A wooden house is a separate category of construction. Its smell takes us back to childhood, and the atmosphere that is created inside fills us with comfort and gives us a feeling of calm and tranquility. Log houses are easy to live in, maintain a comfortable climate, and their environmental friendliness is good for health. In order to obtain all these effects upon completion of the building construction process, you need to understand how to properly build a log house and what features it has.

A log house built according to all the rules will become a real fortress for its owners.

Choice of material: rounded log house or planed (chopped) log

All log houses are divided into 2 types of buildings:

the buildings from planed logs, that is, those that were processed manually;

buildings that were built from rounded logs.

In order to understand how to properly build a house from a log, you need to have an idea not only of the external difference between the 1st warrant and the 2nd, but also the structural one.

"Wild log house"

The history of architecture tells us that all log houses that were erected before the end of the 19th century were built from a “wild log”. This meant that the future building material was processed manually. The freshly cut log was stripped of its bark, while the bast layer should remain intact. It was he who protected the wood and its deep layers from moisture. This provided the log houses with reliable protection from fungus and mold, and increased their “service life” significantly.

The main feature of the “wild log” house was its bright and expressive shape. Non-cylindered beams gave such individuality. A sawn log tends to taper from bottom to top. After processing the wood with tools, such a difference in diameter still remained. The farther from the end, which was located at the roots, the thicker the log.

Houses made from “wild” logs completely bring their owners closer to nature

A tall tree can be processed and divided into several logs. Sometimes it produces 2 building elements, but the ideal would be to obtain 3 parts.

The classic rule for dividing timber as follows:

1 log – butt. This is the part that is located closer to the roots;

2 log – friend. This is the middle part of the wood;

3 beam - third or top. Accordingly, this is the last part of the log that approached the top.

For the construction of the house, 1 part was used - the butt. The log house in this place was the thickest, had high strength and the smallest change in diameter. And in order to compensate for those differences that remained, the beams were alternated when laying the walls: in one row the butt “looks” in one direction, in the next in the opposite direction.

When laying timber, each top log lies on the previous one with the opposite side

But, despite such opportunities to simplify the construction of a house from chopped wood, you should approach the selection of building materials very carefully. After all, you need to reproduce an even and durable structure from logs of different diameters. And this is not a simple task for them.

The construction technology itself has remained virtually unchanged since those times. Houses are built using the same method: “wild logs” of different diameters are adjusted as close to each other as possible. It should be noted that houses built in this way are classified as elite and differ in price. This is dictated by a certain complexity and labor intensity of the process. After all, after erecting the frame, the house should last from 1 to 2 years. During this period, it will “shrink” in height to 10%. This factor should also be taken into account during design. So, in addition to spending time and effort on selecting building materials, it will take a lot of time and patience to see the result.

The completed house shows the location of the logs in relation to each other.

Rounded log

A rounded log house is a planed log in an industrial environment. On machines, the wood is brought to an ideal state: it becomes smooth and even along its entire length. On special machines, all the necessary grooves for fastening are cut into the timber. In this case, the dimensions are adjusted to the nearest millimeter, which minimizes inconvenience during construction. Building a house using such a log house is similar to assembling a children's construction set.

Rounded logs are made approximately the same size

For all its convenience, a rounded log house also has disadvantages. Ideal evenness in size and smoothness is achieved by removing several levels of wood. During the production process, “useful” layers (sapwood) are also removed, which protect the log from moisture, fungus and mold. Only the mature and hearty central part of the tree remains. It is not protected in any way from external factors. Under such conditions, it is necessary to additionally impregnate the timber with antiseptics, antifungal and anthelmintic drugs. The result is a beautiful and lightweight material for building a house. The downside is the low level of environmental friendliness and, oddly enough, durability.

Walls made of rounded timber look smooth and neater

Selection of material for construction

In order to properly build a house from rounded logs, you need to know how to choose it and which material is more suitable in your region. Coniferous wood is most suitable for log houses. These are trees such as pine, spruce, cedar and larch. But if there are no desired options on the market, you can use oak, ash, aspen and other hardwoods. Spruce and pine are the most affordable in the price category. For this reason, they are the most popular.

