Summer residents often have a question: what fertilizers should be used for onions to achieve a good harvest? After all, it often turns out that someone’s harvest is very modest, while someone’s harvest is pleasing to the eye. What was done wrong? One solution to this problem is proper and timely feeding of plants.

Preparing the soil in autumn

The soil in the area where onions will grow must contain the optimal amount of nutrients. Onions love loose soil, the absence of weeds and sufficient light.

Timely and varied feeding will allow the plant to develop well and have sufficient strength to resist various diseases. Fertilizing must be done three times during the growing season. For this purpose, both mineral and organic fertilizers are used.

It is better to prepare the soil for onions in the fall. When planting onions in the spring, you need to worry about the garden bed in the fall. It’s good if the predecessors were from the nightshade or legume family. The land needs to be enriched with organic or mineral fertilizers.

It is best to apply manure in the fall. In its absence, you can use compost and peat. It wouldn't hurt to add a little wood ash. Considering that neutral soil is the best for onions, when the soil is highly acidic, lime is used to neutralize it. With mineral fertilizers, potassium-phosphorus mixtures are applied for plowing; the application rate is 30 grams per 1 square meter of future plantings.

Preparing the soil in spring

In the spring, the area is dug up again, loosened and treated with weed killers. If fertilizers were not applied in the fall, then add superphosphate and well-rotted manure or compost. In addition to providing the soil with nutrients, organic matter also improves the structure of the soil. Fertilizers of natural origin also help in the absorption of inorganic fertilizers. Fertilizers are applied when planting onions or during sowing of seeds, and then thoroughly water the bed.

Interestingly, planting onions (sets) should be small, the size of a pumpkin seed. It is this kind of onion that gives the highest yield and does not go to the arrow.

What nutrients are needed for good bulb development?

For intensive development of onion plants, nitrogen is needed. It is contained in the following fertilizers: bird droppings, manure, ammonium nitrate, urea and others. If there is a lack of nitrogen, the onion noticeably lags behind in growth, which in turn negatively affects the yield. It is worth remembering that for the normal development of the bulb, it requires: phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other nutrients. To provide plants with phosphorus, they are fed with superphosphate. Potassium helps the plant to be more resistant to air and soil drought, as well as temperature fluctuations. In addition, onions that are not deficient in potassium are stored well.

How many times should you feed onions?

Onions need to be fed at all stages of their development. After all, different nutrients are needed at each stage. Therefore, fertilizers are selected taking into account the physiological characteristics of plant development.

When growing onions in spring, a couple of weeks after planting, they begin to fertilize. During this period, plants need nitrogen most. Lack of nitrogen greatly affects the growth and development of bulbs, which ultimately results in low yields.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there will be a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we would like to recommend plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

A month later, you need to do a second feeding. Young plants still need nitrogen, but not in the same quantity as before. Now potassium and phosphorus are added to nitrogen.

When the head begins to form, feed the onion a third time. During this period, plants also need: potassium and phosphorus.

During the first two feedings, it is important to control the nitrogen content. If there is an excess of it, the feather will grow intensively, and the bulb will stop its growth, which has a very negative effect on the harvest.

The second and third feedings are aimed at growing and filling the bulb. In addition, thanks to the use of potash fertilizers, onions are well stored throughout the winter.

Feeding onions when growing them for greens

Onions are often grown to produce juicy greens. Young feathers are very healthy and contain a lot of vitamins and microelements. In early spring, they are a valuable supplier of vitamin C. It is better to grow onions in a separate bed from onions. After all, when the green leaves are torn off, the bulb begins to grow more slowly, which is highly undesirable when growing it for turnips.

The bed for onions should be well fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers. With a lack of nitrogen, onion leaves grow slowly and have a light green color, and soon they completely turn yellow and die. The first fertilizing is applied when the first leaves appear.

Urea or ammonium nitrate is used as a top dressing at a dose of 300 grams per 10 square meters. After 1-2 weeks, another feeding is carried out at the rate of 300 grams of superphosphate and 100 grams of potassium chloride per 100 liters of water. Onions are a very unpretentious crop, but they respond to fertilizer applications with a sharp increase in yield and good presentation.

How do you feed winter onions?

The winter method of growing onions allows you to obtain marketable bulbs more than a month earlier than usual.

In the fall, a month before frost, onion sets are planted to a depth of 5-8 cm with a row spacing of 15-20 cm. When planting under onions, ammonium nitrate is added at the rate of 300 grams per 10 square meters of bed. Then the bed is mulched and covered with fallen leaves or compost to protect it from freezing in winter.

In spring, the leaves are removed and the first feeding is carried out. The question arises: how to feed onions in the spring? It’s good if it’s an aqueous solution of chicken manure. If mineral fertilizers are preferred, then ammonium nitrate is added. The second feeding should be done after green leaves appear.

You can use growth stimulants such as Plantafol or any other. This will allow the plants to increase their immunity and give them strength to form a harvest. During the second and third fertilizing, attention is paid to the formation of the bulbs, therefore fertilizers are used containing not only nitrogen, but also potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizing winter onions is not much different from those planted in the spring, except that all stages take place a month earlier.

Preventive measures in pest control

One of the important factors for a good harvest is the ability to protect plants from pests and diseases. Pest protection begins even before the plants are planted. Therefore, after the harvest is harvested, all plant residues are taken outside the beds and burned.

If the plants have not been infected with diseases, they can be placed in a compost heap. In order to kill pests in winter, the beds are dug deep. It is not recommended to plant onions after onions or garlic; these plants have common pests. In the spring, you can plant carrots or calendula between the onions; they repel pests such as onion flies. Both chemicals and traditional methods are good in the fight against onion flies and other pests. If they are applied on time, then the harvest of bulbs will be excellent.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

How to feed onions after germination in early spring? What fertilizers are best to use? Let's consider several different feeding options.

First:

1. One tablespoon of potassium chloride, two tablespoons of superphosphate and one and a half tablespoons of ammonium nitrate are diluted in 10 liters of water.
2. One and a half tablespoons of potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate and three tablespoons of superphosphate are dissolved in a bucket of water.
3. Three tablespoons of superphosphate and one and a half potassium chloride are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Second:

1. Dissolve 40 milliliters of Vegeta and 20 grams of urea in 10 liters of water.
2. Ready-made preparation "Agricol-2" in the amount of one tablespoon per bucket of water.
3. Mix 20 grams of superphosphate and 20 milliliters of the drug “Effekton-O” in a bucket of water.

Third:

1. Add 60 milliliters of ammonia to a bucket of water.
2. Dissolve 20 grams of salt and ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water, adding a few grains of potassium permanganate.
3. Add 40 grams of superphosphate to a bucket of water.

Fertilizing with organic fertilizers

For supporters of organic fertilizers, all industrially produced fertilizers can be completely replaced with organic ones and prepared independently.

