Probably every fishing enthusiast has at least once thought about how to make a homemade boat. This is not an easy task, but it is still possible to make such a watercraft.

Moreover, you don’t have to be an engineer; all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. You will learn how homemade plywood boats are made from our article today.

Manufacturing difficulties

Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimum set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, a homemade inflatable boat (or plywood) can be easily made in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that all this work requires a minimum of time, you can make a boat even under open air. Well, if the weather changes, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic film.

Why are they good?

Firstly, plywood is light, durable and quite warm material. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogues, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (at the same time, inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing gear). In store options, there is a catastrophic lack of free space.

Thirdly, being in a wooden boat, you don’t feel any discomfort at all.

Preparation of materials

The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most affordable and cheap material for such work. And it’s very convenient to work with her.

Let's get down to business

First of all, I would like to note that any work related to self-production any means (be it a tractor or something else, it doesn’t matter) must be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade boats on hand. In some cases, drawings can be replaced with a sketch drawing.

So, how are they made? To assemble the body, you will need to prepare dry boards 2.5 centimeters thick and a 6 mm sheet of plywood. The width of the boards for the stern and sides should be 30.5 centimeters. These are the most optimal sizes for fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and spacers) are made from boards 2.5 centimeters wide. Moreover, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It must be taken into account that the dimensions of all these elements must be precisely maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.

The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties or difficulties. This is due to their simple geometric shape.

During the work, pay special attention to the fit of the joining surfaces and the frill of the boat. All joining edges must be carefully adjusted and have a full length minimum clearances. Either tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fastening elements. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:

The bottom of the boat is made of a sheet of plywood 6 millimeters thick. But, since this part of the boat will be constantly exposed to water, to make the boat waterproof, additionally treat the joints of the hull and the bottom with VIAM-B/3 type glue and secure it with screws along the entire perimeter. If there is no such tool (“VIAM-B/3”), it is quite suitable as an alternative Oil paint. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it does provide a durable and waterproof coating. It is worth noting that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. External seams should be carefully taped with canvas or percale using AK-20. In order not to sink the bottom of the boat, a slatted grid is installed between the spacers (the cross-section of the slats is 5x2 centimeters).

The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean drying oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted 2-3 more times. Liquid paint has better properties; it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, wide soft brushes are used.

Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality coating. However, we do not recommend using them for similar boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less durable and unsuitable for use every year).

Important points

If homemade ones are made motor boats, then an additional drawing of special mounts for an electric or gasoline engine is made. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use regular oars. They are often made from 35mm birch boards. In this case, a spike with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the oar is primed and painted.

And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, the average service life of plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even their rubber competitors can boast of such durability.

Hunting and fishing are a favorite pastime of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod early in the morning in the reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, are used in different ways - rubber, aluminum, boats made of PVC and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any watercraft, if only you had the money, but how can you make a boat with your own hands? We'll tell you in our article.

Plywood boat

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory point in construction is the boat drawings. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to waste time and effort on remaking and adjusting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. By transferring the drawings to paper, we will receive templates for all the necessary parts of the boat in life size. Now we can “cut out” our product and cut out the blanks with a jigsaw. Once you have all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect load-bearing elements structures, transom (cut of the aft part) and frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

Use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape to connect all parts. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but will also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having secured the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this using wooden corners, then move on to sealing the seams.

To obtain suture material, epoxy resin and Aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Next, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the entire structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs processing; it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and sand the surface after drying. Then prime and paint.

Repairing damage to a PVC inflatable boat

If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then you probably often experience leaks due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult; it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and do better repairs in a workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat within a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, upon return it is necessary to redo everything, since a hastily glued patch and without proper technology will not last long.

If a puncture occurs while fishing or hunting, use only the repair kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

• Repair kit (included with the boat);
• Scissors;
• Roller;
• Pencil;
• Solvent promoting degreasing;
• Brush for adhesive.

Cut out a rounded patch from spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, clean it from dirt and degrease it with a solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, coat both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and again give time to dry. After 5 minutes, the restoration itself can begin. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger; it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site; a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and carefully expel all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then leave it to dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

Note!

Classic fishing on the river bank is, without a doubt, very convenient and in some ways even romantic. However, what to do if all the treasured fish are found far from the shore or in a place that cannot be reached except by water?

Boat - The best decision this task. But their cost in stores forces fishermen and tourists to sometimes show initiative and ingenuity, creating watercraft from literally nothing. What materials can you use to make a boat with your own hands?

