A floor lamp is usually called a tall portable (mobile) household lamp, table or floor. It is believed that if its height H is more than twice as large largest diameter lampshade Da, then this is no longer a lamp, but a floor lamp. However, the geometric line in this case turns out to be very vague. Therefore, when defining a floor lamp, it is better to proceed from its aesthetic value: unlike a table lamp, a floor lamp can become one of the most important elements of interior design and even become a key one among them (see photo below); especially when it shines in a dimly lit room.

Assembling a floor lamp entirely with your own hands means not just decorating a room, but expressing yourself and your vision of its appearance, without having to worry about choosing ready-made samples. Of which, most likely, you will not like any of them completely. Making a floor lamp is not difficult, but since it is narrow and tall, it is necessary to ensure its stability. Descriptions suitable for this technological methods and most of the material in the article is devoted to; Regarding the general design, we will limit ourselves mainly to visual examples and instructions for their technical implementation at home.

When designing your own unique and inimitable floor lamp, let's go from the bottom up: from the stand along the counter to the lampshade. Let’s take a closer look at how to make a lampshade for a floor lamp, because... Firstly, the lampshade of a floor lamp is larger than that of a table lamp. Secondly, it should be lighter - to ensure stability - and stronger, or very simple and cheap to manufacture, in case the floor lamp does tip over. Thirdly, the lampshade of the floor lamp must have good lighting properties, since the floor lamp at times has to, in whole or in part, provide general lighting. And finally, the lampshade of the floor lamp should be beautiful - it on the floor lamp means the same as the entire floor lamp in the interior.

Design

A floor lamp is designed in the same way as a table lamp, and making a floor lamp yourself is no more difficult if you consider the following: when developing the design, you must always keep in mind the contradiction between the mechanics of the floor lamp and its aesthetics; V table lamp it is not expressed so clearly. Namely: according to mechanics, a floor lamp should be as heavy as possible at the bottom and lighter at the top. A low center of gravity will ensure proper stability on the support small area and a slow, smooth fall when tipping over - you will be able to catch it in time. However, aesthetically, visually, the top of the floor lamp should absolutely dominate its base. To some extent, this condition contributes to the fulfillment of the first one - a large, lightweight lampshade when tipped over will slow down the fall even more due to its aerodynamic resistance.

Desktop

The design of the floor lamp is relatively small in height (H/Da<3,5), напр. настольного, показана на рис. ниже. От таковой настольной лампы она отличается обязательным наличием несущей стойки из стальной трубы и увеличенным утяжелителем. Брать на стойку трубу со стенками тоньше 1,5 мм нельзя – резьба под патрон лампы (см. далее) получится недостаточно прочной и при опрокидывании торшера может сломаться. Мягкая диэлектрическая втулка предохраняет электрокабель (обязательно с двойной изоляцией; жилы от 0,35 кв. мм по меди) от протирания о сталь; делают втулку из отрезка ПВХ трубки или тонкого садового шланга, туго вставленных в отверстие несущей стойки.

Design of a low floor lamp

An excellent homemade decoration (decorative casing) of a rack is made from polymer clay (plastic, cold porcelain) according to a template from PET bottles or pieces of foam plastic strung onto the rack. Clay comes in a variety of colors; basically and completely with your own hands. Dried using a combined method: before initial hardening at room temperature, and then until full strength under a stream of air from a household hair dryer, polymer clay is very durable in a layer of 2-3 mm; You can also make a lampshade out of it, see below, and as for the floor lamp stand made of plastic, it, almost empty inside, combines light weight with visual significance.

Note: the decorative casing of the rack can be anything you like, or completely absent, but remember – mechanically heavy bottom and light top!

Another decor trick

Using plastic, the decorative design of a floor lamp stand can be made transparent, made of silicone. In this case, polymer clay is used as a material for a destructible injection mold.

How to make a transparent stand for a floor lamp with your own hands from silicone is shown in Fig. Explanations are required mainly for pos. 3-5:

• While the plastic shell is still soft, 3-6 small (approx. 2 mm) holes are made at the bottom of it for the material of the lost wax to flow out (shown by blue arrows in position 3);
• The block is melted when the plastic shell is completely dry at room temperature (2-3 days);
• To melt the block, the workpiece is placed in a baking tray, etc. pallet;
• The blockhead is melted with a household hairdryer at full power, using smooth circular movements from bottom to top;
• After melting the block, the holes at the bottom of the resulting casting mold are sealed with that plastic and wait for it to dry completely;
• To fill the mold with silicone, put a PVC or, better yet, PE tube onto the spout of the tube;
• The mold is filled with silicone layer by layer in a circular motion, 2-3 levels of “sausages” in a layer;
• To avoid bubbles, each subsequent layer of silicone is introduced when the previous one has spread;
• Starting from the 2nd layer, to speed up spreading, you can drop a drop (no more!) of table vinegar onto the layer you just introduced;
• Once the silicone has completely hardened, carefully break the plastic mold.

