Making a mallet from wood. A light wooden hammer - a mallet or simply a do-it-yourself mallet. How the tool works

Wooden mallet.



12/11/2014. 8th grade

Topic: Making a mallet for carpentry.

Lesson objectives:

- Introduce students to the product of a mallet for carpentry.

- Strengthen skills in drawing up a work plan for products, reading drawings, technological maps.

Develop cognitive interest, speech correction, through correctional tasks and practical work, enriching vocabulary.

Foster independence, hard work and a culture of communication.

Lesson type : combined.

Equipment : notebook, textbook, workbench, marking tool, sanding paper, hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, technological maps.

Dictionary : mallet - This is a large wooden hammer.

Drilling machine, chisel.

DURING THE CLASSES

1 . Organizing time .

1.Greeting.

2.Checking readiness for the lesson and organization of workplaces

Lesson setting to activate mental activity.

(decipher the proverb)

Teacher: “Without labor there is no good »

2. Updating basic knowledge.

Frontal survey:

    What tools are needed to make a mallet?

    Why can the tapholes become clogged with shavings when planing?

    Why does the quality of all work depend on the markings?

3 . Learning new material.

Teacher: We will get acquainted with the carpenter's tool - a mallet, and also consolidate knowledge on drawing up a plan for practical work of the sequence of making a carpenter's mallet.

Corrective exercise.

Task: Determine the longest and shortest segment.

Summing up the completed task.

Teacher: Guys, what type of wood should the mallets be made from?

(made of hard, sticky wood)

The strength of the workpiece, and therefore the product, depends on the age and type of wood, the location of the cut and the conditions for obtaining and storing the material. Wood species can be easily identified if you know them characteristics. Such as, for example, the presence or absence of a kernel, growth rings, width of sapwood, size of heart-shaped rays, color, smell, texture. For wooden parts of instruments, any hardwood that grows in our area is suitable. But when selecting a workpiece, you must remember that the wood must be damp, without cracks or knots. All carpentry tools are used to process hardwood.

And so the guys use dense, viscous hardwood to make a mallet.

Let's make a plan for making a mallet. Routing.

Plan:

1. Select materials for the head and handle.

2.Mark and cut out the blanks. The blank for the head is taken along the length of 2-3 mallets at once to make planing more convenient.

3. Plane the blank for the head to size.

4. Make a handle.

5.Mark the head, drill blind hole and clean it up with a chisel.

6. Saw off the head from the workpiece and process the ends.

7.Fit the end of the handle to the hole in the head, make a cut, and make a wedge.

8.Place the head onto the handle.

9. Clean the mallet.

Equipment : hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, chisel, sanding paper, product template, routing.

Physical exercise to strengthen the eye muscles.

Starting position: sitting at a desk.

    Close your eyes. -3 seconds.

    Close your eyes tightly. - 5 second.

    Perform frequent blinking - 5 seconds.

Repeat 5-6 times.

Work in a notebook.

Exercise.

    Write down the date and topic of the lesson.

    Write down a work plan.

(Today we will replenish lexicon words, read aloud and write down)

4. Fastening:

1.How is the mallet head connected to the handle?

2. How long is the blank for the mallet head?

3.How do you make holes for the handle in a mallet?

Teacher: (Continued study of the topic)

Based on the consolidated and acquired knowledge, we proceed to practical work for making a mallet

Briefing.

And before starting work, we will repeat the TB with the tool you will have to work with, that is, TB with a hacksaw, TB with a chisel, TB with sanding paper, TB with a drilling machine, TB with a plane.

5 . Practical work.

Ongoing teacher briefing.

Checking the quality of work.

Self-control .

Work analysis, analysis typical mistakes and establishing their causes.

6. Summing up.

I think today's lesson has given you the knowledge to make the basic parts carpentry tools.

And if in later life you choose the profession of a joiner or carpenter, then this knowledge will be useful to you.

Assessing students' work in class.

Cleaning the mind.

Kiyanka - This is a large wooden hammer.

Drilling machine

Chisel

The product itself is an inertia-free mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-selected wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.

First, a blank for the head of the mallet is glued together from the blocks. Plates are laid between the parts bog oak(veneer). The gluing was done at the "joiner" moment.

After the glue has dried and the sander has given it more rectangular shape, using a Forstner cutter, through holes connecting to each other are selected.