• Mullein solution. Manure is diluted with water in the ratio of 10 kilograms of manure to 100 liters of water. This solution must stand for at least 7 days, after which it is used in a ratio of 2 liters of solution per 10 liters of water.
• Horse manure solution. Add 5 kilograms of horse manure to 100 liters of water and allow to ferment for 10 days, then apply in the proportion of 1 liter of slurry per bucket of water
• Bird droppings solution. It is the most concentrated, so 1 kilogram of litter must be diluted in 25 liters of water and allowed to ferment for 15 days. After this, it is used in the same way as a solution with horse manure.

Interestingly, when using fresh manure when planting onions, the plant forms a loose bulb, which is not suitable for storage.

Solutions should not be used undiluted; they will burn the root system of plants and will do nothing but harm. The same applies to fertilizing the beds with fresh manure.

How not to harm plants

When applying fertilizers, you should remember that the fertilizer should be applied to the onions in a pre-watered bed and after application, be sure to spray the plants with water to remove fertilizer residues from the leaves. Otherwise, fertilizer particles may cause chemical burns to feathers.

When growing this crop, it is necessary to comply with the norms for applying fertilizers during the fertilizing period. After all, onions very quickly accumulate applied mineral fertilizers. This not only negatively affects its storage, but nitrates also accumulate. This means that you should not get carried away with too frequent feeding. It is quite enough to feed the onions 3 times during the growing season.

In addition, it is better to “underfeed” plants than to “overfeed”. After all, nitrates are not the most beneficial for the human body. Therefore, you should use fertilizer for onions with caution.

And a little about the author’s secrets

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

• inability to move easily and comfortably;
• discomfort when going up and down stairs;
• unpleasant crunching, clicking not of your own accord;

A vegetable rich in vitamins and minerals, but here’s how to feed onions so that they are large when harvesting. It contains glucose, fructose, sucrose, proteins and ascorbic acid. Eating onions helps improve digestion. But to grow a really big vegetable, you need to plant it and care for it correctly.

Fertilizing the soil before planting

Onions can be grown from seed or set. Growing the second option requires much less intervention in its growth and care. Despite this, grown in this way, it still needs feeding. Preparation for planting occurs in several stages:

• Calibration;
• Heat treatment;
• Soaking in biostimulants;
• Germination;
• Hardening.

The ideal soil for planting onions is black soil.

It should be fertilized as thoroughly as possible before planting. Lands such as peat bogs or loams are also suitable. Such soils require maximum care so that the onions are comfortable and good throughout the entire growth period. The soil must be of medium moisture and not too sandy. Drier varieties will have to be constantly fertilized, otherwise the onions will turn out tasteless.

The soil for onions is prepared in several stages in winter and spring. In winter, preparation occurs immediately after harvesting. The spring period is characterized by the future planting of vegetables.

• In the fall, when digging up the garden, you need to pull out all the excess plant residues and add fertilizer to the onions. It is worth remembering that an excess of fertilizers is as dangerous for the future harvest as an excess of moisture. That is why the land is fertilized in two stages - in spring and autumn.

Fertilizer Options

Of the mineral compositions, potassium is the best. Before loosening the soil in the autumn, use fertilizers like compost or humus.

They also add superphosphate, nitrophosk, and wood ash as fertilizer for onions.

To increase the loose structure, add more peat.

Fertilizers for onions can also be professional, that is, those that are sold in specialized stores.

How to grow large onions

Fertilizers should be added at each onion growth phase. Feeding onions should not be a one-time process - it is a constant process consisting of four phases:

1. Onions require first feeding. It is carried out immediately after the first feathers emerge. This is the first stage of onion growth. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are most effective in this regard. Up to ten grams of fertilizer is diluted per ten liters. water. This is enough for about 2 sq.m. It is not necessary to feed at this stage if the onions look healthy and do not have any growth defects. This depends most on the soil in which the head is located. It is worth fertilizing only if the land is not rich in black soil. This is the first stage of how to grow large onions.
2. Second stage of feeding. When a month passes from sowing, the onions require additional feeding. At this stage, the vegetable needs phosphorus and potassium. For this purpose, superphosphates are used as fertilizing.
3. The third feeding occurs at the moment when the bulb is already fully formed. Onions require calcium, because all minerals and vitamins go into the formation of the bulb. It is best to use lime as a fertilizer. It is known for its effect - the vegetable grows large and also reduces the acidity level in the soil.
4. Autumn fertilizer. It is simply necessary in order to restore soil resources during the summer period. You can use organic or mineral compounds as a top dressing. Fertilizers are mixed with each other and the soil is fertilized with this mixture. Humus is often used as an organic fertilizer. You can also feed the soil using compost.

Rules for fertilizing soil

You need very little fertilizer - in small portions. You can feed the plant when it looks unhealthy or has obvious defects in development.

A strong concentration of fertilizers is harmful to onions.

To properly feed the soil, you need to know its acidity level. It is enough to have an idea of ​​the chemical composition of the soil that is on your site. Putrefactive soils and black soil have different compositions and must be taken into account.

Never use fresh fertilizer. They must be rotted and diluted with water. Organic fertilizers may attract some types of insects and pests.

Feeding onions is a necessity when growing large varieties.

Rules for choosing an area for planting

The vegetable does not like soil that is too watery. The area for planting should be level, light and well dried. As for fertilizers, they need to be applied evenly. Do not overdo it with fertilizing, otherwise the onions may have an unpleasant smell and taste.

When planting seeds, you need to maintain a certain distance between each seed. This will help to grow large onions, which can later be fertilized and the beds put in order. With fertilizing and the correct planting technology, you can achieve a large and large harvest. Planted according to the scheme: 15 by 1.5 cm. Depth - 2 cm. The soil is fertilized in advance and prepared for planting. In spring, the area should be fertilized with a solution of copper sulfate. At the end of the year, a small set appears.

Onions can be planted without additional covering structures. Despite the fact that this is a fairly heat-loving plant, it is not afraid of frost. They are planted in early spring, and the area for planting is cleared of snow and moisture. It is advisable to select the most fertile soil, with abundant fertilizer. Onions do not like shade, so you should not grow them near trees or other plants. The best place for planting is sunny.

It is advisable to do the feeding in advance so that there is free access to it in the future. It is not advisable to treat the soil with liquid fertilizers before planting. Onions don't like this and will eventually not ripen. The most effective methods of fertilization are compost and humus. Fertilizers of this type can be used to fertilize almost the entire area, and they will not harm the growing crop.

Growing large onions

The size depends primarily on its variety. The second reason is high-quality weeding and fertilizers.

Proper beds for growing onions - without weeds. You can get rid of them with a hoe.

Despite the fact that onions do not tolerate excess feeding and moisture, it is worth watering them sometimes. Immediately after planting, you should water at least once a week.

In July, you should stop feeding and watering because the first bulbs appear. Based on the condition of the feathers, you can determine the quality of the future onion and the water content inside the soil.

