If you are building your own Vacation home or a comfortable dacha, then the project must provide for all the nuances that will allow you to live in the building for a long time and without problems. One of these seemingly invisible but important elements of a house’s design is the roof drainage. It not only protects the walls of the house, but also protects the blind areas covering the foundation from damage, and also prevents erosion of the soil on the site. A roof drain can easily be built with your own hands with minimal technological skills. "How is it installed , You can read in our article.”

How to build a roof drain?

The lower edge of the roof of a private house is located at quite high altitude. Rainwater falling off it during bad weather can seriously damage the coatings near the walls of the house over a long period of operation. The drainage and drainage system is calculated immediately when designing the roof. If previously, to create such a system it was necessary to use specific skills, for example, knowledge of working with sheet metal, now online stores and construction supermarkets offer a huge assortment ready-made solutions For self-construction spillway They consist of elements various configurations, which are easy to assemble, like a construction set.

However, if you have already built a house, but for some reason it does not have a roof drain, then it can be installed in an already residential building. But if in the classic version the brackets for fastening the drainage structures should be placed under the waterproofing, then in the already finished building this process is extremely difficult.

Materials for making a roof drain

Modern industry offers a wide selection of materials for the manufacture of spillway structures.

The most economical solution would be to use galvanized steel. The disadvantage of this material is its high susceptibility to corrosion at the joints. In addition, the joints of galvanized gutters themselves may have insufficient tightness.

Gutter made of galvanized metal

More modern solution is the use metal drainage elements coated with polymer material. Such structures feel great in both heat and cold. An important advantage of their use is the rich range of colors.

Also, the roof drainage system can be completely created from polymer materials . It is recommended to use such structures if there is a roof made of flexible tiles. The composition of the polymer roofing material includes hard particles that are gradually washed away by rainwater and can damage the metal drain. The plastic spillway has a long service life and is lightweight. This makes them easier to transport and install. The disadvantage of such structures is their weak stability when low temperatures. Plastic drains are especially susceptible to destruction in the cold if water remains in them.

Once you have decided on the gutter material for your roof, it is time to think about the most appropriate gutter shape. The best performance during operation is demonstrated by drainage gutters with pronounced stiffening ribs located along the edges.

Regarding the size of the drainage gutter, in order to prevent the system from overflowing with water and splashing out, we can recommend the following:

• for roof drainage small house or a garage, a gutter with a cross-section of 7-12 cm and drainpipes with a diameter of 5-7 cm will be sufficient;
• if you are installing a drain in a cottage, then the cross-section of the gutter should be 12-20 cm, and the cross-section of the drainpipes should be 7-10 cm.

We calculate the amount of building materials

Since ready-made elements are used in the construction of roof drainage systems, the main task of the house owner will be to calculate the required number of ready-made modules. To build a roof drain, use the following: structural elements:

• drainpipes;
• drainage gutters;
• plugs for gutters installed on the ends without a drain;
• funnels that connect the gutter and drainpipe;
• adapters and couplings, corner fittings for both gutters and pipes;
• brackets for fastening elements of the drainage system;
• clamps for fixing the spillway structure to the brackets;
• Filter grids and inspection hatches may also be included in the drainage system.

In order to determine the amount of materials, you need to draw up a project and a drawing. Drawing up a drawing future design starts with measuring the perimeter of your home's roof.

The length of the drainage gutters under the roof must exceed the perimeter of the building by more than 5%. This is because gutters must have a slope to allow rainwater to flow freely. When measuring the perimeter, be sure to take into account protrusions and infrastructure elements, e.g. chimneys passing along the wall.

For every 10 meters of gutter length, it is advisable to install one drainage funnel.

Attached to each drainage funnel drainpipe. The length of the drainpipe matches the height of the walls of the house. It is advisable to equip the lower end of the drainpipes with a curved elbow to divert the collected water. rainwater as far as possible from the foundation. A reasonable solution would be to lay water from the drainpipes into the drainage pipes.

Drainage gutters are fixed on a mounting bracket that goes directly under the roof. To prevent deformation of the gutters, brackets are strengthened every meter of the steel structure and every half meter on the drainage gutters made of plastic material. Approximately every meter there are fastening elements for drainpipes.