We clean them to an oval shape and fill them with lead shot. From below you can see that another flat part is being glued in (exactly the same one will close the cavity on top)

We also glue the ends with plugs. The shape of the blank is first roughly given with a plane, and then finished using a grinder.

The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the “head” it has rectangular section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to protect against splitting, they end with holes.

The handle is placed on glue, wedged and, after final gluing, it is sanded again, this time by hand.

Finishing treatment - coating with AQUATEX balm colorless oil

Learned a real man's rattle! Its weight was 827 grams. When struck, it does not rebound upon impact and, despite its small dimensions, has a large weight.

The feeling when working is approximately like slapping your palm on asphalt or wet clay.

In general, the thing turned out to be not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish.


At the first glance at this tool, its similarity with the long-familiar hammer and even sledgehammer becomes obvious. Indeed, she is a variety of it, but her field of activity is different. The rubber mallet is intended for work involving those materials that require more touching handling.

rubber mallet photo

What is a mallet, types and types

So, the “relative” of the hammer proves its origin with all its appearance.

carpenter's mallet photo

But rubber is distinguished by the fact that it is made from very hard wood, and another mandatory element will be the rubber component. Most often, such a tool will be made of white or black rubber.

  • How is a mallet typically used?

Most often, such a tool is used when working with chisels and chisels. However, when performing carpentry work, it is quite possible collaboration and with other instruments.

  • What types of such “beater” are there?

Depending on the work to be done, the following types of tools are distinguished::

A plumber's mallet, also known as a plumber's hammer

  1. carpenter's mallet;
  • Carpenter's view

If you have to do chiselling work, you can’t think of anything better than such a tool. Take a hammer and chisel to help and start doing the work. It will be very good to knock out the incisors here.

  • Locksmith view

Lathe mallet (lathe hammer) photo

If you have to do classes related to straightening metal, then it is best to use this type of mallet. Moreover, this mallet will differ in appearance from joinery material. Externally, the mechanic's "thresher" is also different from others of its kind - it looks like a rectangle that has a round handle.

  • Turning view

In terms of its functional purpose, it will resemble the previous ones. However, the production of such a tool will take place on a lathe.

What is a rubber mallet used for?

Found a rubber mallet wide application in carpentry and plumbing. This is confirmed by all the activities that are carried out with its help. This includes work on stone and wood, and a variety of roofing works, laying tiles on the sidewalk and even straightening automotive surfaces. It turns out that a mallet is needed wherever a more subtle approach is needed.

  • How is such a tool made?

Practical application of the tool

There are special requirements for its production. For example, the handle should be made of wood such as hornbeam or elm. That is, the rock must be viscous and heavy at the same time. This will make it especially comfortable to work with this type of tool.

The hammer also has its own manufacturing characteristics - here it is important that a handle is inserted into the cone-shaped hole in the very center of the striker (this is the only way to guarantee that it will not fall off during operation).

  • Distinctive features of rubber products

As already noted, working surface The hammer can be made of black and white rubber. It’s better to stick with the light version - then there won’t be any traces left when working. Usually the handle is also different here - it is made of a material that is not afraid of exposure to solvents. And working with such a tool will be especially comfortable and convenient for anyone.

  • Advantages and disadvantages of such “beaters”

With all our undeniable advantages Such tools have a significant drawback - they are not very durable. This means that the material can quickly become unusable from constant use. This is especially true for wooden models, but if we are talking about rubber ones, then there can only be one way out - to use only the highest quality rubber for the manufacture of the head itself.

How to make a mallet with your own hands

By the way, such a tool can be assembled independently. To do this, just follow the following steps:

  1. Prepare your pen.
  2. Prepare material for the head.
  3. Collect layers.
  4. Secure the washer.

More details about everything

  • Making a handle

To make a handle, it would be best to turn the blanks on a lathe - this will allow us to get round section shape (and therefore more comfortable use of this tool in finished form). And in the middle of the handle itself, you can make a protrusion so that our future head has a headdress. If this is not possible, you should wrap several layers of rope around the handle.

  • The important part is the fender

Before you make the head itself, you need to prepare a layout. Concerning source material, it is quite possible to replace rubber with leather. We will cut out circles from it - we will need about 50 of these in order to assemble the “mallet” itself in finished form. If the skin is thin, then it is possible that there will be seventy such layers.

