Plastic windows and armored doors, on the one hand, maintain the desired temperature in the premises, and on the other hand, they create problems with air exchange. A well-designed hood in a private home will eliminate the feeling of mustiness and condensation. In most cases, this is the only way to create a healthy microclimate in it.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the options for exhaust devices that can improve the microclimate. Together with you, we will analyze the calculations using a specific example. We describe in detail the process of installing a forced version of the hood for those who want to do the installation themselves.

The information provided is based on regulatory requirements. The information is supplemented by illustrations, step-by-step photo guides, diagrams, tables and videos.

Both in public buildings and in private houses, different types of ventilation systems are used. They differ in purpose, in the method of activating air flow and moving air masses. , designed to supply clean air to the house, is called supply air.

The design, the function of which is to remove exhaust air outside the room, is called exhaust. Ventilation with recirculation has a special mission. In this case, part of the air removed from the room is mixed with external cold air masses, with further heating of this mixture to the set temperature and return it to the room.

Air movement occurs as a result of processes that occur naturally due to the displacement of heated air with a lighter weight from the room by cold air, which has a higher volumetric weight.

The flow in such a system moves at low speed, since the weight of the warm and cold mass differs by a small amount. ventilation with natural impulse is irrational to use if its horizontal length exceeds 8 m.

More effective is a system with artificial activation of air flow, ensured by the operation of fans. The air ducts in this case are longer and can pass through several rooms. System elements are most often placed in the attic. This option is justified for large buildings.

There is a division into ducted and ductless systems. In the first case, the air moves through channels and air ducts, in the second, there is no organized air movement. In this case, you have to open the window transoms and doors. Natural ventilation creates more comfortable conditions for the residents of the house.

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A ventilation system focused on removing exhaust air mass frees up space for the intake of fresh air

According to the method of exhaust air removal, exhaust ventilation systems are divided into ducted and ductless

According to the type of inducing air flow to move, ventilation systems are natural, forced and combined. In natural versions, air moves without the use of mechanical means; in combined versions, mechanical means and the laws of physics are used

In forced versions of the exhaust ventilation device, air is removed due to the operation of a suction fan installed in the exhaust air duct

A powerful supply and exhaust system is usually located in the attic of the house. Air ducts are protected with foil thermal insulation

Forced exhaust systems are mainly used in rooms with unstable humidity and temperature. They are more than appropriate in kitchens

An exhaust fan in the bathroom will quickly reduce humidity, which will eliminate mold and protect finished building structures from destruction.

Exhaust from the basement will ensure stable foundation strength and allow the use of underground premises

Exhaust ventilation system

Duct exhaust system duct

Natural ventilation of a private house

Fan with extractor in the bathroom

Exhaust system in the attic of a house

Hood in the kitchen in a country house

Exhaust fan in bathroom

Exhaust pipe from the basement

Necessary preliminary calculations

The initial parameter for the calculation is the volume of air removed and supplied to the room. There is more than one method, but the most used ones take sanitary standards and room area as a basis.

According to the requirement of the former, it is necessary to start from the fact that the air requirement is in m 3 / h. for one person spending most of the time in the house, it depends on the purpose of the room:

• living room - 40;
• bedroom - 20;
• kitchen - 60;
• bathroom - 25.

Based on the second criterion, we proceed from the following regulatory requirement: per 1 m² of living space there must be 3 m 3 of replaced air. When calculating the cross-section of air ducts, they are guided by the fact that the optimal air speed in the central channel is 5 m/sec, and in the side channel - a maximum of 3 m/sec.

You can independently determine the pipe diameter using the formula:

S = L/3600/v,

where L is productivity, measured in m 3 / h, v is air speed in m / sec.

Data on air consumption depending on the cross-section of the air duct are summarized in the table.

The aerodynamic resistance of an air duct with a circular cross-section is less than with a square one. The square shape is more compact, fits organically into the interior of the room, and has a large range of sizes

Air ducts are made of metal, plastic, aluminum foil, polyester. The last two are flexible systems. Their noise and heat insulation characteristics are good and they are ideally suited for a private home.

Natural air exchange in the house

Natural air exchange is based on the ability of gaseous and some liquid substances with a higher temperature to rise upward. Thus, the exhaust air is naturally removed from the room through a vertically located exhaust duct, drawing in, at the same time, outside air through the supply ducts.

Natural ventilation does not always provide comfort in the house. A mixed version is often used, when in addition to natural air movement, fans are also used (+)

The ineffectiveness of supply ventilation is indicated by excess moisture in the room during cold weather or increased dryness during warm weather. The presence of a large amount of dust and lack of oxygen are also signs of insufficient air flow from the outside.

The consequence of a poor hood is that under the wallpaper, in the bathroom, soot settles on the kitchen walls, and fogged up windows.

It is easy to check the operation of the hood. It is enough to bring a sheet of paper to the ventilation grille. With good draft, it will bend towards the ventilation duct, otherwise nothing will happen. It should be concluded that the hood is clogged with something and the channel needs to be cleaned to ensure draft.

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The effectiveness of natural ventilation directly depends on the condition of the ventilation grilles and ducts. Normal air movement should not be interfered with by dust accumulations and fatty deposits.

To check the operation of the natural system hood, simply attach a sheet of paper to the grille. If it is not pressed by the air flow, the exhaust duct does not work

If you have doubts about traditional means of verification, you should contact the management company to check the system using technical means

To obtain reliable readings, measurements should be taken on a cool day. At this time, it is necessary to open the vents to allow air to enter.

Dirty ventilation grille

Indicator of a clogged ventilation duct

Technical check of ventilation operation

Conditions for control

To provide a private home with good ventilation, you need to start by calculating the air exchange. Based on its results, the cross-section of the channels, the type of ventilation system are selected and a sketch version of the ventilation scheme is made, where they indicate the locations of the passage of air ducts and the installation of ventilation equipment, the points of intake and output of the air mass.