Necessary tools for installing a roof drainage system

Before you begin installing a roof drainage system, familiarize yourself with how to install and prepare the following necessary tools:

• electric screwdriver;
• a set of screws and dowels (depending on the material used to make the walls of the house);
• hacksaw or angle grinder (grinder);
• measuring instrument (tape and plumb line);
• portable ladder;
• sealant (if the drainage structure does not have pre-installed rubber seals).

The process of installing a roof drainage system

Regardless of the material used to make the drainage system on the roof of the house, the algorithm for its installation looks approximately the same. Differences are observed in the methods of connecting drainage structural elements. So, gutters and pipes are connected to each other locking devices with rubber sealing gaskets. The plastic drainage system is connected through rubber gaskets, or the elements are directly glued to each other.

Step 1. Installation of a roof drainage system begins from the top point. Initially, the location of the brackets is marked so that the drainage gutter has a slope along its entire length of at least 3 cm per linear meter. The brackets are fixed directly to the rafters or to the front board. Additional fasteners are placed at the junctions of gutters and connections between gutters and downpipes. The last bracket is usually located 15 centimeters from the edge of the wall. First, the outer brackets are attached, taking into account the required slope of the drainage gutter. A string is stretched between them and the attachment points of the remaining brackets are determined by its position.

Step 2. The installation of the drainage system on the brackets is carried out after covering the roof with a roof. If not heavy weight design (when using plastic elements), a system of gutters for each wall is assembled on the ground. If the weight is large, the structure is assembled directly on the brackets. The constituent elements of the gutter are fixed together different ways, determined by the manufacturer depending on the gutter material. It could be lock connection or gluing together structural elements. Plugs are installed on the outer ends of the gutters located at a higher level.

Step 3. At the junction of the drainpipes, holes are formed in the gutters into which drainage funnels are inserted. The edges of the holes are cleaned, and any gaps are sealed with sealant.

Step 4. Fixing brackets for drainpipes are attached to the wall of the house. The distance between the drainpipe and the wall of the house must be at least 3 cm. This distance is maintained to protect the walls from dampness. If there is a protrusion on the wall, it can be avoided using a curved drainpipe elbow. The sections of pipes and elbows are connected to each other by couplings. At a height of about 30 centimeters from the ground, a branch is made in the pipe, directed away from the foundation of the house.

Step 5. To collect rainwater, special containers are installed under drainpipes. Stormwater can also be directed into a storm drainage system - ditches or pipes located near the surface of the earth that will drain it into drainage system for absorption by soil. to discharge rainwater into the ground, it must begin at least one and a half meters from the wall of the house.

Roof drainage system maintenance

At least once a year, preferably after graduation autumn period rains and before the onset of frost, the roof drainage system must be cleaned. With proper installation and regular maintenance The drainage system will serve the owner of the house faithfully for decades, protecting the walls and foundation of the home from excessive dampness.

As you can see, the design and installation of a drainage system from the roof of a house is accessible even to people with minimal technological skills. To learn more about the sequence of work, watch the training video.

Video - Do-it-yourself roof drain

One of the important parts when building a house is drainage. It performs 3 functions:

1. Moisture protection. Due to a properly equipped roof drain with your own hands, precipitation does not flow down the walls onto the blind area, steps and foundation. Protective function is the main criterion for a properly installed drain, because before its invention the entire base could collapse in just 8 years after construction.
2. Decorative function. There will be no stains left on the walls; here the decorative function intersects with the protective one, because moisture destroys walls no worse than the foundation. The beautifully executed roof drains themselves also give the overall picture of the house a complete look.
3. Water collection. Particularly significant for people involved in gardening is that drainage helps collect moisture from precipitation. When finalizing, you can make a tap into a barrel or other container in the immediate vicinity of the garden itself.

In this article

Preparatory work

Material calculation

The 2 main groups of materials for any such structure are metal and polymers.

Metal structures are more expensive, but stronger than plastic ones. In addition, you need to choose a corrosion-resistant material. If desired, any composition can be treated with a stainless steel, and then covered with decorative coating, if necessary.

A metal drain can be copper, aluminum, or galvanized steel (made from sheets 1mm thick). Each type has its own advantage. So, a copper drain does not need additional processing, is the highest quality and most durable, but aluminum will be the lightest, and steel will be the cheapest.

Plastic elements will cost even less than any metal, but they have a significant drawback: when the temperature reaches -10 o C, the plastic becomes fragile.

