Floor slabs with adjustable posts
Disadvantages of adjustable floors
Characteristics of adjustable ground on logs
Possibility of selecting adjustable soil
Types of floors with adjustable brackets
Floor design with adjustable flags
Floor coverings with adjustable supports
Tips for Installing Adjustable Foot Structures

Modern flooring options include adjustable flooring in the latest designs.

The day system, installed on mobile brackets, makes the floor surface completely flat with minimal physical effort.

Manufacturers produce several versions of so-called “adjustable floors,” depending on the purpose of the specific space, the design height of the floor covering, and the condition in which the underlay is placed.

If it is necessary to raise the floor level to the desired height in order to accommodate various services below the surface, a DNT structure with adjustable footrests can be installed. They ensure not only perfect uniformity of floor coverings of all materials, but also allow the installation of a frame when the floors between the floors in the house are wooden elements.

The upper form is capable of raising the covering to a height of 5 centimeters or more, which depends on the cross-section of the logs and the dimensions of the polymer screws. The system can be attached to a wood or cement floor or other type of foundation.

When it is necessary to solve the problem of leveling rough ground without losing the height of the space, the adjustable bottom structure on the plates can be adjusted.

It is used to prepare the base for laying, for example laminated or parquet panels, provided that the difference in height does not exceed 2 mm with 2 linear meters. The maximum amount of lifting of the floor covering in this case does not exceed 5 centimeters, which corresponds to the thickness of a standard concrete screed.

The parameters of the adjustable DNT structures allow you to create a strong and durable floor for a short time, characterized by excellent thermal and sound insulation of the room. In this case, there is no need to deal with dusty and wet processes, as in the case of installing cement sand. The DNT system costs no more than traditional leveling options such as semi-dry or concrete screeds or Knauff flooring.

If the soil rises 2 inches or more, you can save a lot by preparing a rough base for finishing.

Disadvantages of adjustable floors

As for the disadvantages of this design, they may arise if the requirements for proper operation were not met during installation.

With high quality installation, DNT adjustable floors provide a reliable and durable base for all finished flooring materials. It will not only be possible to move on foot, but also to travel by car.

If the DNT system is not properly assembled or the adjustable flag fasteners are of the wrong type, the soil will become unusable within a short period of time.

Characteristics of adjustable ground on logs

The structural solution of such floors has the following characteristics:

1. It is possible to create adjustable floors on logs with your own hands without experienced craftsmen.

   How to make adjustable floors

   You just need to buy quality materials and supplies of some tools.

2. Floors will not exceed one or two days. In exchange for dry concrete it will take about a month.
3. The adaptive design allows, if necessary, to install utility lines in a technologically free space.

   This allows for space-saving and at the same time impervious floor coverings.

4. Using an adjustable system, you can significantly increase the sound insulation of a room, which is why in recent years such floors have been installed not only in residential buildings, but also in recording studios and concert halls.
5. Simply weigh similar structures to use them successfully in areas where they are poorly covered, such as private homes or balconies.
6. There is almost no work associated with dust and dirt during the adjustment of adjustable floors.

   This is why this option is an ideal solution for areas where cleanliness is required.

7. As shown in the picture, the adjustable floor system is capable of carrying a load of about 2.5 tons per square meter, which means that it can be installed in various types of offices - office, residential, warehouse, commercial.

Possibility of selecting adjustable soil

Although adjustable structures have many benefits, many property owners are hesitant to install them during renovations.

• if the rough ground is difficult or impossible to regulate because it has great differences and shortcomings;
• when leveling the substrate, for many technical reasons you cannot use materials with high weight;
• If the floor covering is to be created with different heights;
• when utilities must be placed underground;
• if there is a need for additional noise and thermal insulation.

Types of floors with adjustable brackets

In the modern market, consumers are offered two types of flooring:

• Structure containing adjustable floor coverings;
• floor systems with adjustable brackets.

The main difference between these varieties is the difference in height.

When installing systems on logs, the amount of lift is 5 centimeters or more. As for the adjustable plate design, it can be raised by a maximum of 3 centimeters.

Installation work related to the installation of adjustable systems on logs and boards is carried out using similar technology that allows you to do it yourself.

Floor design with adjustable flags

The seals for them are made from plan rays.

The size of wooden elements usually does not exceed 50x50 centimeters. First you need to prepare your tools and building materials.

To install the floor, you need:

• lags behind the rods;
• level;
• polymer screws;
• nails with dowels;
• hammer;
• drilling.

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out:

1. Clean the base.

   If necessary, build utility lines.

2. Tighten the wood screws. If there are threaded holes on the rods, the screw is screwed into the adjustable log stand.

   Otherwise they must be executed independently. At least 5 holes must be made at a distance of 2 meters. This simple operation is performed by drilling with a flared top. To ensure installation rigidity, it is necessary to drill slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt.

3. After hand tensioning, tighten the screws with a drill and special nozzle.

During the installation phase, the following measures are taken:

1. Wooden sticks are scattered on the ground.

   In this case, the difference between them depends on the type of floor area. When the floor plan is covered with linoleum or slab, the distance between the beams should be up to 30 centimeters. Leave at least an inch of space between flags and walls to ensure proper ventilation.

2. Once the adjustment of the adjustable log is complete, proceed to firmly attach the screws to the rough surface. Take a solid drill bit and make a hole about 4cm long through the post in the concrete.
3. The spindle was then secured into it and driven with a hammer, securing the bolt to the bottom of the floor.

   The hole must be securely fastened so that the structure does not move.

During the surface smoothing process:

1. Once the adjustable full clamps are installed around the perimeter of the space and secured securely, they begin to repair them.

   This applies a rule and a key that needs to be adapted.

2. Let's break down to a height that should not exceed 1-2 millimeters. Using the wrench and focusing on the measurements, we begin to raise or lower the screws as they strive for perfect alignment.

At the final stage, complete the following tasks:

1. Once the adjustable flags are leveled by hand, the nails are finally secured with a hammer.
2. On stands that are cut with a knife or other tools to cut out unnecessary residue.
3. Where necessary, sound or thermal insulation materials are placed between the logs.
4. On logs, or better yet, on top, fix the floor.

   The choice of materials depends on the purchased flooring. Typically the flooring is made from slabs made from plywood, rarely using DSP or GVL slabs, with linoleum or laminate on top.

5. Directly on the floor for adjustable installation of the final floor covering.

Floor coverings with adjustable supports

This option is used if the height of the floor surface does not exceed 3 centimeters.

In such a narrow space it is unlikely that communications can be hidden, but telephone cable and Internet wiring will be available. This type of installation technology is similar to the procedure for installing adjustable floors on logs.

It is necessary to prepare a set of adjustable presses on plates, consisting of sheets of plywood (other building material), posts, bushes, self-tapping screws.

You will also need: a hammer, a drill, a level (water or laser).

The work begins with the preparatory stage:

1. Prepare the work surface, remove debris, dust, and dirt. Then separate the messages that need to be removed underground, remembering that the height of the floor surface should not exceed 3 cm.
2. The leaves are located along the perimeter of the space at a distance of 2-3 centimeters on each side.
3. Mark the points for drilling holes.

   If it has a 1.5 x 1.5 meter sheet, it should be approximately 9. One of the holes should be placed in the middle of the plywood or other material. Four holes rotate in each corner and 4 in the middle of the sheet. For this reason, a reliable plywood connection can be ensured.