Coniferous tree trunks are smoother and easier to process

When choosing this type of building material, the period of the log house is very important. It is necessary to choose timber that was prepared in winter. It is he who has the best moisture resistance indicators.

The region where the tree grows is also important. If possible, choose wood from the northern regions. This material is the most durable. Good options: Baltic pine and Canadian spruce. The option of coniferous wood, which was properly harvested in compliance with all conditions and requirements, from the central regions is also very good.

note the fact that the choice of beam diameter depends not only on the design decision, but also on climatic conditions. The main criterion is the maximum temperature in the winter season.

if it's winter in your region not lower than -20 degrees– you can stop at a diameter of 200 mm;

when it's winter maximum -30 degrees– 220 mm;

at thermometer readings up to -40– choose a log that is at least 240-260 mm or more.

To lay the log frame, special equipment is used, which facilitates the construction of the house

The thickness of the log for building a house in the northern regions must be at least 25 cm

The main parameters of the log and its cuts are indicated in the table

It is also worth noting that by choosing a beam with a slightly larger diameter than that recommended according to the climate zone, it perfectly compensates for temperature changes. The main thing is not to choose a material less than specified. Despite the fact that the house will be insulated by laying a jute or flax-jute gasket between the logs, it will not be able to provide the comfortable temperature that a log of the required size can provide.

Additional criteria, which you need to pay attention to when choosing a log house:

quality log yellow or dark yellow;

on the cut there should be no stains;

good material core dark shade and occupies ¾ of the cut;

OK, when bitches are absent, and if they are present, they should fit tightly without gaps. The opposite picture indicates a damaged core;

best ringing for a log - ringing. Try hitting the end with an ax and listen to how it rings;

Availability cracks possible provided that their depth is no more than 1/3 of the log;

the timber should not be twisted: such a log during the construction of a house can only be used for laying the floor - for this it is cut into boards and bars.

The timber is selected according to several criteria; if at least one does not meet the standard, the material is changed to the required one

Construction technology

At first glance, all houses are built the same. But upon careful study of this issue, certain nuances and features of construction in one way or another come to light. Likewise, proper construction of a log house has its own distinctive characteristics.

Video description

Without knowing the technology of building a house, it is easy to make many mistakes. About them in the video:

Foundation

The main and most important element of any building is the foundation. Its depth and character depend on the soil on which the house will stand, on the nature of the wall material and on the number of storeys.

A log house is relatively light in weight. This design quality allows the foundation to be shallow. Almost all options for existing types of foundations are suitable for constructing a log house. Often they make a tape version. For difficult soils, a deep strip foundation or a pile foundation is used. You can also make a slab version.

It is worth noting that any version of the foundation should go 300-400 mm into the ground. After pouring it and completely drying, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing (roofing felt with mastic). This is a very important process despite the fact that the house is made of logs.

If a strip foundation is used, it begins with the arrangement of formwork

Walling

Upon completion of the foundation laying stage, they move on to the main thing - the construction of walls. It is important to know that the first crown (the first row of logs) is never placed directly on the foundation. First, a “backing” board is laid. It is made from linden timber 50-100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. Then they move on to assembling the walls from the rounded log house.

Mortgage crown on a shallow monolithic foundation

The first mortgage crown must be cut from below. Its end should match the width of the backing board. This is necessary so that the house rests firmly on the foundation.

Logs for walls are laid in circles (crowns). First, logs are laid that are parallel to each other. Then the other two sides, and insulation is laid on top. It is attached to the log using a construction stapler and should hang down at the edges by 5 cm.

Then the transverse sides of the house are laid, which will rest on the mortgage crown. And we repeat the “procedure” of assembling the house like a construction set.

The assembly of the house is carried out like a “constructor”: each log has its own place

Each of the logs has its own number, which makes it easy to determine where the beam should be located

Roof installation

A wooden house cannot be left uncovered. After laying the last crown, you must immediately begin installing the roof. When building walls from wood, you don’t have to lay the mauerlat (a special support beam for the rafters), but place the rafters directly on the log. The recommended distance between rafters is 600 mm. It is this gap that will ensure the stability of the roof and reduce the risk of its possible sagging.

Since wood is a “living” material, the rafters must be mounted on sliding supports. Then they lay the waterproofing and then the sheathing. The sheathing pitch depends on the selected roofing material. At the end, the house is “covered” with the chosen finishing material.