The crop is completely harvested after the feathers fall. This means that it is already sufficiently ripe and the time has come for harvesting the onions. It needs to be dried in a dry, ventilated area. The area is finally cleaned after a week - dry feathers may remain on the surface. Greens are also suitable for growing in greenhouses. Feeding is also needed there, but it is slightly different from usual. Most often, these are specialized sets of fertilizers. Even those who grow onions in a greenhouse can boast of a large harvest.

It is very important that care and feeding are carried out at a clearly established time. Fertilizing cannot be left until next year and must be done anew each time.

Growing healthy onions, no matter indoors or outdoors, is impossible without care. In order to ultimately obtain a high-quality harvest with excellent taste and nutritional properties, which did not suffer during ripening and will survive winter storage well, you need to properly fertilize and water the root crops, according to the stages of development.

Mandatory conditions for caring for onions in the garden

Growing seedlings in the garden also involves weeding to get rid of weeds throughout the hot season. This procedure should be carried out at least once every 1-1.5 weeks. If weeds are not removed, excess moisture will form, which will increase the risk of fungal diseases. Failure to comply with this rule will cause the bulbs to become oversaturated with moisture, which, in turn, will lead to poor shelf life. When the weed reaches 5 cm in height, it must be removed immediately.

Root crops should be watered no more than once a week. Consumption – 12 l/m2. Automatic drip irrigation is also appropriate. The recommended water temperature is +18 o C. Failure to comply with this point will result in the appearance of powdery mildew, which contributes to the rotting of the plant.

Hilling up the beds is also necessary, as is loosening the row spacing, so that the roots have the most simplified access to oxygen.

Feeding onions for turnips in June

In the spring, the seedlings are not fertilized. Two weeks after planting, fertilizing is applied for the first time, and it occurs in the first half of June. The ground part of the onion at this time is light in color and quite weak.

The first feeding is based on nitrogen-containing substances to stimulate the development of onions.

The most popular chemical and folk remedies:

• Those who prefer organics fertilize with mullein (1 cup) or chicken manure with urea (1 tablespoon). Any of the substances is diluted in 10 liters of water in the specified ratio. Consumption – 3 l/m²;
• when choosing mineral fertilizers, they give preference to: ammonium nitrate (30 g), superphosphate (40 g), potassium chloride (20 g). They are diluted with 10 liters of water, and the consumption is 5 l/m²;
• chemicals: Agricola Vegeta (2 tablespoons) per 10 liters of water and urea (1 tablespoon). Consumption – 5 l/m²;
• lovers of traditional methods fertilize with ammonia (3 tablespoons) per 10 liters of water. Consumption – 2 l/m².

If the soil lacks nitrogen, onion feathers develop slowly and appear weak. But too much bait is also bad. The plant will put all its energy into forcing greenery, and the bulb itself will be underdeveloped. If there is no automatic watering system, be sure to water the onions after feeding. After moistening, you will have to loosen the soil each time.

Protection against insects and other pests also begins in the first month of summer and is carried out once a week, preferably during wet weather.

If the weather is dry, every half month the plants are treated with one of the following:

• Ridomil 0.2% – 1.5 kg/1 ha;
• Zineb 0.4% – 2.5 kg/1 ha;
• Bordeaux mixture 7% – 6 kg/1 ha;
• copper oxychloride 0.4% – 2.5 kg/1 ha.

To increase efficiency, drugs are alternated.

Feeding onions for turnips in July

The secondary feeding procedure is carried out on the 20th day after the first. But this time the emphasis is on phosphorus and potassium. Consumption – 10 l/1 m2.

Most popular recipes:

• ammonium nitrate (30 g), superphosphate (60 g), potassium chloride (30 g);
• salt (1 tablespoon), ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon), iodine 1% (10 g);
• nitrophoska (2 tablespoons).

The most commonly used herbal infusion (1 liter) is ⅓ mint greens or nettles with dandelion leaves, pour 3 liters of water, mix with yeast (1 tablespoon) and leave for 3 days. Before use, dilute in 9 liters of water.

Even in the middle of summer, foliar feeding with Agricola-2 is carried out. Consumption – 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water.

If your onion does not have enough phosphorus, then the tops of the feathers dry out, which should be trimmed so as not to take away excess juice from the fruit. With a deficiency of potassium, all the leaves turn yellow, which should also be gotten rid of.

Prolonged heat requires more frequent watering - at least twice a week, 6 l/1 m2. Water with a watering can under the foliage, in small streams, twice a day, after sunrise and before sunset.

Feeding onions for turnips in August

Depleted soil necessitates the need for a third feeding when the onion head is formed. It should grow to 4 cm in diameter, so potassium-phosphorus preparations diluted in 10 liters of water are chosen:

• potassium chloride (30 g) and an aqueous solution of superphosphate (60 g);
• superphosphate (2 tablespoons);
• potassium salt (10 g) and superphosphate (20 g);
• infusion with wood ash (250 g of substance) is diluted in 10 liters of boiling water and infused for 2 days;
• Effecton-O (2 tablespoons) and superphosphate (1 tablespoon).

Consumption of ready-made mixtures is 5 l/1 m2.

VEGETABLE CROPS

CABBAGE

WHITE CABBAGE. The first feeding is carried out 20 days after planting the seedlings: 0.5 liters of mushy mullein are added to 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters are used per plant.

10 days after the first feeding: to 10 liters of water add 0.5 liters of mushy mullein or 0.5 liters of chicken manure infusion, 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. For 1 plant - 1 liter of infusion.

Early July. Only mid- and late-ripening varieties of cabbage are fed. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of microelements. For 1 m2 use 6-8 liters.

August. Only mid- and late-ripening varieties are fed. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska. Per 1 m2 - 6-8 l.

In the first 2-3 weeks after planting For seedlings, excessive soil moisture in the upper layer is undesirable, since the root system must penetrate into the deeper layers, where moisture reserves are more stable.

With optimal soil moisture, the inner leaves of the cabbage plant grow a little faster than the outer ones, so they press tightly against each other from the inside, forming a dense head of cabbage. Fluctuations in soil moisture lead to uneven growth of inner leaves and cracking of heads.

To prevent ripe heads of cabbage from cracking, they need to be bent several times in one direction - to disrupt the root system. This will stop the supply of nutrients and slow down the growth of the cabbage.

For prevention against aphids, snails and slugs plants and soil are dusted with wood ash (1 cup per 1 m2).

CAULIFLOWER. To form a unit of yield, it requires approximately 2 times more nutrients than white cabbage. The highest need for phosphorus is required for nitrogen and potassium. With a lack of boron, the apical buds die, voids form inside the head and in the stump, and the head rots.

With a lack of molybdenum Large leaves form and the heads become ugly. When grown on sandy soil, additional application is required. manganese. Therefore, cauliflower must be fed with microelements.

First feeding give 5-7 days after planting the seedlings - with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water per 10 plants) and potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon) with the addition of 1 teaspoon of microfertilizers.