Installation of panels should be carried out in the following order:

1. After marking the holes on the plates, they begin to drill.

   Use a special drill bit with an extended tip.

2. The pre-prepared holes have screws with spacers, and on the underside they attach the bushings using self-tapping screws.
3. Once the screws are inserted into each of the holes and secured, the sheet is reversed and placed on the structure.
4. Using the screw holes in the hole, drill holes and insert dowels into them.

   They lead them halfway.

At the adaptation stage, the following measures are taken:

1. When the adjustable support is installed, the sheets are leveled. This work is done using a level and a special key.
2. After finishing, carefully cut off additional centimeters.
3. One-inch nails are driven completely into the base.

Proceed to the final stage:

1. If there is a need to improve noise and thermal insulation of the soil, suitable materials are placed at the top of the sheet.
2. Once the sheets are assembled, the selected flooring is installed.

Tips for Installing Adjustable Foot Structures

To successfully install this type of flooring system, you will need to:

1. Once the adjustment of the adjustable brackets is complete, the subfloor must be cleaned before laying the floor.

   The fact that uncleaned debris, plastic cutouts, sawdust from the last floor covering can lead to pulleys and noise.

2. All fasteners for the floor structure should be carefully tapped and tightened as this is critical to the strength and reliability of the system.
3. Experts recommend installing both a fastener and an anchor for an adjustable floor.

   This is the same dowel, but stronger. Anchors provide a secure and permanent connection. They not only hold the stick in place, but at the same time attract it to the ground, which, in addition to being rigid, also transmits rigidity.

4. When a high floor is constructed, the best solution is to place the wrists made of soundproof materials.

   There was no noise during operation of the coating.

5. You don't have to maintain product quality if you want to create a regulated structure. From the financial side, it will be more profitable to immediately buy an expensive component than to process all the work again.

If you need to move the link after installation is complete, a few strips of cover can be removed and then put back on.

Adjustable floors

Often, people associate floors with joists with something old, creaky, rotting and obsolete.

Of course, there are now many advanced technologies for floors that make it possible to insulate, waterproof and raise the floor level to a greater height, if the design requires it. However, one should not exclude good old logs - the solution is simple and, with high-quality installation, will eliminate the disadvantages typical of such floors.

Advantages of adjustable joists

The most undeniable advantages of adjustable floors are the ability to raise the floor level to a greater height without increasing the overall weight of the structure and the speed of installation, in comparison with various screeds and self-leveling floors.

The big advantage is that there are no wet processes and therefore no need for drying. Insulation of such floors also does not cause any problems - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, all these materials are acceptable. In comparison with self-leveling, floating screeds, the insulation does not have high requirements for insulation density and it is possible to select a budget material.

When pouring screeds up to 5-10 centimeters thick, the advantages of lags are not relevant, however, situations often arise when the floor level needs to be raised by 15 centimeters or more. Such heights may be required when there is a large difference in floor slabs, during partial renovation of an apartment, where it is necessary to join the old floor on joists.

Of course, there are screeds with the addition of expanded clay, various floating screeds that allow you to raise the floor level and at the same time insulate.

As a rule, the cost of materials and work increases, and if a 5-centimeter screed is 1.5-2 times cheaper than an adjustable floor, then with layers of more than 10 centimeters, the cost of the lag remains the same, which cannot be said about wet screeds.

Flaws

The disadvantages of flooring with joists include the risk that the floor will creak; in an aggressive, humid environment, wood is not so durable. The issue of squeaking is practically reduced to zero when choosing high-quality, dried logs and the correct fasteners.

Many people are confused by the possibility of laying tiles on such floors - this problem can be solved, the joists are installed in sufficient quantities to eliminate significant deflections in the canvas, and gypsum fiber is laid over the canvas.

Gypsum fiber serves as a damper; even with large fluctuations in the size of the canvas due to changes in humidity, gypsum fiber is quite stable and does not provoke the tile to snap.

The material of the canvas laid on the joists is quite diverse: from the most budget chipboard to two-layer plywood. Planed boards, lining and OSB - you see, a very wide choice for flooring with joists.

How to make a level floor on adjustable joists with your own hands

Results

Let's summarize: in renovations where standard screeds and self-leveling floors do not cause high loads on the floor and the layers are quite thin, adjustable joists are not relevant.

Where it is necessary to raise the floor level by 10+ centimeters, logs become a very practical solution. High-quality installation is important; it will prevent squeaking, sagging and other problems typical of wooden floors.

Self-installation of adjustable joists

Companies involved in adjustable floors exaggerate their professionalism and the uniqueness of their technology. I will try to dispel some myths, because I worked in this field for several years.

Let's look at the important points in installation.

Anchors, fasteners

To attach the logs to the concrete base, it is the anchors that are needed; plastic dowels are not able to cope with the loads to which the logs are subjected.

The so-called plastic bushings, which are screwed into the joist and attached to the concrete, are very inconvenient to install; they can only be purchased from those who professionally install floors. Naturally very expensive. In addition, they have questionable reliability; the bushing is attached to the concrete base with a dowel-nail.

The most reliable fasteners can be assembled yourself, despite the cunning marketing of “sex companies”. However, the components for the rack are usually available in most stores.

So, homemade fasteners for adjustable joists. The base is an expansion anchor (drive-in), it holds tightly in the concrete and is easy to install, it can be made of steel or brass, the anchor expands due to a screw-in bolt.

Brass is preferable. The product is suitable for M10 or M8 threads; other components are selected based on the selected diameter. The next element is a bolt with a diameter suitable for the anchor and a corresponding length; the higher the logs need to be raised, the longer. Instead of a bolt, you can take long studs and cut them to the desired length, but you need a special tool to screw in the studs.

Two nuts with washers (preferably reinforced) are screwed onto the bolt, and the joist is actually clamped between these nuts/washers.

The resulting fastener is very reliable and easy to use.

It does not pull out even if the joists were made of raw wood, the joist guides it when it dries, and the anchor holds it.

Lags

Usually a 50 by 40 mm block is used, but if the height allows, you can take a thicker block. In thicker bars, fasteners to the base can be used less frequently.

As a standard, a 3-meter log is attached to 7 anchors. The logs are set at intervals of 30-40 cm, depending on the material of the covering sheets.

The logs should be chosen drier and without too many bends and screws. The worse the lag is dried, the greater the likelihood of squeaking in the future. Ideally, dry, planed bars, planed after drying, are suitable, but finding them is not always easy. Usually, stores sell bars that are planed “wet” and then dried naturally; they have a bent shape. You can use them, but you should carefully choose those that are smoother.

Let me note that the logs do not have to be planed and smooth, preferably straight and not “screwed”. You should also avoid knots; if the hole with the anchor hits a knot, the joist will significantly lose its strength.

Prepared logs can be treated with an antifungal compound; this will not interfere in potentially damp areas.

How to cover logs

Materials can be varied, from rough to finishing. For subsequent finishing, you can lay a regular edged board - this option is more suitable for a private home.

Sheet materials are suitable for both private and apartment buildings. It can be plywood, chipboard, OSB. All these materials are considered rough, with subsequent installation of linoleum, laminate and parquet boards. With additional gypsum fiber flooring, tiles are laid.

The finishing coating includes floorboards and lining.