  • How to glue the layers?

In order for the prepared circles to be easily strung onto the handle, you will need to cut a hole of the appropriate diameter in them. Each such piece will need to be strung on a handle and secured with the following PVA glue. When gluing the layers, you will need to try to press them as tightly as possible to each other. Have you strung all the prepared material? Now try to clamp it all in a vice until the glue is completely dry.

  • Let's consolidate the result

To prevent the head we assembled from falling off in the future, we will need to secure a washer on top of everything received. It doesn’t matter what it will be - wooden or metal. The most important thing in this whole process is that the bolt is very secure. You just need to pick it up in a size so that it doesn’t crack.

  • Additional mounts

If dimensions allow, you just need to intercept the protruding edges and secure the head with additional twine. Another option is to drive small nails into the end.

  • What are the advantages of a handmade mallet?

That's all - it's quite possible to use a mallet in your work. You will immediately appreciate all its advantages: it is silent and very practical. During operation, the head will not split into the slightest chips, and the process itself will occur as silently as possible, as if it were with a model made of some other material.

More on the topic:

Mallet. "Clapper." It would seem that it could be simpler. Handle with a blank, stab. But no, there are many types of mallets. The most successful form is the “grenade”. Knock with any end, not like a hammer. And people came up with mallets not just anyhow, but with goals:

Make the carver's work convenient and enjoyable

Eliminate, if possible, occupational diseases of carvers associated with shock loads on the hands and wrists

Increase the service life of both mallets and chisels

For example, a mallet can be wooden and beautiful:

But after a few months of work, all this beauty turns into something like this:

There are also mallets dressed in bronze - so that the blow is more powerful:

Nice mallet! Wonderful! But is it necessary to show what the handles of chisels turn into? Only chisels reinforced with metal rings can withstand the blows of such a sledgehammer...

Or, it would also seem like a good solution - a rubber head.

But.. it bounces off the chisel handle too much when hit...

Mikhail Ilyaev works with Stepan Erzya's mallet, made from Quebracho, the heaviest wood in Argentina:

Mikhail told a funny story. One mischievous neighbor, an old lady, began to complain about him “to the right places” for the constant knocking on the balcony. Mikhail got upset and began to look for compromises. Here's one of them. The rubber pads from the crutches came into play, I put them on the handle with a stretch and the chiselling became more subdued:

What happened next was even more detective! As Ilyaev says, it was as if God heard him: that evil neighbor soon left his house, and in her place settled a DEAF INTELLIGENT OLD WOMAN, with whom Mikhail became friends. Such miracles...

The perfect solution

Forum discussion was used in preparing this article:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php/topic,317.0.html

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing a product such as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones exactly, and whether there is an ideal mallet option.

Rubber mallet – both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products the most different forms. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the “engine” of chisels in the process of cutting parts. This happens as follows: in one hand the master holds a chisel, applying it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, with which he hits the end of the chisel handle, giving it the force necessary for cutting. The lightness of the material allows you to avoid severe hand injuries and is gentle on the instrument itself.

There are two types of mallet in shape - a lathe mallet, which is turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a hammer mallet, which is shaped like a sledgehammer, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first is its convenience, because whatever point of the mallet you hit will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the hand. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, more concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitoring the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not be possible to make such a tool without a special workbench.

Disadvantages of materials - imperfect mallets!

Mallets have a significant drawback - since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use, the working part of such a mallet after some time resembles a real washcloth, no matter what type of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers offer us what they consider to be improved tools. For example, a bronze “casing” is put on a turned mallet.

To some extent, the result is a truly durable tool, but the chisels themselves cease to be so! After several visits, they will look exhausted, not the mallet.. For such a tool you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be the ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the impacts are very gentle on the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - rubber tends to spring back when impacted.

It turns out that there is no ideal mallet? After all, we need to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of shock absorption;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet offered ideal option, but the masters themselves learned how to make it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What options are there for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, then at a minimum you can wrap several layers work area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge to the wood with wood glue at the beginning of the winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the size of the material allows, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bit with a worm clamp or, as a last resort, make a winding of strong twine. You can nail the protruding edges on top to the end of the mallet with small nails or simply cut them off - if you glued the layers well, this option will last quite a long time. However, it is much better to make the mallet entirely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last almost forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather; in the market you can look for scraps from sellers, which they will be happy to give, if not for free, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the handle

It is best to use hard wood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut will also work. If it is possible to turn it on a lathe, then do this to obtain a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a protrusion in the middle of the handle so that there is a stop for the layers of skin. If lathe no, then you can wind several layers of rope for emphasis.

