Today you can quite often find homemade circular saws. A circular saw can be made with your own hands if the craftsman has at least minimal skills in working with metal. To make the structure you will also need some equipment. All work must be done carefully.

Figure 1. Schematic of a stationary circular saw.

It is advisable to make such a device yourself if any of the following materials are available: pieces of steel angle, rectangular profile pipe, engine or grinder. If you don’t have a motor, you can purchase one at the construction market.

Manual circular design

You can easily make a manual circular saw with your own hands if you have a grinder available. You will need to make the following simple devices: a sliding stop and an axial handle.

Required parts:

1. Metal corner.
2. Washers.
3. Bolts.
4. Nuts.
5. A strip of metal.
6. Bulgarian.
7. Metal pipe or rod.

Making the stop and preparing the necessary holes

The sliding stop is made of several pieces of small metal angle, which are located on both sides of the working element. It is worth noting that the working element is a disk with teeth, which is used instead of an abrasive wheel. The gap on each side should be approximately 3-4 mm. The horizontal edges of the corners will need to be rounded at the bottom so that they do not cling to the workpiece being cut. The corners will need to be connected with cross braces at the front and back. To do this, it is best to use bolts and nuts; a gap can be made by using a pack of washers.

You will need to put a metal strip clamp on the tool body. The screw tie of the clamp should be located at the bottom of the structure. You will need to rigidly fasten a double-folded strip of tin or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear stop bolt for sliding. The stop must be secured to the rear of the structure. The clamp with the rear thrust post can form a single structure, but the thickness of the metal strip in this case should be approximately 1-1.5 mm. By moving the washers that provide clearance, you can achieve equal gaps between the working element and the side parts of the stop.

In the tool gearbox housing you will need to drill 2-4 threaded holes for small fasteners. The first step is to disassemble the gearbox and identify places where it is possible to drill. The holes are intended to make it possible to fix a homemade axial handle. If a standard side handle of an angle grinder is used, then making an even cut will be quite difficult even for a master with extensive experience.

Making a handle and adjusting rod

The axial handle is made of a pipe or rod in the form of a horn, which is directed upward. In this case, a transverse bracket of small width can be used. The ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox do not need to be spilled. In these parts you will need to drill holes for fasteners. If the fastening ends spill, the handle will bend from the effort during operation.

If the handle has the shape of a horn, then its far part must be splashed in a horizontal plane and a hole drilled in it for an axis of 4-5 mm with a margin. If the handle is a bracket, then in the holes located in the gearbox you will need to install a piece of rod or tube sticking forward. The end of the element needs to be splashed and a hole drilled in it. There should be a small distance between the rod and the bracket - approximately 100 mm.

Next, you will need to take a piece of 4-5 mm steel rod, which will be used as an adjustment rod. One part of it needs to be bent in the form of a loop, slightly splashed and a hole drilled for the front thrust bolt. By placing washers on the front of the stop, you need to achieve a uniform gap width along the entire length of the structure. If you use a 6 mm rod, you will need to prepare several washers of small thickness.

The back of the rod needs to be threaded. The element will fit into the hole on the handle. You need to first screw one nut onto it, and upon completion of assembly - the second. You will need to loosen and tighten the nuts one by one to be able to adjust the cutting depth. At this stage, the manual circular saw will be ready for use.

Tabletop small circular

A manual circular saw can easily be converted into a small tabletop design.

To do this, you need to make a U-shaped frame from a 15-20 mm pipe or rod and attach a lever. The lower part of the bed must be bent along the cutting direction until horizontal, and then secured to the table with self-tapping screws. To make the structure stable, you can additionally install slopes.

You will need to put a rotating lever made of a T-shaped pipe on the horizontal cross member.

The transverse part of the element will need to be cut into two parts. After the structure is installed, the elements will need to be secured with clamps. To the end of the vertical part, you need to tighten the hand saw that was made with a clamp.

A similar design can also be used as a cutting device, for which you will need to install a standard cutting wheel in the grinder. However, in this case, the thickness of the cut will not exceed 70-80 mm, everything will depend on the diameter of the working element. To be able to process thick lumber, you will need a full-fledged circular saw.

Full-fledged stationary circular saw

You can make circulars of this type only if you have a design diagram. The difference between a stationary and tabletop circular saw is the height of the bed. A design diagram of this type is shown in Fig. 1.

The first element to be made is the table. It is covered with tin or galvanized sheet. The wood will rub against the wood or plastic, causing a small dent to appear. In this case, it will not be possible to make a high-quality cut. The transverse connections of the table are made from a metal corner of 70-80 mm.