Their further finishing consists of sanding and painting (although it is often useful to do this before installation).

As a sheet material, I would like to mention plywood - it is strong, durable and tolerates moisture well. Due to the different orientations of the veneer layers, plywood is less susceptible to variations in size.

There is, however, one unpleasant drawback: in most cases, the thickness of the sheets may differ slightly by 1-2 mm, and the difference may be present at different ends of the same sheet. Because of this difference, for linoleum flooring, for example, you will have to putty the seams. However, despite this, plywood is considered the best material for adjustable floors - 10 mm plywood in two layers is the most durable solution.

Plywood no thinner than 18 mm is placed in one layer.

Preparing the base

A concrete base is required to securely fasten the anchors. Typically, in commercials, fasteners for joists are installed in a perfectly leveled cement-sand screed (CSS). But the reality is that for real work leveling the base is not required, moreover, usually the screed does not have sufficient strength to reliably hold the anchor.

If in your case the installation will be carried out for some reason on the central fiber substation, then you should drill down to the concrete. Or check the strength of your tie by tightening a test anchor.

Preparation consists of cleaning, foaming and caulking various cracks to avoid drafts. You should also mark the location of future logs; this is done on the walls, where the middle of the log will be. When marking, you should take into account the centimeter gaps of the sheets from the walls so that the seams clearly fall in the middle of the joist.

The easiest way to mark is this: first, mark the logs on which the sheet joints will be, and only then distribute the remaining logs between the seams so that the distance between them does not exceed 30-40 cm.

I would like to note: usually all the lags are made parallel; at seams perpendicular to the lags, additional lags are not required for connecting sheets; more on this later. Of course, the logs can be set as you like, they can be longitudinal or transverse, the point is that there is no need to make extra crosshairs.

Installation of logs

From my own experience, I was convinced that it is more convenient to drill holes for bolts and countersunk nuts in place. If you make holes with countersunk holes in advance, you eliminate the possibility of moving the fastener; this may be necessary when the fastener hits a weak spot in the concrete, a covered void, etc.

This is my personal opinion; it is certainly possible to drill holes in the joists in advance. I will describe my method, and it’s up to you to decide which is more convenient and practical. This method is not relevant with ready-made fasteners purchased in online stores - there you need to tighten the lowest nut to fix the anchor.

The joist is laid in the marked place, a hammer drill is used, and a hole is drilled directly through the joist in the concrete base. Having drilled, the anchor is immediately inserted without washers and nuts. This will prevent the jog from moving during further drilling. I would like to note that in panel and monolithic houses, in most cases, the thickness of the ceiling is no more than 10 centimeters, so drilling more than 5 cm is highly undesirable, be careful! Having drilled, you need to clean the hole with the same hammer drill in drilling mode so that all the crumbs come out.

In this way, all the joists are drilled and the bolts are tightened in the anchors. The fasteners are securely fixed in the concrete, but the logs have free movement up and down.

After tightening the anchors, the bolt heads are cut off and the joists are pulled off.

Screw one nut onto each protruding stud and put one washer on. It is not easy to screw a nut onto a sawn bolt, so it is useful to have a small file on hand; trimming the sawn edges will make it easier to screw on the nut. Next, holes for the upper nuts are drilled into the joists, they are put back into place, the position of the joists is adjusted using the lower nuts, and they are tightened from above with a second nut and washer.

It is most convenient to adjust the lag using a laser level. A tubular wrench is convenient for tightening the upper nuts, and an open-end wrench for adjusting the lower nuts.

After all the adjustments, the studs sticking out above the joist are cut off. The installation of the logs is complete. If insulation was planned, the insulation is laid and foamed. Excess foam is cut off and the floor is ready for laying.

Flooring

The most important thing in flooring is to align the sheets so that the seams fall in the middle of the joists. It may happen that the seams will be significantly displaced, if the sheet does not fit onto the joist by at least a centimeter, you will have to change the layout of the sheets or make additional seams; twisting the joist is much more problematic. The seams running across the logs are pulled together from below with a bar or the same sheet material.

It is important to leave a 5-15 mm gap from the walls, the canvas will have room to expand if something happens, this will in some cases avoid the floor creaking.

When laying plywood, an unpleasant phenomenon may occur: the screws may not fit into the canvas and burst, the result is not a tight fit and a squeak may appear in this place.

In the place of the broken screw, you need to tighten a new one, stepping back a few centimeters. If the screws break too often, there are two options: take thicker screws instead of 3mm, for example 6mm, or before tightening, make a countersink with a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the head.

That's all, I hope I gave comprehensive information.

Return to the section “Apartment renovation”

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Wooden floors are the warmest, most environmentally friendly and beautiful of all types of floors because:

• wood has a fibrous structure, it has, at the same time, strength and flexibility, as well as relatively low thermal conductivity;
• wood is a material that “breathes”, that is, it absorbs moisture from the environment and releases it back, optimizing the humidity in the room;
• has a unique texture that “plays” with skillful processing: due to the difference in density, color and pattern.

There are certain design features of laying a plank floor.

This is the laying of logs - wooden beams - on a supporting structure with a certain step. To understand how to make a floor on joists and choose the most suitable option for specific conditions, you need to find out what types of wooden floor structures there are.

In private housing construction, various materials for load-bearing and enclosing structures are used; they are built on different types of soil, which determines the choice of foundation.

Once the house is erected, the question of how to install the logs so that the floor is strong and stable is decided. This will depend on the size of the room, because even for a room with an area of ​​1x1 m, support for the logs is needed in the middle. Therefore, you need to decide whether to choose support pillars or the foundation of intermediate walls as the base for the logs.

Installation of floors on joists along beams and support posts

As a support for the logs, a frame of beams is installed along the inner perimeter of the foundation.

For support between the beams, intermediate pillars are installed every 500-600 mm. Technologically it looks like this:

• A hole is dug, it will also serve as formwork: 400x400 mm and 400 mm in depth.
• First, sand is compacted in it - in a layer of 10 cm, then crushed stone - 10 cm.
• Then the solution is poured into a 20 cm layer.
• When the foundation is ready, a column of ceramic bricks is laid on it to the level of the joists.
• Waterproofing is laid on top, under the joists, on the pole.

The logs are laid, supported by bars around the perimeter and pillars between them, so that their ends do not reach the basement wall or grillage by 2-3 cm (this is necessary to expand the tree).

The joists must overlap the support by at least 10 cm.

The grillage is the upper part of the foundation of the house. It can be “low” - somewhat recessed relative to the “zero mark” - ground level. Or “high” - raised above the ground. If the foundation is piled, a grillage is made to connect individual columns - piles into a single structure and in order to serve as a foundation for the intermediate walls of the house.

The section of the log, depending on the load exerted on the floor, will be 10x20 or 15x20 cm.

Their length, preferably, should be enough from one wall to the other of the room.

The pitch between the logs will depend on the width of the insulation used - this will make the installation process more convenient (the optimal size is 1 m).

There is an opinion that before fastening the logs should lie in the room for several days and only then can they be fixed.

Before making the floor on joists, communications can be laid between them.

It is necessary that the insulation is 5-7 cm below the joist level.

This is necessary so that there is a gap for ventilation between the insulation and the finished floor layer. It is better to calculate the dimensions of the insulation and the log immediately in order to follow the technology when laying (the insulation layer can be 10-15 cm).