Drawing up a drainage system. System elements

Before installing and assembling the roof drainage system, it is necessary to determine the number and placement of its elements:

Installation recommendations

During the work you should pay attention to some things:

• Use cold welding and rubber seals. For a clearer joint and reliable sealing, these materials are best suited.
• Keep the slope towards the funnel. Even when installing a metal system, some deflections are formed that occur under prolonged exposure natural conditions. Changing the slope of the gutter to the funnel side will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of excess liquid.
• Allow a minimum gap between the gutter and the wall. If the distance between the drain and the wall is more than 50 mm, moisture leaks onto the wall. To avoid this, the fit of the gutter to the roof canopy should be as tight as possible.

Tool preparation

For normal operation without interruptions and attempts to adapt available tools, you will need:

1. Roulette
2. Screwdriver/screwdriver and set of screws
3. Bulgarian saw
4. Thread or marking cord
5. Plumb, level
6. Marker
7. Silicone sealant and rubber seals (or cold welding)
8. Stepladder, ladder, or scaffolding
9. Sandpaper

Pipe installation

Brackets with fastenings

What the system rests on is established first. It would be great if the diagram of the fastenings and the entire drain was previously drawn on paper. To begin with, markings are made taking into account the current slope of the roof. At this point, you need to calculate the degree of inclination of the gutter and mark the start/end points on the eaves. Now everything is connected along the line and the remaining fasteners are installed.

When using metal in the design of gutters, the brackets are spaced in increments of 1 meter, but if plastic roof drains are chosen - 60-80 cm.

Gutters

The gutters are secured to the brackets using self-tapping screws. Also, to eliminate the possibility of the drain twisting due to sunlight, there are additional holders on the mounts. If they are absent, you can solve the problem with several screws or plugs.

Installation of gutters is carried out on the roof or the edge of the rafter system. It is best to install a drainage system before covering the roof with roofing material; if this is not possible, the first option is used. To make it easier to catch the flow of water, when installing gutters, an indent of 1/3 from the pipe cross-section is added. This allows more of the gutter to protrude.

Each meter of length of the drainage system must have its own slope. In general, it is 3-4 mm to ensure an unobstructed flow path for water into the funnel.

To prevent the structure from being torn down by snow or ice, an indentation must be maintained. It is 30mm from the edge of the roof to the top of the gutter.

Pipes

After fixing the main drain elements, install vertical pipes. This leaves a gap between the pipe itself and the funnel, which can be filled using a fastener from the elbow fitting to the pipe location. This creates a smooth transition and aesthetic appearance designs.

To prevent water seepage, you need to secure the elements tightly. Rubber bands, sealing glue, or cold welding are suitable if the system is planned to be made of steel elements. In this case, the rubber band has the advantage of providing mobility to the system due to the thermal gap.

Yoke

To place them evenly, you can mark several lines along the line using a plumb line: 2 clamps are used per meter of pipe. On average, 2-3 holders with additional fastening in the middle.

Guide elbow

It is mounted at the end of the pipe in order to eliminate splashing, as well as adjust the desired direction. The ideal option would be to make a protrusion about 25-35 centimeters from the wall.

Leaf Trap

If there are trees near the house, the leaves of which fall on the roof during the season, then for convenience you can make protection from them. It can serve as a simple construction lattice. When bent, it should form a convexity 1/2 above the level of the gutter, easily fitting into it.

Drainage routes

The drainage system has been installed, all that remains is to decide how to most profitably use the collected water.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all work and setting up the final water drainage, it would be a good idea to invite a specialist. Perhaps some acquaintance who will see from the outside what you did not see. Assessment of outsiders is needed to eliminate undetected deficiencies in order to avoid their development in the future.

Once you are convinced of its reliability, you must not forget about caring for the elements. If the structure is made of metal, check and renew the anti-corrosion coating approximately once a year. It is not difficult and thanks to such care, the drain will last a long time.

The service life of any roof depends on a variety of factors - the quality of the materials used, the approach to calculations, installation technology and external influences. One of these factors is the drainage of water from the roof, which, if not properly installed, regularly exposes the structure to moisture.

A well-designed and correctly assembled roof drainage system is important element roof structure and requires a lot of attention. This article will discuss how to properly drain water from the roof.

Design and types of drainage systems

Structurally, any drainage system consists of a pipe, gutters and drainage funnels. Once in these elements, water from the roof surface is sent to the storm drain, where its impact will no longer harm the building.