The working element should not protrude above the base of the table by more than 1/3 of the diameter - otherwise the saw will be dangerous. Therefore, if you need to cut a 100 mm beam, then the diameter of the disc should be 350 mm or more. To drive such a disk, a motor with a power of 1 kW or more is required.

The first thing you need to do is compare the power of the purchased engine with your personal needs. For workpieces 150 mm or more, making a circular saw yourself is quite difficult.

A high-quality adjustable stop can be made from a piece of angle 70-80 mm, its length should be 350-400 mm longer than the length of the table. One of the shelves will need to be cut on both sides so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. The back parts need to be curved down. In the lower shelves you will need to drill holes for the threads of fasteners. After this, you will need to put the stop on the table and secure it in the required position with bolts. The stop is set according to a template that is placed between it and the tool disk.

You will need to use ball bearings, which are self-installed. Trunnions with bearings must have covers that can protect them from sawdust.

It is recommended to use a V-belt drive. The engine will fit from an old washing machine. Capacitors can be paper or oil-paper. Other elements will not be able to withstand the reactive power that circulates in the chain.

Making a circular saw yourself is quite simple if you know the technology and have all the necessary elements available.

Primary processing of wooden materials often involves cutting them. To perform this, you can use several types of tools - from manual to electric models. The most effective is the one you can do yourself.

Circular saw design

At the first stage, you should understand the design features and determine the optimal manufacturing scheme. It directly depends on the characteristics of the work performed, the dimensions of the workpiece, and the type of wood. Only after this can a circular saw be made with your own hands.

The main component of the saw is the disk, on the end surface of which the cutting teeth are located. They can differ not only in geometric dimensions, but also in the angle of inclination relative to the plane of the disk. To perform cuts, the design includes an electric motor. It can be connected to the disk directly (via a shaft) or using a torque transmission system. This tool is designed for making longitudinal and transverse cuts; in some models it is possible to make angular cuts relative to the plane of the workpiece.

Before making a circular saw with your own hands, you should select the processing depth. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the equipment classification:

• small - from 40 to 46 mm;
• medium - from 55 to 55 mm;
• large - from 65 to 70 mm;
• professional - from 65 to 140 mm.

For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a small or medium cutting depth. If complex processing of materials is required, a hand-held circular saw will be required. To make vertical cuts, you can make a homemade sawmill.

For woodworking, it is necessary to choose discs with a positive sharpening angle. Otherwise, the wood fibers will not be cut, but rather torn.

Designing a table for a circular saw

The main component of the future design is a table made by yourself. It will house the power unit, cutting tool, control unit and additional components to perform the work.

There are two fundamentally different schemes for constructing a table. In the first case, it is designed to work with a hand saw. The main task of the support frame is to fix the workpiece and the ability to change the direction of cuts. Most often, wooden components are used to make a table with your own hands - chipboard sheets, slats and timber.

The sawmill is one of the types of circular saws. The difference lies in the lower location of the disk. In this case, the table serves as a bed. It houses the power unit, there is a disk mounting unit, as well as a control system.

During design, the following points must be considered:

• electric motor power. For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a power density of up to 800 W;
• depth of cut. Depends on the geometric parameters of the disk;
• rotation frequency. To form an even color, this characteristic must be at least 1600 rpm;
• location of the control unit. It should be as far away from the disk as possible.

The dimensions of the homemade design depend on the size of the parts being processed. To make a manual sawmill, it is recommended to use a metal sheet as a tabletop. Additionally, stiffening ribs are mounted at its base.

When choosing a factory model of a saw to complete a table made by yourself, you should provide for the possibility of mounting it at the bottom of the table top. To do this, you will need to make an additional transition mounting block.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

Drawing up a manufacturing scheme depends on the actual availability of consumables. Most attention needs to be paid to the design of the table. In addition to functionality, it must be stable and withstand maximum pressure without changing its position.

First you need to make a tabletop with your own hands. To do this, markings are made on the sheet material. It is best to take the tool and mark the cutout locations based on its dimensions. Using a router, a recess is made for mounting the tool. Then you need to install additional components:

• support for workpieces. This is a wooden strip that is attached to the tabletop. Its position can be changed relative to the disk;
• grooves for support. They are milled onto the surface of the tabletop;
• yardstick. It is installed at the leading edge of the disk. Necessary for forming blanks of a certain width and length;
• clamps. They are an additional component. With their help, the part is rigidly fixed on the table for processing its surface with hand tools.

After this, according to the actual dimensions of the tabletop, it is necessary to make support legs. To do this, you can use 40*40 mm wooden beams or steel corners. To improve stability, stiffening ribs are attached between the legs. The saw control unit should be located near the workplace. An RCD and fuses must be installed in case the maximum load of the electric motor is exceeded.