Second feeding- at the beginning of the formation of the head, per 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers is useful: bird droppings diluted with water 20 times, or mullein diluted with water 10 times, or slurry diluted with water 4 times.

To obtain snow-white heads They are protected from the sun: 2-3 leaves are broken or tied above the head.

RADISH

Radish, like any early ripening crop, is very demanding on soil fertility and responsive to fertilizers.

To protect the seedlings from cruciferous flea beetle, they are pollinated with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash (1:1). To some extent, sprinkling road dust on the seedlings repels the flea beetle.

During sowing and care do not use potassium fertilizers and ash, otherwise the plants may shoot. Good fertilizers are compost and nitroammophoska.

ONION

BULB ONIONS. Do not apply fresh manure to the onions, otherwise growth will be delayed and the formation of leaves will not stop for a long time. The bulb forms late and ripens poorly, is more susceptible to neck rot, and is poorly stored.

Onions respond well to application mineral fertilizers. However, its root system is sensitive to increased concentrations of salts, so it is better to apply them in small portions 2-3 times.

Immediately after the emergence of nigella seedlings, sowing need to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g/m2. When 1-2 true leaves are formed, the first thinning is carried out, leaving 1.5-2 cm between plants. At the same time, weak plants are removed. After 3-4 true leaves appear, thinning is repeated to the final distance - 5-7 cm.

After the second thinning, fertilizing is necessary complete mineral fertilizer, better in liquid form. Fertilizing with slurry diluted 5-6 times with water or bird droppings diluted 10-15 times has a good effect. Add 30-40 g of superphosphate to a bucket of water. 3-4 buckets of solution are used per 10 m.

One month before cleaning watering is stopped. Last feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are carried out during the formation of the bulb; 150 g of potassium salt and 200 g of superphosphate are added per 10 m2.

When growing onions in heavy soil, it promotes rapid formation and ripening unhilling of plants. In this case, carefully, without damaging the root system, the soil is raked away from the bulbs.

At early spring sowing With seeds, onions are ready for harvesting in late August-early September. In some years, due to unfavorable weather conditions, it does not have time to ripen by this time. To speed up ripening, plants are dug up, damaging the root system and disrupting the connection with the soil.

After 2-4 days, depending on the weather, the bulbs are removed and laid out to dry along with the leaves. Due to the outflow of plastic substances, the ripening process occurs and bulbs suitable for storage are formed.

Sometimes rolling or crushing leaves is used to speed up the ripening of bulbs. However, this technique is harmful to the crop, since the plants are damaged and pathogenic organisms penetrate into the bulbs through the resulting gaps. In addition, rolling does not stop growth, and plants continue to grow with a broken stem.

FROM SEVK. When the feather reaches a height of 10 cm, plant processing begins from illnesses(phytosporin - every 2 weeks). When the feather reaches a height of 8-10 cm, carry out first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 cup of mushy mullein, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea, per 1 m2 - 2-3 liters of solution.

Second feeding- 12-15 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters of solution.

Third- when the bulb reaches the size of a walnut. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters of solution.

Measures to combat onion fly.

1. 
   Onions are placed next to carrots. The specific smell of carrots repels the onion fly, and the phytoncides of onions repel the carrot fly.


2. 
   Dissolve 1 cup of table salt in 10 liters of water, and water the onion ridges from a watering can, trying not to get it on the feathers. The first time this is done when the feather reaches 5 cm, after 20 days the watering is repeated.


3. 
   When a fly appears, sprinkle the soil with a repellent: 100 g of wood ash, or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of tobacco dust, or 1 teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m2 (2 times with an interval of 10-18 days).

Measures to combat peronosporosis ( downy mealy dew). The onion bed should have a direction from north to south and be well lit by the sun. Crops and plantings should not be thickened. Before planting, the seedlings are warmed up. Feathers at a height of 10-12 cm are sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride, and every 2 weeks they are sprayed with phytosporin.

LEEK. First feeding- when 5-6 true leaves appear, second- a month after the first one. For 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 teaspoon each of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. For 1 m2 - 3-4 liters of solution.

Once a week, before hilling, add ash - 1 cup per 1 m2.

GARLIC

As soon as the garlic leaves emerge from the ground, plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 10 l - per 1 m2.

When the garlic leaves reach a height of 10-15 cm, rake the soil away from the bulb, sprinkle it with ash and return the soil to its place. This operation is repeated when arrows appear.

Removing arrows garlic, leave a few pieces. Using them, you can easily determine the optimal harvest time. As soon as on the heads the wrapper cracks and the bulbs begin to look outside, it's time to dig garlic.

To improve the health of planting material It is recommended to regularly rejuvenate the cultivated variety by sowing aerial bulbs. In the first year of cultivation, they form single-toothed ones. They are planted in the fall and the following year they receive normal multi-toothed bulbs.

BEET DINING

Loves sprinkling and loosening. When the root crop reaches walnut size, make fertilizing: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska and 1 glass of wood ash. 10 liters of fertilizing should be enough for 1 m2 of area.

After 10 days- second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mushy mullein and 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 5-6 l.

After the second thinning: for 10 liters of water - 2 cups of ash and 1 teaspoon of table salt. For 1 m2 - 10 l.

To prevent heart rot carry out foliar feeding with boric acid: 2 g per 10 liters of water.

To increase sugar content 2-3 times per season, water the beets with a solution of table salt - 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water.

1-2 times per season, beets are fed with a solution microelements: 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

ZUCCHOK, PATISSON

During fruiting, 2-3 leaves are removed from the middle of the bush - for better illumination and ventilation. Regularly remove diseased, old leaves lying on the ground.

Why do ovaries rot?? Most likely, the female flowers were not pollinated. Or there were sudden changes in temperature. Or they watered the bushes with cold water. Or the ovaries were affected by blossom end rot.

Decide which plants you will take fruits from for summer consumption and canning, and which ones you will leave for “winter” fruits. WITH "summer" From plants, the fruits are removed as often as possible, without allowing them to outgrow; the signal for harvesting is the wilted corolla of the flower. From such plants you can collect more than 20 greens.

On "winter" The plants are allowed to produce 4-5 fruits. When they ripen, they are removed for winter storage, cut off along with the stalk.

First feeding- before flowering (per 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska). Or for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. ideal spoons (1 liter per plant).

During flowering: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of ash and 1 tbsp. feeder's spoon, 1 liter of fertilizer is used per plant.

During fruiting: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska and 2-3 tbsp. giant spoons, 2 liters per plant.

Additionally carry out 2 foliar feedings with an interval of 10-15 days (per 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of urea or ideal). For one plant - 0.5 l.

TURNIP

Turnips are best grown on fertile sandy loams and loams, where they are especially sweet. Straw manure or feces should not be used as fertilizer. Has a good effect on growth and productivity wood ash. By neutralizing the acidity of the soil, it protects plants from clubroot disease and partially provides potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and microelements. Turnip is very responsive for boron fertilizers Therefore, foliar fertilizing with boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out twice per season.