There are three circuit diagrams drainage system:

1. Unorganized drainage of rainwater from the roof. This design, which is also called spontaneous, in accordance with its name, ensures independent drainage of water from the roof. A distinctive feature of spontaneous drainage is its simplicity - nothing needs to be installed to ensure drainage. The problem is that the flowing water washes away the building, damages the wall finishing and negatively affects the waterproofing layer.
2. Organized external water drainage from the roof. This is a classic design consisting of a drain pipe, a gutter and several funnels that are connected to a storm drain. As a result of installing an organized external drain, water is collected from all slopes and removed from the roof surface. External drainage is quite simple to install and maintain.
3. Organized internal rain drainage from the roof. The main difference between an internal drain and an external drain is the installation of structural elements in the building itself in such a way that they are not noticeable. As a rule, such a drain is arranged in the case of flat roofs. Installing an internal drain is complicated, and maintaining it will be very difficult, especially if mistakes were made during the installation.

Materials for the manufacture of roof drainage systems

Various materials are used to construct a drainage system, the choice of which directly affects the cost of the structure and its durability. In order for components to perform their assigned duties well, they need sufficient moisture resistance, resistance to temperature changes and a long service life.

In most cases, water drainage from the roof is arranged using the following materials:

1. Cink Steel. Steel is used most often for water drainage. To a large extent, the high popularity is due to the fact that you can select not only ready-made structural elements, but also make them yourself using sheet metal. Galvanized steel meets all the requirements: it has excellent corrosion resistance, can easily withstand the effects of external factors and can easily last more than 15 years. The only drawback of steel products is their heavy weight, which complicates installation and creates large loads on the roof frame.
2. Plastic. Polymer elements are very well suited for arranging a drainage system. Having most of the advantages of steel parts, plastic has a lower cost, much lighter weight and a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose the right color to match the roof. Installing a plastic roof drain is very simple - installation will not cause problems, and all the necessary elements are included in the kit. Quite often, you install a plastic roof drain with your own hands, since the installation process does not cause any difficulties. The biggest disadvantage of polymer products is their poor resistance to significant temperature changes. You can even make a drain from plastic bottles with your own hands, which will save money.
3. Copper. Copper components for drains are primarily characterized by their high cost, so they are used infrequently. However, the high cost is completely justified - copper is completely resistant to moisture and can work for more than a hundred years without any complaints. The main disadvantage of copper parts is the large weight inherent in all metal products, therefore rafter frame and the sheathing will have to be strengthened.

When choosing materials for arranging a drainage system, you need to start from: roofing. It is best to equip a seam roof, as well as roofs made of metal tiles and profile sheets, with a plastic-coated steel drain. In the case of soft roll coverings will be relevant plastic pipes for draining water from the roof, and for copper coating, copper components for drainage are suitable.

Before you choose drain pipes for the roof, you need to calculate their dimensions based on climatic conditions and roof parameters. As practice shows, for small buildings A pipe with a diameter of 50-70 mm and a gutter with a diameter of 70-120 mm are quite suitable.

Installation of pipes and drainage gutter

In order to drain water from the roof, you need to ensure that two factors are met:

• Presence of a slope towards drainage funnels;
• Tightness.

If these factors take place, then when correct installation all components of the catchment system will work correctly.

During installation it is necessary to take into account following rules and follow them:

1. If the drain is heavy, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame at the points of attachment of the drainage elements. The plastic drain can be attached to the eaves, but hardware attached to the rafters.
2. In the gap between the gutter and the rafters, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing. The material is selected individually: it can act as waterproofing polyethylene film, and various bitumen mastics.
3. Drainage elements are installed along the entire perimeter of the roof. The drainage chute is attached with a slight slope towards the drainage funnels.
4. The gutter itself is secured using special brackets. One half of the gutter should be under the roof overhang, and the other should go outside. Such an installation will ensure effective collection of liquid and prevent structural destruction due to collapsed snow masses.
5. Vertical drain risers are attached to the corners of the building. A storm drain is supplied to these points (if there is none, then containers are installed under the drains or a sand and gravel cushion is installed). There should be a distance not exceeding 50 cm between the edge of the drainpipe and the ground.
6. The mounting brackets are installed in increments of about 50-60 cm. If the structure is heavy, the spacing between the fastenings should be reduced even more.

In order for the drainage system to function properly, it must be monitored and regularly maintained. If the installation of drains on the roof was done correctly, then it will only have to be cleaned once a season. During the maintenance process, you need to make sure that there are no leaks, and if they are detected, take corrective measures.

