher quality, and it meets all state standards.
2. All fitting surfaces must be smooth and free of depressions.
3. Another important rule for choosing a fitting is that the end surfaces of the clamps must be in a strictly perpendicular position to the axis.

Drip irrigation allows for a variety of fittings, and most products fit 3/4″ pipes. Here are some popular details:

Filter for drip irrigation

When choosing a filter, you need to take into account the throughput and this indicator is indicated on the filter itself. The parameter is within the range from 3 to 100 m 3 /h. Please note that the filter capacity must be greater than the volume of water that the pump can produce. Drip irrigation for a summer residence may include two types of filters:

1. Reticulate. Suitable for filtering water from a water supply system or well. They have a mesh that traps small particles of mineral origin, such as sand, clay, and so on.
2. Disk. For an open reservoir, this filter option is suitable, which is more expensive, but it is more effective and reliable. Disc filters are universal, and they retain both organic and mineral impurities. Another plus is that they are easy to clean.

Timer for drip irrigation

To improve the system, you can set a timer, thanks to which you can automatically control the process. A drip irrigation system for a greenhouse and an open area may include the following timer:

1. Manual or mechanical. The operation of this timer requires constant monitoring. They lost their relevance with the advent of automatic devices.
2. Auto. Drip irrigation is carried out in accordance with a given program. The device can regulate the amount of water that will be consumed during irrigation. This option is more practical for a greenhouse.

Drip irrigation pump

You need to buy a pump if water will be supplied from a tank or pond. It is important that the liquid settles and warms up before irrigation. Drip irrigation of the garden involves purchasing a pump, for which you should know the immersion depth, height and distance over which the water will be supplied. Main types of pumps:

Types of drip irrigation

There are different types of drip irrigation, which have their own characteristics and details. You can install automatic or non-automatic drip irrigation, but the first option is more convenient.

1. Drip hose. The main element is a thick-walled pipe that can withstand pressure up to 3 atm. Thanks to this, water supply can be carried out over long distances. Emitters or droppers are installed at regular intervals. In most cases, the flow rate is 1-2 l/h.
2. Drip tape. The tape is attached to the main hose. The length of the irrigation line can reach up to 450 m. As for throughput, it reaches 500 l/h.
3. External micro-droppers. Irrigation is carried out using drops and micro-jets, the intensity of which in some models can be adjusted. Droppers are installed on the outside of pipes or on attached branches.

How to make drip irrigation?

You can organize drip irrigation on your site with your own hands. First, it is better to make them in several beds, and then increase them to the entire garden. There are simple instructions on how to make drip irrigation yourself:

1. The hose is connected to the water supply. It is important to insert a filter that will trap contaminants.
2. Using an awl, small holes are made in the hose, and a plug is installed at the end.
3. Droppers or emitters should be inserted into them.

Disadvantages of drip irrigation

When deciding on an irrigation option, you should take into account not only the advantages, but also the disadvantages.

1. The automatic drip irrigation system can become clogged with solid elements of organic and chemical origin, as well as plant parts.
2. Compared with the mechanical method, the price of drip irrigation is higher.
3. Drip irrigation tapes and hoses are vulnerable to pests such as rodents and feral pigs.
4. The average service life of such systems does not exceed two years. As parts wear out, they will have to be replaced, which requires costs.

Water consumption for drip irrigation

When calculating indicators for the system, it is important to take into account the moisture consumption over a certain period of time. The drip irrigation scheme should be guided by the crop’s moisture needs, the quality and type of soil, the speed and volume of liquid supply from the source and the length of the drip tape. Based on the type of water flow, three types of emitters can be distinguished:

Evgeniy Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

Since ancient times, people have tried to use water as carefully as possible to irrigate cultivated crops. Improving irrigation methods, people gradually moved from using pots with holes buried in the ground to a drainage irrigation system, from clay conduits to perforated metal pipes. A real breakthrough in the issue of economical use of water for irrigation was the invention of plastic. Thanks to plastic pipes, a drip irrigation system has become a reality, which today any adult can assemble.

What is drip irrigation

The irrigation method of supplying water in small portions to the root zone of cultivated plants is called drip irrigation. This unique method was first proposed by the Israeli Simcha Blass. Since 1960, microirrigation has rapidly spread throughout the world. In addition to minimizing water consumption, drip irrigation has a positive effect on the development of crops, which increases crop yields. This method has gained particular popularity in arid climates.