If, however, the height of the logs is not enough for a ventilation device, counter battens can be placed on them, which should have the same width as the logs.

Floor arrangement algorithm

1. First, the beams, then the logs, are attached to the base with perforated (anchor) corners and laid on them.

   Self-tapping screws 3-4 cm long are used for fastening.

2. Along the logs, to their lower edge, cranial bars with a cross section of 4x4 cm are attached. They serve as support for boards or plywood (subfloor), on which the insulation will be laid.
3. Before laying the insulation, the boards and joists must be covered with a layer of high-quality waterproofing, extending onto the walls, to a level above the finished floor, so that moisture from the underground space does not get into the insulation. The waterproofing is attached to the wood with a stapler.
4. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the laid insulation and joists, which should also extend to the level of the baseboards.

   It is pressed tightly against the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the sides of the logs.

5. The finished floor is laid on the joists. It can be made of planks and will be laid across the joists. If you intend to lay parquet, laminate or other sectional flooring, you should lay a substrate under it: particle boards, OSB or cement-bonded particle boards (CSB), which have sound and heat insulation properties.

Between the ends of the finished floor and the wall you need to leave a gap of 1-2 cm, left for the thermal expansion of the wood, which will then be covered with a plinth.

To ventilate the underground space with an uninsulated base, holes are left in it for ventilation, which...

b. covered with protective nets to prevent rodents. In summer, the goal of ventilation and drying is achieved, but in frosty conditions the underground becomes very cold, cooling the floor too. Therefore, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter.

A more suitable option is when the base is insulated from the inside or outside, and the ventilation is internal - the ducts are led into the room and hidden behind the baseboards.

Installation of floors on joists along intermediate walls

It differs from installation on poles in the design of the foundation.

A strip foundation is placed under each wall and thus divides the entire basement space into separate rooms.

All installation steps are repeated, only the logs will rest on the foundations of the intermediate walls or beams attached to them.

Since air flow is needed for underground ventilation, it is difficult to organize it in intermediate rooms.

To allow free passage of air, through holes are made in the walls, and ventilation ducts are installed in the structure of the enclosing walls, taking air from the room.

Installation of floors on joists on a floor slab

It is clear that in this case there is no need to ventilate the floor from below, just as there is no need to lay the subfloor as a substrate for the insulation.

DIY adjustable floors

But it is still necessary to arrange soundproofing and, at the same time, insulation. The better this is done, the warmer the floor will be and the less voices and the sound of a hammer drill coming from the lower floor will be heard.

The logs are laid parallel to the short side of the room. Their size depends on the layer of insulation that is supposed to be laid under the floor.

If the floor slabs are not completely level, the horizontality of the joists can be achieved by using a level and placing pieces of plywood under the joists.

The cavities between the joists are filled with insulation or filled, for example, with expanded clay.

A sheet of polyethylene or penofol-type insulation is placed on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat inward and is stapled to the sides of the logs. The remaining space of 1.5-2 cm will serve to ventilate the space underneath.

Then the finished floor is laid along the joists, with the obligatory arrangement of gaps between the covering and the wall.

01/18/2014 at 20:01

Attaching joists to the floor: pros and cons
Log laying technology
Fastening the joists with self-tapping screws
Using Anchors
Fastening joists with corners
Attaching adjustable joists

Quite often in residential premises the floor is built on joists, which allows the use of any type of insulation and sound insulation, as well as various materials for the subfloor.

This way you can make any surface flat and lay the necessary communications under the floor. Installation of this floor is quite simple, and from an economic point of view it is not very expensive.

The result is a structure with a small load on the base. And of course, when installing such a floor, the question arises: is it necessary to attach the logs to the floor and, if this is necessary, then how to attach the logs to the concrete floor.

In this article we will give answers to these questions.

Attaching joists to the floor: pros and cons

According to opponents of fastening, these actions can destroy the screed, and where the beams and the base are connected, sound insulation is broken and sound bridges are formed, which the neighbors below will not be happy about.

And those who believe that fixation is necessary share their experience: all the work done to repair the floor was in vain due to deformation of the joists.

Is everything really as they say? Regarding the destruction of the screed, if the screed is quite strong, then you will not be able to break it with a drill when drilling a hole.

And floor repairs can only be done if there is a solid foundation. If the old screed begins to collapse, then it must be removed.

The problem of violation of sound insulation remains controversial.

Rigid structures can actually transmit sound. However, insulating material is placed in the space between the joists, which has soundproofing characteristics. A gasket with shock-absorbing properties is placed under the joists, which also prevents the spread of sound.

The sound bridge, which is formed at the attachment point, transmits vibrations to concrete, which is a fairly dense material and, unlike wood, does not conduct sound well.

Consequently, neighbors below will not notice changes in noise levels before and after repairs.

The floor on the joists is constructed from beams, fasteners, and rough flooring. When all components are displaced relative to each other, a creak occurs, which is unlikely to please the neighbors. You can prevent the appearance of unpleasant sound by firmly securing the joists to the floor.

Another argument in favor of fastening is the fixation of the lag. When it comes to the degree of drying of the wood, buyers are forced to trust the seller’s words, since it is impossible to find out by simple inspection.

Over time, poorly dried beams may warp, eventually the coating will move, and the entire complex structure of the floor will be warped.

For those who are wary of attaching logs to a concrete base, you can organize a floating floor. In this case, the flooring is not attached to the supporting structures. This will provide excellent sound insulation, but it is necessary to use well-dried joists.

They won't warp over time.

The beams are fastened to each other in such a way as to form a lattice. This design will make the floating floor more stable. Insulation is laid in the gap between the beams, and a subfloor is built on top.

As a result, the entire structure is pressed to the floor under its own weight. Over time, such a floor will not change its shape and will serve for a long time.

In most cases, the installation of logs on a concrete base is carried out with their fastening to the floor, since there are many more arguments in favor of this than the possible disadvantages.

Log laying technology

Let's look at how to install joists on a concrete floor step by step:

1. High-quality materials are the key to successful renovation.

   You can use timber made from softwood. Its humidity should not exceed 18%. The purchased beams must be allowed to acclimatize for several days in the room where the floor is planned to be made. Logs that begin to bend should be set aside and not used in the floor installation.

   The wooden components of the future structure should be treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic, which will prevent the appearance of mold and insects.

2. The foundation is being prepared, that is, the surface is cleared of debris, all cracks are rubbed, and protrusions are knocked down.
3. The tree should be protected from moisture, that is, it is necessary to perform waterproofing.

   For this purpose, materials are used in the form of rolls, hydrophobic mastics, impregnating compounds, and dense film.

4. You should prepare the necessary tools for the job, fasteners and substrates for raising logs. The substrates must be rigid, which will not sag over time, so that voids do not form at the support points. You can take thin planks, pieces of plywood, or purchase special plastic backings.
5. The logs should be laid across the sun's rays falling from the window.

   Wood can become deformed due to temperature changes, but when laid in this way, all logs will be heated evenly. In rooms such as hallways, logs must be laid across the movement. This will give the floor greater strength.

6. Depending on the thickness of the rough flooring, the distance between the beams is selected.

   The greater the thickness and the higher the strength, the farther apart the logs are laid. As a rule, the distance is approximately 40-50 cm.

   The logs closest to the wall should be located 2-3 cm from it, and others - depending on the size of the room.