After the walls are erected, the assembly of the roof frame begins.

Caulk of a log house

Caulking a house is a separate important stage in its construction. Upon completion of the construction of the walls and roof, it is necessary to caulk all the insulation that was initially laid between the logs inside. To do this, using a special caulking tool, wrap the hanging 5 cm of the gasket downwards, and then push it inside between the cracks of the logs.

Having completed the caulking and roofing, the house is left to settle for a year. After a year, the caulking of the walls must be repeated. Some experts recommend repeating the “procedure” after a year of using the house with the heating on.

The insulation placed between the beams must be hidden

After caulking, the insulation is almost invisible, and there is no draft in the house

Installation of doors, windows, installation of ceilings and floors

Important points when installing doors and windows is that they are installed only after the house has completely settled and only in special casing boxes that are installed in openings in the walls.

Installation of doors and windows is carried out after complete shrinkage of the log house, with the exception of houses made of kiln-dried logs - in this case they can be installed immediately

Such precautions are due to the fact that wood is a “living” building material and will completely shrink in size in another 5-7 years.

The floor is installed on logs that cut into the first, or better yet, the second crown. The mortgage crown must be well ventilated in order to be subject to rotting processes as little as possible.

After installing the entrance doors, windows and laying the floor, you can install a heating system, conduct communications, connect the electrics, as well as install interior doors, slopes, baseboards and install plumbing.

There is no need to finish the walls. After all, the beauty of a log house is not only outside, but also inside. The bas-relief of slightly yellowish walls will fit into almost any interior. The main thing is to correctly emphasize the texture of the wood and complement the design with the necessary accessories. And your dream home is ready!

A log house in the forest over the water is a great place to relax from the bustle of the countryside

The inside of the house does not require additional finishing, and natural wood can complement the stone

One-story house made of hand-cut logs combined with stone trim

The first floor is built of stone, the second - of logs: this combination also looks great

Video description

How a log house can turn out, see this video:

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of rounded logs from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

Conclusion

Despite the apparent simplicity of building houses from prepared rounded logs, there are quite a lot of pitfalls, which can only be avoided by experienced specialists who thoroughly know the technology. Therefore, the construction of a cottage must be entrusted to professionals who will not only do everything quickly and efficiently, but also give a guarantee for their work.

When building a bathhouse yourself, various building materials are used. Their choice is most often determined by their own desire, which does not contradict the available material resources. The most popular building materials for construction are brick and concrete.

Recently, most people have resorted to using cinder blocks. But the priority for the construction of a real Russian bathhouse has always been wooden beams or logs. They have long been famous for the production of substances beneficial to the body that are mixed with steam. Making a log bathhouse with your own hands is a task that almost anyone can do. After all, building a bathhouse from wood beams is much easier than from any other building materials.

Self-construction of a wooden bathhouse

Materials, tools and accessories that will be needed to build a bathhouse:

• logs from various tree species;
• protective mixtures for treating beams (antiseptics);
• boards, concrete mortar, crushed stone and reinforcement for the foundation;
• wooden dowels or iron pins for connecting beams;
• hydro- and heat-insulating materials;
• bitumen, roofing felt and slate;
• extended set of carpentry tools.

First, you need to decide which building material will be used as the basis for the structure. Simple and rounded logs will require more experience when building a bathhouse. Even not the most experienced builder can make a competent log house from wooden beams. In this case, it is enough to follow the instructions described below. In this case, you don’t even need the help of a qualified specialist.

Selection and sorting of wood

Before construction work, you should first select high-quality wood, because the durability of the room depends on this, not to mention the ease of its maintenance. But choosing a good building material does not guarantee proper quality, because it must be properly processed and prepared for use.

If you decide to make a log house from logs, it is advisable to extract them in the winter. It is not recommended to use young wood. In addition, after cutting down the tree, it is best to let it dry for 30-40 days. The logs must rest exactly in the same form in which they were cut down. It is necessary to start processing after the expiration of the period allotted for drying the logs.

Making beams yourself will require careful processing of the logs. First of all, you need to do a complete cleaning of the bark. In order to avoid cracks that may form when the bark is removed, it is necessary to leave strips at both ends of the log 15 cm wide.