For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine is time saving and work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a strong table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small-sized workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the operator’s safety. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.

You won't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal angle (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.

Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

What to make a table for a circular saw from?

The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheet. It is permissible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture-resistant plywood. Galvanized sheet metal is placed on top of the plywood.

The main condition is that the material should not crack from vibrations., have a smooth surface and do not allow deflections under a weight of at least 50 kg. If the tabletop cracks or warps, the circular disk will jam.

Universal homemade table for a circular saw and router. I recommend watching this video

This will lead to injury and damage to the workpiece. The use of popular materials OSB and chipboard is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations and can collapse at the most crucial moment.

There are two options for making a working groove for a circular disk:

1. You can cut a groove.
2. or place two halves of the tabletop at a distance from each other.

A stationary circular saw is a machine that should be in the workshop of every craftsman who works with wood. With its help, you can quickly and effortlessly saw a board, cut a workpiece of the required size, or cut firewood.

A home craftsman simply must acquire such a machine. It is not necessary to buy it; a homemade circular saw is guaranteed to cope with the volume of work in a home workshop, and will cost a significantly less amount.

Circular saw device

Being a truly useful tool, the circular saw has a fairly simple design. Its main components:

• bed – frame on which the main units are mounted;
• tabletop with a slot for a disk;
• engine with rotation transmission system;
• cutting tool, disc with teeth.

Optionally, the device can be supplemented with a pusher, which ensures progressive movement of the workpiece towards the disk, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the cutting depth.

The principle of operation of a circular saw (circular saw) is that the rotation of the electric motor shaft is transmitted to the cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disk is located below the level of the tabletop, only a segment of it is removed from it. The workpiece is brought to the rotating disk, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even cut.

A simple circular saw from a grinder or circular saw

An angle grinder (grinder) is one of the most popular home craftsman tools; with its help it is easy to cut metal and clean welds. In addition, using a wood disc instead of a standard abrasive disc, the grinder can be turned into a hand-held circular saw (it is also called a parquet saw), and by making a frame with a table, it can be turned into a stationary circular saw.

Required accessories

To work you will need:

• multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
• switch and wire;
• countersunk head bolts;
• screws;
• wooden block 40x40 mm.

You also need to prepare a drill or screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver, pliers, ruler and pencil. Using these tools you will have to make a circular saw with your own hands.

Of course, you must not forget the grinder itself or the hand-held circular saw. At the first stage, it will help to cut the material, and then it will take its place as the working body of the circular saw.

Sequencing

The first step is to make the body of the circular. Thick plywood is perfect for this; you can use any pressed wood boards. You will need to cut four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. They are used to assemble a box with a square 80 x 80 cm at the base. For ease of assembly and reliability of the structure, four bars are installed in the corners.

The resulting box is closed on top with a tabletop. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some sheet material with a laminated coating. This guarantees the durability of the machine and ensures ease of use of the homemade circular saw.

A cut is made in the tabletop to allow the disk to come out, and holes are drilled on the sides for attaching the tool.

The grinder must be securely fixed under the tabletop. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for fastening is that it must securely hold the angle grinder without allowing it to move.

The simplest fastening may look like this: two metal squares, a grinder is fixed between them with a steel clamp.

Two holes are drilled in the upper shelves of the angles holding the angle grinder. The structure is secured from below to the tabletop using countersunk bolts. All that remains is to block the power button and connect the angle grinder via an external switch.

In the same way, you can make your own circular saw from a circular saw. In this case, the work is noticeably simplified due to the fact that there is no need to invent a fastening. It is enough to make a cutout for the disk, drill holes along the holes of the plate with a hand-held circular saw.

Miniature machine made from a washing machine engine

The circular is distinguished by its extreme simplicity and availability of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps its only expensive part is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor, which ensures cutting of thick wood of any species, but in a home workshop you can limit yourself to less power.

Note! To cut boards of medium thickness, it is enough to make your own circular table driven by a washing machine motor.

This design has a number of advantages. An engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive; moreover, a similar unit can probably be found in a home craftsman’s household. Connecting this motor is not particularly difficult; there is no need to look for circuit diagrams or do soldering. With all this, the power of such a unit is quite sufficient for most types of work.

The machine diagram can be simplified as much as possible by eliminating the belt drive. In this embodiment, the cutting tool will be mounted directly on the motor shaft. The base of the desktop mini-machine will be a frame assembled from a block with a cross-section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a corner or profile pipe.