Private houses are mainly located outside the city, where the air, unlike city air, is cleaner and there is no need for additional purification. Therefore, natural ventilation is preferable for a private home.

A big obstacle to the flow of fresh air are plastic windows, in which there are no cracks, and the glass fits very tightly to the frames.

The output is in the installation of the supply valve. It is placed on the upper frame, so the air coming from the street goes under the ceiling and only after mixing with conventional flows and acquiring room temperature, it goes down.

The location of the exhaust system elements should ensure the passage of air flow covering the entire house in the direction from “clean” rooms to those where the air is most susceptible to pollution.

According to this rule, in rooms with special conditions, which include boiler rooms, kitchens with a gas stove, basements, rooms with fireplaces and speakers, toilets, the presence of a hood is mandatory. Valves are also needed in these rooms.

The design features of the supply valve allow you to ventilate the room without creating drafts or reducing the performance characteristics of the window. In this case, condensation does not form. A slot-type valve, as in the photo, can be installed on an existing window unit

There are ventilation valves mounted on the wall. This pipe with a circular cross-section is inserted into a through hole in the wall and covered with gratings both on the inside and on the outside.

As a rule, a wall supply fan can supply 50-100 mᶾ of air per hour into the house. Based on this norm and having performed the appropriate calculation, their optimal quantity is selected

The grille located inside can be adjusted - opened and closed completely or partially. When installing, preference is given to a place near the window. Sometimes the supply valve is mounted behind the radiator and then the incoming air is immediately heated.

Requirements for ventilation of a private house

Sanitary and technical standards put forward a number of requirements for aircraft. When deciding how to make an effective hood in a private home, all points must be taken into account:

1. The inner walls of the channels must be smooth. To ensure this condition, round or rectangular air ducts of constant cross-section are inserted into them.
2. The ventilation riser at the bottom is equipped with an inspection door. It must close tightly.
3. The exhaust duct is installed on the roof with an elevation above it of at least 1.5 m. If the roof has a broken shape, then in order to avoid the occurrence of reverse draft caused by swirling flows, a deflector is installed in the exhaust duct.
4. Ventilation shaft installation. If a ventilation system was not initially provided for in the building, an attached shaft is attached to one of the walls. To improve traction it needs to be insulated.
5. Compliance with ventilation rules. You cannot combine a mechanical kitchen hood with a general air conditioner. A separate channel is arranged for it, otherwise there will be problems with the functioning of natural draft in other rooms of the house.
6. The maximum permissible distance from the ceiling to the top of the ventilation grilles is 150 mm. As this distance increases, zones of stagnant air will appear.

Doors separating adjacent rooms, even when closed, should not impede the flow of air.

The best solution is to purchase a door with a special decorative grille at the bottom. If a solid door is installed, a gap of no less than 2 cm is left between the floor and the door leaf, or a series of holes are drilled at the bottom.

The essence of the basic requirement is that the volume of air to be removed must be equal to the amount of air supplied. If this rule is not followed, then various unpleasant odors will penetrate into the room along with the air. If there is a large imbalance between the volume of incoming air and the exhaust air, drafts will appear.

Combination of ventilation with recirculation

Recirculation is called SW, when the air removed from the room is returned back through the influx with an admixture of fresh air. The disadvantage is that its use is limited by SNiP, and in regions with cold climates it does not work very effectively. Its action is limited to one room.

Recirculation allows you to save on energy consumption due to the fact that power is spent only on heating a small volume of air mass taken from the street

The recirculation system circuit can be turned into an ordinary one by closing the recirculation valve and fully opening the supply and exhaust valves. If you do the opposite, the system begins to circulate air in a circle.

When the supply and exhaust valves are only partially opened, fresh outside air will begin to be mixed in. By adjusting the degree of opening, they optimize the flow of elements that ensure comfortable life.

Installation of forced exhaust in a private house

Forced air exchange compares to natural air exchange in many respects:

1. It works regardless of the weather.
2. Cleans the air more effectively.
3. It is possible to adjust the rotation speed and power of the fans.
4. The air flow can be set in motion not only with the help of a duct fan, but also by using monoblocks, which are easy to install.

The main disadvantages are dependence on power supply and the need to periodically replace individual elements. There are several mechanisms for forced ventilation.

This can be a single supply and exhaust unit, a set-up supply system, an exhaust system, or a ducted air conditioner. The supply and exhaust SV is considered the most effective. The design includes a fan, automation, sensors, filters.

The spread of cold air in the room during supply and exhaust ventilation is prevented by a special damper located in the housing

Forced exhaust in the standard version has a single fan and is intended for small rooms. In a kit-type SV, the equipment is the same, but it is placed separately. The system capacity is in the range of 80-7,000 m 3 /h.

In large buildings it is necessary to install hoods with a capacity of 350 to 500 m 3 /h.

Kitchen hood installation technology

The hood in the kitchen is usually placed above the stove. It is necessary that the exhaust hood protrudes beyond the stove by 100-150 mm.

Performance is selected based on room parameters using the formula:

P = S x H x 12

Where the first symbol indicates the power of the second - the area of ​​the third - the height of the kitchen.

Depending on the installation method, kitchen hoods can be suspended, wall-mounted, island-mounted, built-in, and based on the type of operation they can be circulation or supply

Air ducts usually follow an indirect path, which can result in reduced exhaust power. To guarantee, 30% is added to the value obtained as a result of the calculation. The installation technology is simple, so once you understand the circuit, you can do all the work yourself.