Step 2: Preparing the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the leather of the same size. To begin, make one layout and mark it on a piece of material. required quantity– depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 of these circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the thicker it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: String the Layers

Make a hole in each layer so you can thread the leather onto the handle. We connect each layer with subsequent PVA wood glue, trying to press the layers together as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and lubricated with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until completely dry glue.

Step 4: Attach the washer

To prevent the leather layers from falling off in the future, you need to attach a large washer - metal or wood - to the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to choose optimal size for your pen to prevent it from cracking. That's all! The leather will not shatter into small splinters during operation; impacts actually get stuck in this material and do not create as much noise as when working normally. wooden instrument. Of course, it makes sense to tinker with such a tool when you constantly work with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden hammer mallet is quite suitable!

How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you don’t even need a drawing of a mallet - it’s very simple! Find three fairly large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder types of wood, except for handles, since they split from constant impacts. Adjust all the scraps to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and trace its outline. Then cut the block with a band saw or bow saw so that the resulting two pieces fit tightly to the handle. It is important that the handle and these two trims have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and trim off the excess. Sand thoroughly and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted to direct labor.

  • Look, the handle bracket is chrome.


When the material being processed requires powerful and at the same time soft blows, a wooden hammer comes to the aid of the master. This tool with an unusually shaped striker is often used by joiners, carpenters and many other professions. A mallet, simple in its structure, becomes a real salvation when it is necessary to forcefully influence an object without damaging its surface. Like the models of this instrument, technological processes its manufacture varies. In this article, we will talk about the areas of application of the mallet and share detailed instructions on how to create this hammer from a minimum set of materials.

Area of ​​application of the mallet

The use of a wooden hammer extends to many areas of activity. Most often, a mallet is found in carpentry, where it is used together with a chisel or chisel. The dimensions and weight of tools used in this industry can vary significantly. In addition to the usual hammer design, the mallet can have a turning shape (turned on a machine) and be used in figure cutting on wood.

The tool is no less widespread in the plumbing industry. A mallet is used when it is necessary to remove a jammed part from its place or straighten dents in sheet metal. For such work, a wooden hammer with a striker is used. round shape. Rubber mallets are less effective in plumbing because they have a less precise impact, unlike wooden ones.

Assembly and dismantling of furniture also did not bypass this loyal tool, where it is used to tightly connect parts with decorative surface. A mallet (or a spinning hammer) greatly facilitates the laying of paving slabs when it is necessary to compact the object into adhesive solution. These are not all areas where such a device can be used. If you see the potential of this instrument, then you will find instructions on how to make a mallet with your own hands from wood.

Technological map of the mallet

(adsr)Wooden hammers can have a wide variety of shapes: with rectangular or cylindrical strikers, round, oval and even carved handles. Each master who independently makes an instrument for personal use tries to make it as convenient as possible and at the same time proceeds from his capabilities. Some may have a functional workshop with a workbench, sawmill and router at their disposal, while others only have a saw and a sheet of sandpaper on hand. Below we will present several options for assembly drawings of the mallet product, so that you can accurately determine the design of your future tool and not encounter problems during its manufacture


The technological map for making a mallet presented above describes the most simplest process manufacturing of this device. Instead of a workbench, in the fourth step, you can round the handle using a plane and sanding paper, as indicated in the adjacent instructions. Drilling workbench, can be easily replaced a regular drill.

The above instructions require a lathe, and demonstrate how to make not only a convenient, but also a beautiful tool. For the most accurate resemblance to the sketch, it is better to use templates. This drawing of a mallet (or training card) is aimed at producing the tool in large volumes and in an equipped workshop, but with the right experience it can be repeated at home.


1. Before you begin the process of creating a mallet, it is important to decide what type of wood it will be made from. The best wood For the striker, birch, oak, beech, pear or maple are considered. It is better to make a handle from birch, rowan, maple, ash or elm. To make a mallet you will need only 3 pieces of wood measuring 120x90x18 (for the striker) and one 350x40x18 (for the handle). To work, you will need a wood saw, wood glue, as well as a clamp or vice to hold the product while it dries.