Conclusion

Water is drained from the roof using a drainage system. Competent selection of materials and high-quality installation will allow you to create reliable system capable of performing all its tasks effectively.

Wet walls of the house and a damp foundation will not allow the homeowner to relax. He managed to build a house with his own hands, and he was even more capable of installing a plastic roof drain on his own. There are countless proposals for completing polymer drainage systems, choose what you like. The assembly scheme differs in nuances.

Why is a plastic drain better?

Galvanized steel gutters are being renewed in the old fashioned way on old residential buildings. A prudent homeowner prefers to pay once and not worry about storm drains from the roof for decades. Comparison of the properties of parts made from such various materials not in favor of metal:

• Roof drainage systems made of plastic vary in variety: round, shaped, rectangular;
• Quiet operation of the system;
• Galvanized steel is used in unfavorable conditions for a maximum of 5-10 years, plastic water pipeline - much longer. The production and installation of steel gutters are more expensive than their plastic counterparts;
• Atmospheric precipitation is chemically active, and next to plastic, metal cannot compete. Add a self-tapping screw connection with the inevitable islands of wet debris that catalyze metal corrosion;
• Talk about the strength of metal is unfounded: many years of installation of plastic gutters have proven their durability and suitability. Plastic products are suitable for use in harsh environments;
• The load on the structural elements of the house is reduced due to a significant difference in weight. Makes DIY assembly easier;
• No leaks. The geometry of the plastic parts of the drain eliminates hydraulic flow resistance, the density of the connections is such that installation by yourself will not be difficult.

Video - Gutters:

Preparatory work

Drawing up a project will warn extra expenses. Initially, you need to take measurements and watch training videos on installing a drainage system with your own hands:

• How long will the hanging gutters be?
• How many drainpipes will be needed?

Using these parameters, the number of other fittings that will have to be installed is calculated: corner gutters, corner elbows, plugs for gutters, drainage funnels, drainage bars, gutter holder brackets, pipe holder clamps.

The cross-section of pipes and gutters is determined by the amount of precipitation and the area of ​​the roof of the house. For a roof with an area of ​​up to 200 m2 in central Russia, the throughput will be ensured by installing gutters Ø 100-120 mm and pipes Ø 100 mm, twice large area will serve gutters Ø 180 mm and pipes Ø 100 mm.

The number of drainage funnels, corner elbows and other fittings depends on the number of roof slopes and area: a funnel and a drainpipe are installed per 65 m2 of roof area. For roofs complex configuration you will have to additionally take into account the kinks and corners of the roof.

On long roofs, the maximum distance between the nearest funnels on the gutter cannot be more than 24 m. If it is difficult to make an accurate calculation of components, provide the roof plan to the employees of a specialized store. They will provide assistance in gratitude for the purchase.

Installation of gutters

Do-it-yourself gutters are installed with a slope of 2%. This ensures a reduction of 1.2 cm for each subsequent gutter holder. To ensure smooth drainage from the roof to prevent counter-slope, a simple procedure is carried out: extreme brackets are installed with a given height difference. The rest are displayed along the cord.

The main criterion is the coincidence of the bed levels. The installation step of the brackets is 0.6 m. They are attached directly to the rafters or to the front board. The universal bracket will ensure complete fit and fixation of the roof gutter. Installation is carried out before and after roofing. Extreme top point The gutters are installed 3 cm below the roof slope so that the snow rolls down freely without delay.

The inner edge of the gutter in the bracket is higher than the outer one; when the gutter overflows with a stream of water, the excess will not overflow onto the wall. Roof gutters are installed in such a way that precipitation flows into the center of the gutter. You can do this yourself by placing spacers under the base of the bracket.

Video - Installation of a plastic drain. Video instruction:

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters is done from top to bottom, the tip of the gutter extends 100-200 mm beyond the edge of the bracket. Manufacturers offer 2 types of sealing of fittings connections:

• Rubber gaskets;
• Permanent adhesive connection along the contact area.

To connect adjacent parts, lowerings are provided. Assembly units are inserted until they stop. The second type of assembly is less promising: replacing a failed roof drainage element with your own hands and making a replacement while preserving the rest will not be easy and time-consuming. Rubber gaskets must be replaced over time.