When there is no built-in aircraft. then first make a hole in the wall, matching in diameter with the cross-section of the exhaust pipe. If you neglect this recommendation, the work will be accompanied by increased noise, and the air will come out at a lower speed.

The structure itself is located at a distance of at least 0.7 m from the surface of the electric stove and 0.8 m from the gas stove.

The next step is marking the fastening. Sometimes the hood kit includes a template, but if you don’t have one, you can use a level and tape measure. Next, fix the exhaust hood, keeping it horizontal.

The structure is connected to the previously made outlet, connected to the electrical network and tested. If the house has a gas water heater, then the ventilation pipe can be led into the chimney of the boiler or heating furnace.

The following photo selection will demonstrate the process of installing a kitchen hood with a masking dome:

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In order to bring the exhaust air duct outside, we drill the wall. We first use the attachment for drilling tiles, then the drill for brick and concrete walls

We will use a corrugated pipe to install the exhaust air duct. We try it on at the installation site and, if necessary, modify the hole

We mark the points of attachment of the dome after the fact, with the help of which we will mask the exhaust device with the air duct

We install dowels into the holes drilled according to the markings, into which we screw the screws.

We cut the corrugated exhaust duct in accordance with the required dimensions. Cutting with regular scissors

We attach the camouflage dome to its future location, check the horizontal and vertical lines and the length of the corrugation

We connect the hood inside the dome to the exhaust duct. First, slightly compress the corrugation so that it fits snugly, straightening out in the hole.

We connect the hood to the power supply and check its functionality by attaching a piece of paper to the work area

Step 1: Drilling a hole for the duct outlet

Step 2: Fitting the corrugation to the installation site

Step 3: Marking and installing attachment points

Step 4: Screwing in the mounting screws

Step 5: Trimming the corrugation to actual dimensions

Step 6: Fitting the canopy to its location

Step 7: Connecting the Exhaust Unit to the Duct

Step 8: Check the operation of the exhaust system

Forced exhaust of a bathroom in a private house

In the bathroom for forced ventilation, exhaust fans operating in a humid environment are installed:

1. supply power to the room and install an outlet;
2. a hole is made in the wall corresponding to the cross-section of the fan coupling;
3. the coupling is placed in the hole;
4. drill mounting holes;
5. connect the cable;
6. Having removed the front panel from the fan, attach the latter to the wall;
7. return the removed panel to its place;
8. a grille is attached to the outside.

It is advisable to use such a system in a bathroom located on the second floor. Typically, the air supply of this room with the obligatory presence of a ventilation shaft is included in the project. Air flow is carried out through the gap between the floor and the door, as well as through the vents.

Ventilation is needed in a private house. How to carry it out correctly in residential and utility rooms, in the basement, on the roof? Which system to choose and how to calculate the ventilation of a private house? After reading this article, you will be able to solve the problem of ventilation in a private house with your own hands.

Operating principle and types of traction

The ventilation operating principle based on natural draft is still the most popular among owners of country private houses. The operation of the system is based on physical laws: warm and humid air rushes upward, and cold air comes in its place. The owners of a private house only need to install ventilation openings for the outflow and inflow of air. The ventilation of septic tanks in private houses, sheds and cellars works on the same principle.

The widespread use of natural ventilation is explained by its accessibility and simplicity. However, the other side of the coin is job instability. Therefore, for residential premises there is a more modern solution based on the use of mechanisms:

• mechanical exhaust ventilation, the principle of operation of ventilation in a private house, in which exhaust air is discharged outside using a fan. Fresh air is sucked in through specially equipped air intake devices, open vents or cracks in the enclosing structures;
• mechanical supply ventilation, in which filtered air of the required temperature is forced into the house. Excessive pressure is created, under the influence of which the exhaust air is forced out through the exhaust ducts into the street;
• mechanical supply and exhaust system. Fully calculated ventilation of a private house with automated air exchange.

In private houses with a large area, it is advisable to organize a centralized ventilation system, in which all equipment is concentrated at a single point, and air channels disperse throughout the house.

Natural ventilation

The easiest way is to organize natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands. A vertical exhaust duct is laid from each ventilated room, which ends above the highest point of the roof of a private house. Typically, exhaust ducts are installed:

• in the kitchen and bathroom, where the release of moisture, heat and odors is maximum;
• enclosed spaces: storage rooms, dressing rooms, laundries, if they are connected to residential premises. If the doors open into the kitchen or corridor, a supply valve is mounted in the wall;
• the boiler room is equipped with a ventilation duct and a supply valve;
• in rooms separated from the nearest exhaust duct by 3 or more doors;
• starting from the second floor, if the staircase is separated by doors, ventilation ducts are pulled from the corridor or all the rooms listed earlier. If the staircase is not separated by doors, inflow valves and ventilation ducts are installed in each room.

According to the rules, it is necessary to install ventilation under the floor of a private house made of wood and a plinth, removing radon gas, which is hazardous to health, through additional channels. Ventilation under the floor is absolutely necessary for wooden private houses; this will extend the life of the floorboards and prevent them from rotting. It is useless to install exhaust ventilation ducts from the attic rooms of a private house, since a small difference in heights will not be able to provide draft.

On the contrary, the flow of fresh air needs to be organized in living rooms. The best way is to install an inlet device (valve). The intensity of the inflow can be adjusted and the house is not left without fresh air.

If there is no inflow in the house, then air will not be drawn out! This must be taken into account when organizing natural ventilation in a private house.

According to rules 55.13330.2011, in private residential buildings, ventilation must provide a single air exchange from living quarters, 60 cubic meters of air per hour from the kitchen and 25 cubic meters from the toilet and bathroom. In auxiliary rooms, the air exchange rate is 0.2 or higher per hour.