2. Having selected and sawed the material, we clean it with sandpaper.

3. From the diagram above it can be seen that central part the striker is a groove for the handle. Since the width of the handle is 40 mm, and the striker is 120 mm, we need to measure and cut parts 40 mm from the edges, as shown in the photo below.


4. We assemble the parts of the striker, leaving a groove for further fastening the handle. Apply glue, clamp with a clamp or vice and wait for it to dry completely (at least 2 hours).


5. While the firing pin is being glued, you can shape the handle by smoothing out the corners at the grip area. For this, it is most convenient to use a cutter. If you don’t have such a tool in your arsenal, you can trim the edges with an ax or chisel, and then clean them with sandpaper.


6. When the firing pin is completely dry, it is recommended that its side (impact) parts be slightly filed under small angle. In order not to make a mistake in the slope, we simply mark 10 mm from the lower parts of the striker and draw a line to them from upper corners. The point is that the firing pin is not rectangular, but prismatic, as in the photo below.

Wooden mallet.



12/11/2014. 8th grade

Topic: Making a mallet for carpentry.

Lesson objectives:

- Introduce students to the product of a mallet for carpentry.

- Strengthen skills in drawing up a work plan for products, reading drawings, technological maps.

Develop cognitive interest, speech correction, through correctional tasks and practical work, enriching vocabulary.

Foster independence, hard work and a culture of communication.

Lesson type : combined.

Equipment : notebook, textbook, workbench, marking tool, sanding paper, hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, technological maps.

Dictionary : mallet - This is a large wooden hammer.

Drilling machine, chisel.

DURING THE CLASSES

1 . Organizing time .

1.Greeting.

2.Checking readiness for the lesson and organization of workplaces

Lesson setting to activate mental activity.

(decipher the proverb)

Teacher: “Without labor there is no good »

2. Updating basic knowledge.

Frontal survey:

    What tools are needed to make a mallet?

    Why can the tapholes become clogged with shavings when planing?

    Why does the quality of all work depend on the markings?

3 . Learning new material.

Teacher: We will get acquainted with the carpenter's tool - a mallet, and also consolidate knowledge on drawing up a plan for practical work of the sequence of making a carpenter's mallet.

Corrective exercise.

Task: Determine the longest and shortest segment.

Summing up the completed task.

Teacher: Guys, what type of wood should the mallets be made from?

(made of hard, sticky wood)

The strength of the workpiece, and therefore the product, depends on the age and type of wood, the location of the cut and the conditions for obtaining and storing the material. Wood species can be easily identified if you know their characteristic features. Such as, for example, the presence or absence of a kernel, growth rings, width of sapwood, size of heart-shaped rays, color, smell, texture. For wooden parts of instruments, any hardwood that grows in our area is suitable. But when selecting a workpiece, you must remember that the wood must be damp, without cracks or knots. All carpentry tools are used to process hardwood.

And so the guys use dense, viscous hardwood to make a mallet.

Let's make a plan for making a mallet. Routing.

Plan:

1. Select materials for the head and handle.

2.Mark and cut out the blanks. The blank for the head is taken along the length of 2-3 mallets at once to make planing more convenient.

3. Plane the blank for the head to size.

4. Make a handle.

5.Mark the head, drill a blind hole and clean it with a chisel.

6. Saw off the head from the workpiece and process the ends.

7.Fit the end of the handle to the hole in the head, make a cut, and make a wedge.

8.Place the head onto the handle.

9. Clean the mallet.

Equipment : hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, chisel, sanding paper, product template, technological map.

Physical exercise to strengthen the eye muscles.

Starting position: sitting at a desk.

    Close your eyes. -3 seconds.

    Close your eyes tightly. - 5 second.

    Perform frequent blinking - 5 seconds.

Repeat 5-6 times.

Work in a notebook.

Exercise.

    Write down the date and topic of the lesson.

    Write down a work plan.

(Today we will expand our vocabulary of words, read aloud and write down)

4. Fastening:

1.How is the mallet head connected to the handle?

2. How long is the blank for the mallet head?

3.How do you make holes for the handle in a mallet?

Teacher: (Continued study of the topic)

Based on the consolidated and acquired knowledge, we begin the practical work of making a mallet.