7. After the sheathing is completely assembled, it should be brought into the horizontal plane. It is best to have a level base. There are craftsmen who even make a thin cement screed for this, provided that the difference in floor level allows this.

   There is no need to screed, since the use of lags allows you to level even a very uneven floor. If the beam is below the required level, then substrates are placed under it.

8. To provide shock absorption and additional waterproofing to wood it is necessary to lay the logs on linoleum, roofing felt, polyethylene foam or something else.

   It is important that the material used is not soft. Otherwise, after some time it will sag due to the pressure acting on it, as a result a gap will form, which will ultimately lead to the appearance of unpleasant sounds, such as creaking.

After completing the construction of the structure from the logs, all that remains is to fasten them to the floor.

There are the following ways to attach joists to a concrete floor:

• using dowels and screws;
• fastening with anchors;
• use of galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

The choice of fastening method depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.

Fastening the joists with self-tapping screws

Such fasteners for joists as self-tapping screws are the simplest and most inexpensive option, but at the same time guaranteeing an excellent result.

It is necessary to drill symmetrical holes in the joists and base. Then dowels are inserted into them and screws are screwed in.

The distance between the holes can vary between 40-80 cm depending on the case.

The length of the screw should be equal to the thickness of the timber plus 5-6 cm.

You can use self-tapping screws with threads that do not reach the head. They allow the joists to be better pressed to the floor.

Using Anchors

To obtain reliable and long-term fastening, you can use anchors for floor joists. In addition to holding the beam in one place, they also attract it to the surface, giving the entire system additional rigidity.

In essence, the anchor is a dowel, but much stronger.

Its advantage is its high pull-out resistance, so it is used when installing very heavy structures that create a large load on the fasteners. The probability of the floor on the joists completely tearing away from the concrete base is approaching zero, so fastening can also be done with self-tapping screws. However, anchors are quite often used for these purposes.

So, how to secure joists to a concrete floor using anchors? This method is carried out similarly to fastening with self-tapping screws.

Identical holes are made in the beams and concrete floor. To prevent the bolt head from sticking out, it must be hidden without damaging the wood; for this, the logs should be countersunk beforehand.

Typically, 3-4 anchors are required to secure one joist within a room.

The locking element of the anchor should be inserted into the hole in the floor, then a bolt should be screwed into it through the beam.

Anchor bolts are produced in various lengths: 45-200 mm. When choosing the length, you should take into account the thickness of the log plus 6 cm for penetration into the base. It is recommended to purchase anchors with a diameter of 10 mm.

Fastening joists with corners

Another fastener is used for the floor joists - a galvanized metal corner.

One side of the corner is attached to the beam using self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw should enter the wood 3-4 cm and preferably at an angle, this will increase the strength of the connection.

The other side of the corner should rest against the floor.

It should be fixed using the methods described above, that is, using dowels with self-tapping screws or anchors. Instead of corners, you can take a U-shaped profile.

Adjustable floors: analysis of the technology of installing logs on supports with your own hands

Attaching adjustable joists

Installation of an adjustable system is simpler and will make it easier to obtain a perfectly flat surface. In this design, instead of anchors, plastic racks are used, which are screwed into wood and fixed to the base using dowels (for more details: “How to make adjustable floors on joists with your own hands”). By rotating special bolts you can set the required height. After the joists are adjusted, the protruding part of the bolts must be cut off.

Conclusion

In a wooden house, it is not recommended to fix the joists to the floor. And if a concrete screed is used as a base in the room, then in this case is it necessary to attach the logs to the concrete floor or not. In such a situation, fastening will not be superfluous. Everything is done quite simply, the main thing is to use high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules.

Then the design will be reliable and will serve for a long time.

Are you planning to make renovations in your house, apartment, cottage, warehouse or office space yourself? Then you will need our tips, tricks and step-by-step instructions for assembling an adjustable floor.

There are several types of “adjustable flooring” depending on the purpose of the room, the quality of the base and the design height of the floor. To solve the problems of raising the floor level to the required height and placing various communications under it, a floor structure on adjustable DNT joists is used, which provides not only the required levelness of the floor for laying any types of coverings, including wooden floor coverings that require minimal differences in the base, such as parquet , parquet board or laminate (no more than 2 mm per 2 linear meters), but also allows you to make a floor frame if wooden beams are used as an interfloor floor.

This design raises the floor to a height of 5 to 20 cm or more, depending on the height of the polymer bolts and the cross-section of the logs, and also allows it to be fixed to a concrete, wooden or any other base.

To solve the problems of leveling the floor base without loss of height, an adjustable floor design using adjustable DNT slabs is used. Its use allows you to prepare a base for parquet, laminate or parquet boards with a difference of no more than 2 mm per 2 linear meters. At the same time, the floor will rise to a height of 2 to 5 cm, which does not exceed the thickness of a conventional screed.

All these designs of adjustable DNT floors allow you to install in the shortest possible time (there are no wet and dusty processes associated with concrete) a flat and reliable floor that has increased sound and heat insulation of the room, the cost of which is no more expensive than traditional types of leveling (concrete screed, semi-dry screed or Knauff floors), and with a floor height of more than 5 cm, it allows you to significantly save on preparing the base for the finishing coating.

Pros and cons of "adjustable floor"

The disadvantages of an adjustable floor may appear if the requirements for proper installation of the floor are not met, which also applies to other methods of leveling the subfloor.

If installed correctly and all material quality requirements are met, the “DNT adjustable floor” is a reliable and durable base for any finishing coating on which you can not only walk, but also drive a car.

If you do not follow the DNT adjustable floor assembly technology, entrusting it to “woe to the specialists”, or use a regular plastic dowel and nail to attach polymer adjustable bolts to a concrete base, the adjustable floor will look like this:

DNT adjustable floor installation technology

Features of adjustable floors

1. You can install an adjustable floor yourself without the help of a professional. To do this, it is enough to purchase the necessary materials and stock up on simple tools.
2. Installing the floor takes very little time: 1-2 days. For comparison, a concrete floor screed must dry for several weeks.
3. An adjustable floor allows you to hide communications in the technological space, which means you can save space and remove all visual defects under the base of the floor.
4. Using an adjustable floor, you can significantly increase the sound insulation of a room, which is why this type of flooring is often used in concert halls, studios and residential buildings.
5. The adjustable floor is quite light in weight. Therefore, you can install it in rooms with weak ceilings - in private houses or on loggias.
6. When installing an adjustable floor, virtually no dirty work is carried out. Accordingly, this coating option is ideal for rooms where it is important to maintain cleanliness.
7. The adjustable floor can withstand loads of up to 2.5 tons per square meter. This means that this coating can be used for almost any type of premises (residential buildings, offices, shops, warehouses).

Using adjustable floors

Despite all the advantages of adjustable floors, many owners still think about the advisability of installing this type of covering. So, in what cases is it best to use an adjustable floor?

1. If the floor surface is difficult or almost impossible to level (there are strong differences or unevenness).
2. If it is impossible to use heavy materials to level the floor according to technical specifications.
3. If you need to make a floor with different height levels.
4. If there is a need to hide communications under the floor.
5. If you want to create additional insulation from noise or cold.

Before we move on to a detailed description of the installation process of an adjustable floor, let's understand its key features. Today there are two types of adjustable floors on the market: floors on joists and adjustable floors on slabs. The main difference between these types of floors is the minimum lift height.