First thinning done when two true leaves are formed, second- 10-15 days after the first one. During final thinning, the distance between plants should be 6-8 cm.

Requires moisture throughout the growing season very high.

In the conditions of the Middle Volga region, turnips are sown for the first time at the end of April (for consumption in June). The next sowing date (for winter storage) is chosen so that the root crops ripen before frost - June 10-20.

CELERY

The need for celery is very high in nitrogen- leaf rosette grows well. Phosphorus accelerates the ripening of plants and improves their quality. Potash fertilizers promote the accumulation of sugars and starch, increase the frost resistance of the plant. In addition, calcium and magnesium must be added to the soil for celery.

On soils with low fertility, it is advisable to apply rotted manure or compost - 6-8 kg/m2, nitrogen fertilizers - 3-5 g/m2, phosphorus - 10 g/m2, potassium - 5 g/m2, manganese - 2 g/m2. Organic and phosphorus are added for autumn digging, the rest - half for digging, half - in fertilizing.

When planting celery seedlings it is important not to bury the outlet- the apical bud should be at ground level. The soil around the roots is compacted.

In 30 days after planting celery - root feeding (for 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of giant and 1 teaspoon of urea), use 3-4 liters per 1 m 2.

In the middle of July carefully rake the soil away from the root crops and wipe with a rag. After 15 minutes they spud. Water only after 2-3 days. Here's a tip for celery root.

From midsummer the lower leaves of root celery are torn off, exposing the base of the stem.

Thick, long, juicy petioles can be obtained only when the plant grows rapidly throughout the entire growing season. If the development of celery is delayed at one time or another, do not expect a good harvest. Therefore, we must try to create suitable conditions - after each watering, loosen the soil so that air can flow freely to the roots, water and feed on time and, of course, weed.

Root celery is afraid of frost and reacts to the spring cold with an arrow-peduncle. It tolerates autumn cold well. To play it safe, it is better to plant root celery seedlings at the end of May. Any slowdown in growth provokes bolting.

CARROT

Carrots produce normal marketable root crops when the number of plants per 1 m of row is from 80 to 100 pieces (depending on soil fertility, with row spacing of 30-35 cm). The sparseness of crops leads to the formation of branched root crops, many of which crack.

Another reason for this phenomenon is excess nitrogen nutrition at the stage of leaf rosette formation and root growth.

First feeding- a month after emergence, use 5 liters of solution per 1 m2. Second feeding- after 15-18 days, use 7-8 liters of solution per 1 m2. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska.

In August carrots are fed with potassium fertilizer: per 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon.

To obtain large carrots, use a crowbar to make a cone in the ground, fill it with humus, plant 3 seeds, then leave one of the best sprouts.

You can feed carrots with other “dishes”. First feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate, 1.5 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of urea. Second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, a glass of pigeon (chicken) droppings solution and 1 teaspoon of complex mineral fertilizer.

Good result gives foliar fertilizing with boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water).

Will scare you away carrot fly spraying crops with infusion of onion peels. To do this, pour boiling water over 400 g of husk, close the lid tightly, leave for a day and filter. The onion peels remaining after infusion can be spread in the grooves between the plants.

When thinning, a strong smell of carrots appears and a carrot fly flies towards it. Therefore, before thinning, the crops are sprayed with the following solution: per 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ground black or red pepper and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap. For 1 m 2 of crops, 1 liter of solution is consumed.

PUMPKIN

Pumpkin plants when they are 3-5 true leaves, hill up to form additional roots. Watering important during the growth of stems, leaves and fruits; during flowering they are limited.

Leave on the plant 2-3 side lashes, they are pinched after the formation of 2-5 ovaries, 5-7 leaves are left above each fruit.

During flowering plants are fed once every 2 weeks. In 10 liters of water dilute 1 liter of mullein, 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. 8 liters of fertilizer are poured under 1 plant. Or 200 g of bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Pumpkin loves foliar fertilizing with urea (15 g per 10 l of water) or superphosphate (40 g per 10 l of water).

RADISH

Radish moisture-loving, therefore, on sandy soils it gives a good harvest only with watering.

Varieties intended for summer consumption are sown in late April-early May, for winter - 10-20 June. Radishes are sown on ridges in one row with a distance between rows of 60 cm or on beds in 3 rows with a distance between rows of 35 cm.

Thickening- one of the reasons for flowering and poor quality of root crops. First thinning carried out in the phase of two true leaves, second- in the phase of four true leaves. During the first thinning, a distance of 8-10 cm is left between plants in the row, and for the second - 15-20 cm.

It is better to feed radishes with mineral fertilizers. First feeding- when 3-4 true leaves appear, the second - 20 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 20 g of urea, 60 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride.

POTATO

Application half-rotted manure or compost (40-50 kg per 10 m2) on loamy and sandy loam soils almost doubles the tuber yield.

It is forbidden apply fresh manure under the potatoes (both in autumn and spring). This leads to plant diseases and reduces the yield and quality of tubers.

First feeding applied at the beginning of budding, before loosening or hilling. Mineral fertilizers are scattered between rows at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stems, and then embedded in the ground during hilling. For each bush, 3-6 g of superphosphate, 3-4 g of potassium chloride or sulfate, 2-3 g of urea or ammonium nitrate are consumed. If nitrophoska is used for feeding, it is taken at the rate of 10-12 g per bush.

From organic fertilizers, humus is suitable - two handfuls for each bush. Wood ash is added at the rate of one or two handfuls mixed with the same amount of soil. Dry bird droppings - 10-15 g per bush.

Second feeding with weak development of the above-ground mass, it is carried out in the early flowering phase mainly with potassium fertilizers (30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 10 m 2). If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, the flesh of the tubers darkens. After feeding, the plants are hilled up.

Immediately after the second feeding plants are dusted with ash. For them this is additional feeding, but for the beetle it is obvious discomfort.

To accelerate the outflow of nutrients from the leaves into the tubers and thereby increase the yield, in the budding and flowering phase, as well as three weeks before harvesting, use foliar feeding. Even a one-time spraying of plants at the final stage increases the tuber yield by 7-11%, and starch content by 0.8-1.0%. To do this, infuse 20 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water for 1-2 days (mixing well periodically). It will take 1 liter of solution to process 10 m2 of potato plantation.

If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, foliar fertilizing is carried out during the period of budding and flowering of potatoes (20 g of urea per 10 liters of water). At the same time, the tops are sprayed with solutions of microelements.

In dry and hot weather You cannot deeply loosen the soil and hill up the plants - this causes loss of moisture and overheating of the soil. In such conditions, when loosening, a little soil from the rows is raked up to each plant.

Mowing the aboveground mass 7-10 days before harvesting (no later and no earlier) helps to increase the resistance of tubers to damage to the skin, prevents the spread of diseases, especially late blight.