Briefing.

And before starting work, we will repeat the TB with the tool you will have to work with, that is, TB with a hacksaw, TB with a chisel, TB with sanding paper, TB with a drilling machine, TB with a plane.

5 . Practical work.

Ongoing teacher briefing.

Checking the quality of work.

Self-control .

Analysis of work, analysis of typical errors and identification of their causes.

6. Summing up.

I think that today's lesson has given you the knowledge to make the main parts of carpentry tools.

And if in later life you choose the profession of a joiner or carpenter, then this knowledge will be useful to you.

Assessing students' work in class.

Cleaning the mind.

Kiyanka - This is a large wooden hammer.

Drilling machine

Chisel

DIY mallet aslan wrote in March 9th, 2018

In general, now there is a large selection of mallets; purchased white rubber mallets are excellent for the job. White because it does not leave black spots from use. I have one like this. I also have another homemade one, made from a pillow from a truck. In general, I have a total of more than 25 hammers, sledgehammers and mallets.

But I am of the opinion that it is more pleasant to work with a beautiful instrument. And I decided to make myself a beautiful mahogany mallet. Well, why not? Some will say that this is foppishness, but I enjoy working in the workshop. If lace on a mallet brought me pleasure, I would attach it :)

Some people will be outraged by this, guys, you won’t be nice to everyone. Yes, I use hand tools.

I decided to make the handle from a stick from an oak pallet, and decorate the headband with sapele. A drawing was downloaded from the Internet

It's not that I don't have anything to make a handle out of, but first I need to look at the grain of the wood. Someone told me it was like Japanese oak. I haven’t been to Japan, I won’t say.

I cut oak and sapele into rough cuts.

I cut it and forward, with a plane. I have both a surface planer and a jointer (it’s dangerous to approach it with such wood chips), but I do it for my own pleasure, right?

I will have sapele around the edges, and the same oak inside. We assemble the block with glue. The handle is made on a reverse wedge, i.e. When working it will only shrink more tightly. The handle doesn't stick.

Now, using a chisel and a plane, we form the bevels, and also knock down the chamfers.

I decided to glue strips of veneer onto the handle, otherwise it looks a little rustic + there is a mark from a nail. The stick is from a pallet. Then I chamfered the handle so that it would fit in my hand.

And here is our result after coating with oil.

I use a mallet. It fits well in the hand, you take it right away, your hands feel the orientation of the striking part due to the rectangular handle.

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing a product such as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones exactly, and whether there is an ideal mallet option.

Rubber mallet – both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of various shapes. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the “engine” of chisels in the process of cutting parts. This happens as follows: in one hand the master holds a chisel, applying it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, with which he hits the end of the chisel handle, giving it the force necessary for cutting. The lightness of the material allows you to avoid severe hand injuries and is gentle on the instrument itself.

There are two types of mallet in shape - a lathe mallet, which is turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a hammer mallet, which is shaped like a sledgehammer, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first is its convenience, because whatever point of the mallet you hit will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the hand. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, more concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitoring the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not be possible to make such a tool without a special workbench.

Disadvantages of materials - imperfect mallets!

Mallets have a significant drawback - since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use, the working part of such a mallet after some time resembles a real washcloth, no matter what type of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers offer us what they consider to be improved tools. For example, a bronze “casing” is put on a turned mallet.

To some extent, the result is a truly durable tool, but the chisels themselves cease to be so! After several visits, they will look exhausted, not the mallet.. For such a tool you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be the ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the impacts are very gentle on the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - rubber tends to spring back when impacted.

It turns out that there is no ideal mallet? After all, we need to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of shock absorption;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet proposed an ideal option, but the craftsmen themselves have learned how to make it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What options are there for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, then at a minimum you can wrap several layers of tape around the work area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge to the wood with wood glue at the beginning of the winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the size of the material allows, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bit with a worm clamp or, as a last resort, make a winding of strong twine. You can nail the protruding edges on top to the end of the mallet with small nails or simply cut them off - if you glued the layers well, this option will last quite a long time. However, it is much better to make the mallet entirely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last almost forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather; in the market you can look for scraps from sellers, which they will be happy to give, if not for free, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the handle

It is best to use hard wood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut will also work. If it is possible to turn it on a lathe, then do this to obtain a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a protrusion in the middle of the handle so that there is a stop for the layers of skin. If you don’t have a lathe, you can wind several layers of rope for support.