Advantages over manual watering

The usual method of irrigating land in household plots is to spray water using various devices. The automatic drip irrigation system has clear advantages over traditional methods of soil moistening:

• It can be used in open ground conditions of vegetable gardens, greenhouses, indoor plants, fully automating the watering process.
• Water enters the root zone of the plant, providing uniform moisture to the required area of ​​soil. At the same time, the top layer of earth is not eroded.
• The jet pressure and time of water flow are adjustable. The root system of the plant organism does not become wet from excess moisture.
• Through the micro-irrigation design, mineral fertilizers can be supplied directly to the roots, which contributes to the natural feeding of crops and increases yield.
• The likelihood of diseases of cultivated plants associated with putrefactive infections that affect them in conditions of constant waterlogging of the soil is minimized.
• There are fewer weeds, since water does not get into the aisle.
• The soil does not require constant loosening to allow air to enter, because a dense crust does not form on the surface of the earth.
• Water consumption is significantly reduced.
• Productivity increases.

Operating principle and device of drip irrigation

The system operates on the basis of drip supply of water to the root system of plants in two ways: to the soil surface (with a perforated hose) or deep into the soil (using special drippers). The water flow is supplied from a storage tank or water supply system. The drip irrigation system is assembled from the following parts and assemblies:

• Plastic or metal container for collecting water. Plastic is more practical because it does not rust. It is better to choose an opaque tank so that the liquid in it does not “bloom”.
• Pump for pumping water from a well.
• Water tap for regulating water flow.
• Mechanical or electronic controller (timer) to automate the irrigation process.
• Ball valve for emergency shut-off of water movement.
• Water pressure reduction reducer.
• A water filter to prevent pipe clogging.
• Adapter for fastening the water conduit system.
• Main plastic pipes with a cross-section of up to 40 mm.
• Thinner water conduits: drip tapes and tubes, droppers.
• Fittings (tees, adapters, plugs, etc.) for mounting and distributing system parts.

Water from the tank moves through the main pipes. Their location depends on the area of ​​the irrigated area and branches out with drip lines to each plant. If the system provides for deep watering, the water pipes are equipped with branches with droppers at the end, which are inserted into the ground to each root. The water filter protects the pipes from clogging, and the reducer regulates the jet pressure to the required level that is safe for the operation of the irrigation system. The ends of the water conduits are closed with plugs.

Kinds

The operation of a drip irrigation system is based on gravity or forced water supply. The first type of irrigation is based on the gravity of the water flow. In order for the pressure to be sufficient and the liquid to flow to the root system of the plants, the storage tank is raised above the ground to a height of at least two meters. A forced irrigation system is provided with water due to its movement from the central water supply or pumped from a well.

The optimal pressure for drip irrigation is no more than 2 atmospheres, so it is advisable to provide the forced mechanism with a reducer to regulate the water pressure. In extreme cases, this function is performed by a water tap. With its help, you manually adjust the water jet, approximately determining the desired pressure. The owner of the cultivated plot independently chooses which irrigation system to use. His choice depends on many factors. Material costs, as a rule, play a decisive role.

How to make drip irrigation in an open area or greenhouse

The distance between the droppers must be at least 30 cm so that the soil is moistened evenly. In this case, a maximum of 20 liters per plant. For small cultivation areas, a gravity-based drip irrigation system is often used. In the case of equipping large areas with irrigation devices, the best option would be automated irrigation using an electronic controller. It will provide regular, high-quality watering.

Materials and equipment

A simple micro-irrigation system for garden beds can be built from scrap materials yourself. A two-hundred-liter plastic barrel raised to a height of 2 meters, a watering main hose and thinner water conduits are the main parts of a homemade irrigation structure. The most primitive method of drip irrigation is plastic bottles suspended on poles with medical droppers inserted into their caps. Their free ends with a non-needle tip are inserted into the ground near each plant being grown.

Tubes of medical droppers are used as taps and in more complex homemade micro-irrigation designs. To do this, attach the rubber tips of the droppers to the holes made in the main hose. There should be as many holes as the number of plants being watered. Automation of drip irrigation is possible through the use of the following mechanisms in the design:

• float-type shut-off valve to control the filling of the tank with water;
• reducer for regulating water pressure in the system;
• micro-irrigation controller to eliminate excess water consumption and excess soil moisture.

Scheme development

To regularly provide cultivated plants with water, it is very important to correctly develop an irrigation scheme and calculate the parameters of the parts that need to be purchased. The size of the water intake tank is calculated by multiplying the irrigated surface area by 30 liters required to deeply moisten the soil. If a storage tank with a capacity of 1 cubic meter is raised to a height of 2 m, you can efficiently water an area with seedlings of 50 square meters.