This method has two disadvantages. The first is the hardening speed of silicone 2 mm/hour. Calculate for yourself how long it will take a 1.7 m high stand to dry. Secondly, it is possible to obtain a silicone fill without bubbles in this way only by using the best quality material and gaining experience, for which you will have to ruin a couple of smaller blanks. However, this is a relative disadvantage: bubble silicone castings sometimes also look good.

Note: A completely transparent floor lamp stand can be made from silicone if you use a rigid acrylic tube as its supporting core. Glass is not suitable - it is fragile, and you cannot cut a thread on it to fit a lamp socket.

Floor

Stability is of particular importance for a floor lamp; especially if it is cantilevered, with a lamp placed outside the support area, possibly moved in 1-2 planes and fixed in a given position. In this case, you have to sacrifice either convenience, making the base of the floor lamp small, but so heavy that it can be rearranged with hoists or hoists, or stability and the ability to adjust the light, position. 1 and 2 in Fig.

A fairly comfortable and stable floor lamp with adjustable light can be made in the steampunk style. In human terms, this means - from parts of old mechanics, but it will not fit into every interior, pos. 3. And sometimes, in attempts to combine design efforts with safety and ergonomic requirements, products are born that can frighten the machines on the factory floor, pos. 4

A floor lamp combined with a bedside table (bedside table) or a rack (sideboard floor lamp) is quite stable, see fig. A floor lamp stand can be made cantilevered with a rotating lamp without fear or any calculations. For a budget one-room apartment or a small bedroom, this is an ideal solution: if desired, the light can be placed either above the bed, or above an armchair or table, by turning the console.

If you want the floor lamp to look exactly like a floor lamp, stand on its own on the floor and be rearranged without tension, then you can make a fairly heavy stand for it according to the diagram in Fig. below. Visible parts are made of wood or other good-looking and easy-to-work material, and the weight plate (approximately 180x180 in plan) can be anything - uneven, rusty - because... she is invisible. The supporting post is also attached to the slab in any way you like - with threads, welding, as long as it is strong. The decorative base and overlay in such a scheme, as we see, will not experience destructive stress, even if the floor lamp is knocked over with a kick.

How to choose a cartridge

It is not always technically possible or difficult to attach the lampshade to the floor lamp stand securely and in such a way that it does not spoil the view. For example, although plastic is strong, it is quite fragile, and soldering on a shiny bare tube is almost impossible to “ennoble” visually. Therefore, the responsibility of holding the lampshade often has to be assigned to the light bulb socket in the floor lamp.

A regular pendant socket (on the left in the figure) can only be used if the lampshade is attached to the stand; then it is screwed with a shank onto the thread of the supporting pipe. To replace a light bulb, you will have to reach into the lampshade with your hand, and the likelihood of it breaking when tipped over is high. True, in this case the lamp and socket are better protected, so it is advisable to use a pendant socket with a floor lamp with a stand made of a fairly strong and viscous material, for example. made of wood, and attach the lampshade to it.

Cartridges with union nuts-skirts (on the right in the figure) for attaching the lampshade are preferable in all other cases. The chuck with threaded skirts is attached to the stand with the same M10 or M12 shank; For a floor lamp, the latter option is more suitable. If a floor lamp with such a socket tips over, the skirts are the first to break, so the frame of the lampshade (see below) for mounting on the socket should be made as light and elastic as possible.

Shade

The lampshade for a floor lamp can be made on a frame or frameless, soft or hard. Skillfully executed, these design options in any combination can provide the necessary performance qualities of the lampshade, incl. resistance to damage and protection of the lamp socket, as well as possibilities for its design.

Frame

Everyone seems to know what a lampshade frame is. A floor lamp shade is generally the same as any other lamp shade and must meet the same conditions. However, due to the less stability of the floor lamp and its greater susceptibility to damage, additional requirements are imposed on its lampshade, see above. They are best satisfied with frame lampshades.

The most durable frame lampshade is in the form of a truncated cone. It consists of lower and upper rims (hoops), ribs that hold the upper rim, braces (bars) that hold the frame itself on the stand, and possibly a ring for attaching to the chuck. Material, except for the fastening ring, is steel wire 1-2 mm; ring - made of sheet steel 0.35-1 mm.

The dimensions of the conical lampshade of the floor lamp are given in pos. 1 and 2 fig. From the point of view of lighting technical qualities, when changing sizes, it is advisable to maintain proportions. For example, if the diameter of the lower rim is, say, 250 mm, then the diameter of the upper will be 250/260 = 1.5625x100 = 156 mm, and the height, similarly, 170x1.5625 = 265 mm. Although, of course, preference in these circumstances should be given to design: incorrect proportions spoil the appearance more than lighting technology.

Note: The most durable lampshade is with a fastening ring extended down 20-30 mm (pos. 2a), but because the fastening of a tall floor lamp is then clearly visible, then the fastening ring of its lampshade is often, on the contrary, pushed up the same amount, pos. 2b.