Selection of the cross-section of ventilation ducts

The smallest acceptable diameter of the air duct for natural ventilation of a private house made of brick, stone or wood is 150 mm. The cross-sectional area of ​​such a pipe is about 0.016 sq.m. If you plan to install rectangular or square air ducts for an exhaust ventilation system in a private house, the side length must be at least 100 mm. If a height difference of at least 3 meters is provided, such an air duct passes through about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. You can improve throughput by increasing one of the values:

• length of the vertical exhaust duct;
• diameter or cross-sectional area of ​​the duct.

If the length of the vertical section is less than 200 cm, there will be no traction. When carrying out ventilation in a private house, you should take into account the height and shape of the roof, the number of floors of the house and the presence of an attic.

Vertical exhaust ducts for all rooms on the same floor must be the same height. As a rule, the diameter and cross-sectional shape are also chosen to be the same; such a structure is easier to assemble.

With a small number of exhaust ducts, it is not advisable to connect horizontal air ducts to one common main; this reduces draft. It is convenient to hide the blocks in load-bearing walls, in special hollow concrete blanks. Ventilation in a private brick house can be installed in specially laid rectangular ducts 14x27 cm or square 14x14 cm.

The outer stone block of ventilation ducts is supported on a reinforced concrete slab or foundation. In light frame or wooden houses, channels are made of plastic or galvanized pipes, which are placed in a single box.

In order to increase the productivity of the channel without changing the height, it is necessary to increase its cross-sectional area. Channels made of different materials have different capacity; the smoother the internal walls, the higher it is; this must be kept in mind when calculating ventilation in a private house.

Height (cm)	Room temperature
	16	20	25	32
200	24,16	34,17	43,56	54,03
400	32,50	45,96	58,59	72,67
600	38,03	53,79	68,56	85,09
800	42,12	59,57	75,93	94,18
1000	45,31	64,06	81,69	101,32

Table 1. The performance of a stone ventilation duct with a cross-sectional area of ​​204 sq.cm.

Sewer ventilation

Ventilation of the sewer riser in a private house will prevent the spread of unpleasant gas accumulating in the pipes. To remove gases, septic tanks are also equipped with ventilation in private houses.

Rules for installing a sewer ventilation riser in a private house:

• the outlet of the exhaust air duct for sewer ventilation should be located 1 meter above the roof of a private house, it is not covered with a hood;
• if there are several sewer risers in a private house, the ventilation pipes are used the same (11 cm (for two or more floors) or 5 cm);
• it is prohibited to combine sewer ventilation of a private house and other premises;
• from the head of the exhaust pipe to the window should be at least 3.5 meters, from the ground - at least 4 m;
• It is not advisable to install the pipe under the roof overhang, since in winter it can be broken by ice.

Fermentation and decay processes constantly occur in sewer drains, helping to decompose the contents. These processes are possible only in the presence of oxygen. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the cesspool in a private house. The ventilation of the septic tank and sewerage system in a private house is carried out with plastic pipes. During design, a special channel is left for the pipe exit.

How to arrange sewer ventilation in a private house if it is impossible to install a pipe? Vacuum valves have been developed for this purpose - the device is installed in the house at the outlet of the sewer riser.

The ventilation of a septic tank in a private house is equipped with PVC pipes. The pipe for sewer ventilation in a private house is installed vertically in the roof of the septic tank and is installed half a meter above the soil level. If the cesspool in a private house has not been waterproofed, it does not require ventilation, since air penetrates through numerous cracks.

Foundation ventilation

Ventilation of the foundation of a private house is provided by a vent system. Vents are openings in the basement of a building, the number and size of which depend on the area and location of the house.

For 2.5 linear meters of walls, usually 1 vent measuring 10x15 cm or 25x30 cm is installed. If a private house is located in a low area and is not blown by winds, the ventilation of the foundation should be strengthened and the number of vents should be doubled. To prevent animals from getting into the underground, the vents are covered with nets or grates. Before the onset of cold weather, all ventilation of the foundation of a private house is blocked.

Basement ventilation

The heated basement of a private house is ventilated in the same way as any other room. An exhaust duct using natural draft or a supply valve is installed in each basement compartment. If there is a laundry room or sauna in the basement, an exhaust duct is drawn from it.

If the basement is not used, it is necessary to place supply units and one exhaust duct in the corners. It is advisable to equip cold basements with mechanical exhaust.

Ventilation of the basement floor of a private house is equipped according to the same principle. Many owners limit themselves to only the vent system. But such a floor ventilation scheme is in many cases insufficient; radioactive radon and dampness accumulate in the basement of a private house. This picture is especially common in winter, when the vents for ventilation of the basement of a private house are tightly closed.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation and ways to eliminate them

Before installing natural ventilation in a private house, consider its disadvantages:

• draft depends on the air temperature outside and in the house, the direction and strength of the wind, humidity;
• if the cross-sectional area of ​​the channels is incorrectly selected, the exhaust ventilation system in a private house will not work;
• the system is practically not regulated;
• in summer, traction may be completely absent;
• in the cold season, the draft intensifies, carrying heat out of the house. In some cases, up to 35% of heat is lost through natural ventilation;
• It is necessary to insulate natural ventilation in a private house.

Despite the shortcomings, you can make ventilation with your own hands in a private house quite effective.

It should be understood that the natural ventilation scheme in private houses that has existed for decades can only serve bathrooms and kitchens. Living rooms are ventilated mainly through open windows.

crying windows are a sign of broken ventilation

Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to ensure 2 conditions: air flow and unhindered passage of air throughout the house.

To solve the first problem, a wide range of supply valves are available on the market:

• window;
• wall

Installing a window inlet valve

Window valves are mounted on the sash; it is quite easy to install this type of supply ventilation yourself in a private house. You will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• sharp knife;
• ruler no shorter than 35 cm.