Gutters plastic systems Roof gutters are available in lengths of 4 and 3 m. Plastic is easy to cut. But try to make as few joints as possible. Burrs are removed with a file or knife to improve contact when connecting. The assembly of gutters with adhesive joints for one-story buildings with a small perimeter can be done entirely at the bottom. For long ones, use lashes of an acceptable length, which will speed up installation. Installation of gutters will require the participation of assistants.

Video - Checking plastic drainage for strength:

Installation of funnels

Water inlet funnels are either attached directly to the wall, being both a connecting element of the gutters and an additional support, or they are hung on the gutter. The option of attaching a funnel does not weaken the structure, although you will have to cut out or drill a drain hole in the gutter with your own hands. The adhesive connection will restore the strength of the roof drainage section - the funnel body will become stiffening ribs for the gutter.

Funnels are a tense drainage unit. It is recommended to equip the drain holes with waste collection devices: spiders and nets. Leaves in the drain elbow will lead to the accumulation of ice, blocking the passage with a possible rupture of the drain pipe. You will achieve a greater effect by covering the surface of the gutters with a protective mesh.

Installation of drainpipes

To connect drainpipes to the wall with your own hands, elbows with an angle of 135 degrees are used to make the flow smooth. Support on the wall is carried out using clamp-holders with an installation step of 2 m, but not less than 2 pieces.

It is advisable to leave a gap of 3 cm between the wall and the pipe. Based on this condition, connecting sections of pipes between the elbows are cut, taking into account the addition of the lengths of the joints inside and outside the fittings. The lower end of the pipe is equipped with a water sump, the purpose of which is to divert the flow of water further from the wall.

In houses for permanent residence It is customary to equip the main elements of plastic roof drains for ice removal with a heating electric cable: gutters, funnels and downpipes.

Drainage water removal

Directing water from the gutters into the soil around the house is half the battle. Think about installing a storm drain. Part of the water mass will rush towards the foundation and basement. Over time, depressions will appear in the blind area where the water flow falls. Making accessible drainage with your own hands is a labor-intensive but doable task.

Let's consider local drainage and collection of rain and melt water in a private household. This operation is performed in three ways:

• Open - trenching;
• Closed - laying drainage pipes under a layer of soil;
• Gravel is a combined method with backfilling the drainage system with crushed stone.

On a site with a natural slope, it is economically feasible to use the open method. Place small open concrete trays around the perimeter, or deepen grated ones, using a natural slope to divert the runoff of atmospheric precipitation and melt water to a safe distance.

Used on flat land closed method with the laying of an underground pipeline with a uniform slope. Failure to comply with this condition will result in rupture of the walls during freezing, stagnation, fraught with putrid odors. A water receiver-storage tank of sufficient volume is filled with crushed stone or supplied concrete ring with lid.

Do-it-yourself metal roof gutters, which every homeowner should be able to produce, are most often purchased in finished form. Due to the fact that at present there are enough products available in specialized stores a wide range of products different manufacturers, problems with selecting the most suitable option for a particular case, as a rule, do not arise.

However, the purchase of a drainage structure should be approached very seriously, since it should be chosen not only by appearance, including color scheme, but also in terms of the level of complexity of the assembly. The system should be as simple and understandable as possible, especially in cases where the work will be done independently. The assembly diagram of the system components is supplied by the manufacturer with the drain kits, so before purchasing the product, you must request it from the seller and carefully study the instructions. If everything in the assembly manual is clear and understandable, and the appearance of the structure fits perfectly with a specific facade, then in this case the kit can be purchased.

Functions of drainage systems

Drainage systems for the roof of a house are an obligatory component of the roof lining, and their installation should never be postponed “for later.” The walls of a house whose roof is not equipped with a properly installed roof will lose their respectable appearance within the first year of operation. Atmospheric precipitation falling on Decoration Materials walls can negate all the efforts expended on the design of the facade. Moreover, not only water from the roof will fall onto the surface, but also all the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the roof during the absence of rain and is washed away by water flows.

Moisture, especially during the period of prolonged autumn rains, when the walls do not have time to dry out, will negatively affect any finishing materials, and may also penetrate through them into the walls, which is fraught with the appearance of mold and dampness in the living rooms of the house, in the basement and basements .

In addition, water flowing from the roof inevitably penetrates into the structure, which, if overmoistened, may well lose its design strength, which leads to the onset of erosion processes, the appearance of cracks and further destruction.