Power diagrams of frame lampshades are given in pos. 3-5. Their comparative characteristics are as follows:

• Rigid (position 3) - the lampshade perfectly protects against damage when it falls, but very poorly - the socket with the lamp. The ribs are visible even if the lampshade cover is made of hard plastic, pos. 6. You can avoid the ribs showing through only by decorating the lampshade with a voluminous overlay decor (item 7), but the floor lamp will then become suitable only for local lighting. It is technologically the simplest and can be made by a novice craftsman without experience. It is highly advisable to attach it to a stand.
• Semi-rigid (item 4) – if the skin is 2-layer thin (item 8) or knitted (item 9), the ribs are not visible. The cartridge does not break and does not break itself if the floor lamp is knocked over by accident, but it will not withstand a deliberate overturning by a strong push, and the cartridge will collapse. Technologically complex, because Before rigid assembly (see below), it is necessary to accurately align vertically the centers of the lower and upper rims.
• Semi-soft (non-stretch, pos. 5) - the ribs do not show through if the covering is made of sufficiently dense fabric (pos. 10). Technologically, it is the simplest - the hoops center themselves. When dropped, the floor lamp itself does not break, unless you need to straighten the rims, but it will definitely break the socket. Not very suitable for cantilever floor lamps and/or those that also provide general lighting.

How to make a frame lampshade

The parts of the frame lampshade are connected by soldering, except for attaching the tie rods to the ring under the cartridge, where a preliminary mechanical connection is required before it. Solder - regular, POS of any brand, fluxes - phosphoric acid and light rosin (not burnt); soldering iron – from 60 W.

A solution of orthophosphoric acid for soldering is sold in electrical and radio stores. This is a medium strength acid, not volatile, not particularly toxic, so the only PPE you will need is latex gloves. Part of the store-bought solution will need to be used to prepare a 6% wash solution. You will also need thin bare copper wire. The sequence of operations for assembling the lampshade frame using soldering is shown in Fig:

• The parts are bent in advance according to the shape (see below), their areas for soldering are cleaned with fine sandpaper and the remaining parts are removed with a foam rubber swab.
• The ends/areas to be soldered are etched for 3-5 minutes in a 6% solution of orthophosphoric acid (item 1).
• After etching, the parts are washed intensively (moving quickly) for 0.5-1 minutes in clean water, preferably distilled, pos. 2.
• The prepared parts are immediately, while still wet, applied to each other (item 3) and the joint is wrapped with copper wire (item 4), without touching the parts with bare fingers or anything greasy or dirty.
• Apply 2-3 drops of soldering acid solution to the connection, pos. 4, or active flux paste.
• If the first flux is acidic, put rosin on the soldering iron tip and heat the connection until all the acid boils away and is replaced by rosin (item 5). You must not interrupt the operation and allow the rosin to burn!
• Place solder on a soldering iron and solder the joint, pos. 6.

Assembly

When assembling the frame, do not rush to solder right away. Waiting for 20-25 minutes after winding with dry copper will not affect the strength of the soldering if the air in the room is clean and not excessively dusty. Therefore, first, the frame is assembled only on copper, its evenness and the alignment of the hoops are checked, and only then all the joints are soldered at once.

The assembly of the frame begins with fixing the mustache of the braces in the ring for the cartridge (item 3 in the figure), if there is one; crimp the mustache loops with pliers. If the frame will be attached to the rack, you will need to prepare in advance a wooden boss simulating its head with blind holes for the guy wires. The whiskers are inserted into these temporary sockets, wedged with matches or toothpicks, aligned along horizontal corners (yes, that’s right!), and only then the frame is assembled.

The covering of the assembled frame is done in the same way as the lampshade of a table lamp, about which there are relevant publications. Here we only mention that the simplest classical way of covering a conical lampshade is with textile tape, pos. 4. And for a figured (shaped) frame (item 5) it is not at all necessary to make a complex sewing product according to patterns, especially since the seams will be visible. You can cover a shaped lampshade with one sleeve made of fabric with ribbons, pos. 6 and 7.

Note: sometimes lampshade frames are made of aluminum wire - it is light and can be straightened by hand. Soldering aluminum is currently not difficult - special solders and fluxes are commercially available. If you intend to make do with ordinary rosin and POS, then aluminum parts for soldering can be copper-plated using the old “pioneer” method, see fig. on right. Instead of a battery, use a telephone charger or a similar power source (PS) - 3-9 V, from 400 mA. The toothbrush is wrapped with copper wire, pushing it across between rows of tufts of bristles. The wire is needed thicker, from 0.5-0.6 mm, i.e. it is its material that is consumed to create the copper layer. Sprinkle the soldering area with copper sulfate powder (optional). The brush, wrapped and connected to the power supply, is dipped in an electrolyte - a strong (dense blue) solution of the same copper sulfate, and the part is rubbed with force.

Frameless

Frameless lampshades are either cast at the factory from plastic, or made independently from polymer clay or scrap materials. The first is, in general, cheap-looking pop. You can make a real masterpiece out of plastic using a lost wax block, see for example. the jellyfish lamp in Fig. at the beginning, similar to silicone casting. Only in this case, after melting the block, the plastic shell is not filled or broken, but is trimmed and decorated, if necessary. But such technology is complex, expensive, and those who own it probably know everything that is written in this article and more.