Step 2: Preparing the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the leather of the same size. To begin with, make one layout and mark the required amount on a piece of material for it - depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 of these circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the thicker it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: String the Layers

Make a hole in each layer so you can thread the leather onto the handle. We connect each layer with subsequent PVA wood glue, trying to press the layers together as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and coated with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.

Step 4: Attach the washer

To prevent the leather layers from falling off in the future, you need to attach a large washer - metal or wood - to the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to find the optimal size for your handle so that it does not crack. That's all! The leather will not shatter into small chips during operation; impacts actually stick to this material and do not create as much noise as when working with a conventional wooden tool. Of course, it makes sense to tinker with such a tool when you constantly work with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden hammer mallet is quite suitable!

How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you don’t even need a drawing of a mallet - it’s very simple! Find three fairly large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder types of wood, except for handles, since they split from constant impacts. Adjust all the scraps to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and trace its outline. Then cut the block with a band saw or bow saw so that the resulting two pieces fit tightly to the handle. It is important that the handle and these two trims have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and trim off the excess. Sand thoroughly and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted to direct labor.

  • Look, the handle bracket is chrome.

The product itself is an inertia-free mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-selected wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.

First, a blank for the head of the mallet is glued together from the blocks. Bog oak plates (veneer) are laid between the parts. The gluing was done at the "joiner" moment.

After the glue has dried and the sander has given it a more rectangular shape, a Forstner cutter is used to select through holes that connect to each other.

We clean them to an oval shape and fill them with lead shot. From below you can see that another flat part is being glued in (exactly the same one will close the cavity on top)

We also glue the ends with plugs. The shape of the blank is first roughly given with a plane, and then finished using a grinder.

The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the “head” it has a rectangular cross-section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to protect against splitting, they end with holes.

The handle is placed on glue, wedged and, after final gluing, it is sanded again, this time by hand.

Finishing treatment - coating with AQUATEX balm colorless oil

Learned a real man's rattle! Its weight was 827 grams. When struck, it does not rebound upon impact and, despite its small dimensions, has a large weight.

The feeling when working is approximately like slapping your palm on asphalt or wet clay.

In general, the thing turned out to be not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish.

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing a product such as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones exactly, and whether there is an ideal mallet option.

Rubber mallet – both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of various shapes. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the “engine” of chisels in the process of cutting parts. This happens as follows: in one hand the master holds a chisel, applying it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, with which he hits the end of the chisel handle, giving it the force necessary for cutting. The lightness of the material allows you to avoid severe hand injuries and is gentle on the instrument itself.

There are two types of mallet in shape - a lathe mallet, which is turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a hammer mallet, which is shaped like a sledgehammer, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first is its convenience, because whatever point of the mallet you hit will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the hand. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, more concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitoring the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not be possible to make such a tool without a special workbench.


Disadvantages of materials - imperfect mallets!

Mallets have a significant drawback - since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use, the working part of such a mallet after some time resembles a real washcloth, no matter what type of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers offer us what they consider to be improved tools. For example, a bronze “casing” is put on a turned mallet.

To some extent, the result is a truly durable tool, but the chisels themselves cease to be so! After several visits, they will look exhausted, not the mallet.. For such a tool you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be the ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the impacts are very gentle on the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - rubber tends to spring back when impacted.

It turns out that there is no ideal mallet? After all, we need to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of shock absorption;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet proposed an ideal option, but the craftsmen themselves have learned how to make it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What options are there for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, then at a minimum you can wrap several layers of tape around the work area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge to the wood with wood glue at the beginning of the winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the size of the material allows, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bit with a worm clamp or, as a last resort, make a winding of strong twine. You can nail the protruding edges on top to the end of the mallet with small nails or simply cut them off - if you glued the layers well, this option will last quite a long time. However, it is much better to make the mallet entirely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last almost forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather; in the market you can look for scraps from sellers, which they will be happy to give, if not for free, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the handle

It is best to use hard wood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut will also work. If it is possible to turn it on a lathe, then do this to obtain a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a protrusion in the middle of the handle so that there is a stop for the layers of skin. If you don’t have a lathe, you can wind several layers of rope for support.