Therefore, in order to avoid these numerous problems and extra costs, you should not skimp on a high-quality roof water drainage system. Moreover, it is better to purchase a drainage system that includes not only an above-ground part, but also an underground part that drains water into drainage channels or into a storm sewer system.

The water entering the pipes or gutters of storm sewers can be directed towards the garden or garden, collecting it in storage collectors and usefully using it for watering plants. Thus, two problems are solved at once - preserving the walls from moisture and having a replenished supply of water for irrigation needs.

The conclusion is obvious: the importance of choosing the right drainage system and its high-quality installation for reliable drainage of water from residential and commercial buildings - it is difficult to overestimate.

We never forget storm sewer and a drainage system!

Gutters on the roof of a house usually become an integral part common system drainage of excess water on the site. Special publications on our portal tell in detail about self-creation and about the correct organization.

Types of drainage systems

All drainage systems can be divided into several types according to the material and method of their manufacture. In addition, kits from different manufacturers may differ in parts and technological methods assembly and fastening. To understand the possible differences, it is worth considering them in more detail.

All sets of drainage systems can be divided into those that are made independently, and those that are produced in an industrial environment using specialized equipment. To find out which of them are more practical, let's try to identify all their advantages and disadvantages.

Homemade gutters

Installation of a metal drainage system

Now, having understood the nuances associated with the design of the drainage system, we can move on to a detailed consideration installation work.

First of all, you need to decide on the tools that will be required for installation. Here you can notice that if you purchase quality system factory-made, the manufacturer includes some accessories for installation work in the kit.

So, it is necessary to have the following tools and materials on hand:

• Hacksaw for metal.
• Pliers for bending brackets.
• Building level.
• Plumb line with a long cord.
• Silicone Grease.
• Adjustable pliers.
• Marker.