Preventive spraying plants against late blight begin at the beginning of budding, repeating after 7-10 days. Plants are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (2-10 g per 10 liters of water). You can use copper-containing preparations.

PEPPER, EGGPLANT

In cold weather pepper and eggplant you can't water, as the soil cools and the functioning of the root system and leaf apparatus deteriorates.

During flowering and setting between waterings, refreshing watering is carried out on the fruits (5-10 liters of water per 1 m2) to create increased relative air humidity, since at low humidity the flowers fall off.

It is better to loosen the rows after watering or rain. Starting from the second loosening, the plants are hilled.

If peppers are grown in the greenhouse, then when the plant reaches a height of 20-25 cm, remove the top main stem. Pinched plants quickly begin to branch and form a crop. You should not pinch peppers in open ground., this technique delays the growing season.

Insufficiently complete pollination of flowers can cause the appearance of non-standard (crooked) fruits. To prevent this, you need to shake the plants in hot, sunny, calm weather.

Lack of moisture in the soil and high air temperatures cause lignification of the stems, falling of buds and leaves of both pepper and eggplant.

In open areas, it is necessary to protect pepper and eggplant plantings from the wind with the help of curtains - plantings of tall crops that are planted in advance around the bed (beets, beans, chard, leeks).

Since the root system of pepper is located in the top layer of soil, loosening should be shallow (3-5 cm) and accompanied by mandatory hilling.

Do not apply fresh manure to peppers and eggplants; this can cause the development of vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering.

Young seedlings of pepper and eggplant, planted in open ground, cannot withstand low temperatures above zero (2-3"C), but in the fall, fruit-bearing plants can withstand frosts down to -5"C.

Feeding. During flowering: per 100 liters of water - 5-6 kg of finely chopped nettle, 1 bucket of mullein, 10 tbsp. spoons (heaped) of ash. For 1 plant - 1 liter. The fertilizer is fermented in a barrel for a week.

During fruiting The plants are given two feedings. First: per 100 liters of water - 0.5 buckets of chicken manure, 2 cups of nitroammophoska. For 1 plant - 1 liter. Or per 100 liters of water - 10 tbsp. spoons of Signora Tomato, for 1 plant - 1 liter.

Second feeding- 12 days after the first: per 100 liters of water - 1 bucket of mullein, 1/4 bucket of bird droppings, 1 glass of urea. For 1 m2 - 5-6 liters of solution. Or per 100 liters of water - 0.5 liters of Ideal, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters.

From time to time you need to sprinkle the soil with ash: 1-2 cups per 1 m2.

Another option for feeding eggplant. First feeding carried out 10-15 days after planting seedlings: per 10 liters of water - 40-

50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of urea, 15-20 g of potassium salt.

Second feeding carried out 20 days after the first, while the doses of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are increased by 1.5-2 times.

Third feeding- at the beginning of fruiting: per 10 liters of water - 60-80 g of urea, superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. One watering can (10 l) is consumed per 5 m2. After each feeding, the plants must be watered with clean water to avoid burns from fertilizers.

CUCUMBER

Oat root secretions have a detrimental effect on a number of soil pathogens. In early spring, 100-150 g of oats are sown per 1 m2 and, when the seedlings reach a height of 15-20 cm, the bed intended for cucumbers is dug up, embedding the oat plants in the soil. You can sow oats in the fall, after harvesting the cucumber vines.

Dill helps increase cucumber yield.

Onions and radishes planted near cucumber and tomato plantings repel spider mites.

Onions and garlic will protect the cucumber from bacteriosis. As they grow, the arrows must be cut so that the phytoncides are released more strongly.

Never plant cucumbers next to roses - ants will drag aphids from roses to cucumbers.

When growing cucumbers in curtains, very good conditions are created for growth and development. Plants enter the fruiting season 3-5 days earlier. In addition, you can additionally obtain a crop of canopy crops, the best of which are corn, dill and sunflower.

Cucumber shoots appear on days 5-7. But if the temperature is low or sowing is too early, they may appear only on day 15-20.

The bitterness of the fruit depends on the variety and growing conditions. More of the bitter substance cucurbitacin accumulates in varieties with a dark green color, closer to the base. Cucumbers become bitter when grown during short-term droughts, on sunny, hot days, or when there is a lack of nutrients in the soil. In these cases, fruit growth slows down, the ripening period lengthens and, as a result, more cucurbitacin accumulates.

At the beginning of the growing season, cucumber absorbs nitrogen more intensively than other elements, then the consumption of potassium increases (at this time the vines grow rapidly), then more nitrogen is consumed again, which is associated with new growth of shoots and the onset of fruiting. The optimal ratio of the nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in cucumber plants is 2:1:3.

As the plants grow, the roots of the cucumber become exposed; they need to be covered with fresh, moistened soil. The lower node of the stem is also planted. Adding moist soil promotes the formation of additional roots.

If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the cucumber leaves turn pale green, then turn yellow and fall off. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become dark green with a purple tint and turn black when they die. A lack of potassium in the soil is indicated by a border along the edges of the leaves, first pale green, then brown or brownish-brown, and brown spots in the middle of the leaf. Slow, weakened growth, drooping and dying of growth points indicate a lack of calcium. The disappearance of the green color of the leaves, the appearance of yellow spots between the leaf veins, then browning and dying are signs of a lack of magnesium in the soil.

With a lack of iron, the tips of the shoots are affected, the leaves become pale green, then turn yellow, but do not die. Yellowing of the leaves is noted with a lack of magnesium, and darkening of the tips of the leaves is a sign of a lack of copper. With boron deficiency, the apical buds die, the leaves fall off, and flowering is inhibited.

It is impossible to leave depressions near the root collar of plants - irrigation water is retained in them, and this leads to cracking of the root collar, causing root rot and plant death.

The ovaries turn yellow and fall off due to the fact that they remain unfertilized. This is due to prolonged, cold and damp weather, when insects do not fly.

Feeding. At the beginning of flowering: for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 1 glass of mushy mullein (or 1 tablespoon of sodium humate).

During fruiting 3 feedings are required. First: for 10 liters of water - 1 glass of mushy chicken droppings and 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska, per 1 m2 - 5 l.

Second- 10-12 days after the first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate (or for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of Fertility). For 1 m2 - 5-6 l.

Third- 12 days after the second: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein or 1 glass of mushy chicken droppings, 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska (or 1 tbsp. Bogatyr). For 1 m2 - 5-10 l. Mullein and chicken droppings can be replaced with sodium humate, Ideal, Breadwinner, Fertility, Giant - 1 tbsp each. spoon.

For root rot: 2 tbsp. spoons of copper sulfate - per 10 liters of water, 1 glass per plant. If the cucumber leaves become prickly and rough after fruiting: 1 tbsp. Dilute a spoonful of urea in 10 liters of water and spray it on the leaves.

TOMATO

During flowering, it is advisable to shake the flower brushes so that the ripe pollen spills out of the anthers and lands on the stigma. It is better to do this daily, in the middle of the day.