Storing wood has some nuances that need to be taken into account:

• logs should be located at a height of 20 cm from the ground surface;
• wood must be stacked in bundles or stacks;
• the interval between logs should be at least 5 cm.

An important process is the selection of logs for the manufacture of a log house.

During sorting, you need to keep only high-quality wood, simultaneously rejecting fragile and unreliable logs.

Inspect the building material being prepared for damage and cracks. If a bath house is built from such logs, it may collapse even at the construction stage, not to mention wear and tear during further use.

Pay attention to small dark blue spots. Their presence indicates that the process of rotting from the inside has begun, which is caused by fungal invasion. You should not take risks and use such logs; it is best to set them aside for heating a sauna stove.

The same should be done with wood that has been eaten from the inside by insects. It will be necessary to ensure that the affected and high-quality logs are kept away from each other, otherwise the infection may spread and damage suitable building materials.

The sauna log used to build the premises must have a smooth and uniform surface. This will save you from problems when laying logs during the construction of the structure. You should not immediately mix them with firewood, since such logs will still be useful for making small parts for door and window openings, as well as for the floor and ceiling.

In the process of constructing a log house, the type of trees that are used as building materials is also important. The lower level is best laid primarily from larch, and subsequent levels can be laid from cedar, pine and spruce logs. This is due to the increased resistance of larch to natural influences; it is more durable and tends to harden over time.

The walls of the bathhouse are more protected from earth moisture, but they require increased thermal insulation properties, so coniferous trees are the best choice for their construction. In addition, they release substances beneficial to the human body, being well saturated with steam.

Foundation of the building

The main convenience of constructing a room for a bathhouse is laying the beams directly on the foundation. This significantly simplifies and shortens construction time.

There are 2 methods of laying a foundation for a log bathhouse: strip and columnar.

The strip method involves arranging formwork along the edges of the entire area of ​​the proposed building, which is subsequently filled with concrete mortar. The level of foundation construction must be at least 0.5 m from the ground. This will help protect the lower level of the log house from moisture and rotting in the future.

The internal area of ​​the base is filled with crushed stone or sand in the form of small ribbons. Laying the lower level of the beams can be carried out only after the concrete solution has completely hardened, that is, after 15-20 days.

The columnar method is more common. In this case, support pillars on a brick base are erected at the corners and edges of the area. The same pillars must be installed indoors, namely in places where load-bearing walls will be located. The interval between the pillars should be at least 150 cm. In some situations, you can expand it to 200 cm, but no more. All support pillars must be reinforced with concrete mortar at the base.

Regardless of the method of laying the foundation, it will need to be strengthened with reinforcement, which increases the reliability and stability of the lower level of the frame.

The main element of ensuring the durability of a structure is waterproofing. For this reason, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material in 2 layers. It is located between the base of the building and the lower level of the log house. First of all, the foundation must be covered with liquid bitumen, on which roofing material is laid. Once the structure has hardened, this procedure must be repeated.

Laying the lower level of the log house

The first level of beams is laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation base. First of all, you need to equip the base with slats that have been pre-treated with protective mixtures. Their thickness should be no more than 1.5 cm, they are placed at intervals of 25-30 cm.

The slats provide reliable protection from moisture and rotting of the lower level of the log house, increasing the durability of the structure. The empty cavity between the slats is filled with heat-insulating material.

The main factor in laying the lower level of a log house is the almost perfect uniformity of building materials, so it is worth choosing the most even beams. Otherwise, further construction of the structure can cause many unwanted problems that will require extra time and effort to correct them. Uniformity should be measured with a building level; assessing the suitability of beams by eye is unacceptable.

For the lower level, you need to make beams taking into account the fact that they will be used as supports, that is, during processing you will need to select the thickest and most durable ones. The generally accepted size of the log house for the lower level is 20 cm in diameter. The remaining bars must have a diameter of at least 15 cm. The length is selected based on the expected area of ​​the room, and all bars must be the same size.

The bathhouse frame should not be laid too tightly, since in the future the beams will settle and compact naturally. There is no need to consolidate the basic level at all. As time passes, it will become compacted under the high pressure of the upper level beams. This also makes it possible to update the lower level without forcibly dismantling the external walls.