When installing a floor on joists, the rise is 5-20 centimeters or more. For an adjustable floor on slabs, the minimum lift height can be from 3 centimeters.

The process of installing adjustable floors on joists or on slabs is almost identical, but we will still describe the installation of each type in detail so that you can do it yourself at home.

Technology for installing adjustable floors on joists

Logs are planed timber. Its dimensions, as a rule, do not exceed 50x50 centimeters. So, before we begin installing the floor on the joists, we will decide on the materials and tools that we will need.

Video - Adjustable joists on homemade racks

Tools

To install the floor yourself, you will need: logs, wear-resistant bolts, a drill, a laser or water level, a hammer, and dowel-nails.

Now we will look at step-by-step steps that will help you quickly and efficiently install an adjustable floor on joists.

Preparatory stage of work

Video - Adjustable joists preparatory process

Installation phase

1. We lay the wooden joists evenly on the base of the floor. The distance between the joists depends on the choice of floor covering. If you plan to cover the floor with linoleum or lay tiles, the distance between the joists should be small. Experts recommend taking a step between lags of no more than 30 centimeters. It is advisable to leave a distance from the joist to the wall of at least 1 centimeter. This will create the necessary ventilation.
2. After laying out the joists, we move on to rigidly attaching the bolts to the base. To do this, take a rigid drill and drill a hole in the concrete through the bolt. The depth of the hole should be about 40 millimeters. Next, we insert a dowel-nail into the prepared hole.
3. We hammer in the dowel-nail with a hammer, securing the polymer bolt to the base of the floor. Try to drive the nails as firmly as possible so that the entire floor structure does not move in the future. Also, good fastening will avoid squeaks and noise when using the floor.

Alignment

After the wooden logs are installed around the entire perimeter of the room and tightly bolted, we proceed to leveling. To do this, we need a water (or laser) level and a special tool (key) for adjusting the height.

1. We carefully measure the level data. The height difference can be no more than 1-2 millimeters.
2. Using a special wrench, raise or lower the bolts, focusing on the level. We try to achieve perfect alignment, since the quality of installation of the final floor covering depends on this.

The final stage of work

1. After leveling the joists, firmly secure the nails to the floor using a hammer.
2. We cut off the unnecessary remains of the post bolts using a knife or any other cutting device.
3. If necessary, we lay materials between the joists for soundproofing or thermal insulation of the room.
4. We place the flooring on the upper base of the joists. The choice of decking materials depends on what type of flooring you plan to use. Most often, plywood is used as flooring. It is suitable for further installation of laminite or linoleum. GVL or DSP is also used as flooring.
5. After installing the flooring, we lay tiles, linoleum, laminate, parquet or any other covering on the adjustable floor.

The second type of flooring is done on slabs. It is chosen if the height of the floor should not exceed 3 centimeters. It is difficult to hide communications in such a space between the base of the floor and the covering, but it is quite possible to place cables from the telephone or the Internet here.

The process of installing this type of floor is somewhat reminiscent of installing an adjustable floor on joists.

Materials and tools

Before installing an adjustable floor on slabs, you need to prepare the following tools and materials: sheets of plywood or other material, bushings, stand-up bolts, drill, self-tapping screws, hammer, water or laser level.

Type of plywood	Description
Plywood FC	moisture-resistant appearance; urea resin is used for gluing veneer sheets. This plywood is intended for indoor use.
FKM plywood	has increased water resistance and is made on the basis of melamine resins. This type of plywood is unique, since environmentally friendly melamine resins are used for its production. Due to its environmental characteristics, plywood is used in furniture production and for interior finishing work.
Plywood FSF	Veneer sheets are glued together using phenolic resin. This type of plywood also has increased water resistance. It is not recommended for interior decoration, as phenolic resins are harmful to health. Typically used for exterior finishing work
Laminated plywood	It is based on FSF plywood, which is covered on both sides with a special film. Laminated plywood is used for the manufacture of formwork. This type can be used repeatedly
Bakelized plywood	Bakelite resin is used to glue veneer sheets together. This type of plywood is used in aggressive climates, sea water, aggressive environments, and sometimes for monolithic work.
Marine plywood	similar to bakelized, but less durable. Made from foreign wood species
Plywood Flexible	foreign version. A distinctive feature is the ability to bend well in the transverse and longitudinal directions

Video - Which plywood is better

Preparatory stage of work

1. Just like when installing an adjustable floor on joists, installing a floor on slabs requires certain preparation of the working surface of the floor. Be sure to remove excess debris and correctly distribute communications that you plan to hide under the floor. Remember that the maximum lift height will be about 3 centimeters.
2. Carefully place the sheets around the perimeter of the room. The distance between the sheets should be 2-3 centimeters on each side of the sheet.
3. Mark the points for drilling holes. With a sheet size of 1.5 by 1.5 meters, 9 holes will be enough. One hole should be located in the middle (center of the sheet), four holes can be at the corners of the sheet and four more should be located in the central part of each side of the sheet. This arrangement of holes will ensure reliable fastening of the sheet.

First and second layers of plywood flooring

Final stage

1. If necessary, we place thermal insulation or sound insulation of the floor on top of the sheets.
2. After installing the sheets, we also lay out laminite, tiles, parquet, linoleum or any other selected floor covering.

Secrets to successfully installing an adjustable floor

After completing installation work, be sure to thoroughly clean the floor surface before installing the flooring. Excess debris, sawdust, and pieces of plastic can create squeaking and noise after laying the top layer of the floor.

Carefully hammer and tighten all floor fastenings. The reliability of the entire structure depends on this.

If you are making a high floor, it is advisable to place soundproofing material between the joists. This will avoid unnecessary noise when using the floor.
Don't skimp on the quality of materials. It is more profitable to immediately choose more expensive materials for installing the floor, instead of completely redoing the entire job after a short time.

If, after installing the floor, you need to move communications, you can simply remove several strips of the adjustable floor in the right place. After completing the necessary work, you can easily put the floor back in its original place.

We hope that our tips, as well as step-by-step instructions, will help you install an adjustable floor in your home, cottage or office yourself, quickly and without any difficulty.

Video - Adjustable floors

Knows that there are several most common methods for leveling the floor level in an apartment. And one of them is to use adjustable floors. The use of concrete screed is gradually losing popularity. This work requires considerable effort and also involves dampness and dirt. Moreover, installing adjustable floors will take much less time.

One worker per day is able to independently lay floors on an area of ​​up to 20 square meters. m. Next we will talk in more detail about the advantages, disadvantages and features of assembling adjustable floors.

Design Features

To understand what adjustable floors are, you need to familiarize yourself with their operating principle. The studs rotate around their axis, which allows you to adjust the floor level horizontally. The same principle applies to floors on slabs, which also move due to rotation. This allows you to set the floor as accurately as possible. You can level the horizontal floor almost perfectly.

Such structures will not sag under weight or “play” over time. You can install them on any available surface. Each floor can be covered with several layers of covering (plywood).

Such floors will be an excellent solution for gyms, clubs, office spaces and so on. By strengthening the load-bearing studs, the load indicator (up to 2 tons per 1 sq. m) can be increased. The service life of adjustable floors is up to 15 years.