Work progress:

1. We cut out the standard seal from the fixed frame in the place where the valve is intended to be installed.
2. We install the seal that comes with the valve.
3. We mark the location of the valve on the flap; it should coincide with the replaced area.
4. We remove the seal section on the flap as well.
5. We install valve plugs into the resulting gap. They must fit entirely into the slot so that the valve can subsequently be attached to them.
6. The valve is glued to the double-sided tape and secured to the fasteners with self-tapping screws.
7. A seal is inserted between the fasteners.

Now you can check the valve in action. The window inlet valve has several advantages:

• easy to install;
• during installation, all enclosing structures remain intact and intact;
• you can regulate the intensity of the inflow or completely block it.

And there is only one drawback: in severe frosts it can freeze. But there are branded models that do not have this drawback. You will have to pay more for them.

Another model of window valve is the handle valve. A very convenient device, the installation of which will have to be entrusted to a specialist.

Installation of a wall supply valve

A wall valve is also a fairly convenient solution for natural supply ventilation of a private house. It operates without a power source, is equipped with noise insulation and a filter, and, thanks to its labyrinthine shape, reduces the speed of air movement.

However, ease of installation and low price make these devices very popular. When choosing a valve, you should pay attention to the operating temperature range, as well as the dimensions of the indoor module and the flow capacity. As a rule, a valve is installed between the heating radiator and the window sill. So the cold air first falls on the radiator, warms up, and only then enters the room. Therefore, it is important to determine the size of the device. A fairly popular location for placing the valve is at the top of the wall near the window.

Necessary tools for installing a fresh air ventilation valve in a private house:

• a hammer drill with a special attachment for drilling holes. You can get by with a thick drill, but the process will be more labor-intensive;
• sealant;
• level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• sharp knife.

The main disadvantage of wall supply valves that stops many: to install the valve, you need to make a through hole in the wall.

The supply valve usually consists of an internal module, an air duct and an external grille. Progress of work on installing the supply wall device:

1. Disassemble the valve, if it was sold assembled, and mark the location of the air duct on the wall.
2. Drill a hole of the required diameter (see instructions for the device). The ventilation pipe should have a slight slope towards the street to allow condensation and raindrops to drain.
3. The duct is wrapped in thermal insulation (sometimes it is sold already insulated) and inserted into the duct. Outside, the tube should be flush with the wall; inside the house, leave about 1 cm of protrusion.
4. We fasten the housing inside the house, having previously installed insulation and filters one by one.
5. We attach a protective grille to the outside.

The operation of the valve is regulated by a damper. At least once a year (if the house is located in nature), the device must be disassembled and cleaned, otherwise its throughput and filtration quality will decrease.

Installation of overflow grids

Now it's time to pay attention to the movement of air flow around the house. For it to pass freely, there must be a gap at least 3 centimeters high under each interior door. If interior doors are equipped with thresholds and are tightly closed, it is necessary to install cross-flow grilles.

In each door, the total area of ​​the openings for the unhindered movement of air must be at least 200 cubic meters for residential premises. cm.

The minimum size of the grille in the doors of any room equipped with a natural exhaust ventilation channel is 800 cubic cm. The flow grilles are made of aluminum alloys and consist of two frames between which horizontal blinds are attached. Transfer grilles are convenient because, while leaving air free to move, they block the access of light and sound to the room. If installing grilles is impossible for some reason, there is a simple and effective solution: holes are drilled in the bottom of the door and covered with ventilation rings. The rings can be simple, equipped with a mesh, or sound-absorbing.

If there are more than 2 doors with overflow openings or grilles between the inflow point and the exhaust duct, the air movement will be slowed down.

And the most budget option is undercutting the door. A strip of 3-4 cm is cut from the lower part, the cut is sealed with an end edging. This scheme is not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms, as it does not provide sufficient insulation of the room.

Supplementing natural ventilation with mechanical elements

Exhaust fans in ventilation ducts and hoods in kitchens significantly improve the performance of natural ventilation in a private brick house. They are good when you need to clear the air of excess moisture or odors in a short time. Intensive work is accompanied by noise and quite high electricity consumption.

Characteristic	Model
	Systemair	Vortice	Electrolux	Polar Bear
Productivity (cubic m/hour)	83	85	100
Rotation speed (rpm)	2000			1400
Power, W)	15	15	15	40
Noise level dB	48	31	33	45
Additional options	sleep timer	Off timer, check valve	sleep timer
Manufacturer country	Sweden	Italy	Sweden	Sweden

Table 2. Characteristics of domestic exhaust fans from leading manufacturers

Keep in mind: the presence of a fan in the ventilation duct seriously impairs draft. Incorrect connection of the hood also negatively affects the natural exhaust ventilation system in a private house. The exhaust grille must remain open! There are special grilles on sale with a separate socket for connecting the exhaust air duct. But the exhausted air can instantly enter the kitchen through the grille. Therefore, for a private house, the optimal solution is to make the exhaust outlet autonomous, directly to the street. It is equipped with a check valve to prevent cold air from entering the room.

Supply and exhaust mechanical ventilation

Owners of large and comfortable houses often install fully automated supply and exhaust ventilation. Its advantages are obvious:

• all indoor air indicators will clearly correspond to the calculated ones;
• equipment operates without human presence;
• In case of failures, the system will signal the reasons.

Supply equipment supplies air, having previously prepared it. At the same time, an exhaust hood works with it, removing waste air masses.

The supply and exhaust unit is usually installed in the attic, and air ducts radiate from it throughout the house. Since the equipment is quite bulky, it is advisable to design it in advance. Then during construction you can plan openings, niches and highways for placement. Due to the complexity and large size of such installations, they are not assembled independently.