If by chance the top breaks off when transplanting tomatoes, the plant will still take root, and the role of the top will be taken over by a side shoot.

When planting overgrown seedlings, plants should be planted at an angle of 30-45° to the ground in the north direction. Then the sun's rays will “raise” it to a vertical position.

Loosen the soil after each watering and rain. In hot, dry weather, loosening helps reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in rainy and cold weather it ensures better gas exchange between air and soil, and reduces the possibility of plants becoming infected with fungal diseases.

Irregular watering of plants in hot summers often leads to blossom end rot.

Tall (indeterminate) varieties are grown with one stem, and in favorable weather - with two. In this case, the second stem is the stepson - a shoot under the first flower cluster. All other shoots - stepchildren - are removed.

Low-growing, early-ripening varieties can be grown without formation, but in rainy years they must be pinched and tied to stakes.

The lower aging leaves are trimmed in a timely manner.

An accidentally thrown cigarette butt near tomato plantings can infect the plants with tobacco mosaic.

When planting seedlings in the ground, before flowering, when the ovaries appear and at the beginning of fruit ripening, it is useful to add potassium permanganate to the water (2 g per 10 liters of water). This will have a good effect on the growth and then on the ripening of the fruit; the tomatoes will turn out to be more sugary and resistant to late blight.

Tall varieties and hybrids are planted according to a pattern of 70x70 cm, medium-growing - 60x60 cm and 50x50 cm, low-growing - 50x40 cm and 50x30 cm.

The shoots are broken out, but under no circumstances are they pulled out, since wounds form on the plant, where fungal infection easily gets into. If the side shoots are large, it is better to remove them with a sharp knife or scissors, leaving a stump 1 cm long, which will not allow a new shoot to form.

The shorter the growing season of a variety or hybrid, the fewer stepsons are left and the denser the plants can be planted.

Tall varieties are not very sensitive to lack of moisture, while low-growing varieties do not tolerate dryness well.

Tomato water needs are highest during the flowering phase, ovary formation and intensive fruit weight gain. Excess water is no less harmful, which often leads to yellowing of leaves and root rot.

Tomato is sensitive to chlorides, so do not fertilize the soil with potassium chloride. It is better to use potassium sulfate or wood ash.

Weak or absent fruit set is a plant reaction to too low or too high temperatures. The reason for the fall of ovaries and flowers may be excess nitrogen in the absence of phosphorus and potassium or boron and manganese. This happens more often in low light conditions.

Deformation of fruits and their cracking are associated with fluctuations in temperature and soil moisture.

When alternating plantings of tomatoes and white cabbage, the latter will have several times fewer leaf-eating pests.

Feeding. 7-10 days after planting in the ground feed the plants with a solution of nitroammophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

3 weeks after planting in the ground dilute 0.5 kg of mullein and 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of nitroammophoska, for each plant - 0.5 liters of solution.

At the beginning of the blooming of the second brush: in 10 liters of water, dilute 0.2 liters of liquid chicken manure, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of double superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate. At the root - 1 l.

Next feeding- during the blooming of the third flower cluster: dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of sodium humate working solution and 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 5 l.

In 12 days: dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of superphosphate. Bucket of fertilizing - for 1 m2.

Last feeding- at the end of July. Dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of nitroammophosphate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when fruits are filling.

So that the fruits are sweet: dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of table salt and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when fruits are filling.

When flowers fall: dissolve 1 teaspoon of boric acid in 10 liters of water; when spraying, use 10 liters of solution per 10 m2.

When the leaves curl: dissolve 2 g of boric acid in 10 liters of water, pour 1 liter of solution under each plant.

Eliminate superphosphate from fertilizing, and increase the dose of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to 30 g per 10 liters of water.

From viral diseases: dissolve 5 g of potassium permanganate and 10-15 g of boric acid in 10 liters of water. For each plant - 1 liter.

If plants are affected by viral diseases, you can try the following remedy: sand a copper wire, pointed on one side, and insert it into the stem of the plant (the length of the wire is 3-4 cm, 2-3 pieces are inserted into the stem).

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the plants and timely add the necessary nutrients to the soil.

If the plants are stunted and have a pale color, the tomato plants need to be fed with a 1:10 solution of mullein.

If the plants “fatten”, they intensively increase the green mass to the detriment of fruit formation, and exclude nitrogen fertilizers from fertilizing.

If the leaves on the underside turn purple, the plants are lacking phosphorus. Excess phosphorus causes yellowing of leaves.

Plants dry out and fruits become variegated in color due to a lack of potassium. When there is an excess of it, dull spots appear on the leaves.

Fruit crops

APPLE TREE

Pollination of flowers occurs with the help of insects, among which the first place is occupied by the honey bee. It pollinates up to 95% of flowers.

Low-active forms of lime(lime and dolomite flour, calcareous tuff, chalk) can be applied to the soil along with manure, peat and compost, and also mixed or composted with organic fertilizers. Nitrogen is not lost from manure. Burnt or slaked lime, burnt dolomite, cement dust, oil shale ash applied separately from organic fertilizers. Do not mix lime with phosphate rock, otherwise the solubility of phosphate rock and, consequently, its effectiveness decreases. The apple tree grows well in deeply cultivated soils. Even when loosening a 45 cm layer of soil with the application of fertilizers, young trees develop a deeper root system in the first years. When applying mineral fertilizers to planting holes, it is necessary to avoid their direct contact with the roots, since potassium kills the roots of established plants. Contact roots with nitrogen fertilizers also dangerous. High-quality compost, semi-rotted manure or humus are used as organic fertilizers. Fresh manure is detrimental to seedlings, as it forms a large amount of ammonia gas.

Fertilizers and application doses in the hole under the apple tree: organic - either 20-25 kg of compost, or 20-25 kg of humus, or 20-25 kg of rotted manure; phosphorus - either 150-200 g of superphosphate, or 75-100 g of double superphosphate, or 450-600 g of phosphate rock; potassium - either 60-80 g of potassium chloride, or 80-110 g of potassium sulfate, or 500 g of wood ash.

Adult apple tree per day spends 200-250 liters of water. A tree every day in winter loses 250-400 g of water.

On loams organic fertilizers are applied once every 3-5 years, on the lungs(sandy) - annually or every 1-2 years (on sandy loam). Peat bogs Fertilize in the same way as light soils, but at half the rate.

Organic, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers applied both in winter and autumn. But it is better to fertilize the soil with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the fall (September). During the autumn-winter period, they manage to penetrate more deeply than when applied in the spring (chlorine is washed out of potassium chloride over the winter).

Nitrogen or complete mineral fertilizers(if phosphorus and potassium were not introduced in the fall) apply in the spring.

When trees are weakened, their poor growth resorts to feeding with slurry in the first half of the growing season ( June). Feeding at a later date may interfere with the ripening of wood.

Increase calcium content in soil possible by liming. The most effective use is cement dust, oil shale ash, and phosphogypsum.