Features of use

Adjustable floors are most often used:

• At stations and server premises;
• for final finishing in the shortest possible time;
• In houses of new construction;
• In houses of old buildings for major repairs or reconstruction;
• To raise the floor level to a sufficient level (especially when additional pressure on the main floor is undesirable);
• When installing multi-level floors;
• For carrying out all kinds of communications under the base of the floor.

If you need to level or raise your floors to a significant level, then using adjustable floors is an excellent solution. After all, it will take you a month to lay a concrete screed, while you can finish adjustable floors in one or two days.

Also, the use of such systems is useful in houses where a distance of up to 15 cm was specially left under the floor for laying communications or insulation. Not all structures will be able to withstand the load of such a layer of concrete. But using adjustable floors will help you raise the level of coverage to 20 cm.

You can also successfully, for example, move plumbing fixtures (toilet or bathtub) and hide bulky communications not under a thick layer of mortar, but under the floor, where they will remain accessible at any time.

The use of such systems for country houses or cottages is especially popular. This gives you the opportunity to hide all communications in one place, where they will be reliably protected from exposure and accessible when needed.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any similar systems, there are also advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

• One worker can install an adjustable floor within one working day;
• The adjustable floor system is lightweight in itself, so it will not be able to put additional pressure on the main floor;
• International testing confirms the quality, strength and durability of such systems;
• Using adjustable floors, you can further isolate the room from outside sound;
• You are given the opportunity to use the floor to hide all communications, which is a plus not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also safely collects them in one place;
• Maximum accuracy when setting the horizontal floor level;
• Various levels that can be used in parallel (up to 20 cm);
• The materials used for manufacturing are tested for purity;
• It becomes possible to quickly correct uneven floors, even if there is a discrepancy of 10–15 cm;

This system is durable

Flaws:

• Adjustable over time. To avoid this, even at the installation stage it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt after drilling holes and driving dowels. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. Also thoroughly clean the first floor surface before laying the second layer. Make sure all dowels and nails are driven in completely. This will prevent the structure from becoming loose. It is also necessary to take into account that wood is a natural material that breathes and is capable of deforming under the influence of moisture or gravity. Over time, creaks will appear one way or another;
• If you raise the floor level over a long distance, additional sounds will be heard when walking on it. For example, the sound from women's heels will resemble the beat of a drum. Installing additional sound insulation will help correct the situation.

All your work depends on the quality of the materials used. Pay special attention to their choice. High-quality timber and plywood will save you from the need to dismantle the floor in the future.

For maximum accuracy when leveling the floor, use a laser level.

Take care to ensure proper ventilation under the floor covering.

Types of adjustable floors

Depending on the type of construction, adjustable floors are divided into two groups:

• slabs;
• lags.

With the help of adjustable plates, you can raise the floor by a distance of no more than 3 cm. This is not much, but enough to carry out the necessary communications: telephone, Internet, and so on. You can also install thermal insulation and sound insulation materials under these floors.

Such structures are sheets of thick plywood (several layers of it can be used). Special bushings are inserted into it. The peculiarity of these bushings is that they already have a special internal thread. An anchor for the adjustable floor is threaded into it, which will serve as a level regulator. Then the entire structure is installed on the base and fixed with dowels.

As already mentioned, the difference between such a system is that the floor level is adjusted directly through the holes in the slab (made of plywood or any other suitable material).

To assemble a floor based on adjustable slabs, just follow our tips:

• Drill holes in the plywood sheet;
• Then insert bushings into them, which are pre-threaded on the inside;
• Insert special bolts into the bushings, which will adjust the level of the slab;
• Fix the bolts to the base;
• Turn the bolts until you achieve a perfectly flat floor plane;
• After this, the remnants of the bolts that peek above the surface of the slabs must be cut off with a grinder;
• The final stage of assembly will be laying the next layer of plywood, which will hide the marks of the bolts.

Please note that when laying a new layer of flooring, its seams should not coincide with the seams of the previous one, since this way the structure will not be strong.

Adjustable floor joists are the best alternative today. When using this design, the floor will be raised by at least 5 cm. This distance can be successfully used to isolate the room from sound or odors, as well as to lay all the main communications of the apartment or house.

Such designs are distinguished by their simplicity and speed of assembly, as well as reliability and durability. The log is equipped with special sockets for installing bolts. It is fixed to a special base using dowels. To change the floor level, just rotate the bolt in the desired direction. After the floor plane is completely leveled, a coating is applied to them.

Such floors are often used in newly built luxury buildings, in which all main communications are laid under the floor.

The main advantage of such systems is their strong fixation to a wooden or concrete base. Other materials can also serve as a base. For example, threaded anchors can be installed on concrete slabs that are hollow inside, wooden beams using self-tapping screws, as well as on brick surfaces with a concrete screed using special fasteners or to a wooden floor.

To correctly assemble such a structure, read our instructions:

• Special racks (bolts) are installed in the sockets in the joists;
• Now lay out the logs around the perimeter of the room and inside it. Here it is necessary to take into account the required sagging strength of the structure, which depends on the type of floor covering used. For example, the distance between the logs should be about half a meter. If you use floor tiles, then maintain a distance of no more than 30 cm. To ensure the necessary air circulation, step back one centimeter from the walls;
• Then, through the holes provided in the joists, drill holes in the floor for installing bolts. Their depth should not exceed 4 cm;
• Next, you have to set the floor covering to the required level. Please note that the difference between the sides should not exceed 1 mm. To adjust, use a special wrench that turns the bolts;
• After laying out the floor, hammer in the protruding parts of the dowels or cut them off with a grinder or chisel.

Next, the flooring is installed. To start, use two layers of waterproof plywood. Attach the first layer using self-tapping screws directly to the joists. The next layer of plywood should be installed with a slight deviation from the first so that the joints do not coincide. If using floor tiles, it is better to use waterproof plasterboard as the second layer.

To hide unevenness and gaps between the flooring and the walls, use skirting boards. Experts in some cases recommend installing them after all finishing work.

As you can see, an adjustable floor on studs or on slabs is a pretty good alternative to a conventional concrete screed. Moreover, to install such a structure you do not need to have special construction skills. You just need to be patient and do everything according to the instructions. If you have ever encountered the problem of installing such systems, share your comments under this article.

Quite often, professionals and private developers are faced with the problem of leveling the floor. If the rough surface has significant differences, then in the future the geometry of the room will be disrupted, so it is imperative to take care of creating a high-quality floor. For this purpose, different technologies are used today. However, one of the methods is one that involves installing adjustable supports for the joists.

Why choose adjustable feet

Floors with adjustable joists have many advantages over other technologies, among them the following should be highlighted:

• light weight;
• the possibility of carrying out floor insulation work;
• speed of work;
• no need for the master to have special skills;
• the possibility of forming a multi-level floor;
• Possibility of laying flooring without installing underlay.

The logs are installed on the rough surface. The distance between them should be determined by the characteristics of the future floor. Through each anchor it is necessary to drill holes in the concrete or wooden beam, and at the next stage a self-tapping screw or dowel-nail is installed there. Now you can perform alignment using a level. The protruding parts of the bolts are cut off, and then you can begin laying the rough mass.

DIY adjusting anchor

If you decide to install metal adjustable supports for the logs, then you can make the anchor yourself. All elements should be purchased at a building materials store. For the control device you should prepare:

• hairpins;
• drive-in anchor;
• nut;
• metal plate;
• washers.