At the corner points of connection of the beams, it is necessary to make special notches, which are designed to ensure the reliability of the structure. This process will require precise measurements, which are considered at the log processing stage. Having made the cuts correctly, you need to connect the beams into a single structure and fill the remaining cavity with heat-insulating material between the foundation and the lower level.

The main level of the log house must be treated with protective mixtures on all sides, especially in places adjacent to the foundation. In addition to protective mixtures, it is recommended to apply slightly thickened technical oil to the bars.

After laying the lower level, you can move on to arranging the upper rows.

How to make cuts correctly?

There are a number of methods for strengthening beams at the ends, but the most popular and simplest method is cutting notches.

Logs with excess length require cutting out notches in these places. There are 2 types of notches: one-sided and two-sided. The 1st type is made on the principle of cutting an ordinary bowl into half a tree, and the 2nd is due to cutting out notches of different sizes at both ends, that is, into a fat tail or an okhryap.

If there is no excess, corner cuts are made in the main part of the beams. In this case, you can choose the type of reinforcement without the presence of insert elements (into a paw or into a tenon). If the connection still implies their presence, then you need to use the half-tree method on an insert tenon. The simplest cutting method is the claw method, which will require less time and effort from the builder to arrange the cuts.

Having selected the most suitable corner fastening method, you need to accurately measure all the logs, on the basis of which a template for the notches will be created. After this, you can begin processing the beams. First of all, it is necessary to make transverse cuts to half the diameter of the beams. Following this, you can cut out longitudinal bevels. It is worth considering that processing larch logs is much more difficult, since this species has a high density.

Construction of the upper levels of the log house

The walls of the bathhouse are erected in a certain sequence. The beams are placed, trimmed using a building level and strengthened at the ends. The fastening elements are special wooden dowels or iron pins, which must be driven into the openings provided for them. The size of the openings must match the diameter of the fastening elements.

The interval between openings should be 1-1.5 m. The beams must be drilled through and up to half of the underlying log. Then you need to set aside the upper beam and hammer a pin into the opening of the lower one, the length of which is equal to the height of 2 logs. Before placing the top beam, you will need to lay insulation.

This method is used to lay all other rows, while the top 2 rows do not need to be strengthened. In the future, the upper beams will need to be removed to install the ceiling.

When designing a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the placement of windows and doors. During the construction of the building, small gaps are left in the marked places, which are subsequently cut out, forming openings of the required size.

Upon completion of the construction of the sauna log house, it is necessary to prepare the building for the subsidence period, which lasts about 6 months. To do this, you need to lay 4-5 cm thick boards on the top rows of the log house, which are covered with slate.

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will consider below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include the round shape and degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for a bathhouse. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Timber processing

Step 1. After the consumables have been delivered to you (or you have cut them and delivered them yourself), they need 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparing logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

Let us immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

• strip foundation;
• columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Pouring the foundation

Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Columnar foundation

If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

• brick;
• from asbestos pipes.

Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude above the surface by at least 30 cm.

Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing the base

Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparing tools

To work you will need the following equipment:

We will pay special attention to the last tool - the “line”. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as the frame crown should be edged to ensure a tight fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! “Cup” is the simplest connection option when constructing log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.

Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:

• square dowels;
• round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is completed, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. After raising the walls to the desired height, lay the ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.

Video - Roof made of aspen shingles

Stage 7. Doors and window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

• hammer;
• caulk (made of wood or metal).

Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.

Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video – Caulk of a log house

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.

Step 1. Place wooden beams on the wall framing (we have already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail a solid board deck to the rafters (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

1. Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, joints in the lower rim are not allowed.
2. When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can assemble the logs before drying by placing a sealant between them.
3. It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to buildDIY log house.

Now it is fashionable to talk about the special energy of wood, beneficial effects on humans, etc. But, even if we discard the esotericism and turn to modern science, we can see that the characteristics of moisture absorption, air microfiltration parameters and other properties of wood correspond to the needs of the human body many times better the most advanced materials.

A house made of wood is talked about as “living”, preserving the health of its owners. With certain reservations this is true, but the flip side of such properties is the need for counter-care. A “classic” log house made of natural wood requires much more care and supervision than a brick or concrete one.