There are countless types of amateur lampshades made from scrap materials, but only a few samples meet the minimum requirements for a floor lamp shade. For example, a lampshade made of threads, pos. 1 in Fig. It softens the light perfectly. The light transmission of a filament lampshade is small, so the lamp in a floor lamp with such a lampshade needs to be bright, but now there are a lot of LED bulbs on sale that consume little electricity and heat up very little.

And to make a lampshade from threads, all you need is an inflated balloon, greased with Vaseline, and a simple device for pulling the thread through PVA glue, pos. 2. A hole with a diameter of 41 mm for mounting on a cartridge is cut out in the finished lampshade. When a floor lamp falls, the socket always remains intact, and the dented lampshade is straightened with your fingers; You may have to coat it with PVA.

A thread lampshade made from plastic spoons has similar performance properties, but is superior in terms of lighting technology, see next. rice.:

Using a bottle base, you get a hanging lampshade, like the one on the right in Fig. A large lampshade made from spoons for a floor lamp can be glued onto a plastic 5-liter container, see for example. Master Class

Video: lampshade made of plastic spoons and 5 liter bottles

About paper lampshades

Good soft, but bright enough light is provided by LED lamps in paper lampshades. Their main drawback - fire hazard - is a thing of the past along with incandescent lamps. But others - fragility, lack of resistance to moisture and susceptibility to pollution - remained. Therefore, for a paper lampshade for a floor lamp, you need to take not writing, drawing or packaging paper, but paper products for the needs of the food industry or catering establishments, for example. disposable paper plates; in a lampshade they will last a long time, see video.

Local lighting in the apartment is created, among other things, by a floor lamp. Its convenience lies in the fact that it is a stand-alone floor lamp. You can put it on the floor in any free place, and, sitting next to you in a chair, read, knit or sew. The stand, leg and lampshade are the three main structural parts, the basis for the floor lamp. Depending on what type they will have, you will get one or another lamp design. If you have imagination and a desire to make a floor lamp with your own hands, we recommend this article to familiarize yourself with some crafts. Perhaps they will be useful and add new ideas and solutions.

Steam punk style

First master class.

A very convenient workpiece for making a floor lamp with your own hands at home can be an unnecessary drum-type washing machine. The laundry drum is an almost finished lampshade. If you do not paint it, then it is a ready-made lampshade, which, thanks to stainless steel, will never change its appearance. A home craftsman can make a stand for it and mount a light bulb socket with his own hands without much effort. The simplest option is a wooden structure. A rectangular frame with a cross at the base, coated with paint or varnish - this is something many craftsmen can do.

The lampshade drum does not have to be fixed. It simply slides on top and self-centers. This makes it more convenient to change the lamp if necessary. To secure the cartridge at the top of the horizontal crossbar, two furniture nails are driven in (shown in the image below). They are quite enough to hold the wire with the cartridge threaded between them. Similarly, between pairs of nails hammered at the required intervals along the side of the stand, wiring is laid along the frame. To control the light, you can use either a wired switch or a wired dimmer.

Fastening the wire to the frame. Tools used for work are visible on the makeshift table

The light from the lampshade penetrates to the sides through small holes and is pleasant to perceive. The polished inner metal surface reflects light downwards well. The cross base is convenient for a stack of books, which with its weight improves the stability of the lamp. If desired, the frame and lampshade can be painted in any color. It is recommended to use paints that are best for metal and wood. Painting work should not be carried out in a residential area.

• The proposed floor lamp, made by hand using a washing machine drum on a wooden frame, is one of the easiest structures to manufacture. Any home master can master it.

Reeds as the basis of the design

Second master class.

The next proposed idea on how to make a floor lamp with your own hands is based on the use of dried reed stems. If you place their segments on two coaxial metal rings, you will get a lampshade that looks quite decent. Using the same technology you can make a frame for a chandelier. In the same way, a home craftsman can make a table lamp with his own hands - from reeds and pieces from them. But with this technology you will have to do a lot of work, although not complicated:

• make holes for the wire in two places on each reed;
• You will need to cut a large number of pieces and make a hole in each of them to place the parts on the wire.

This will accommodate the parts and pieces inserted between them.

To cut a large number of reed pieces quickly and easily, it is recommended to use a template and a flat bit in a hand drill. To do this, a mark is made on a flat board from the edge that specifies the length of the piece. The required number of parts can be quickly cut to this size using a milling cutter. Then a longitudinal hole is made in each of them for the wire.

There is no need to perform separate operations for making holes in the parts. The wire quite easily pierces the reeds across and pieces along as they are assembled.

The floor lamp, assembled with your own hands from dry reeds, contains three shades of different shapes, but made in the same way. Each one fits directly onto a miniature 40-watt light bulb. The lamp is inserted into a socket-socket attached to the end of the reed-leg. A hollow reed allows a wire to be passed inside it, running from the cartridge to a base made of flat stone. Holes of suitable diameter are drilled in the stone. The reed-leg should fit into the hole with a slight interference fit. To more accurately match the size of the hole and the diameter of the leg, adhesive tape is wrapped around it.