Ventilation insulation

We examined the question of how to install ventilation in a private house, but did not touch upon an important point. Some sections of the ventilation of a private house must be insulated. This applies to sections of air ducts passing through cold rooms, attics, and the street. If thermal insulation is neglected, condensation will settle on the pipe walls. Galvanized air ducts will fail faster; in frosty weather, moisture freezes, the clearance of the pipe decreases and ventilation stops working.

Therefore, insulation of ventilation in a private house is mandatory. The pipe outlet through the wall must be done through an insulated sleeve.

• Minvata cheap, doesn't burn. At the same time, it is difficult to install and falls off over time;
• Foam “shells” easy to install, inexpensive and durable. Moreover, in the event of a fire, they burn like gunpowder;
• PPU or polypropylene “shells” a little more expensive than polystyrene foam, but more durable;

Due to the variety of layouts and operational conditions of country real estate, in each case, individual ventilation in a private house is designed with your own hands. The scheme must ensure the minimum permissible air exchange rate. In a kitchen with a four-burner stove, used air must be replaced with new air at an intensity of 90 cubic meters every hour. In living rooms, 30 cubic meters per person is enough, or air exchange three times per hour of the entire volume. Read more in this material.

Country cottage ventilation diagram

To reduce the operating budget, natural ventilation is usually used in a private house with your own hands, the diagram of which is presented below. The principle of air exchange in it is as follows:

• street air enters the premises through the cracks of window blocks;
• heats up and moves naturally under the doors to the bathroom and kitchen;
• in functional rooms (kitchen + bathroom), ventilation ducts are installed inside the main walls, through which waste air masses are removed due to natural draft.

Such a do-it-yourself ventilation scheme in a private house has significant drawbacks:

• modern window units (double-glazed windows inside a PVC profile) are absolutely sealed;
• To improve the sound insulation of rooms, undercutting of door panels is not used, which disrupts the exchange inside the premises.

Therefore, supply valves are used, embedded in window blocks, or ventilation of rooms with open transoms and vents. Sometimes it is advisable to install supply fans or heat exchangers into external walls.

If standard ventilation ducts do not provide sufficient draft, do-it-yourself exhaust ventilation is used in a private house, the diagram of which is also available below. The main disadvantage of forced ventilation systems is their energy dependence.

Helpful information! Axial and centrifugal fans installed inside ventilation ducts and permanent external walls are electrically driven. Power outages can only be compensated for by expensive generators, batteries or UPS (uninterruptible power supply) sources.

General information about organizing ventilation in the house (video)

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In a separate publication we will talk about the principles of organizing high-quality ventilation in an apartment and the correct selection of equipment.

System composition, step-by-step installation

It will help when designing ventilation in a private house with your own hands, a diagram and preparation of a set of drawings with floor plans. The main element of any ventilation system is the air duct:

• ventilation duct - made only inside brick walls;
• box - made of steel sheet, polymer materials, ceramics, concrete products.

Exhaust air ducts have the maximum cross-section. For example, for a single air exchange in a cottage of 300 square meters with natural air exchange, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 35 cm or a channel 40 x 25 cm. Such structures can be made without problems inside brickwork.

If the house is built from other structural materials, problems automatically arise with the placement and decoration of pipes or boxes of such large sizes. Therefore, the cross-section of the air duct is reduced, forced ventilation is designed in a private house (the diagram can also be done with your own hands without problems when studying the basic requirements of regulatory documentation).

How to organize ventilation?

To renew air masses in a private house, supply ventilation is first used. It’s not difficult to draw up a diagram with your own hands, once you understand the layout and features of your home. There are several types of ventilation that are not equally beneficial for the microclimate of interiors:

• the door + windows are open – the air is renewed within 5 minutes, but harmful drafts are formed;

• a transom or window is slightly open - complete replacement of exhaust air masses with new ones occurs in 40-60 minutes, but the slopes and window blocks cool down, and condensation may form;

• windows are open - this option is the best, since in 10 minutes the structures do not have time to cool down, the air in the room is completely renewed.

But it is extremely inconvenient for residents to ventilate every hour. Therefore, a saving solution if you do not want to install a full-fledged air supply system are wall/window valves.

Ensuring inflow

Window valves come in several varieties. To install some models, it is necessary to mill an oval slot in the PVC profile in use. This is reflected in the strength of the window block (the profile is reinforced with foil, inside of which it is not recommended to make large holes), and sound insulation.

Slot valves of the overhead type are more convenient to install. To do this, it is enough to remove the seal in a separate area (usually the upper part of the transom) and screw on the valve body.

In high-performance modifications of supply-type valves, the external air intake is connected to the internal adjustment mechanism by a telescopic chamber. The valve element, installed indoors, has a filter, outlet nozzles, and a labyrinthine duct system.

Helpful information! All supply-type window valves are non-volatile. They will not work in buildings with leaky door and window units, or in the absence of 2 cm gaps under the interior door leaves.

The capacity of window valves is usually sufficient for residential premises. However, in kitchens with 4-burner gas stoves and ovens, these devices cannot provide the required air exchange for these rooms. Therefore, wall valves are installed with the following design:

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Conventional valves are mounted above the registers so that the winter air is warmed by rising convection currents. The recuperators use a “pipe in pipe” scheme, so the incoming masses are warmed by the outgoing flows. They are installed in any convenient place, regardless of the location of the batteries or walls.

More complex are ventilation systems using. Boxes or pipes are passed inside the spaces of suspended/stretch ceilings, releasing pipes in separate areas of the room.

Helpful advice! When organizing forced inflow by fans, the built-in ventilation ducts of a natural ventilation system are guaranteed to be unable to cope with the removal of large volumes of exhaust “dirty” air. Therefore, it will be necessary to install exhaust fans inside them.