To begin with, wood is a material with a high degree of fire hazard. At the same time, various types of fire-prevention impregnations and coatings either noticeably worsen the notorious environmental component and (or) aesthetics of wood, or lead to a noticeable increase in cost. In addition, most fire retardants have a limited service life, usually not exceeding 10-15 years. Then the processing must be repeated.

The tree is also significantly susceptible to biogenic influences:

• rotting caused by various kinds of fungi and algae;
• damage by insects - wood borers (various types of larvae, beetles and worms);
• damage by rodents (mice, rats).

Measures to combat these scourges are as ambiguous as treatment with fire retardants.

Main types of log material

The severity of the problems described above can largely be reduced at the stage of procurement of materials. The question of how to make a log house with your own hands is preceded by the question of what to make it from.

The options are as follows:

• log house made of natural logs;
• log house;
• log house made of factory-processed logs (rounded).

In turn, when deciding how to make a log house from timber, you have to make a choice between ordinary construction timber (1), profiled timber (2) and laminated timber (3).

Beam: construction (1), profiled (2), laminated veneer (3).

From the point of view of convenience and manufacturability of work, timber is noticeably superior to ordinary (natural) logs. A rounded log is fundamentally no different from timber, except, perhaps, for higher expressiveness and originality of building design.

The first, framed crown, in the absence of a foundation, is laid on pads. They are placed under the lower logs of the casing at a distance of about half a meter from the corners of the future log house. Strictly in the horizontal plane, with a deviation of the top edge from the horizontal by no more than 5 mm.

The bottom of the logs lying on the foundation is cut off by 3-5 cm, and a layer is laid between them and the foundation.

Having exposed the longitudinal logs, longitudinal grooves are cut into them for the next row of logs and semicircular recesses - bowls, into which the logs will lie, forming a perpendicular wall. Then perpendicular logs are laid, in which longitudinal grooves and bowls are also selected. The first crown is ready.

The construction of wooden houses is becoming popular again. There are several reasons for this: there is some distrust of modern building materials, and their cost is too high for the average person. But in woodworking, modern technologies have made a real breakthrough, which has significantly reduced the time to build a log house from rounded timber.

In order for the log house to fit tightly to the foundation, it is necessary to begin construction on a prepared foundation.

The fact is that in the recent past, carpenters performed all operations to prepare wood for each crown of a log house independently. It would seem that such a simple matter could not cause any special problems for builders. But this is only apparent simplicity. In reality, carpenters first removed the bark from the round timber, dried it, and only then carefully selected the logs according to thickness and deflections. There was an alternation between the top of the tree and its butt. The entire process was controlled using plumb lines. And there was no need to talk about the tightness of the logs to each other. Each log was measured multiple times, profiled (using an ax) and placed in its original position.

The log house turned out to be reliable, but its construction was carried out too slowly. And now everything has become much simpler: to build a wooden frame, it is not necessary to invite a large number of carpenters.

Set of tools and materials for construction

2-3 people can do all the work in a month; the main thing is to have a clear plan and a list of everything needed. Special processing technology makes the logs cylindrical along their entire length. And a compensation groove is made along the entire length of the log. This wood processing technology already eliminates the need for repeated “adjustment” of logs to each other. Working with such material is a real pleasure. And only a few people, even those without much experience, can make a log house. For construction they will need:

• galvanized scaffolding;
• log house project;
• axes;
• chisels and mallets;
• winch;
• strong cable or rope;
• stepladders or lumber for erecting scaffolding;
• chainsaw;
• drill;
• construction staples;
• building level;
• construction helmet.

The construction of a log house should begin on a prepared foundation. Let them try to convince you that a finished log house from the manufacturer is not inferior to a log house made directly on the foundation, but you should not succumb to such advertising. A transported log house will never fit as tightly to the foundation as the one you build yourself.