The floor lamp has an original look and gives a lot of light, which can be adjusted with a dimmer. Its main advantage is that there is no paint or chemicals in its parts. The parts are completely made from natural materials. Manufacturing technology makes it possible to make a lampshade with different light dispersion. If the pieces between the reeds in the lampshade are made shorter, less light will spread to the sides. Therefore, the craftsman has the opportunity to make any design of lampshades of his choice, using the same technology.

We use a telescopic spinning rod

Third master class.

The last do-it-yourself floor lamp option in this article is based on a broken telescopic spinning rod. If the last, thinnest section of fishing tackle breaks, you can find a use for it in local lighting. For skeptical readers, we will show the finished product. And then we will explain the stages of its manufacture.

In addition to its elegant appearance, the product is also multifunctional. The spinning rod, which acts as a leg, is sliding. The wire going to the lamps is wound onto a reel and follows the path of the fishing line along the sections. This allows you to change the height by two times. When folded, you can get a table lamp, and when unfolded, you can get a floor lamp of optimal height. Refinement of the spinning rod comes down to manufacturing:

• grounds;
• mounts for light sources;
• lampshade.

If the product is intended to be used as a table lamp, the base must be made small and massive enough for reliable stability. It is best to order it from a turner and provide the possibility of filling the base with shot for massiveness. Mounts for light sources are made in the form of a cross-shaped part formed by a plate and a tube. The tube is sawn lengthwise and opens slightly in order to drill a hole for the screw in the crosshairs of the parts.

At one end of the tube, a part of the connector is installed, which will be used to connect the lamps. Based on this, the diameter of the tube is selected. One hole is drilled in the plate closer to the ends. They are used for mounting lamp sockets. The lampshade is made of wire suitable for soldering with regular solder. It is best to use stainless steel. And not only for the lampshade, but for all manufactured parts.

The lampshade is attached to the spinning rod by a cross member installed along its diameter. It takes on a finished look after being covered with decorative fabric.

Floor lamp as a table lamp (spinning leg folded)

In this lamp, the simplest option for controlling the light will be a wired switch or dimmer. But it is possible to make a board built into the base with similar functions of a dimmer.

We hope that the homemade products shown will be useful to our readers. The information provided on how to make a floor lamp from items that have fallen into disrepair is the basis for your own crafts.

How to make a modern floor lamp that harmoniously matches the overall style of the interior of a living space with your own hands? One of the interior items that makes any home cozy is a floor lamp, which is a lamp mounted on a long leg. This lighting device can turn your home into a small fairy-tale world in which you will feel safe.

Make your own floor lamp with your own hands not difficult at all. Unless, to make a floor lamp stand, you will need to know electronics (and even then not thoroughly, but only to a minimum) and be able to handle special tools. To do this, you should take an extension cord, a socket, an electrical cord, as well as a switch, a plug and, of course, a light bulb. Almost any long stick, except a wooden one, can serve as a leg.

So when you have all these ready devices and tools for making a floor lamp with your own hands, you can get down to business. First, you should secure the stick on the stand, after drilling a hole in it for the cord, if required. And when all these complex manipulations with wires and electricity are completed, you can begin the most enjoyable part of your DIY activity - decorating the floor lamp. Here everything depends solely on your imagination. You can decorate the leg with shells, beads, buttons, beads, and also rhinestones (for lovers of glamor).

If you like a strict style, then paint the leg of the floor lamp match the lampshade or wrap it in a fancy way with colored wire. In a word, use your imagination and come up with an original design for your floor lamp. Just don't forget that it must fit into the stop in your home. At the end of the article you will find several interesting master classes with which you can make beautiful and stylish floor lamps with your own hands at home.

If you already have a floor lamp at home, making a new one will be even easier. After all, you can remake an old lamp by changing the design of the lampshade or legs.
Moreover, the lampshade can be made in two ways:
1. Using white fabric, which is painted with special acrylic paints or decorated handmade floor lamp the same shells, buttons and rhinestones.
2. Using wallpaper. For this purpose you will need a simple white (or cream) floor lamp, wallpaper and wallpaper glue. Next we do the following: first we select the wallpaper by illuminating it with a lamp.

Your choice should depend on how the wallpaper looks under the light of a light bulb. Then measure the length and height of the circumference old floor lamp. After this, you need to cut a piece of wallpaper to the size of this very circle, leaving about two centimeters. Dissolve the glue. Moreover, the glue should be applied in the area of ​​the ends of the floor lamp connection so that the glue is 20 cm from these very ends.

Then place the wallpaper on the area coated with glue and press, but not too hard, otherwise there will be bumps on the wallpaper that will not look very neat. Thus, applying glue to small areas of the lampshade, you should stick the wallpaper until you reach the seam again. Then just make a bend and apply glue to it. Glue to the seam. Your work should now dry. After this you can install the updated lampshade on the base of a floor lamp.

We make a modern and elegant floor lamp with our own hands. Master class with photos of all stages of work.

How to make an original floor lamp out of paper with your own hands. Master class for beginners.