An example of installing a metal drain "Galeco" - step by step

Having prepared everything you need, you can begin installing the drainage system. An example of installation work with a set of factory-produced parts (Galeco, a well-known company in this field) is shown in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	Installation of this system is carried out before laying the roofing material. In this case, the brackets are fixed to the cornice board connecting the rafter legs. The first step is to mark the location of the brackets and funnels for the drainpipes. As mentioned above, the brackets are placed with an optimal pitch of 600 mm.
	The first bracket is mounted with a distance of 100÷150 mm from the edge of the cornice board. It is important to immediately determine the location of the funnel, since additional brackets must be secured on each side, at a distance of 150 mm.
	In addition, it is necessary to immediately determine the location of the junction of the two gutter elements, since in this area additional holders will also be required, which are installed at the same distance from the connecting parts as in the case of installing funnels.
	Next, the slope angle (a) of the slope is determined, focusing on which the bracket leg is bent, since it must fit tightly to the cornice board. It is clear that not everyone has the special tool shown in the illustration for these purposes. You can do it simpler - prepare a template with the appropriate angle from the board in advance, and then bend the brackets using it.
	The next step, at the beginning and end of the slope, is to attach two brackets to the cornice. Usually, two or three self-tapping screws are sufficient to secure these elements.
	When attaching hook holders, it is necessary to take into account the need to position them along a line with a certain slope, since the gutter installed in the brackets must be located at an angle towards the funnel. The slope should be 3 mm for each linear meter of the gutter.
	Then, a cord is pulled between the two brackets fixed at the edges - it will be easy to navigate along it, securing the intermediate gutter holders to ensure the required slope.
	When securing the brackets, it is necessary to strictly observe the slope specified by the cord and control it using building level. To install it between the brackets, you can additionally use a wooden strip, which will create an even and rigid base for the level, which will make measurements more accurate. Work continues until then? until all brackets along the eaves line are installed.
	The next step is to install a metal one on top of the fixed brackets on the cornice board. cornice strip or, as it is often called differently, a dropper. This structural element serves to remove condensation moisture from under the roof into the gutter. After fixing the drip, on top of it, on truss structure is laid waterproofing membrane, on which condensation forms. It, flowing down the waterproofing, will fall onto the eaves strip and then into the gutter.
	The gutter is preliminarily laid on the brackets and the exact location where the funnel will be installed is determined on it. Then you need to remove the gutter, lay it on the work table and attach the drainpipe to the marked place. Then the pipe is outlined with a marker.
	Next, using a hacksaw for metal, guided by the line drawn with a marker, an opening is cut out for water drainage. The cut is made at an angle, approximately as shown in the illustration.
	In the finished cutout of the gutter, bends of two opposite edges must be made. The edges are folded outward using adjustable pliers. The bends will help drain water from the gutter into the funnel.
	A funnel is installed under the finished hole and fixed to the gutter using special ears that bend over the edges of the gutter. To perform such bends, the manufacturer has provided a special rod that comes complete with the drainage system.
	In factory-made structures, the brackets also have special “ears” that bend at the edge of the gutter, fixing it in a given position.
	If the drain is mounted on a building, the eaves of which form an internal (or external) corner, then it must also be provided in the drainage system. And before proceeding to the installation of two even sections of the gutter, such a corner element is immediately secured to one of them using a connecting fastener.
	Joining two drainage elements will not be difficult, since the connecting parts are mounted and secured quite easily. The connector is installed under the edge of the gutter at half its width.
	The second section of the gutter is laid on the second half of the connecting piece. The next step is to clamp the protruding parts of the connector, also using adjustable pliers, onto the gutter along the edge located closer to the wall of the building.
	By outside two gutters are fixed together with a special latch provided on the connecting element. It must be remembered that the distance between the gutters should not exceed 2 mm, since, despite the seal on the connector, leakage may still occur at the junction if there is a large gap.
	Special plugs are installed along the edges of the gutters, which are also secured with special “ears” that bend over the edges of this drainage tray.
	Now you can connect the drain pipe risers to the prepared gutter with funnels installed on it.
	If it is necessary to bring the pipe closer to the wall, an elbow is first mounted into the funnel. When it is installed, the distance at which the mounting clamps should be removed from the wall will be determined. To install them, holes for dowels are drilled in the wall.
	With a large building height, the distance between the clamp brackets can reach a maximum of 1800 mm, however, as experience shows, the optimal installation step is still 1000 mm. By choosing the latter option, you can be sure of the reliability and strength of the pipes.
	When installing wall brackets, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that they can be located at a distance of a maximum of 150 mm from the joint seam of individual pipe sections.
	The pipe is secured in the clamps using hardware (in this case, bolts with a head in the form of a loop with an eye) that are screwed into the perforated “ears” of the clamp. To screw in such hardware, the kit includes a special wrench that easily copes with this task.
	The presented design of the drainage system provides for the installation of a hidden drainage system, which can be connected to a storm sewer or run away from the house, for example, towards the garden, where a drainage recess or hole is installed. Thus, the drainpipe will connect directly to the rainwater inlet. How storm water inlets and pipes extending from them are installed correctly is described in detail in the article about storm drainage, the link to which has already been given above.
	A special panel is mounted on top of the blind area - a rainwater inlet cover with a hole into which the lower edge of the drainpipe will fit. Moreover, markings were prudently made on this panel to make it possible to cut out pipes of several different diameters.
	Carved by required diameter the part is removed from the panel, and only after that the lower part of the pipe is mounted on the riser. It is, first of all, inserted into the panel hole, and then connected to the upper section of the riser and secured in a clamp.
	When completed, at the bottom of the wall, the structure looks as shown in the illustration. By choosing this option for installing a drain, you can avoid the penetration of dampness into the walls of the house, since the bulk of the water falling from the roof slopes will be immediately diverted from the base and foundation of the building.
	When the drainage system is installed, they move on to roofing work. As you know, the installation of roofing most often starts from the eaves, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its overlap with the gutter. So, with light rain, water should slowly flow down the roof into the gutter. In case of heavy rain, intense streams of water should not rush through the gutter, flowing off the roof or already entering its channel. Therefore, before carrying out the final fastening of the roofing material, it is advisable to conduct an experiment. To do this, water is poured onto the stuck area of ​​the roof at varying intensities and monitored to see how accurately it falls into the water receiving tray. And the approximate recommended parameters for the location of the roof overhang above the gutter are shown in the illustration.
	When finished, the roof with a drainage system installed along the eaves and walls should work as shown in this figure. Arrows marked on the roof show the correct flow of water, and signs located along the gutter demonstrate the direction of flow in the gutter towards the drainage funnel.

As can be seen from the instructions presented, installing a drainage system is not an overly complicated procedure, and is considered quite accessible for independent execution, without inviting a team of specialists. The main thing in this process– this is the accuracy of calculations and step-by-step, with strict adherence to all technological operations, installation of all necessary structural elements.

To conclude the publication, here is another example of installing a drainage system, with detailed explanations and recommendations from the master?

Video: Self-installation of a drainage system