If supply ventilation in a private house is built with your own hands, the diagram is no less important than calculating the cross-section of the air ducts. The main recommendations for the home handyman are:

• hoods are installed in the “dirtiest” rooms (high humidity, odors, thermal radiation);
• air flow must be organized from the furthest room in relation to the kitchen and bathroom;
• For this purpose, grilles or slots in the door panels or under them are used.

Do-it-yourself forced supply ventilation in a private house, the diagram and composition of which is given below, consists of complex elements:

• Comfort of living when the electrical equipment is turned on is ensured by a noise suppressor (muffler);
• circulation is created by a fan;
• the intake air is heated by a heater;
• filters purify the street air;
• valves regulate the flow;
• the distribution of masses within the system is carried out by diffusers and grilles.

Recuperators are responsible for energy saving and reduction of heat loss, but are effective up to certain outdoor temperatures. Therefore, in cold weather, air heaters are additionally turned on. In summer, recuperators operate in air conditioning mode by default, reducing the load on the cottage's climate control equipment.

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What is this device? How does it work? What are its advantages? Is it difficult to install it yourself? We will answer these and other questions in a special publication. Read!

With a large working area of ​​a country home, air exchange can reach 600-800 cubic meters every hour. Powerful, large equipment requires space for placement and maintenance. Therefore, either special rooms inside the house, underground, or an unused attic are used.

Helpful information! The minimum flow resistance is observed in tubular air ducts. But rectangular ventilation ducts are easier to attach to supporting structures and camouflage under false panels and ceilings. Flexible corrugated pipes are used in short sections where several complex bends are required.

Thus, a home craftsman can design and install natural and forced ventilation systems in a country home on his own without the involvement of specialists. This will provide a comfortable microclimate and reduce illness among family members, but will require knowledge of regulatory documentation and construction skills.

How to properly ventilate your home (video)

The issue of ventilation of premises with the advent of plastic windows has become relevant due to the almost complete sealing of buildings. In cold conditions, this is not so bad, but in an unventilated room, mold, mildew, and pathogenic bacteria grow and it becomes unsuitable for comfortable living.

When building a private house with your own hands, at the design stage you can and should consider how it will be ventilated. After completion of construction work, solving this problem will be difficult, and in some cases impossible.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation is divided into three types:

Natural ventilation

occurs due to the property of warm layers of air to rise above cold ones. It involves laying ventilation ducts in the walls of the house through which air circulates. For a fireplace or stove, the air duct is made separately. The pipe should rise above the ridge, this will give additional traction.

The ventilation duct must be at least one and a half brick thick, and its cross-section must exceed 140 mm in order to avoid the reverse draft effect. 100 mm horizontal bends are made into the rooms, using plastic pipes.

The disadvantages of natural ventilation are the dependence on weather conditions - both temperature and pressure, as well as the low performance of the system. Its use makes sense in buildings made of expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood, provided the ambient air is clean.

Suitable for small private low-rise houses, baths, saunas, outbuildings. Below is a typical ventilation diagram in a private house.

Forced or supply and exhaust ventilation

It is used in cases where the air needs to be cleaned of odors, dirt and dust particles, as well as in rooms with “non-breathable” walls made of concrete with polystyrene, SIP and 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, in all types of frame houses. Supply ventilation uses a fan to create a pressure difference, a filter for cleaning the air entering the house and a recuperator, a device for heating the incoming flow.

It is recommended to use a different fan for each room in the house. For garages and boiler rooms, it is necessary to make a separate hood to avoid harmful substances from entering other rooms. The most intense ventilation should be in the kitchen, since the air there not only heats up, but also has a characteristic smell.

Mixed ventilation

Used when natural ventilation cannot provide sufficient air flow. As a rule, the hood is installed in rooms where condensation collects, the air is polluted, or where it is necessary to remove the smell - in the bathroom, basement, cellar, toilet, boiler room, as well as in the kitchen.

Usually, with a mixed ventilation device in private houses, only air inflow is forced, and outflow occurs naturally, or only part of the premises is ventilated. The use of a mixed ventilation system in large private wooden brick, foam block and stone houses is also justified.

Sanitary standards

Fresh air consumption per healthy adult is about 10 m3 per hour. If there is no oxygen flow, the well-being of people in the room worsens - drowsiness and headaches appear. This is due to the increased concentration of carbon dioxide in the air.

According to the standards in force since the 50s of the last century, for rooms up to 20 m2 with a ceiling height below 3 meters, the air composition must be completely renewed within an hour, that is, the air exchange rate is at least 20 * 3 = 60 m3 per hour . If the volume of the room exceeds 60 m3, then in a simplified form the air exchange rate is considered to be 3 m3/hour per 1 m3 of room volume. For toilets the norm is 50 m3/hour, for bathrooms 25 m3/hour, and for kitchens 90 m3/hour.

When building private houses, many people think that they will get by with ventilating the windows and do not do ventilation in the hope of saving money. Make no mistake about this - the atmosphere in the building in such cases will be very unhealthy. As a result, the treatment of respiratory diseases may cost significantly more money than what is saved.

In addition, there is such a radioactive inert gas - radon, which accumulates on the first floors of buildings. Also, if ventilation is not carried out regularly, the room will have variable humidity and temperature.

Features of installation in various rooms

When installing ventilation in the kitchen, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• the width of the slab and the exhaust dome must correspond to each other;
• the air in the kitchen should be completely renewed 6-12 times per hour;
• the distance between the stove and the hood should be 60-90 cm.

In the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the increased humidity in the room and based on this:

• there should be no supply openings to prevent steam from flowing from the bathroom into other rooms;
• all wiring must be moisture-resistant or corrugated, the contacts must be carefully insulated;
• It is recommended to install a gyrostat to automate the operation of exhaust ventilation.