To make the apartment as comfortable as possible for living, it can be furnished in an attractive and original way, bringing to life all kinds of design ideas. One of these is to make a floor lamp with your own hands, also known as a floor lamp.

Such a device was a common lighting device in the last century; now it is in demand both as a design and as a functional interior object. If you approach its creation creatively, the room will immediately be transformed.

Functions of a floor lamp in the interior

By installing a floor lamp, you can completely change the visual appearance of your room. The functions of this device are:

• accentuation of a particular zone in the room. For example, you can highlight an armchair, sofa, or other piece of furniture;
• giving a special atmosphere to the room;
• combining several styles.

Another good thing about a floor lamp is that, if necessary, you can always move it to another place. This will allow you, if necessary, to change the decor in your home without rearranging or repairing.

Necessary for work

To make a floor lamp with your own hands, you need to decide in advance on the material of manufacture. It could be:

Having decided on the key material, you should prepare all the necessary materials. The design elements are:

Tools you will need:

The complete list of tools depends on what material is used to produce the floor lamp. It can be supplemented at your own discretion.

Elements and their assembly

Regardless of what materials are used to assemble a floor lamp, it includes three key elements: a leg, a stand and a lampshade. To make your work easier, it is recommended to prepare a drawing in advance indicating the exact dimensions of each part.

The lamp stand can be made from wood or plastic. The base can be of any shape, the main thing is that the stand holds the entire structure well. After assembling the base, connect the cable to the electrical plug and socket. It is worth considering that all joints on the wires must be insulated. The stand is then connected to the electrical components.

For the leg, it is best to use hollow metal. It is lightweight, fire resistant and capable of supporting the entire structure. In order for the floor lamp to be safe, It’s better not to make the leg out of wood. An electrical cable is routed inside it; this can be done before the leg is attached to the base.

Most of the lamp is ready. All that remains is to make the lampshade and decorate it.

Lampshade and its decor

The most creative part of the work is making the lampshade. The stand and leg are made strictly according to the drawings in almost all cases, but the lampshade is always unique. It is he who gives the product a particular style. For example, classic, hi-tech, Japanese and some other.

You can make a lampshade with your own hands from many available materials, for example:

• paper;
• fabrics;
• tree branches;
• plastic bottles and more.

The lampshade manufacturing scheme is the same in most cases. The shape is set using wire. It is better to take a hard one that will hold it well. Side elements in the form of paper, fabric or branches connected to each other are attached to this form.

During work, everything must be done as carefully as possible; the places where structural elements are fixed should not be very noticeable. But if you weren’t able to achieve accuracy the first time, then imperfections can be hidden with the help of decorative elements.

Everyone chooses whether to decorate the lampshade or not. It all depends on the material of its production. For example, if it is made from branches, then they are the decor and there is no need to supplement it.

In other cases, you can decorate the structure with elements based on the following materials:

If you have drawing skills, then a paper or fabric lampshade can be supplemented with painting. There are a huge number of ideas for creating a unique lampshade for a lamp. Among them:

• based on the old globe;
• inverted wicker basket;
• from petals;
• artificial butterflies or hearts;
• imitation of scales based on small elements;
• an inflatable ball covered with threads and more.

But, when choosing a certain material for finishing a lampshade or wanting to implement one or another non-standard idea, you need to remember that the light should not be hidden. Any finish to create an attractive floor lamp must be designed to ensure that the room is sufficiently illuminated.

Original ideas

In addition to the basic materials, others can be used to assemble a homemade floor lamp, thanks to which the product will have a more original and attractive appearance.

In particular, some make floor lamps based on polymer clay. This material is good because it is easy to process, dries quickly and lends itself well to decoration. The base is made from a roll of paper or a paper box. What the base will be depends on what the lampshade will be.

The clay should be slowly squeezed onto a piece of paper or cardboard and left until it dries completely. And when the base is removed, you can further decorate the lampshade at your discretion. Polymer clay can be replaced with putties, liquid nails, construction sealants and more.

Another original option for making a lighting device is from an old vase. However, this is difficult to do, since the material is fragile, and making holes in it is very problematic.

A metal lid will need to be attached to the neck of the vase, on which a hollow pin will be installed. It will serve as a tripod. To make the structure stable, The cover must be secured with stops, which in size correspond to the widest part of the vase.

A cord is passed through the hollow pin, it passes through the hole in the lid and comes out through the hole at the bottom of the side of the vase. You need to attach a plug and socket to the wire. To make the lamp stable, you can pour sand into the vase. The lampshade is made from wire covered with linen or fabric.

It is recommended to install homemade lamps only in living rooms, bedrooms, hallways and other places where there is no high humidity. Accordingly, they are not suitable for bathrooms and toilets. It is unlikely that such devices will be able to provide reliable protection from moisture on their own, so it is better not to risk it.

Making a floor lamp with your own hands is not that difficult. The main thing is to follow the instructions and follow the recommendations for its manufacture. If you show your imagination, you can make a unique design object from inexpensive scrap materials that will decorate any room.