Step 2: Preparing the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the leather of the same size. To begin with, make one layout and mark the required amount on a piece of material for it - depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 of these circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the thicker it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: String the Layers

Make a hole in each layer so you can thread the leather onto the handle. We connect each layer to the next one, trying to press the layers together as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and coated with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.

Step 4: Attach the washer

To prevent the leather layers from falling off in the future, you need to attach a large washer - metal or wood - to the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to choose the optimal size for your handle so that it does not crack.

That's all! The leather will not shatter into small chips during operation; impacts actually stick to this material and do not create as much noise as when working with a conventional wooden tool. Of course, it makes sense to tinker with such a tool when you constantly work with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden hammer mallet is quite suitable!



How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you don’t even need a drawing of a mallet - it’s very simple! Find three fairly large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder types of wood, except for handles, since they split from constant impacts. Adjust all the scraps to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and trace its outline. Then cut the block with a band saw or so that the resulting two pieces fit tightly to the handle. It is important that the handle and these two trims have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and trim off the excess. Sand thoroughly and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted to direct labor.

I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap each paving slabs. It softens the blows, something like rubber mallet. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made from rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.

Of course, you can’t boast about the design, but nevertheless, the quality of this hammer is good.

The old mallet (pictured) has become unusable! The wood has already cracked and dried out from long use. It was urgently necessary to replace it with a new one. I drew a model of the future mallet on the computer, printed the picture on paper and got to work.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

For this project we will need several pieces of wood. This a great opportunity use unnecessary waste made of wood. Many of my friends don't give waste a chance to be useful, it just ends up either in the trash or burned like firewood.

I am not a master carpenter, but I think anyone can do this with a hammer.

You will need:

  1. Saw;
  2. Wood glue;
  3. Some clamps

I used a circular saw. I think that it is the fastest way to cut pieces of wood. After cutting, take sandpaper and clean the sides.

Step 2: Cut it out




Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at their own discretion. This is not critical. Everyone can also design a hammer independently and to suit their own tastes.

I made my handle length 350mm. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and at the other 30 mm. This size can be achieved easily if you have a table saw. WITH hand saw It will be a little difficult, but everything is possible.

Step 3: Assembling





We place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should protrude slightly from the overall head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut pieces together (Visible in the photo). Don't forget to take out the hammer handle, it should not stick with the hammer.

Use clamps to secure the hammer for better gluing of all parts of the hammer. In places where glue has leaked, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle goes in. Before complete drying, you must leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. Somewhat reminiscent of the layers of a sandwich and the condiments oozing out of it. It will, of course, look terrible, but in the next stages magic will happen.

Step 4: Processing the Hammer






Now that you have the hammer (head) and everything is firmly glued together, it's time to make it even more beautiful. I made cuts on the hammer handle in order to cut out small indentations later. This will make it easier for the handle to lie in your hand, and then pleasant work with the mallet.

Let's take a pen and cut out the recesses mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, cut it off.

After the work has been done, insert the handle into the hammer.

Step 5: Trimming and Refinishing





We sand all the irregularities on the handle for a smoother surface and to avoid splinters in the hand in the future. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that I could store it hanging in the future.

Step 6: Finished mallet hammer


If you want to glue the handle to your head, you can do so, but I didn’t do this, it’s not going anywhere for me anyway.

I look forward to your comments, dear friends!

When processing a workpiece requires powerful and at the same time soft blows, a mallet made of wood or with a rubber striker is usually used for this. However, the former are deservedly more popular.

This tool can be used for a variety of purposes, but is most often used in the home workshop for carpentry and carpentry work.

First you need to cut the necessary blanks for making the “head” of the mallet. In this case, the master decided to use different breeds wood to create some contrast. Many will agree that working with a beautiful instrument is much more pleasant.

Step-by-step process for making a wooden mallet

First of all, the master glues two identical rectangular blanks. Then he makes grooves in the center of the bars. After cutting on circular saw The grooves need to be straightened with a chisel. Next, these blanks will need to be glued together.

On next stage the master starts making wooden handle for the mallet. There is nothing complicated here - anyone can do it. Two cuts must be made in the upper part of the handle so that the wedges can be inserted.

And after the glue dries, all that remains is to cover ready product mineral oil, varnish or wax. For more information on how to make a comfortable wooden mallet with your own hands, we recommend watching the video on our website.