Waterproofing and insulation

Before laying the first wreath, 3-4 layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation along the entire perimeter. Waterproofing for a log house is the main condition for its durability. For the first wreath, you initially need to lay down logs that run the length of the house. Simply place the cross log on the first logs of the wreath and make marks on them flush with the edges of the cross log. The transverse log is removed, and a crown (landing) groove needs to be made on the longitudinal logs of the first wreath. His profile may vary. When building a log house, all kinds of connections between logs inside the wreath are used. In the old days, a notch was made on both logs at the junction, and the logs were simply laid down. For reliability, they (the logs) were connected to each other with a wooden pin, and the cavities resulting from poor-quality connections were filled with moss or tow. Currently, such a connection of a log frame wreath is also used, only modern thermal insulation materials are used instead of tow and moss.

Alternative types of connections

Another type of joining logs, which is popularly called the “Finnish angle,” involves profiling the end parts of the logs at certain angles. At the same time, the corners are not always profiled according to the same scheme, so without an accurate diagram (or an experienced construction manager) you should not resort to such a connection. It’s better to come up with something simpler yourself than to ruin the material. The simplest (and most reliable) solution: make a triangular depression in the lower logs (perpendicular to the trunk), and give the upper log a corresponding profile. The knot will be reliable and rigid. This type of knot has been known to carpenters since the times of Peter the Great and was used everywhere.

When laying the first wreath correctly, the transverse log should be exactly half its diameter higher than the longitudinal elements. Well, then the whole process of laying the logs will have to be repeated for each wreath.

The wreaths of the log house must be fastened together using the previously obtained profiling and a longitudinal groove. Most carpenters do not consider this a sufficient measure and use anchors, dowels and ordinary steel brackets for these purposes. The use of brackets allows you to obtain a perfectly even angle during construction and add additional rigidity to the structure.

Window and doorway arrangement

Fastening log wreaths to dowels should be used near window and door openings. Here there is always the possibility that, under the influence of gravity of the entire log house, a certain log may “lead” somewhat to the side. This can be corrected, but you will have to lift the frame, and this can greatly affect its density and integrity. Dowels allow you to build a log house without further modifications. Simply put, the logs near the mentioned openings sit on studs. The distance between the dowels should be from 30 to 40 cm. Additionally, the sections of logs in the openings are also attached to a wooden board. The fastening board is removed immediately before installing the door frame.

Ready-made industrial log houses

In general, building a log house with your own hands is accessible to everyone. But you definitely can’t do without a certain amount of engineering thinking. It is much easier to assemble a log house with your own hands if you have purchased a standard construction project (or an individual project) along with all the components. Then the entire construction of the house will resemble a construction kit from a DIY store. All you have to do is disassemble all the logs according to the markings (to be safe, you can arrange all the parts in a certain order) and feel free to start construction. You don't have to do any profiling or trim parts. Simply assemble the parts according to the included instructions and check the horizontality of each wreath, as well as the verticality of the wall with a building level.

Drying, settling and installation of the roof

After building a log house, there are uncleaned areas of bark left on the logs, which will begin to darken over time, so the log house must be sanded.

A log house cannot be considered finished immediately after its assembly. And it is also not advisable to erect a roof. No matter what humidity your material has, additional drying is inevitable. Shrinkage of the house will occur in any case. It is easier to correct a log house than to eliminate the tilt of the roof, so there is no need to rush with its installation. It is recommended to leave the log house to completely shrink and dry for at least a year. It’s clear that you won’t want to wait that long. Then you need to start building the log house in early spring (the foundation should be ready from the beginning of last fall). In the summer, the log house will shrink a little, you will carry out additional thermal and waterproofing, and by the onset of cold weather you can build a roof. This is exactly how construction was carried out in the old days.

Craftsmen believe that the best wooden house is made not from blanks that have undergone factory processing and received profiling, but from round timber.

You can agree with this opinion, if only because you will do every detail for yourself, so you will not tolerate defects in your work. Every detail will be adjusted so carefully that there is practically no need to even use thermal insulation materials. By the way, moss was used for these purposes (and is still used to this day) not only due to the lack of other materials.

Biologists say that mosses independently resist the appearance of fungal diseases of wood. The symbiosis of wood and moss is also used in construction. The old construction methods and secrets were good in everything. The only bad thing is that building a house this way can take more than one year. And there are almost no craftsmen left who understand a lot about the construction of log houses from round timber. And you personally do not have the strength to comprehend the entire science of construction from beginning to end.

During the construction of a wooden house, it is necessary to remember safety measures and use personal protective equipment.