The plate is fixed to the stud with a bolt and nut. The latter will be used to make adjustments in the future. Another nut and bolt are needed to secure the beam from above. In order to install the nut, a groove should be made in the joist so that the element does not interfere when the flooring is laid.

Adjustable support with studs and corners

If you do not want to purchase ready-made devices, then you can install floors with studs. The price of the structure will be lower, and the characteristics of the floor will not be inferior to that assembled using ready-made structures. If you use corners in your work, they must be firmly attached to the base. This method is suitable for cases where the use of hairpins is not possible. The lags are fastened using this technology in the case where the subfloor has a weak base. The size of the corner will depend on what level you want to raise the surface to.

If you install adjustable supports under the joists, it is important to mark the points at which holes will be drilled in the beam for the plastic bushings. To drill the first hole, you should retreat 10 cm from the edge. The distance that remains minus from both ends must be divided into equal segments. It is necessary to leave a distance between the side plane of the first joist, the ends and the walls.

The pitch between the lags should be the same. Row logs are positioned so that the edge of each sheet of plywood rests on the timber. A centimeter gap should be left between the plates. When installing adjustable supports for the logs, holes for the supports should be formed at the designated points on the beam, which are then screwed in with screws. Only the outer bolts are installed flush with the plane; it is with the help of them that the adjustment will be carried out.

Conclusion

As soon as the log with bushings is in place, it is necessary to mark points through the inner cavity of the bushings for installing dowel-nails. Afterwards, the joist is removed, and holes are drilled in the concrete at the designated points. It is necessary to go deeper by 5 cm. The log returns to its place, and fasteners are inserted into the bolts.

The technology of adjustable floors appeared on the market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity among builders and good reviews from users. Why? The answer is simple - it has a lot of advantages. Among them are the following:

• high speed of floor installation. One person can design up to 20 sq.m. in a day;
• achieving the desired floor height without additional costs for materials;
• the ability to create a multi-level structure;
• almost perfect alignment accuracy. Permissible deviation 1 mm. by 1 l.m. gender;
• reducing the load on the supporting structure. At the same time, the permissible load on the logs is up to three tons. This significantly exceeds the possible load not only in residential but also in industrial premises;
• eliminating the need to carry out “wet” screed;
• good ventilation and soundproofing characteristics of the floor;
• opportunity to equip warm floor under plywood;
• environmentally friendly, time-tested materials;
• the ability to hide the wiring of electrical networks, hide pipes and at the same time provide free access to them if necessary.

In fairness, we also note flaws:

• possibility of squeaking. In the event that construction debris gets into the fastening points. It must be removed with a vacuum cleaner even at the installation stage. It should be taken into account that wood is a “living” material; it deforms over time. So, be prepared;
• the ability to “sound” the floor. If the floor is raised too high, the emptiness underneath will accompany you with a booming echo with every step. This drawback can be easily eliminated by using thermal insulation materials.

However, as you can see, there are many more advantages to an adjustable floor and they are quite easy to obtain. The technology is so accessible that it is possible to build adjustable floor Can with your own hands and without professional training. And this one instructions, we hope this will help you.

Before you start work, you need to decide on the design of the floor, as well as prepare tools and materials. But first things first:

Design

• slab-adjustable floors. Provide a lifting height of up to 5 cm;
• floors adjustable by joists. Provide a lifting height of over 5 cm.

In practice, both are used. But the first ones gained the most popularity. However, despite the different permissible lifting heights, the technology for their construction does not differ significantly.

Tool

The minimum tools that you will need to work on the construction of an adjustable floor consists of:

• hammer drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• chisels;
• building level;
• roulette;
• consumables, such as drills, discs, jigsaw files, drills.

Material

The amount of material depends on the size of the floor. But, for understanding, we will give a calculation of the amount of materials for 5 square meters.

For slab adjustable floors you will need:

• plywood - 5 or 10 sq.m. Depends on the required number of layers of flooring;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For attaching layers of plywood to each other;
• threaded bushings - at least 20 pieces. Wooden logs will play the role;
• dowel-screw 6x60 - 35 pcs. For attaching joists to a concrete base.

To install floors on joists you will need: timber, section 45x45 - 14 m.p.;

• plywood or OSB for the floor - 5 sq.m. or 10 sq.m. - if double flooring is planned. When calculating plywood, you need to add 5% for waste. Then, round up the amount of material to whole sheets;
• dowel-screw 6x60 - 35 pcs;
• wear-resistant polymer bolt 100 or 150 mm - 20 pcs. To regulate surface height;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x45 - 150 pcs. For laying the first layer of plywood on the joists;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For laying the second layer of plywood on the joists;

Features of choosing timber

Dried timber made from pine wood can be used as lag.

Features of material selection

An important point is to choose the right material. Professionals recommend giving preference to plywood. This option can provide simultaneous floor insulation with plywood. To form one layer, the sheet thickness must be at least 18 mm. If there are two layers, it is permissible to use sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

It is permissible to use 3/4 grade plywood. But moisture resistance requirements must be met. Permissible humidity is no more than 12%. What is achieved by using FSF or FK plywood.

Installation technology

Let's consider two options

Option 1 - Floors adjustable by slabs

Such a floor is installed if the surface is characterized by slight deviations from the level. And the ceiling of the room is low. Those. there is a need to save every centimeter of height.

The installation process in this case is simple and consists of the following steps:

1. Cut the plywood sheets into the required pieces. Place them on the floor and label them. In order to know exactly where each sheet will be located in the future.

2. Holes of the required diameter are drilled in sheets of plywood. Bushings are inserted into them.

3. Sheets of the first level are laid on the floor surface

4. The sheets are fastened to the floor using dowels.

5. Using a key, the height of the floor is adjusted by tightening the threaded bushings.

6. It is necessary to use a building level.

7. All protruding parts (threaded bushings) must be cut off.

8. If a second layer of plywood is provided, it is laid on the first and secured with self-tapping screws.

When laying the second layer, it is important to follow the sequence of laying the sheets. And ensure that there is no construction waste between them. To do this, the surface must be vacuumed.

The seams of the previous layer should not coincide with the seams of the next one. Figuratively speaking, they should be arranged like bricks, overlapping each other.

9. Floor covering is laid.

Option 2 - Floors adjustable by joists

1. Drill holes in the joist beam. The distance between them should be within 300-450 mm. The higher the load planned on the floor, the more often the joists should be drilled.

2. The arrangement of the logs begins with the ends that are attached to the floor. Then the middle of the beam is attached. It is important not to fully tighten the bolts right away in order to be able to adjust them.

Please note that the control device can be made independently. For this you will need:

• metal plate;
• hairpin;
• drive-in anchor;
• two nuts and washers each;

3. Logs are set according to level.

4. The height of the floor is adjusted by tightening the bolts.

5. Protruding bolt heads are removed using a chisel.

6. Sheets of plywood are attached to the joists. The mounting method is similar to that described in the first option for arranging an adjustable floor.

Conclusion

This approach to flooring is becoming increasingly popular. This is due to the ease of installation, the relative cheapness of materials, and the ability to do everything quickly and without the involvement of expensive professionals.

2,000 rub.

750 rub.

RUB 1,150

RUB 1,250

2,000 rub.

RUB 2,200

RUB 1,800

6,000 rub.

260 rub.

RUB 1,140

RUB 1,500 RUB 1,900