Fighting the codling moth: cook compote from dried apples (you can dry the carrion in advance), hang containers with compote in the crown of the tree during the summer of the codling moth.

Fighting aphids:

1. 
   2 tbsp. Dissolve spoons of ammonia in 10 liters of water, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of shampoo or liquid soap. Spray trees when aphids appear.


2. 
   Pass 300 g of fresh citrus peels (or 30 g of dry ones) through a meat grinder and add 1 liter of water. Leave for 5-6 days, dilute with water 1:10 before use.


3. 
   Chop the garlic and add water (1:1), leave for 10 days in a dark place. When spraying 10 liters of water, it is enough to take 20 g of infusion.


4. 
   Green (1.5 kg) or dry (700 g) potato tops pour 10 liters of water, leave for 4 hours or boil over low heat for 15 minutes. The infusion or decoction is used only in freshly prepared form.


5. 
   Pour 200 g of onion peel into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 5 days, strain, spray the affected plants 3 times with an interval of 5 days.

CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY

Lack of moisture retards the growth of bushes, and during the period of formation and filling of berries leads to their crushing and shedding. It is especially important to water blackcurrant bushes during intensive growth and formation of ovaries (early June) and during the period of berry filling (third ten days of June - first ten days of July). The soil is moistened to the depth of the root layer, approximately 30-40 cm. The approximate water consumption is 20-30 liters per 1 m 2.

June. Berry bushes, especially on light sandy soils, are fed with slurry (1 liter per 1 bucket of water) or infusion of bird droppings (0.5 liter per 1 bucket of water). 1 bucket is used for 2-3 bushes. Or, under each fruiting bush, add 10-15 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate. It is better to combine fertilizing with watering.

Additionally carry out foliar feeding by spraying plants with microfertilizers. 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 2-3 g of zinc sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Or treat the plants with a special set of microelements, which are now sold in all specialized stores.

Late September-early October apply organic (10-15 kg per bush) and mineral fertilizers: phosphorus (80-120 g of superphosphate), potassium (30-50 g of potassium chloride).

You can also use this feeding option.

After flowering. Dissolve 3 matchboxes of urea (without a slide) in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of fertilizer into the center of the bush.

2-3 weeks after flowering. 1 tbsp. Dilute a spoonful of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. 1 bucket of solution is poured into the center of the bush.

When pouring berries. Dissolve 2 matchboxes (without a slide) of potassium fertilizer in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of solution into the center of the gooseberry bush. For currants, dissolve 1 matchbox of urea in 10 liters of water. Currants are sensitive to chlorine, so potassium chloride is added to them only in the fall. A good potassium fertilizer for currants is wood ash and potassium sulfate.

Red gall aphid. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of tobacco dust, 50 g of laundry soap. Leave for 2 days, strain, add 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. Sprinkle red currants 2-3 times during the season.

RASPBERRIES

Raspberry flowers do not require cross-pollination, but placing several varieties on a plot helps to obtain more stable, abundant harvests.

In April, when the soil is still saturated with moisture, 1 feeding of bushes with nitrogen fertilizers(10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea per 1 m2). At the same time they spend first spring loosening of the soil- by 8-10 cm. Subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm (the root system of raspberries is located close to the surface and with deeper loosening it can be damaged). Final loosening- after harvesting. One of the most important measures for caring for raspberries is mulching the soil. Use dry peat (10-15 cm or 7-8 cm thick) or straw (10-15 cm). In autumn, mulch material is incorporated into the soil.

During the formation of ovaries The bushes are fed with mineral fertilizers (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium salt per 1 m of row). As a top dressing, you can use slurry diluted with water 1:5, per 1 bush - 0.5 liters of top dressing solution.

Raspberries need watering Without sufficient moisture, it reduces the yield several times.

After harvest remove fruit-bearing shoots, leaving 5-7 of the best ones, tie them to a wire and shorten them to a height of 150 cm.

To increase fruiting in the first years after planting, carry out June pinching. For shoots reaching a height of 60-90 cm, a five-centimeter top is cut off. The underlying buds wake up, and the shoot branches, due to which the number of buds on the shoot as a whole increases. The next year the plants bear fruit very abundantly.

in autumn humus (4-5 kg), phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (6-8 g per 1 m2) are added for deep loosening

CHERRY

In early spring When loosening, nitrogen fertilizers are applied - 50-70 g of urea per 1 m2. Good results are achieved by fertilizing with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers. before flowering and at the beginning of active shoot growth. To do this, manure is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:9 and applied at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m 2 of tree trunk circle. Liquid mineral fertilizers are prepared as follows: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrate (calcium or potassium) is dissolved in 10 liters of water and applied to 1 m 2 of soil surface under the tree crown. The soil is immediately sprinkled with peat to reduce moisture loss due to evaporation.

For setting a large number of fruits and better laying of fruit buds(next year's harvest) it is useful to repeat liquid root feeding with organic or mineral fertilizers. Gives good results foliar feeding- spraying the crown with a urea solution (50 g per 10 liters of water). Should be planted in the garden several varieties of cherries. For good cross pollination, especially when choosing self-sterile varieties, it is important that the pollinated varieties and pollinators are close in terms of flowering time, time of fruiting, fruit ripening time and plant longevity. Cherries are pollinated by insects, pollination proceeds normally if the pollinated variety is located at a distance of no more than 50 m from the pollinating variety. Useful for cherries foliar fertilizing with nitrogen: the first time 10 days after flowering, the second time 2 weeks after the first. The urea consumption in this case is 40-50 g per 10 liters of water.

STRAWBERRY

Planting strawberries several times a season loosen. This ensures good air access to plant roots, enhances microbiological processes in the soil, and retains moisture in it. In the middle of the row spacing, the loosening depth should be 8-10 cm, closer to the rows - 4-5 cm. Starting from 2 years after planting, strawberries can be fed early spring and after harvest: 1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash per 1 bucket of solution. They feed as follows: make grooves 4-5 cm deep on both sides of the strawberry rows and apply a fertilizer solution - 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After applying the fertilizer, the grooves are covered with earth and watered. You can feed strawberries according to the following scheme.

Beginning of the growing season. Dissolve a pinch of boric acid, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium permanganate, and 40 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water. Water from a watering can directly over the leaves. Or dissolve 3 g of potassium permanganate, 1/2 teaspoon of iodine, 2 g of boric acid, 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 1/2 cup of ash. Apply 1 liter of solution to each bush. Or dissolve 1 teaspoon of microelements in 10 liters of water, for each bush - 0.5 liters of solution.

Beginning of flowering and ovary growth. Sprinkle the plants with a solution of zinc sulfate - 1-2 g per 10 liters of water.

Flower bud formation (August). Spray the plants with a urea solution - 1 matchbox per 10 liters of water.

Fighting weevilsm. Dilute 0.5 liters of vinegar in 5 liters of water, sprinkle the plants, repeat several times.