Reading a newspaper or book on your favorite chair can sometimes be difficult due to lack of light. It is irrational to buy a lamp, but making a floor lamp with your own hands is much more economical - you can move it from place to place, adjusting the lighting as conveniently as possible for reading. In addition, such a product will perfectly complement the interior. Wood is used as the material for its manufacture - below is a master class in which ash is used to make the lamp.

When deciding how to make a floor lamp yourself and at home, it is not enough just to know the dimensions into which the parts will be cut. The instructions below provide all the information on this process - from marking to assembling the product.

We cut out the following elements of the future floor lamp:

• sides (A) of the stand;
• front part (C) of the rack;
• back (B) of the rack;
• bar E, which will be located on top;
• sides of bracket D.

Parts A, B, C and E must be made with a length allowance of 25 mm, shown in more detail in the drawings below. The purpose of allowances will be described further in the text.

Note! If the blanks for the sides of the stand and the holder are fastened with double-sided adhesive tape, then it will be possible to quickly mark all the lines, intersection points, locations of future holes, and “in one fell swoop” cut out all the same or symmetrical parts.

On each pair of blanks we mark the top points and ends of the arcs. To make a flexible pattern, we cut out a 50x1830 strip from MDF 12 mm thick - it will help mark the arcs on two pairs of blanks. In this way, uniform and smooth arcs are drawn over long lengths and in the manufacture of various furniture, where necessary.

After that:

• mark the cut corners at the end of each pair of blanks;
• on the sides of A we mark the length of the back of B;
• At the ends of the sides of bracket D we mark semicircular cutouts.
• In all places indicated in the drawings we make holes with a diameter of 6 mm.

Focusing on the marked areas and making an angle, we file the ends of the holder D and the sides A of the stand. Using a band saw, we cut out the blanks along the marked contour, making an allowance on the outside. After that, we sand everything and separate the pairs of sides (we use white spirit to remove traces of tape).

We cut out tongues (grooves) on the back part B of the rack, and folds on the nearby part C.

Aligning the ends of the sides, we place the workpieces on the table so that their curved edges look up. We attach the back part B to them with a clamp, marking the angle of the lower bevel on it. We adjust the protractor to the same angle and use a miter saw to saw off the bevel at the end of the back plank.

Wooden material is good for work because you can always use its trimmings. In our case, we need to cut out 3 inserts from them, each 25 mm wide. They will separate the sides A. To do this, we place them with the curved side up on the carpentry table, using clamps we fix the back part of the post B on them, after which, transferring the marks from them, we mark its final length. After removing the clamps, we file the back strip to the desired size.

We apply glue to the grooves of the rear part B of the rack, fasten it to the sides A, aligning the lower ends, after which we fix the entire gluing. Why all these manipulations are needed, you can see in the detailed drawing above.

Note! To make a floor lamp with your own hands even and beautiful, you need to insert bolts or studs into the holes for a while. This will align the sides. In order to install the rear part as best as possible, it must be pressed with clamps, and all work must be done starting from the bottom and moving up.

In the upper bar E of the holder we cut out dowels measuring 10 mm.

We set the saw blade at an angle of 13 degrees, after which we saw off the long part of the top bar to the length indicated in the overview detailed drawing above. Now we set the tilt of the disk to 16 degrees and saw off the short part of the top bar, using the same pattern as a guide. Aligning the ends of the sawn parts, glue them to the sides of holder D.

Making the base

The base of the product is also made of wood with your own hands. From the material (19 mm thick) we cut out:

• top bar F;
• upper rear part G.

When making blanks for the lower parts, we take into account the following nuances:

• the bottom bar H is made 3 mm wider and 6 mm longer than the dimensions indicated in the figure;
• the lower rear part of I is made 3 mm wider than the indicated dimensions.

Stepping back 25 mm from the edges of the upper rear part, we make oblique holes. We glue the part itself and secure it with self-tapping screws to the upper front blank.

To make a floor lamp with your own hands into a fully functioning piece of furniture, you need to think about how electricity will flow into it. Therefore, as shown in the figure below, at the bottom of the central part of the lower rear workpiece I we cut out a tongue (groove) of 10x10 mm - this will be the place for the electrical cable. After this, we make another 3x19 mm groove in the center of the cut hole.

Based on the drawing below, we drill oblique holes, making an indent of 25 mm from the edges. Now, we glue the result of our labor and secure it with self-tapping screws to the lower workpiece N.

Click to enlarge

We mark the shape of the top layer of the F/G base, cut it out and sand it. We place these blanks on the lower H/I, aligning them so that the end of the upper rear part G is shifted 10 mm relative to the end of the lower rear part I.

To mark the contours of the lower layer H/I, we outline the upper blanks F/G (photo above), making an allowance of 10 mm. In this case, instead of rounding the corners, we draw straight lines. We drill holes in the parts of the lower layer from below for subsequent screwing in four self-tapping screws. We process the drilling places with a countersink, after which we separate both layers of the base.

Based on the base diagram above, we make holes:

• in the front upper F and lower H parts measuring 10 mm;
• in the lower front part H - 38 mm.

After this, we cut out the bottom layer of H/I according to the markings.