It is not advisable to make drip lines longer than 100 m. Violation of this rule will lead to problems in the operation of the irrigation structure at any capacity of the main pipes. Modified types of water pipelines are more expensive, but are more resistant to changes in water and air temperatures and the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays. The following parameters depend on the diameter of the pipes used:

Installation

If you correctly calculate the parameters and develop a drip irrigation scheme, you can significantly reduce the labor intensity of gardening and greenhouse work and almost double the yield of grown crops. When all the necessary parts have been purchased, you should begin installing the irrigation structure:

1. Make a support platform at a height of 2 meters and install the tank on it.
2. If the container is filled with water from the water supply network, it is advisable to equip it with a float-type shut-off valve. This will prevent liquid from overflowing.
3. Insert an adapter into the lower part of the water collection tank. Screw a water tap onto it using FUM sealing tape to manually regulate the water pressure.
4. Next, according to the diagram, install the controller (timer). By programming it in a certain way, you can achieve watering of the area without the presence of an observer. Irrigation of the land plot will begin at the specified time and end strictly at the appointed hour.
5. Install a ball valve to shut off the flow of water into the system if necessary.
6. To avoid surges in water pressure, a reduction gear is installed. If the pressure in the water supply network is less than 2 atm, install a pump that increases the water pressure.
7. A fine filter will prevent clogging of pipes. It is attached after the water pressure regulator.
8. Using fittings, the developed design of main pipes and branches with drip lines is mounted. It is connected to the main water pipeline through an adapter.
9. A thinner hose is connected to the main pipe through tees and adapters. The ends of the bends are bent and special clamps are put on them, which act as plugs.
10. 3 mm holes are made on top of the thin hose at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Splitters are inserted into them. Rubber seals are used to prevent water from leaking out.
11. The splitters come in different designs; they have 2-4 outlets, onto which “antennae” (thin tubes) with droppers are attached.
12. Test the operation of the installation by adjusting the water pressure.

Operating a Drip Irrigation System

Correct operation of the automated system is the key to its uninterrupted operation. To prevent failure of the micro-irrigation structure, it is necessary to:

1. Clean the filter weekly.
2. In the fall, dismantle the drip irrigation system, drain all the water and store it until the next season.
3. After feeding the plants with a solution of mineral fertilizers through a micro-irrigation system, fill the tank with clean water, rinse the pipes and hoses with it for 10-15 minutes. This must be done to avoid the negative effects of chemicals on plastic water pipes.
4. To increase the service life of a drip irrigation system, it is advisable to lay its elements underground. Subsoil irrigation requires a lot of effort when installing the structure, but has a number of advantages. Firstly, water is saved because it does not evaporate from the surface of the earth. Secondly, the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays and weather conditions on pipes and hoses are reduced.

Drip irrigation system for indoor plants

If there is no one to entrust with watering indoor plants during the holidays, you can build gravity drip watering for green pets using improvised means. To do this, you will need a water container, the volume of which depends on the number of flower pots, and medical droppers. This method of micro-irrigation is good because it can be used to regulate the rate of moisture supply to the root of the plant.

If we take, for example, a ten-liter plastic canister and several droppers as the basis for the design, then you need to proceed as follows:

1. Drill as many holes 1 cm above the bottom of the container as there are flower pots that require watering when the owners are away. Their diameter should be slightly less than the lumen of the dropper tube.
2. Heat the tubes one by one in boiling water until they soften and insert into the holes of the canister. To avoid leaks, treat the joints with any sealant available in the house (silicone, waterproof glue).
3. Fill the container with water and place it 1 m above the level of the flower pots. Adjust the flow of liquid using the clamp-regulator (wheel) of the dropper.
4. Insert the injection unit without a needle into the soil of the flower pot closer to the plant stem.

How to choose automatic drip irrigation

To buy a drip irrigation system, you need to know what the fundamental difference between the models offered on the market is. By correlating the capacity of the structure, its price with your own goals and capabilities, you can make a purchase. Criterias of choice:

• view:
  1. Tubular. They are based on rigid hoses with built-in nozzles for attaching bends.
  2. Tape. The branches of the system consist of elastic bands with capillary holes.
• equipment:

1. The larger the irrigation area, the more components for drip irrigation and the higher the cost of the product.
2. Availability of a storage tank. Such models are more expensive.
3. With automatic regulators of water pressure and watering time or providing manual adjustment.
4. Availability of external dropper nozzles. Their design can be monoblock or collapsible. Monoblock ones cannot be repaired if they break. In collapsible models, you can regulate the speed of falling drops, regardless of the water pressure in the pipe.
5. the price depends on the complexity of the design and the quality of the components.

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