• the hole for ventilation is made as high as possible, ideally on the ceiling;
• it is advisable to combine the switch for lighting and for the hood so that they turn on simultaneously;
• the exhaust power must ensure a system capacity of at least 50 m3 for a separate toilet, and for a bathroom combined with a bathroom - at least 75 m3;
• when the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom are located at the same level, they are combined into one air duct.

In basements, both natural and forced ventilation are used. If the basement is small, up to 50 m2, then it is quite possible to get by with natural air circulation.

Criteria for correct ventilation arrangement

• air is discharged from the ventilation duct on the roof;
• air intake in the forced system is made through a grille located at a level of 2-3 meters from the ground;
• air circulation is carried out from cleaner rooms to dirtier ones - from bedrooms and living rooms towards the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler rooms.
• forced ventilation in the kitchen is mandatory, especially where there are gas water heaters;
• All rooms in the building must be ventilated;
• the air in the house should not cool too quickly, there should be no strong drafts;
• Condensation should not form on the walls and ceilings, and odors from the premises should quickly disappear.

Based on the above criteria, a decision is made on the advisability of using forced, mixed or natural ventilation.

Photo of ventilation in a private house

Properly executed ventilation of a private house with your own hands consists of several components, including installation of an exhaust system in the kitchen, bathroom and pantry. In addition, mandatory actions include arranging an influx of fresh air masses into the living rooms of the building.

There are often cases when the most basic ventilation is enough, but this mostly applies to the winter period. As for the summer heat, this method will no longer work; it is necessary to take more radical measures, one of which will be the ventilation of a private house.

Ventilation is usually installed according to a personal project, which is usually specially developed for one or another house. It is best for ventilation to be installed at the construction stage of the building. At the same time, it may well be installed on an already erected building. How to make ventilation in a private house will be discussed in this article.

Whatever the ventilation system is made, it must meet a number of requirements. So, it is distinguished by the following qualities:

• Silent operation must be ensured;
• Ideally, this is a fairly economical design;
• The operation of the system is characterized by its uninterrupted operation;
• Excellent efficiency.

Only when all the above qualities are present can we talk about the productivity of the system. Separately, it is worth mentioning the organization of ventilation in buildings equipped with plastic windows. Due to the highest level of tightness of this kind of buildings, natural ventilation processes are prevented.

Let's look at different situations depending on the type of home, including the following:

1. Wooden house;
2. Frame building;
3. Other types of residential buildings.

Ventilation of suburban buildings

If you have a one-story country house made of wood, then installing ventilation in a private house of this type is quite feasible in a natural way. It is also worth noting that a wooden building is characterized by its ability to excellently maintain temperature in the summer. If we are talking about the cold season, then the stove will be able to warm up the air in the room, and remove the exhaust air masses outside the house.

As you can see, we don’t have much trouble here, since natural ventilation takes place. This is one of the key features of a country house. The same cannot be said about a frame building, especially if it is equipped with modern plastic windows.

Ventilation of frame buildings

To some extent, the disadvantage of a frame house is that its walls are completely sealed and cannot “breathe”. In cases where there is a small building, a ventilation system in a private house is not a prerequisite, since the problem of ensuring the proper level of ventilation can be solved by installing windows equipped with a special micro-ventilation mode, but this solution cannot always be considered optimal.

Let us also consider another method according to which the problem under consideration can be solved. It consists of installing a supply and exhaust ventilation unit. The method under consideration involves the forced removal of air outside the room. Then the ventilation device in a private house of this type provides for the supply of fresh air from the street. It goes through cleaning filters and can be cooled or heated if desired.

As for the ventilation ducts, in most cases they are passed inside the walls and ceilings. In this regard, even during the design stage, it is necessary to decide what type of ventilation will be used in a particular building; it is worth considering its design in advance.

The ventilation system can be made using another technology, which is also often used when arranging ventilation for a frame-type house. As for the principle of its operation, it provides for the removal of exhaust air masses through the use of special fans. The latter are placed in the attic. You can do the ventilation in a private house yourself; you just need to correctly place the sensors that determine the composition of the air within the room. Thus, greater air pollution will lead to more intensive operation of the system.

The entry of air masses occurs through specialized valves, which are located either on the walls or on the windows. As the intensity of the exhaust of generated air masses increases, the valve of the supply system opens with greater force. The same thing happens the other way around.

Ventilation of a residential building

As for the operating principle of ventilation, it should be chosen personally, depending on each specific case. If you decide to carry out such a component as ventilation of a private house with your own hands, then it is recommended to first consult with a specialist. At a minimum, you should familiarize yourself with the theoretical aspects.

Many people choose to install natural ventilation, since this method is characterized by its cheapness and simplicity. At the same time, it can be called effective only if there is a noticeable difference between the air temperature inside the room and outside. With a small difference, the effectiveness is called into question. And if the difference is excessively large, then the room will quickly fill with excessively cold air, which will increase heating costs.

Ventilation operation when using heat from the heating system

In order to ensure successful and stable operation of such systems, the air mass should be taken mechanically. This is done through a hole made in the wall. The air that was previously pumped is accumulated within a chamber of a certain volume. From this chamber, heated air should be directed into the room using a fan.

In this case, bathroom ventilation in a private house can remove air naturally through ventilation holes. A forced method of removing air masses can also be arranged; this would require a fan.

Arranging a ventilation system in a private home is always not the easiest thing. To carry it out, you need to prepare well, read specialized literature, etc. In addition, all operations must be carried out in accordance with technological requirements. Remember that you are ventilating a residential building, not a greenhouse with vegetables, and this requires some effort, both physical and mental. We wish you good luck in all your endeavors and hope that this article will definitely be useful to you in the future.