We cut out the J strut, leaving the edge of the workpiece rectangular in shape (without a long bevel).

We fix it with clamps, after which we press the previously prepared part of the A/B rack against it (its lower part should be adjacent to the carpentry table for ease of connection). Now we transfer the markings of the rear part of the B pillar to the strut and cut out the required workpiece. After this, we sand it, and treat the sharp edges with sandpaper or a carpenter’s file with fine teeth.

We glue part J and secure it with self-tapping screws to the top layer of the F/G base. Then we glue and fasten with self-tapping screws the assembled blanks of the lower H/I layer.

We cut out the K strip (it will cover the network cable), grind it and glue it into the groove, as shown in the photo.

Attach the stand to the base

We press the stand to the strut. We drill a hole into it through the rear part B of the rack and screw in a self-tapping screw.

On the upper front part of the base F we mark the location of the A/B pillar, after which we remove it. Drill holes F and K through the base. Then the holes from the bottom need to be countersunk.

We glue the A/B post to the J strut, then reinforce it with screws. In the sides of the rack, through the holes made in the base, we drill guide auxiliary holes. We secure the stand to the base with self-tapping screws. Using clamps, we press the front part of the post C against the sides A, which fit into the folds, marking the bevel angle at its lower end, after which we remove the clamps and file the bevel according to the markings. We reattach the workpiece in place, press its lower bevel to the base and transfer the markings from the sides to mark the final length. We file down the nearby plank and attach it to the sides of the post.

Installing the holder

Mark the shape of the hinge plate L and the place where the central hole will be located. We cut out the workpiece according to the mark and sand it along the contour.

Having turned the holder D/E over, we place it on the table for carpentry and between the side parts D we insert an intermediate piece, the cross-section of which is 6x6 mm. We place the hinge plate on it, aligning the hole markings made on it with the central hole of the sidewalls. Using clamps, attach the supporting trim to the side that is located further. Insert a drill into the hole on the side that is closer, then drill a hole through the entire plate. We take it out, sand it, secure it between the sides of the holder using 25 mm furniture ties (2 pcs.).

We insert the assembled D/E/L holder between the sides of post A and secure it with a 50 mm furniture tie. We install the end of the holder horizontally, and then fix it with a long piece.

We press 6 mm thick cuttings against the hinge plate L on both sides with clamps and drill one hole. Raise the end of the holder D/E/L by 130 mm and drill a second hole through the plates L. We drill the last hole after the structure has been raised another 130 mm.

Making the M head:

• on a piece of 13 mm thick cutting we mark a circle (the diameter should be 25 mm);
• drill a 6 mm hole in the middle of the circle;
• We cut the workpiece around the circumference and sand it with 220 grit sandpaper.

From a 6 mm steel rod we cut a piece 76 mm long. We apply glue to it and insert it into the head M (the tip of the rod should protrude 6 mm). After the glue has dried, insert a locking rod into the holes in plate L and the sides of pillar A.

Adding a lampshade

The lampshade for the lamp being manufactured can be anything. You can buy it in a store or look among old things. The product will look more original if you show your imagination and make a lampshade for the floor lamp with your own hands. In addition, the frame for the floor lamp is quite simple to make.

To make the components of the holder - strip N and plate O - we cut a blank from a material 20 mm thick, the size of which is 6x305 mm. Stepping back from the two ends of the workpiece by 5 mm, we make a groove, as indicated in the drawing. We saw off one strip N from each end and fasten them using double-sided tape. We drill holes d5.5, and make roundings on the parts while they are not yet separated.

In the remaining part of the workpiece, divide the width by half and drill a hole d10 in the middle, retreating 16 mm from one of the ends. We saw off a piece 32 mm long (a hole should be drilled on it). We glue the resulting fastening plate O to the strips N and fix it using clamps.

We remove all the fittings, carefully sand everything and apply a finishing coat.

How to make a lampshade with your own hands from a basket. Video instruction.

Assembling the product

We assemble all parts of the product except the N/O fastening. We pass the network cable through the base F-K and the post A-C, looping it around the hinge plate L and through the holder D/E. We leave an end approximately 90 cm long, on which we put:

• bushing with internal thread;
• nut;
• N/O mount;
• decorative sleeve;
• part of the tube having an external thread.

We fix everything on the mounting plate O using a sleeve with internal thread.

In the lampshade, insert the tip of the wire into the mounting hole and add two nuts. By tightening one of them, we secure the lampshade, leaving the second one slightly movable. We thread a wire into the socket of the socket for two light bulbs, and fix the socket itself with a sleeve with an internal thread (the fixation is carried out on a tube with an external thread).

Click to enlarge

We tie the ends of the wires into a special knot and connect them to the cartridge wires. We pull back the excess part of the wire and close the structure with a lid.

We attach the N/O holder to the sides of holder D using 38 mm furniture ties. After this, we pull part of the wire through the stand of the product and install the power plug.

The product will not work unless a lamp is inserted into it. In our case, we will need two light bulbs. We screw them into the product and check its functionality by inserting the plug into the network.

List of materials and parts

Examples of floor lamps