Boat made of plastic bottles

Unusual, but effective material Banal plastic bottles can be used to create a boat. Since most The common volume of such containers is 2 liters, the most difficult stage in the design will be the collection of material.

In order to create a “bottle” boat, you will need the following materials:

• Bottles;
• Waterproof tape and glue;
• Knife or scissors;
• Wire;
• Plywood and crossbars made of wood or metal.

First of all, you need to thoroughly clean the bottles of stickers and labels. However, the most important thing to do at this stage is give plastic containers density and rigidity. The laws of physics will help with this. The bottles are placed in the refrigerator, where the lids are tightly screwed on, and then moved into a warm place. Thus, the air inside the bottles heats up and gives them an elastic shape. For greater reliability, it is advisable to secure the covers with waterproof glue.

Installation of a boat from plastic bottles

Original logs are formed from pre-prepared bottles.

First step- connecting two bottles with their bottoms. To secure, pull on a plastic ring cut from the middle empty bottle. This entire structure is coated with glue and tightly wrapped with tape in several layers.

The top parts of the next two bottles are cut off, after which the headless plastic is placed on the edges of the workpiece, again using glue and tape. This way, a reliable and sealed fragment of the future boat is obtained.

The further process consists of repeating the above steps and ends with the production of a log of the optimal size.

One float consists of eight logs, which are connected with strong wire, polyethylene and tape. Depending on preferences, the number of logs can vary up or down. The most important thing is to maintain balance and make the boat a reliable means of transportation.

The floats are mounted using crossbars made of wood or metal. The bottom of the boat can again be made of various materials. It can be plywood, plastic or metal sheet.

The final touch in making a boat can be covered with waterproof fabric or finishing with strong plywood followed by painting. This will improve the boat’s reliability and aesthetics.

Plywood boat

In addition to plywood as the main material, to create such a boat you will need:

• Jigsaw;
• Screwdriver;
• Saw;
• Hammer;
• Grinding device;
• Clamps and brushes;
• Wood;

Glue, resins, varnishes, drying oils, etc.

Installation of a plywood boat

The most acceptable option is large-sized plywood without defects in the form of delamination and cracks.

With the help of drawings, extremely careful marking of the material is carried out. If you make the slightest mistakes and discrepancies, making a boat without cracks will become impossible. To outline the plywood, you can use special patterns.

Next, each fragment is cut out with a saw and jigsaw. Particular attention is paid to the joining angles at the ends. The tailgate and frames will require installation of plywood in several layers to increase strength. If the design of the boat assumes the presence of a motor, then the tailgate supplemented with hardwood and glued with fiberglass.

Frames and transoms are fixed with tinned or galvanized screws. The bottom and sides are attached to the transoms using special glue and other materials for seams. It is advisable to strengthen the bottom of the boat with slatted flooring.

The seams are sealed with a special sealant, which contains epoxy resin and Aerosil in a 1:1 ratio. The fillets are stiffening ribs and are laid in the corners. All internal joints are treated with sealant, after which fiberglass is applied to them.

After drying the entire structure, frames, flooring on the bottom, seats and other planned elements are installed.

Before painting, all surfaces are degreased and sanded, then carefully treated with wood impregnation. If after all these actions the surface remains uneven and has cracks, a special putty comes to the rescue, and after drying, a primer.

Usually used for painting marine enamel, hard brush or spray gun.

Folding boat made of duralumin

To create a folding boat you will need:

• Duralumin sheets;
• Rubberized fabric;
• Rivets and overlays;
• Wood;
• Metal scissors;
• Primer and paint.

Installation of a folding boat made of dualuminium

Duralumin is the most advantageous material for creating a folding boat. It is light and very durable, and to create a watercraft you need only six elements: two for the bottom and four for the sides.

There are only three transverse struts in such a boat: one of them is the seat, the other two are struts made of wood with aluminum tubes at the ends. They are inserted into the holes on internal sides sides, which ensures rigidity and reliability of the structure.

Before you start assembling the boat according to the drawings, it is recommended to recreate its prototype from cardboard. This will make it easier to eliminate all mistakes, and besides, such cardboard parts will also serve as patterns for duralumin.

All six parts of the folding boat are cut out with tin snips, then trimmed and hemmed. Holes for rivets are drilled in the joints every 2 centimeters. After that, the fragments of the boat are fastened with rivets, which are sealed with paint. Installation of duralumin can also be carried out using rubberized elastic fabric.

The gunwale and seats are made from any available wood and mounted with galvanized nails. Finally, the finished boat is primed and painted.