Part of the body of an old TV, coated chipboard, is ideal as a stand (tabletop) for a circular table. As practice shows, this part is quite durable, and thanks to the varnish coating, it does not prevent the workpiece from sliding.

Using a jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made in the tabletop perpendicular to the cutout for the disk. A movable square will slide along them, playing the role of a side stop. It will help you make an even cut, if necessary, at a given angle.

Stationary machine

Those who plan to get serious about woodworking should think about making a full-fledged stationary circular saw. This should be a separate unit installed on a workbench, equipped with a powerful motor, with the ability to quickly replace the disk. Making such a circular with your own hands will take time, but it will definitely pay for itself.

Despite the apparent simplicity of this device, before starting work it is worth creating a drawing of the machine. This will allow you to clearly see the future unit and choose its optimal configuration.

bed

The basis of any machine is the bed, the frame on which all the main parts are mounted. The frame of the circular saw must be stable and reliable, which is why it is made of metal. It is preferable to use a profile pipe or a thick-walled angle. Welding is used to connect parts. If a collapsible structure is planned, a bolted connection is suitable.

Buying a suitable material will not be difficult; in any specialized metal store you can pick up both pipes and an angle. Those who want to save money can be advised to contact scrap metal buyers. You can buy the same thing from them, only cheaper.

Tabletop

The best material for making the tabletop of a professional circular table is metal. Steel and aluminum-based alloys are excellent. For a budget option, you can limit yourself to thick multi-layer plywood covered with sheet iron. In any case, the surface of the tabletop must be smooth, resistant to friction and not bend under a weight of up to 50 kg.

A groove is made in the tabletop for the disk. It can be done in two ways. You can make a cut in a single sheet, or you can assemble a tabletop from two halves. The second method is preferable for a metal tabletop, which is difficult to cut into at home.

If desired, you can make a sawing machine for work outside the workshop; for this it is enough to provide the possibility of installing a low-power gasoline engine; it can be removable.

Rotation transmission

The optimal drive for a circular saw is a V-belt drive. Two pulleys are used, one on the engine and one on the drive shaft. It's convenient and safe. There is no direct connection between the motor rotor and the disk; if the tool jams, the belt will begin to slip, signaling the need to turn off the power. In addition, using pulleys with several grooves of different diameters, you can adjust the speed of the saw, choosing the optimal mode for different types of wood.

Rotation from the motor rotor is transmitted to the shaft. This is one of the most important parts of the circular. It is unlikely that you will be able to make a shaft yourself; it is better to buy a ready-made one or order it from a turner.

The shaft is mounted on bearings. They must be of a closed type: a circular saw is a sawing place and open ones will not last long.

Machine with pendulum engine suspension

Those who can boast of the ability to work with metal can be advised to make a circular saw with a pendulum engine suspension. The main feature of the device is that the motor, shaft and cutting disc are installed in one common frame. On one side it is hinged to the frame, the second is held in place by a screw with the ability to adjust the height. By changing the length of the screw, you can adjust the height of the disk exiting the tabletop.

This system allows you to adjust the cutting height, as well as use discs of different diameters. If, instead of an adjusting screw, you use a probe placed on the tabletop, you can get a simple copying machine. The feeler gauge will allow you to adjust the cutting depth according to a certain pattern. This fairly simple modification will turn a simple circular saw into a real woodworking machine. With this device you can not only cut the board into the necessary pieces, but also make precise cuts and make various selections.

Circular drawing. Woodworking machines, detailing. Equipment connection diagram

Option one(the circular saw and the jointer are located on the same shaft).

Jointer table;
- frame of the engine platform;
- the rotor of the jointer (three-knife, the width of the processing surface is 260 mm, the processing depth is up to 2 mm) and the circular saw (maximum diameter is 300 mm, the processing depth is 80 mm).

The table adjustment mechanism allows you to adjust the depth of wood processing. The adjustment accuracy is determined using a visual scale.
The rotor is driven by a double V-belt drive from an electric motor with a power of 3 kW (1500 rpm). Technical characteristics and connecting dimensions can be found in the article
The gear ratio of the drive pulley to the driven pulley is 1.5, which increases the rotor speed by 1.5 times.

Option two(circular saw, maximum diameter 200 mm, thickness 1.6 mm, number of teeth 48 pcs.)
Electric motor and pulley from a washing machine.

The thickness of the processed board is 40 mm.
Equipment layout.

Bearing unit.

Option three(circular saw of the second option, you can install a cutting wheel, milling cutter, woodworking head).
Equipment layout.
-working units and mechanisms;

-underframe;

- spindle assembly;

- head fastening.