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats of various shapes and sizes in specialized stores, many are still interested in how to make a homemade boat from plywood. main reason Such interest lies, perhaps, in the ineradicable craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Even though you can buy anything today, there is some indescribable charm in a homemade dinghy or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the magazine “Rybolov”.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make homemade boats from plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade mini plywood boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their production, as well as determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but to make a small-sized watercraft with our own hands, we don’t need anything complicated:

• Plywood is the most important component. For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Individual parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
To ensure sufficient reliability for the sides, only high-quality plywood should be used for cladding, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of first or second grade material will be higher, but you will be confident in the safety of your boat.

• Wood is used to install internal struts, decorate sides, and seats etc. It is advisable to use edged planed boards made of light wood.
• Suture material is used to connect individual cladding parts into a single whole.. Seams can be made using fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
• Glue is needed to ensure proper sealing of the seams. Today, masters have practically abandoned natural compositions based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and rotting. It is also worth stocking up on fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, you can use fiberglass - then the entire bottom and sides will be covered with it.

Well, don’t forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

• Saw on wood.
• A jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
• Sander.
• Hand tool(hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
• Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
• Brushes for impregnation, varnishing, etc.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before we start work, we decide what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the Internet you can find a variety of drawings of homemade plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a fishing punt or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, we can start designing ourselves.

True, in this case you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat may turn out to be purely decorative.

• Having studied the available designs for homemade plywood boats, or having made your own, we transfer the outlines of the main parts onto paper.
• Using paper templates, we draw lines on the plywood sheets along which the frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
• If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 times the thickness of the sheet itself.

• Having attached the beveled parts to each other, coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called a “whisker” connection.
• At the same time we prepare wooden beams, from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To make work on the project easier, you can assemble special trestles from beams with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the parts on these sawhorses during the joining process, especially if you work without assistants.

Housing assembly

When everything is ready, let's start working:

• Using a wood saw or jigsaw, . The deviation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” when sewing.
• We glue the transom parts (rear side) and frames to obtain required thickness and strength. The glued parts will be a little heavy, but that's okay!
• If you plan to install a boat motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the screws should be such that the tip does not pierce the part through.

• We install the transom on pre-made trestles and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together at the bow.
• We fasten the sheathing parts either using suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

• At this stage, it is very important that all elements match in size, since to reduce the gap you will have to disassemble the entire structure and partially trim the frames.

After the “rough assembly” you can start gluing.

Glue works

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

• We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). Mix the components in a 1:1 ratio using a drill attachment. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
• We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom using wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
• We glue strips of fiberglass and fiberglass onto all the seams from the inside, thoroughly coating the joints with epoxy-aerosol compound.

Note!
Since the majority adhesive compositions contain volatile toxins, all paint and varnish work should be carried out using respiratory protection!

• After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
• To fix the frames we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

• We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten rowlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
• If you plan to equip the boat with a cockpit (a closed space in the bow), we install a cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting for the entire structure to dry, we remove the boat from the trestles, turn it over and sand it outer surface. Then we treat the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive spring look:

• First, thoroughly degrease all parts.
• Then we treat the wood with impregnation. The composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable here.
• We putty all surfaces, masking cracks and irregularities, and then treat them with a special primer.
• You can paint homemade plywood boats with almost any paint, but if you want to ensure durability of the vessel, it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden ships.

• The average paint consumption is 1 – 1.5 l/m2. It is best applied with a brush, but a spray gun can also be used.

Conclusion

A homemade plywood boat made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family outings, etc. Of course, you shouldn’t go out into the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for large rivers and lakes in our country such a design is quite reliable. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas the production and rental of watercraft profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology makes it possible to use them more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
2. A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
3. The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
5. Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
6. The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but must forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car.

For the entire set of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for my first vessel I will have a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the question of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: If you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps of water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For the quiet little ones inland waters the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. The sailing dory is not so capricious, a beginner can learn to control it, knowledgeable movement of the ship under sail. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. His optimal area– approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the boat project sailing equipment not provided, do not install “homemade”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel can sail. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are set aside according to vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. To make a wooden boat last as long as possible, wood materials First you need to soak it generously with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Plywood sheets larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued into strips in advance required length miter connection, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: V Lately Quite a lot of amateurs assemble boats on furniture propellers, using the same technological methods, as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners and so on. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass cloth in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass cloth.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts made of extruded polystyrene foam EPS – effective method increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the ground set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W – displacement in t, 1 – density fresh water, ρ – mass density of foam plastic. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a child's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. Special attention from this set deserves an anchor.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, so to save the rower’s muscular effort great importance acquire the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Because a dory can sail at quite strong wind, it is possible to take one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to relative position CPU and central bank!